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Goal: 5Ghz on fx8320

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I have a first release, I think if i sent you my chv-f you would cake walk my system, that being said.
my sabertooth does not have enough in the bios to fiddle and it takes some to get 100% out of the 8 core.
the ch-v-f-z board had to many things to fiddle and i fiddle myself into a corner, such as last night when i corrupted the bios and the operating system.
the ch-v-f is just so easy it almost does it all for me.
 
This one has the direct flash which i have used when things get wonky. I probably am going to grab one sometime. Maybe when the AM3+ is officially done I'll catch one in the fire sale.
 
I saw you had posted over in my 4.3Ghz flatline thread and again thank you. I do not think 5.0Ghz is realistic on anthing but the heftiest of water cooling. I d0n't think that external Koolance Exos-2 with 2 fan type radiator will have enough capacity to remove the HEAT at 5.0Ghz and do so for hours to edit your video.

Rgone, you're welcome. I'm sure you're probably right on hitting 5ghz. When I wrote this, I hadn't been able to find much good data on overclocking the fx8320 yet, so I didn't really know where to set my goal.

Now that I understand there is a hard voltage barrier at 4.8, so I think 4.8 will be a reasonable goal that my cooling should be able to handle (we'll see I guess).

Longevity, reliability, and overall performance of the overclock are all important factors to me, so I'm not set on getting to 5ghz. Maybe I'll try and get there to say I climbed that mountain but back it down to 4.8 for every day use.... we'll see how hard it feels I'm pushing it when I get everything together.

While on the subject, does anyone have any recommendations for RAM? I was considering these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008XW05Y8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_9?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2C3SMXXIDC93V

I can do more research myself, just figured it might be a simple thing for one of you to help me answer knowing the goals I have in mind.

Thanks to everyone for your help. I have been out away from my PC, so I will catch up reading your responses now lol
 
I've already got the 8320, so I'll just have to make due with what I have.

Strange how this all came about really, I started off knowing I needed a PC upgrade to do my work effectively.

I ended up building a beefier than bottom of the line PC, but no top end performer by any means. I then ended up getting a few things that I hadn't planned on getting originally like 2 SSD's for RAID0. Then I realized I had a mint never before used Koolance Exos-2 in my closet just collecting dust for 5 years. I figured it was dumb to keep holding on to it and not use it, so I got to searching for water blocks.

I was never too crazy about koolance water blocks, so I looked for an affordable alternate. I settled on the EK Supreme LTX nickel plated (since koolance blocks are nickel plated). The problem with koolance as a system is it has an aluminum radiator so you have to really watch corrosion. I did learn of the issues the EK nickel plated blocks had but confirmed the issue was fixed in 2011 and this is 2013 so I am pretty confident I wont have to deal with it. Also, I have a 2 year warranty through EK due to the issue so that's kindof cool.

So I'm sure you can see the direction this is headed already... I decided then I want to overclock. Of course, overclocking was the last thing on my mind when I bought my $50 bargain motherboard. I went ahead and poked around a little bit trying to get a decent clock out of it and there's just no way. The vcore is fluxating wildly and I don't want to risk hurting anything so I am at a modest clock of 4.2ghz right now. The motherboard was also SATA 2.0. Great for almost any spinning hard drive, but I was cutting my SSD disk speed in half by not having SATA 3.0. File operations are very important when dealing with as much HD footage as I have been dealing with, so I wanted as much speed as I could get out of my SSD's.

I then decided I would build my wife a PC for Christmas. She's a gamer, and she really needs an upgrade from her X2 3400 or whatever it is lol. It's pretty bad, can't run any modern game. Now, I can buy her a 6 core processor with the same clocks and give her this motherboard and buy myself a worthy motherboard so I can get a decent overclock and SATA speeds.

And that's my unnecessarily long story about why I already have the processor but am looking for the motherboard and ram lol.
 
bassnut, do you know if the CPU-370SA cools better than the EK Supreme LTX? Maybe I should have gone with a Koolance block, oh well
 
google "martins liqudelabs and read around there.
I had an 370sa, wonderful block but i think the ek is a smidge better.
 
thanks for the heads up on the liquidlabs site, very informative.

I've looked for more options on RAM and came up with a few ways to go. I have a question, would you recommend I get DDR3 1866 with CL10, or DDR3 2400 with CL11?

I'll be honest, a part of me thinks it might be the exact same stuff with different SPD timings. Wondered if you guys had any input on that. Thanks!
 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231554
G.SKILL Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2133 (PC3 17000) Desktop Memory Model F3-2133C9D-8GAB

I bought two kits of this stuff back when it was less than $70.00. I tested both and sent the slightly better kit to C_D as I owed him something. What I have found is that the faster the cpu Mhz and the faster the ram...the more you have to push the HT Freq and the CPU_NB or the system may not be stable. IF one has a board or cpu that does not work well with those two frequencies elevated, then I could absolutely see no reason for DDR3-2400 ram which does not seem to add much anyway.

I run my ram around DDR3-2000ish with the tightest timings I can get and loosening to get more speed seems counter productive in most benches. Of course this is computing so YMMV. Hehehe.

By the way that stuff I linked can run the same specs as my G Skill Ares DDR3-1866 ram and at the same 1.5Vcore. G Skill even rates it at slower speeds at 1.5V and then the DDR3-2133 speed is rated at 1.65V. That linked ram is a joy to mess with.
RGone...
 
bassnut, do you know if the CPU-370SA cools better than the EK Supreme LTX? Maybe I should have gone with a Koolance block, oh well

I'm using the newer Koolance version 380A and I have no complaints. It even looks beefy compared to the EKs Here's a link to a pick if you'd like to see it on a Sabertooth just ignore the foam.
 
RGone, looks like the 8GB modules just don't have the same tight timings the 4GB modules do. in all my searches high and low I couldn't find anything too much better.

I think I may have reduced it down to these guys:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231675

what do you think? I probably am going to get 32GB of ram so i can have the best possible experience editing HD videos/graphics. even if I only get 16GB of ram I certainly want it to be 8gb modules so that my slots wont be full later down the road if i decide to go 32GB.

edit: i was hoping to run those below the prescribed DDR3 2400 rating to get tighter timings maybe even put active cooling on the ram and pump some more volts through. what do you think?

I'm using the newer Koolance version 380A and I have no complaints. It even looks beefy compared to the EKs Here's a link to a pick if you'd like to see it on a Sabertooth just ignore the foam.

thanks for the pic man. is there a peltier hiding under that block (judging by the foam)? if so, how's it working out for you? was considering a low watt peltier if my WC can keep up. i understand that you can get more OC with less volts at lower temps, so even if it doesn't equate to more heat watt dissipation with the peltier, the cooler temps might enable me to pull off an overclock without raising the vcore and therefore the heat. is my logic sound on this? just a side question, if the answer is too complicated don't bother lol
 
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http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...0083963 600006142 600006157&IsNodeId=1&name=9
Because I believe that DDR3-2400 is a big waste to begin with, you can get one of these at 4x8gig = 32 gigs and have CAS 9 which is likely the more important timing to start with. It is my reasoning based on testing done with smaller size sticks and this ram amount needs larger sticks. So DDR3-2133 at CAS 9 would seem by far a better choice in my mind and that is not considering any amount the ram might overclock. If you choose one of the G Skill from this link, they tend to overclock well in my experience with G Skill. YMMV.
RGone...
 
thanks for the pic man. is there a peltier hiding under that block (judging by the foam)? if so, how's it working out for you? was considering a low watt peltier if my WC can keep up. i understand that you can get more OC with less volts at lower temps, so even if it doesn't equate to more heat watt dissipation with the peltier, the cooler temps might enable me to pull off an overclock without raising the vcore and therefore the heat. is my logic sound on this? just a side question, if the answer is too complicated don't bother lol

No there's no peltier under the foam. I have 0 experience with them so really couldn't answer that question. There a guy kicking around the AMD section named ShrimpBrine. I know he has one so this question would be better suited for him. I needed the foam for condensation problems.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...0083963 600006142 600006157&IsNodeId=1&name=9
. So DDR3-2133 at CAS 9 would seem by far a better choice in my mind and that is not considering any amount the ram might overclock. If you choose one of the G Skill from this link, they tend to overclock well in my experience with G Skill. YMMV.
RGone...

I have 2x4 G.Skill Snipers and they're very flexible. Can run them @1800 with 7-9-8-24 timings and at 2510 with 10-12-11-33 timings. This is for benching so I do have the volts higher than you'd want to run everyday but I just wanted to back up RGone on the G.Skill ram :thup:
 
wow, i just got my sabertooth in and i've got to say i'm highly impressed! i haven't had an opportunity to try and overclock it yet, but it's on its auto-overclock thing and it's clocked right now at 4.55Ghz with 1.30vcore (barely hitting 41C full load).

I went ahead and am running the built in stability test in AMD overdrive utility, so far it looks totally stable. If this is any indication of what's to come, I'm liking what I see! Thanks so much everyone for your exceptional advice. I'll keep you all updated.
 
Show us what you got man. Sounds good except stability test in AOD is weak, weak.

CPU Tab in CPUz from CPUID com
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Memory Tab in CPUz from CPUID com
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SPD Tab in CPUz from CPUID com
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And this is screen capture of HWMonitor (free version) from CPUID com
HWMonitor has been scrolled enough and large enough to show Min/Max of Voltages and includes the CPU Core Temps; which are n0w called Package Temps, fully visible.

This capture is made of HWMonitor after it has been open on the desktop logging Min/Max temps and voltages while Prime 95 was running Blend Mode test on all cores for at least 20 mins and then the capture of HWMonitor was made and it shows the Min/Max temps and voltages before P95 Blend was started and while running P95 Blend mode and gives much greater insight into how the system is performing without guessing.

attachment.php


In order to attach screenshots of INDIVIDUAL images as suggested, first crop and capture the images with Snipping Tool found in Windows Accessories or equivalent. Then click on Go Advanced, a button at the bottom of every new post window. Then click on the little paperclip tool at the top of the Advanced post window when it opens. Clicking on the paperclip tool brings up the file browser/upload tool and the rest is fairly obvious.
 
Will do... Going to bed for now though. I'm not saying that's a great overclock or anything I was just impressed that it automatically over clocked that high and more or less seemed stable. It won't be on auto overclocking for very much longer though I assure you :)
 
on my way to work so i can't do much, but i wanted to do prime real quick to see what i was working with.

i noticed some weird things with the temps. one is a temp sensor looks like it's either bad or the software isn't reading it right... TMPIN2 reading 128C don't think that's right lol

also it showed my package temp initially as 50F/10C - that's impossible, it's about 70 degrees room temp and i have no special cooling that would reduce it below ambient.

interesting results though, looks like my 8th core didn't make it through my 15 minute or however long test it was. i'll see what kind of trouble i can get into tonight :burn:
 

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