HELP Please ! OC Q6600 on P5KC @ 3.0 Ghz

[Mastr Splyntr]

System Specs
Processor - Q6600 2.4 Ghz
Motherboard - ASUS P5KC (BIOS version 1203)
RAM - 4GB DDR3 (x1)
Graphic Card - Sapphire 6770 1GB GDDR5
HDD - WD Caviar Green 1TB
PSU - Cooler Master 460 W

As you can see my processor is quite old and runs at 1066 FSB (stock) so I tried OCing it to 1333 Mhz FSB that is 3.0 Ghz basically to get the most out of my RAM (1333 MHz w/o OC) but even at 2.7 Ghz (300x9) my idle temperature is around 55 to 60 while prime 95 pushes it to as high as 81. Intel recommends a max temperature of 71 for my processor. At 3.0 Ghz my system gets really unstable, prime95 would give errors plus taking the temp as high as 91 degree before I killed the power out of fright

I tried googling the combo of P5KC + Q6600 Overclock and have seen SO MANY people (enviously >_<) easily overclock it to 3.4 to 3.6 Ghz without any substantial change in temp (less than 60 sometimes even 40 when Idle) which is even less than my idle temperature at 2.7 GHz !!! I live in Karachi and my room temperature these days is in b/w 25 and 30 degree. Plus my casing has two additional fans OTHER than those on CPU, GPU and PSU, inshort its quite ventilated. Im quite sure the problem is in my BIOS settings, most of which I set to Auto as I have no idea what they mean D: Its the first time I tried OCing CPU.

<< IN SHORT, MY PROBLEM IS WITH THE ABNORMAL CORE TEMPERATURES PLUS I WOULD LIKE TO KEEP MY CPU CLOCKED (STABLE) AT 3.0 GHz AT 1333 FSB >>

Following are my current BIOS settings:

AI overclock Tuner
set to MANUAL

CPU Ratio Setting - AUTO
FSB Strap to North Bridge - AUTO
FSB Frequency - 300
PCIE Frequency - AUTO
DRAM Frequency - 1202
DRAM Command Rate - 1N
DRAM Timing Control - AUTO
DRAM Static Read Control - AUTO
DRAM Dynamic Write Control - AUTO
Adjust CHA SKEW Support - AUTO
Adjust CHB SKEW Support - AUTO
Transaction Booster - AUTO

CPU Voltage - AUTO
CPU PLL Voltage - AUTO
FSB Termination Voltage - AUTO
DRAM Voltage - AUTO
NB Voltage - AUTO
Clock Over-charging Voltage - AUTO
Load-line Calibration - AUTO
CPU GTL Voltage Reference - AUTO
NB GTL Voltage Reference - AUTO
CPU Spread Spectrum - AUTO
PCIE Spread Spectrum - AUTO

I did try lowering the CPU Voltage but then either the system gives BSOD or hangs at too low voltage OR there is no difference in temperature. Please let me know what settings to use ABOVE to lower my system temperature. And do I need changing anything for the RAM, I guess NOT :S Im pretty sure leaving most of it to AUTO is the problem. Oh and I use CPU-Z to check the clocks frequency etc and Core Temp for temperature plus my Graphic Card is at less than 40 when idle so it doesnt contribute a lot of heat in the casing.
Thank you

 

[kmo_9000]

You are not getting enough voltage, that is why you are having problems. 3ghz should be easily attainable without messing with other settings. You will need probably around 1.3v or maybe a bit lower. It's been a while since I've overclocked my Q6600.

BTW are you trying to overclock on your stock cooler? Because that is never a good idea. Go buy a Hyper 212 evo for like 30$ or something similar and try again.

 

[Coty0010]

You just need a better cooler, There are allot of suggestions all over Google on good coolers for the q6600. I am personally using a logisys deep cool on my q6600 (g0) and seeing an idle of 35c and max load of 62c @ 3Ghz (about 75-80f room temp)... But I wouldn't recommend it for anything other than g0 as it supposed to be used for 95watt or less CPUs...

Then once you get a nice cooler try upping your voltage, mine is running at 1.205 in BIOS and stable, I believe AUTO on mine is 1.200. Of course you may need to go higher if you don't have a G0 and depending on other factors (Where the chip was on the wafer, mobo, ect )...

 

[redduc900]

Take the Vcore (CPU Voltage) off Auto, and manually adjust the voltage to match the VID (Voltage ID) of the chip, which can be found using either Real Temp or Core Temp. You shouldn't need to supply any more than that for only a 300MHz overclock (2.7GHz). After setting the voltage, run Prime w/ CPU-Z open to the CPU tab while monitoring the Vcore (Core Voltage), and adjust the voltage as necessary to keep it as close as possible to the VID.

 

[scibuff]

I have the same CPU, same mobo, got CM 212+ EVO and I run it @3.0GHz with 1.325V and prime 95 never pushes it past 50C.

BTW, why are you running DRAM at 1202 if you have 1333 MHz? Just set it manually to 1333. Also, you can manually set the latency based on the numbers written on the RAM label (if they're not the same)

Perhaps PCIE frequency to 100 could help a little too. Definitely take CPU voltage off of auto, try 1.325V and run prime 95 for about 2 hours. If it passes, try to decrease the voltage by one step and run prime 95 for ~2 hours and repeat again and again it fails. Then go back up to the last good voltage and run prime 95 for 8-12 hours (if it fails at any point, set the voltage one step up and repeat)

I've read that turning everything to disabled in the CPU configuration settings may help with the OC a bit but try the above first. (If you use virtualization, e.g. VMWare, leave the Vanderpool technology enabled)

Of course, if you're getting temps close to 70 at any point, stop and look for a better air cooler. - I would really recommend the CM 212+ EVO as mentioned above. Definintely, don't try to do it with the stock cooler that came with the CPU.

 

[Mastr Splyntr]

I have the same CPU, same mobo, got CM 212+ EVO and I run it @3.0GHz with 1.325V and prime 95 never pushes it past 50C.

BTW, why are you running DRAM at 1202 if you have 1333 MHz? Just set it manually to 1333. Also, you can manually set the latency based on the numbers written on the RAM label (if they're not the same)

Perhaps PCIE frequency to 100 could help a little too. Definitely take CPU voltage off of auto, try 1.325V and run prime 95 for about 2 hours. If it passes, try to decrease the voltage by one step and run prime 95 for ~2 hours and repeat again and again it fails. Then go back up to the last good voltage and run prime 95 for 8-12 hours (if it fails at any point, set the voltage one step up and repeat)

I've read that turning everything to disabled in the CPU configuration settings may help with the OC a bit but try the above first. (If you use virtualization, e.g. VMWare, leave the Vanderpool technology enabled)

Of course, if you're getting temps close to 70 at any point, stop and look for a better air cooler. - I would really recommend the CM 212+ EVO as mentioned above. Definintely, don't try to do it with the stock cooler that came with the CPU.

Thank you everyone
in reply to scibuff: Is it not pointless to run my RAM at 1333Mhz when my processors stock FSB is only 1066MHz ?? Infact that is why im trying to overclock it to 3.0Ghz to get an FSB of 1333Mhz which would lead to my RAM running at full potential ! lawl, as for that. I dont understand all that TIMING thing AT ALL

you are right, already changed PCIE F to 100. And I tried manually adjusting the CPU voltage which is now stable at 1.3250 same as VID but then again im getting heat issues even when clocked at 2.7 Ghz prime95 pushes the temp as high as 86 I dont understand this when many others have easily clocked Q6600 to 3.0 Ghz WITH the stockcooler and the coretemp would hardly touch 60 :S

 

[Coty0010]

^ It depends on the room temperature and how well your airflow in your case. It also depends on what revision of the CPU you have, you see intel made a couple of different versions of the q6600. Older ones tend to run warmer than others.

It may also help to clean your case and cooler with some compressed air.

 

[nrbxbuev]

keep it as close as possible to the VID.

 

[scibuff]

There are a few different revisions (steppings) of Q6600. Most common are B3 and G0, out of which, the G0 overclocks a bit better if I remember correctly. (You can find this info with CPU-Z).

I really don't think you should be pushing the OC on the stock cooler (unless you're lucky, have a great chip, and the temps are good - which yours aren't). For $30 or so you can get the CM 212 Evo. There is a little point of trying to get the system stable if you gonna run 70+ temps.

 

[Mastr Splyntr]

There are a few different revisions (steppings) of Q6600. Most common are B3 and G0, out of which, the G0 overclocks a bit better if I remember correctly. (You can find this info with CPU-Z).

I really don't think you should be pushing the OC on the stock cooler (unless you're lucky, have a great chip, and the temps are good - which yours aren't). For $30 or so you can get the CM 212 Evo. There is a little point of trying to get the system stable if you gonna run 70+ temps.

^ It depends on the room temperature and how well your airflow in your case. It also depends on what revision of the CPU you have, you see intel made a couple of different versions of the q6600. Older ones tend to run warmer than others.

It may also help to clean your case and cooler with some compressed air.

Mine is G0 according to CPU-Z. Ok I just bothered checking my temps at stock clock and there is a difference (b/w 2.4 and 2.7Ghz) of only 3 degree idle and it reaches 85 while running prime95 before I shut it. Voltage is set to 1.3250 and room temperature is less than 25 these days. There are three fans in my casing (in accordance with the airflow and other than those on GPU, CPU and PSU) Its been hardly two weeks since I used a blower to get rid of all the piled up dust, sand particles etc. So this is NOT normal at stock clock right ?

 

[scibuff]

No, the stock cooler should be able to keep the CPU at around 55 idle and 70 at load. Again, I really recommend to get a better cooler, mount it properly and enjoy idle temps <40 and load temps ~55 (at 3.0).

I mean, even if your airflow was messed up and there was dust all around the place, that would make maybe extra 5-10 degrees. The heat sink is the most important part of the CPU cooling. If it is not seated properly, or the thermal compound was not applied properly, or the heat sink itself cannot handle the heat the CPU generates, you won't be able to do much about the temps (maybe knock off a degree or tow here and there).

Here's a link to the Coolermaster 212 Evo in a Pakistani online store for 4,200 rupee (~$43) which is a little more than what it costs in the US or EU but somewhat understandable for that market. If you call your local stores in Karachi you may find it cheaper.

 

[Mastr Splyntr]

No, the stock cooler should be able to keep the CPU at around 55 idle and 70 at load. Again, I really recommend to get a better cooler, mount it properly and enjoy idle temps <40 and load temps ~55 (at 3.0).

I mean, even if your airflow was messed up and there was dust all around the place, that would make maybe extra 5-10 degrees. The heat sink is the most important part of the CPU cooling. If it is not seated properly, or the thermal compound was not applied properly, or the heat sink itself cannot handle the heat the CPU generates, you won't be able to do much about the temps (maybe knock off a degree or tow here and there).

Here's a link to the Coolermaster 212 Evo in a Pakistani online store for 4,200 rupee (~$43) which is a little more than what it costs in the US or EU but somewhat understandable for that market. If you call your local stores in Karachi you may find it cheaper.

Ok but what do you say about this one, just hope its available in the market :X http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103064
Its a budget cooler as I dont intend to oc beyond 3.0 Ghz.
Btw NO my idle is 58 and on load it gets as high as 85 on default clocks :S I dont understand this, my GPU temperature stays way below that. 40 idle and max 71 on load, when GPUs are supposed to burn more X_X
Oh and thanks alot again galaxy and czone have a near duopoly in computer hardware here so they tend to be expensive yeah :{

 

[redduc900]

What's the VID of the chip?

 

[Mastr Splyntr]

What's the VID of the chip?

VID is 3.250v

Anyway, so I just installed a Thermaltake Contac 29, and tbh the temperature difference is just phenomenal. Almost 20 degree less when idle and as much as 35 less on full load @ stock clock. The only problem is when overclocking at 3.0 Ghz (333x9.0) I need to turn up the voltage way upto 1.4500 or above volts for prime95 to run stable else it would crash in less than a minute even though the system works fine for rest of the applications and temp remains well below 75 degree (maximum 72). Is there anything im doing wrong ? and is it safe to keep the voltage upto 1.5v if ur temperature is under control (that is less than 75) ?? Thanks alot though, the stockcooler really sucked. More than I could've imagined

 

[redduc900]

Even w/ a high VID of 1.325V you shouldn't need to supply more than that for a 3.0GHz clock. Are the rest of the voltages still on Auto, and what does CPU-Z show as the Vcore while running Prime? Is your RAM Memtest86+ stable, and what are the spec's of the module, including rated frequency, timings, and voltage? And what CPU-Z--> Memory tab show as the current DRAM frequency and timings? In the meantime set FSB Strap to North Bridge to 333 w/ the DRAM frequency set to DDR3-1333 / 4.00 DRAM multiplier (assuming that's the rated frequency), LLC (Load-Line Calibration) to Enabled, disable both Spread Spectrum options, and manually adjust the DRAM voltage to match your module.