Help with new cooling Setup.

[musicfan]

I think you are correct i have done some research and i think its best to let go the colored coolant and just get red colored tubing, so i have removed the colored coolant from the cart & decided to go with Distilled water itself.
Should i get silver foil then? Its available on frozencpu for about $7 and drop it in the RES?

Yes get the silver coil. You can place it in the res or inside tubing.

Replaced the 250 RES with a 150 as advised to me

Check build logs to make sure exactly where it will fit. There is risk you can bump into your video card or you may want to mount it directly onto your 35x pump

Are you referring to this radiator here

Yes that radiator is only 30 mm if you need it that thin but tests better than the GT Stealth with medium-speed fans.

I think any 120.3 radiator mounts very easily inside the case on top, though i am not sure yet if i want to mount it on top again adding to the heat inside the case, or mount it outside the case? If i decide to go with inside mount would i need to get those mount brackets which are listed below on the site as optional?

How about the Black Ice GTX Xtreme 360, i read its one of the best when comes to Heat Dissipation?

The radiator hangs easily (at least from four corners - you may have to drill a couple holes, which you will learn when you read the build-logs) but if you buy one too thick, you have to put the fans on top and then you won't have those red Bitfenix on top, which is what you want isn't it? You really need to read some build logs because the HAF X case is a bit strange with the limited room up top. Many remove the top 200 mm fans and discard them so they can get fans above and below the radiator. So figure out in advance what you seek. This is why I was concerned about moving too fast. Do we know your heat load yet?

About the fan controller, i choose this since it has the most Wattage per channel that i could find and i want to connect my CCFL's to 2 off the channels, do you think its a good idea?

I have not put lighting on a fan controller. You will want to make sure you don't over-load any circuits and that your lighting will respond. True fluorescent lighting usually doesn't work with typical voltage dimmer switches but not sure about the CCFL.

Thanks for pointing this out i have taken a note off this now

Moving on, i have read quiet a few guides about tubing sizes and how bigger ID is not really always better. However what size tubing & What brand tubing you guys would recommend getting? Is 1/2 ID 5/8 OD a good size to get. I was thinking of red color tubing preferable if i get blood red even better....

I recommend 3/8" ID & 5/8" OD tubing for you. All compressions must be exactly that size. As Conumdrum says 1/8" wall tubing will kink less than 1/16". Since the tubing has two sides when you look at it from the top, you need to get the 3/8" ID & 5/8" OD tubing to get 1/8" wall thickness all around. It's a common size so you should be able to find red.

1)Another thing i dont understand is, my CPU block compatibility chart says:
" Primary Inlet/Outlet-With 3/4" Tube OD fittings
Secondary Outlets-Max 3/8" tube OD fittings
Primary Intlet/Outlet-With 5/8" Tube OD fittings
Secondary Outlets-Max 1/2" Tube OD fittings "

Can someone pls explain me if my standard compression fitting that i get (1/2ID x 5/8OD ) would be compatible without any extra attachments?

Your CPU block has 4 ports but you are only going to use the Primary Inlet and Outlet. If you put size X in the primary ports then you will only be able to use size Y in the secondary ports. See the Swiftech website for more detail but your fitting will be compatibles

2) Can i add a flow indicator? Or will it just hamper/slow the flow of water?

You can but it is not necessary and may create more complexity for someone learning about fittings. It's your call. Will it be more fun or more headache?

3) Started doing some homework now, drew up a few possible loop setups, and i think the best to do would be RES >> Pump >> RAD>> CPU >> GPU>> RES. This would significantly reduce the length of piping required! - Your comments pls.

Loop order is fine.

4) Another prb i just realized is there isint any red tubing available for the 1/2 ID x 5/8 OD
Its only available in 1/2 ID x 3/4 OD.

Get a 10' pack of the Danger Den Dreamflex and a 10' pack of the Primochill Primoflex is my recommendation. The reds may look a little different and you may prefer one over the other. Plus you will use up 20' of tubing over the next few years if any of it fails or wears out and you wish you change. Tubing shipping is expensive so I commonly get 10' to 20' to save shipping. It's up to you. Look at the colors and see what you like. Each will work well.

Will return later today. Let's try and get the tubing size and fittings straightened out. Then go through the beginning guide and make sure we have covered it all. We still need to talk heat load and cooling and relation to fans.

Please note that I am only sharing my opinions. If they differ than others, then we can talk it out. But it does not diminish anyone's opinions already stated. We can all water-cool. Good luck.

 

[HKR]

Yes that radiator is only 30 mm if you need it that thin but tests better than the GT Stealth with medium-speed fans.

The radiator hangs easily (at least from four corners - you may have to drill a couple holes, which you will learn when you read the build-logs) but if you buy one too thick, you have to put the fans on top and then you won't have those red Bitfenix on top, which is what you want isn't it? You really need to read some build logs because the HAF X case is a bit strange with the limited room up top. Many remove the top 200 mm fans and discard them so they can get fans above and below the radiator. So figure out in advance what you seek. This is why I was concerned about moving too fast. Do we know your heat load yet?

I read that its better to have a thinner RAD if mounting on top of Haf X, because with the fan's on the RAD it might sometimes get difficult to put the RAM Chips of the drive bay might get restricted too.
Or should i look for something even thinner? with those Gently Typhoon 2000RPM ?

Should i consider this as my RAD too, seems like a decent rad?

Your CPU block has 4 ports but you are only going to use the Primary Inlet and Outlet. If you put size X in the primary ports then you will only be able to use size Y in the secondary ports. See the Swiftech website for more detail but your fitting will be compatibles.

I have already gone through the explanation on the Swiftech site, It says the block has 1 inlet and 3 outlet correct? Ugghh why is this tubing size so confusing

Would you or someone here please be willing to add a few of the black compression fittings by Alphacool or Koolance to a frozenpc cart along with elbow fittings and any other nozzels that i might need and send me a screeny, so i get a clear idea then please?

Get a 10' pack of the Danger Den Dreamflex and a 10' pack of the Primochill Primoflex is my recommendation. The reds may look a little different and you may prefer one over the other. Plus you will use up 20' of tubing over the next few years if any of it fails or wears out and you wish you change. Tubing shipping is expensive so I commonly get 10' to 20' to save shipping. It's up to you. Look at the colors and see what you like. Each will work well.

Will surely keep it in mind.


About the CPU temps, right now with a Zalman CPU cooler the idle CPU is at 45C & 52C or so and GPU idle at about 67C, both these are non-OC'ed at this time.

 

[musicfan]

1. Thinner rad up top is good for the HAF X because there is little space. That is why I want to look at build-logs and case reviews like this can help you see what is holds. Notice the photos of them removing the big fans on top because that is how you will get to the 120 mm holes to allow you to mount your radiator. I think Gentle Typhoon AP15 at 1850 rpm would work great with the Alphacool ST 30.

2. The block has one preferred inlet because that may give best temps. The other 3 ports are outlets but most only use one. The other two are for specific situations. You just happened to pick the most complicated block but as long as you plug the other 2 outlets, it will work like a regular two-hole CPU block.

The tubing size is confusing because manufacturers make what consumers demand in more sizes and colors than ever. It was easier a few years ago but less choice. Just takes time.

Normally, we do not like to make shopping list for new members, figuring they learn more when they can do this. But with your situation, I will make an effort.

Part of the confusion is we are on post #22 and we don't know why you are water-cooling (performance?, looks - obviously some with the red fans, quiet?). And I can't recall if you told us your heat load. Usually those are done in the first few posts long before we get around to shopping at the water-cooling store.

OK I will try to explain the tubing size with MS Paint. And maybe if I get time I will do some shopping suggestions for you since this is going to India. Hang in there. Will return soon.

Add: please do some load testing with Prime 95 for at least 10 minutes (30 is better) or your favorite load tester. Use Real temp for the Core temps. Then play a game to record temps or use a tester like the Heaven Engine or 3D Mark to record temp. Be careful not to get the GPU too hot if you use Furmark or Afterburner or similar. OK off to draw a hole...

 

[HKR]

1. Thinner rad up top is good for the HAF X because there is little space. That is why I want to look at build-logs and case reviews like this can help you see what is holds. Notice the photos of them removing the big fans on top because that is how you will get to the 120 mm holes to allow you to mount your radiator. I think Gentle Typhoon AP15 at 1850 rpm would work great with the Alphacool ST 30.

Thanks for the link mate, i had just gone through that one a few hours ago

The tubing size is confusing because manufacturers make what consumers demand in more sizes and colors than ever. It was easier a few years ago but less choice. Just takes time.

Normally, we do not like to make shopping list for new members, figuring they learn more when they can do this. But with your situation, I will make an effort.

What i am very much confused about is if the 3/8 x 5/8 size tubing would directly fit onto all my components without the need for any reducers etc or not?

Part of the confusion is we are on post #22 and we don't know why you are water-cooling (performance?, looks - obviously some with the red fans, quiet?). And I can't recall if you told us your heat load. Usually those are done in the first few posts long before we get around to shopping at the water-cooling store.

Well, i offcourse want to Over-clock since i do a lot of video encoding too along with the regular surfiing, movies etc. I dont mind a slightly 'noisy PC' in the day time but at night's i would surely turn down the fans so i can enjoy my quiet nights sleep

I had mentioned the loads in my previous post i think you missed it, here:
About the CPU temps, right now with a Zalman CPU cooler the idle CPU is at 45C & 55C with Prime95 running and GPU idle at about 67C, both these are non-OC'ed at this time.

OK I will try to explain the tubing size with MS Paint. And maybe if I get time I will do some shopping suggestions for you since this is going to India. Hang in there. Will return soon.

Thanks a lot mate

Should i switch the current RAD with this because i have gone through a few logs, reviews and they all say this RAD fits perfect in this case. Just want to know your opinion if its a good product?

I also forgot the most important thing, my config:
CPU: i7-920
mobo: Asus P6T Deluxe
RAM: 3x2 GB OCZ (forgot the exact model)
GPU: XFX GTX260 Black edition.
PSU: Thermaltake 850W
HDD: 4x2TB

 

[musicfan]

Hope this schematic of a cross-section of tubing explains it. Sorry it is not round.

I thought MS paint had circles but this is close enough. As Conumdrum said you must get exact size tubing to fit compressions. So if you get 3/8" ID & 5/8" OD tubing then you must get 3/8" ID & 5/8" OD compression fittings. If you get the exact size tubing and compressions then all will fit.

If you choose a slight thicker wall at 1/8" instead of 1/16" then you will be less likely to kink the tubing when you bend it.

The Feser tubing is fine if it looks the right color for you. I am using Primochill right now with good results. Buying tubing right now is kind of guessing game as to whether it will break down, which is why it may not be bad to buy 10' or so of two different brands.

Do you understand tubing sizes now? If you get all the same size tubing and compressions, you will not need reducers. You may wish some angled but that is only because we don't know yet how the tubing will bend in your loop. You may not need angled, but it can get tight around the area between the radiator ports and CPU if you hang the radiator up top and put the rad ports in the back.

 

[musicfan]

Please don't overlook this article by Conumdrum:
http://www.overclockers.com/guide-deltat-water-cooling/

What I was looking for when I said "heat load" was the estimated heat production of the components you seek to cool. Conumdrum conveniently breaks them down into "CPU heat output" and "GPU heat output". Since you are cooling a CPU & GPU, we can add up your TDP from Intel of the core i7 920 or 130 Watts to the TDP from here of the GTX260 or 175 Watts (Furmark). So the total heat load of what you are trying to water-cool is about 300 Watts at stock. For a guess at overclocking heat load, you can use a PSU calculator.

That's good information on your habits. You can raise the fan speed for load settings with your controller and turn down the fans to a silent level so you can sleep. That means you want medium-speed fans that will under-volt well instead of loud fans. If the fans are high-speed, they may not under-volt well.

Are you planning on putting the 25 mm fans under the radiator in push and putting the big red Bitfenix up top in pull? I am going to assume this until you tell me differently. If you are going to hang a 120.3 off the back then we have different concerns but the rad thickness won't be so important if you hang it.

Your load temps are great around 55°C. Are these stock 920 settings? But the idle seems high at 45°C. No worry, you are going to remount. Do you have TIM or do you need to order that?

Have you done load testing on your GPU?

OK, off to get you a shopping list from FrozenCPU that you can take apart and then see what you really want to order. I am going to put the thinner Alphacool rad in there but the xspc-ex360 would be fine if you can fit the extra 4 or 5 mm. I know that some x58 boards have tall heatsinks around the MOSFETS near the exhaust fan area. Also you don't want your RAM to have tall heatsinks or it may not fit with the fans under the rad. As I said before, if that happens then the Gentle Typhoon fans go on top and big Bitfenix go in the fanbox. You will lose some red color but little performance loss. So you make the final choice always. OK off to shop...

 

[HKR]

Please don't overlook this article by Conumdrum:
http://www.overclockers.com/guide-deltat-water-cooling/

Actually you might not believe this but i have gone through the link above too earlier today.

What I was looking for when I said "heat load" was the estimated heat production of the components you seek to cool. Conumdrum conveniently breaks them down into "CPU heat output" and "GPU heat output". Since you are cooling a CPU & GPU, we can add up your TDP from Intel of the core i7 920 or 130 Watts to the TDP from here of the GTX260 or 175 Watts (Furmark). So the total heat load of what you are trying to water-cool is about 300 Watts at stock. For a guess at overclocking heat load, you can use a PSU calculator.

The PSU Calculator Suggest i should have a recommend 620WATT SMPS.

Are you planning on putting the 25 mm fans under the radiator in push and putting the big red Bitfenix up top in pull? I am going to assume this until you tell me differently. If you are going to hang a 120.3 off the back then we have different concerns but the rad thickness won't be so important if you hang it.

Yes, that is precisely my plan, for the Gently Typhoons (1850RPM) for the push and the bitphenix to take care of air pull.

Your load temps are great around 55°C. Are these stock 920 settings? But the idle seems high at 45°C. No worry, you are going to remount. Do you have TIM or do you need to order that?

I am assuming by TIM you mean thermal paste? If so, then yes i have some Artic Silver lying around.

 

[musicfan]

Here is a shopping list that includes some of your items for reference. I split the list into two so it would fit. I decided to list several options for you in several areas such as reservoirs, radiators, fittings (there are more brands and colors), and two brands of tubing at frozenCPU. I could not find the Feser Red but that should be fine too if you get the 3/8" ID & 5/8" OD. The fittings comes in many sizes and shapes but as long as you get 3/8" ID & 5/8" OD (also called 10 mm ID & 16 mm OD or 10/16), all should fit.

Yes by TIM, I mean thermal interface material like AS5. Some would suggest a newer TIM without any capacitance (ability to hold a charge). MX-2 would be a good brand you could use on both CPU & GPU without worry.

We can talk heat load if these photos go up OK.

Oh well, page 1 is on the right and page 2 is on the left but you can figure that out. These are only my suggestions based on your system. Then let's talk about why one may be better or nearly identical to another.

One big issue we need to discuss is pump & reservoir. Do you have a HAF X build-log that you like and can link to so we can see what they did? You might also consider the 35x reservoir but would need to do a mod like Martinm210 did if you use the top as inlet. This thread discusses why I listed other reservoir options, particularly see post #8. If you do a direct connection you will want a G 1/4" connector male to male. But I am uncertain how you intend to mount your pump & res. I put the MCRES in there because that is what I use for my Laing D5 pumps and it fits nearly anywhere if you don't know what reservoir to get. Please keep asking questions.

 

[musicfan]

The PSU Calculator Suggest i should have a recommend 620WATT SMPS.

That is the way to use the PSU Calculator to determine the PSU size.

The way we often use it in water-cooling is to add in only we water-cool. This helps because the PSU has an overclock wizard for the CPU. Remember this is all a big estimate but will give us some idea of how much heat we may be asking our water-cooling components to cool.

If we put in your baseline Vcore (mine was 1.18 volts on my 920). Its stock speed is 2.66 GHz. Then check the OC box. Enter the new speed, say 4000 MHz, and the new Vcore, such as 1.35. Hit return and I get 255 Watts. That means your stock load is the TDP or 130 but with an OC to 4 GHz, you may be around 255 Watts or nearly double the stock load.

If we now add in the gtx 260 to the OC CPU and hit return, I get 426 Watts. This is nice because it fits in with our tdp estimates. You may be cooling over 400 Watts if all the heat was captured by the blocks. But it is not. Much of heat escapes so we only cool a fraction. This can get esoteric so let me know if you want to discuss. We would need to get into the differences between the V1 and V2 radiator test benches and how Martin estimates we only capture 50% to 75% of what we run through the block. One caveat though is good case air-cooling is still important and the HAF X is good at that. Are we caught up?

Again take your time and ask questions. If we have not made this too long, others may comment. If we have made it too long, you can start a new thread when you get to your final checklist(s). Will check in later this afternoon. Good luck.

 

[HKR]

Here is a shopping list that includes some of your items for reference. I split the list into two so it would fit. I decided to list several options for you in several areas such as reservoirs, radiators, fittings (there are more brands and colors), and two brands of tubing at frozenCPU. I could not find the Feser Red but that should be fine too if you get the 3/8" ID & 5/8" OD. The fittings comes in many sizes and shapes but as long as you get 3/8" ID & 5/8" OD (also called 10 mm ID & 16 mm OD or 10/16), all should fit.

I have added a few things in cart while i would like after considering options from your screeny to get please take a look:

One big issue we need to discuss is pump & reservoir. Do you have a HAF X build-log that you like and can link to so we can see what they did? You might also consider the 35x reservoir but would need to do a mod like Martinm210 did if you use the top as inlet. This thread discusses why I listed other reservoir options, particularly see post #8. If you do a direct connection you will want a G 1/4" connector male to male. But I am uncertain how you intend to mount your pump & res. I put the MCRES in there because that is what I use for my Laing D5 pumps and it fits nearly anywhere if you don't know what reservoir to get. Please keep asking questions.

I was thinking of going for the reservior i had added to the cart (Bitspower Water tank).

Only thing i haven't added to the cart is the RAD, and upon doing some research i have found that:

It says here that HAF X can accept a combined depth of fan+RAD on top of around 80MM.

black Ice GTX Xtreme 360 fits well in the HAF x, see here

Black Ice SR1 Low Air Flow Optimized : Not sure if this fits, cannot find build logs on this one in a HAF X.

XSPC RX360 Triple 120mm - seem quite big in depth for my case.

XSPC EX360 Crossflow Triple 120mm - Seems like this can fit since its low profile

Swiftech MCR320-XP eXtreme Performance Triple 120mm - Looks this can fit too because of profile but cannot find build logs for this case

So, please pour in your advice on which one i should get?

 

[musicfan]

Your list looks good. Nice job.

Quickly:

1) good CPU block
2) That pump has native 1/2" barbs so will not fit your tubing - the 3/8" converters are nylon barbs I think. You obviously want the Swiftech 655 instead of 35x but I think you want this one with the G 1/4" ports so you can attach your compression fittings.
3)the Swiftech website says it will allow 10 mm ID tubing but does not give the OD and it could be 13 mm or 16 mm so I wrote them but who knows when I will hear back. Your 90° fittings should do the job of replacing the barbs.
4) etc...

Hope your tubing color is good. I would still order an extra of either Primochill or Danger Den if you are picky otherwise it's fine. You can also dye clear tubing if you get desperate.

I read your first link. The most important post IMO is that Coolermaster says you have 3" above the motherboard or around 76.2 mm. You can write them to make sure. Your second link says the BIX will NOT fit if I read it correctly (see post #9). You have to make sure they are not talking about the 932. But you can always see the difference if you get a chance because the 932 allows the PSU to be mounted up top but the HAF X does not.

So we are back to deciding the radiator. If you could fit the fans flush with your mobo, you would still be limited to around 50 mm. But you also have to get your CPU mobo 8 pin up top so you need extra clearance. Since you don't have the 932, I would avoid risk and get a slim radiator, preferably under 40 mm. So I think that brings us back to same 3 radiator models I listed above in post #28. Avoid the crossflow EX because it is longer than average and you are going to bump into your drive bays as it is. But among the three I listed there are only slight performance differences. The dimensions at FrozenCPU are 124x399x30mm for the ST 30; Swiftech site says 128x402x34 mm for the Swiftech-MCR-XP, which is supposed to be the same as MCR-QP; and Frozen says 121x395x35.5 for the XSPC-EX360.

It we can't find build-logs, I would probably go with the ST 30 because it is the thinnest and your problem will be hitting your MOSFET heatsink and RAM heatsinks with the fans. You may want that 4 mm. On the other hand, the XP follows the footprint of the QP and the EX is the shortest. So all will likely fit. I also tried to find build-logs but see our problem now. Most water-coolers don't try to keep the big fan up top.

 

[Conumdrum]

Most watercoolers dump that low pressure useless fan up top and get performance (quiet and good CFM/Pressure fans). It's not made for watercooling.

 

[musicfan]

Have searched for build-logs but the HAF X's I see are without the big top fans or they are with an RX360 and fans hanging over the motherboard.

Here is a review from Martin that covers the ST 30 but I forgot about the screw guard. See the photo on page 2 of his review. Now that is very nice and puts that in the lead IMO.

The performance issue goes in circles. You get better performance at around 1000 rpm where you will want your AP15's to surf, etc. with the ST30. With the AP15's at 1800 rpm where you may run under load, the XP performs best. Martin reviews both at his site. In between the EX are probably slightly better from Bundymania's review of the XSPC EX.

Have thought about it and I think they all will fit and all will cool. But, IMO the screw-guard is the most important feature because it may save you from puncturing your new radiator. Will check in tomorrow if you have more questions. Good luck.

 

[musicfan]

Just got a return email only 7 hours after asking about the MCW82 fittings (impressive support). It was from Swiftech's CEO Gabe Rouchon so it's solid. My question was "will 10/16 compressions fit on the MCW82 in place of the barbs?"

Hi There,

Thank you for your interest for Swiftech products.

I can certainly help you with this.

There is not enough space between the inlet and outlet ports of the waterblock to natively support 3/8x5/8 (10/16mm) compression fittings. If you want to use larger compression fittings (like 5/8 or ¾ OD), you can by using dual rotary fittings like this:



I hope this helped.

Best regards,

Gabe

I presume you are going to use the 90° rotary adapter (ex-tub-743) with compressions for the GPU block? Then you have the 90° triple rotary (ex-tub-753) to work down from the radiator if you need to?

If true that's: CPUx2, GPUx2, reservoir x2 or 3 (? fill-tube) or 4 if need to do any mod to prevent vortex...or 8 total. I put extra in case some are damaged but 8 or 10 would likely work...unless perhaps you want a drain. If you decide you want a drain, you may want a T-cube and plug with 3 compression fittings (that's not the only way to make a drain).

Conumdrum's input made me look at your fans again. Powerful 200 mm fans are hard to find. Below are two fan models I have see used on 200 mm or 1260 rads. They move more air, fit 200 mm fan holes, and are still red. You can substitute one of these models for fan-839 if you wish:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...o_230mm_Fan_-_Red_LED_BFF-LPRO-23030R-RP.html

NZXT's entry of 200 mm fan is not quite as powerful but is also red.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...Silent_LED_Fans_-_Red_LED_895CFM_2016dBA.html

 

[HKR]

Your list looks good. Nice job.

Quickly:
2) That pump has native 1/2" barbs so will not fit your tubing - the 3/8" converters are nylon barbs I think. You obviously want the Swiftech 655 instead of 35x but I think you want this one with the G 1/4" ports so you can attach your compression fittings.

I remembered earlier you said the same thing to me, so just yesterday i chatter with someone from the FrozenCPU (great guy BTW) and he said the product shipped with extra G 1/4 thread barbs so i should be able to use 3/8 x 5/8 compression fittings easily, that was the reason i added it, however if you say the pump you linked is much better i'll go ahead and add that for now.

Hope your tubing color is good. I would still order an extra of either Primochill or Danger Den if you are picky otherwise it's fine. You can also dye clear tubing if you get desperate.

I'm adding PrimoChill for time being too, for the best UV reactant tubing i was recommended the XSPC tubing which i added by the FrozenCPU guy.

I read your first link. The most important post IMO is that Coolermaster says you have 3" above the motherboard or around 76.2 mm. You can write them to make sure. Your second link says the BIX will NOT fit if I read it correctly (see post #9). You have to make sure they are not talking about the 932. But you can always see the difference if you get a chance because the 932 allows the PSU to be mounted up top but the HAF X does not.

So we are back to deciding the radiator. If you could fit the fans flush with your mobo, you would still be limited to around 50 mm. But you also have to get your CPU mobo 8 pin up top so you need extra clearance. Since you don't have the 932, I would avoid risk and get a slim radiator, preferably under 40 mm. So I think that brings us back to same 3 radiator models I listed above in post #28. Avoid the crossflow EX because it is longer than average and you are going to bump into your drive bays as it is. But among the three I listed there are only slight performance differences. The dimensions at FrozenCPU are 124x399x30mm for the ST 30; Swiftech site says 128x402x34 mm for the Swiftech-MCR-XP, which is supposed to be the same as MCR-QP; and Frozen says 121x395x35.5 for the XSPC-EX360.

It we can't find build-logs, I would probably go with the ST 30 because it is the thinnest and your problem will be hitting your MOSFET heatsink and RAM heatsinks with the fans. You may want that 4 mm. On the other hand, the XP follows the footprint of the QP and the EX is the shortest. So all will likely fit. I also tried to find build-logs but see our problem now. Most water-coolers don't try to keep the big fan up top.

So, are you saying i should get rid of the Gently Typhoons i had chosen for the RAD or switch the Bitfenix on top of the case with the ones you linked above? I will still try finding some material on the above RAD's and then just add the slimmest to avoid any problems.

I presume you are going to use the 90° rotary adapter (ex-tub-743) with compressions for the GPU block? Then you have the 90° triple rotary (ex-tub-753) to work down from the radiator if you need to?

If true that's: CPUx2, GPUx2, reservoir x2 or 3 (? fill-tube) or 4 if need to do any mod to prevent vortex...or 8 total. I put extra in case some are damaged but 8 or 10 would likely work...unless perhaps you want a drain. If you decide you want a drain, you may want a T-cube and plug with 3 compression fittings (that's not the only way to make a drain).

Actually i had got the ex-tub-753 for my GPU block, and the ex-tub-743 for the RAD or anywhere else i might need it and the ex-tub-604 for rest of the components since i would only need 6-8pcs i got a few spare incase 1 was broken.

About the drain, i was just going to ask you how i should do it? Some one suggested i should just open the RES and re-fill/drain?
How else would you suggest making a drain without much fittings etc? Because i feel i am slightly over budget now

Conumdrum's input made me look at your fans again. Powerful 200 mm fans are hard to find. Below are two fan models I have see used on 200 mm or 1260 rads. They move more air, fit 200 mm fan holes, and are still red. You can substitute one of these models for fan-839 if you wish.

I'll look into the fans and replace them with one's suggested, Althought the one fan you suggested by Bitfenix is a 230mm fan, you sure it will fit on top?

1) Why have you added the Swiftech Lok-Seal™ compression fitting, i dont see any use of it?

 

[HKR]

It seems all of these RAD's would be a easy fit since they are within 35mm of thinkness:

1) Alphacool ST30 here

2) XSPC EX360 here.

3) MCR320-XP here.

4) MCR320-QP here.

Now we just gotta choose which one is best performance wise!
I also came across a video of a guy doing a push/pull with fans on both side of the RAD along with the Top fans of the HAF X still installed, you can see here now i am quiet sure we can easily fit a 30-40mm RAD + 25mm fans. But the push with fans only on one side of the RAD and the top case fans doing pull is it really effective ?

Although this review here says you can fit a 80mm RAD, however not sure if that is including 25mm fans on both side or just one side or 80mm including fan & RAD.

About the tubing, should i get PrimoChill & DangerDen and remove XSPC completely?

Sorry about so many edits
Just came across an interesting article here.

 

[musicfan]

I remembered earlier you said the same thing to me, so just yesterday i chatter with someone from the FrozenCPU (great guy BTW) and he said the product shipped with extra G 1/4 thread barbs so i should be able to use 3/8 x 5/8 compression fittings easily, that was the reason i added it, however if you say the pump you linked is much better i'll go ahead and add that for now.

Just so your pump frame has been modded to accept the G 1/4" thread, all is well. The D5/Swiftech 655 that comes from US vendors without the mod is a native 1/2" barb, which you don't want. I know because I have two D5/655's.

I'm adding PrimoChill for time being too, for the best UV reactant tubing i was recommended the XSPC tubing which i added by the FrozenCPU guy.

So, are you saying i should get rid of the Gently Typhoons i had chosen for the RAD or switch the Bitfenix on top of the case with the ones you linked above? I will still try finding some material on the above RAD's and then just add the slimmest to avoid any problems.

No. Please keep the Gentle Typhoon AP15's x3. They will be your push fans under the radiator up top. They will supply the majority of the ventilation of your radiator. The top fans may not add very much other than a nice red glow.

Actually i had got the ex-tub-753 for my GPU block, and the ex-tub-743 for the RAD or anywhere else i might need it and the ex-tub-604 for rest of the components since i would only need 6-8pcs i got a few spare in case 1 was broken.

About the drain, i was just going to ask you how i should do it? Some one suggested i should just open the RES and re-fill/drain?
How else would you suggest making a drain without much fittings etc? Because i feel i am slightly over budget now

Your fittings will work fine. Just wanted to make sure you had plans for them. You don't NEED a drain. Many find them unsightly and I didn't have one for about a year. You simply need to unplug tubing from a fitting and catch the coolant in a plastic cup or pitcher. If you do that in the base of your case (are you putting the pump there?) with a towel, you can do fine. A drain is more elegant but not necessary. And without it, you can save about $50 in parts.

To make a $10 drain, you can simply buy a nylon T-tube and a plug.

I'll look into the fans and replace them with one's suggested, Althought the one fan you suggested by Bitfenix is a 230mm fan, you sure it will fit on top?

1) Why have you added the Swiftech Lok-Seal™ compression fitting, i dont see any use of it?

HKR, I apologize for that 230 mm fan suggestion. It would fit in my haf 932 because I have flipped the front and top fans. But apparently that is not so in the HAF X. Let's skip the 230 and discuss in your next post because I think we found the same search material.

The Lok-Seal was only there so you would know they exist in your size. Some really like them. Bitspower has the widest selection and is a solid brand name. I have more Bitspower than any other brand in my system.

 

[HKR]

Just a small question, if i had a drain pipe and close it with a plug, how exactly am u supposed to re-fill using the drain pipe? If i am running the system and want to add more liquid wont the coolant start flowing out of the drain pipe while i am trying to add more?

Also, about the radiators, and the push/pull config, should we just use the top case fans to do the pull and the RAD fans doing the push or vice-versa? That way we get a little more room to get a slightly fatter RAD if needed since we have about 70-80mm are to play with including the RAD fans.

I was also thinking of switching over the Bitfenix Spectra with NZXT FS-200 or something similar as these are much cheaper and almost same CFM what do you think? I plan to do this since i am going a little over budget here...

About the RAD should i go with the MCR-320 QP and we could under-volt the Typhoons or i could get the ST-30 for better looks and screw protectors near the fins to avoid puncturing rad fins?

 

[musicfan]

It seems all of these RAD's would be a easy fit since they are within 35mm of thinkness:

1) Alphacool ST30 here

2) XSPC EX360 here.

3) MCR320-XP here.

4) MCR320-QP here.

Now we just gotta choose which one is best performance wise!
I also came across a video of a guy doing a push/pull with fans on both side of the RAD along with the Top fans of the HAF X still installed, you can see here now i am quiet sure we can easily fit a 30-40mm RAD + 25mm fans. But the push with fans only on one side of the RAD and the top case fans doing pull is it really effective ?

I agree on the rads and in a post above, I discussed performance with testing at Martin's and by Bundymania. They are very close. Any one is fine but I would go with the Alphacool since it is 30 mm and has the screw-guard. That is a good video on the H100 push/pull in the top of the case? Did you notice the 75 cm? Guess those guys at Coolermaster who said 3 inch clearance must be correct, eh? That is great information to see it though.

Although this review here says you can fit a 80mm RAD, however not sure if that is including 25mm fans on both side or just one side or 80mm including fan & RAD.

When I read it on the last page, they were talking about putting a 25 to 80 mm thick rad on top - not inside. The FAQ on the page before mentions 60 mm rads like the XSPC RX but we have see how those are mounted, i.e. rad underneath and fans on top.

About the tubing, should i get PrimoChill & DangerDen and remove XSPC completely?

I would, but it's a bit of a guess and I don't fault whatever brand you choose as long as it fits. I think you should get two popular brands in case one starts to break down prematurely. There have been some bad batches of tubing so we are playing the odds by getting 2 batches. Plus you will likely use it anyway in the next couple of years. You may decide you will cut tubing instead of using a drain. Or you may decide a color looks awful. Some of the colors at the studios don't look the same in our home. Just my opinion. I go through about 10' of tubing each year because I replace all my tubing at least yearly but others try to make it last longer.

Sorry about so many edits
Just came across an interesting article here.

It's funny that I found the exact same link (we must both be using similar search engines, ha-ha). It convinced me that putting a 230 mm fan up top in a HAF X would be a headache. So let's talk fans. The HAF X has a unique top. For proper fit, it would be prudent to stick to 200 x 200 x 20 mm. Going to 25 or 30 mm thick fans will get you a more powerful fan at the risk of not fitting. And the 200 x 230 that fits up front can't go up top like in the 932. These are updates that Coolermaster made to the HAF 932 case to make it a HAF X and we can live with them. So stick with the Bitfenix fans you originally had in your cart. You are correct that fit comes first. Even the Coolermaster MagaFlow line of more powerful fans won't fit the HAF X. That is why there is the unhappy face at the Bitfenix forum thread. But you are OK because the AP-15's in push are very powerful.

You are very close. Is it time to make another shopping list and post it? Perhaps we can figure out if there are ways to trim the costs?

 

[HKR]

I agree on the rads and in a post above, I discussed performance with testing at Martin's and by Bundymania. They are very close. Any one is fine but I would go with the Alphacool since it is 30 mm and has the screw-guard. That is a good video on the H100 push/pull in the top of the case? Did you notice the 75 cm? Guess those guys at Coolermaster who said 3 inch clearance must be correct, eh? That is great information to see it though.

AplhaCool ST30 it is

I would, but it's a bit of a guess and I don't fault whatever brand you choose as long as it fits. I think you should get two popular brands in case one starts to break down prematurely. There have been some bad batches of tubing so we are playing the odds by getting 2 batches. Plus you will likely use it anyway in the next couple of years. You may decide you will cut tubing instead of using a drain. Or you may decide a color looks awful. Some of the colors at the studios don't look the same in our home. Just my opinion. I go through about 10' of tubing each year because I replace all my tubing at least yearly but others try to make it last longer.

Adding Danger Den & PrimoChill, althought if i go over budget with my setup i might just increase a feet or 2 of PrimoChill and remove DangerDen. (I know its only $25 for it,but at the end it always add's up)

It's funny that I found the exact same link (we must both be using similar search engines, ha-ha). It convinced me that putting a 230 mm fan up top in a HAF X would be a headache. So let's talk fans. The HAF X has a unique top. For proper fit, it would be prudent to stick to 200 x 200 x 20 mm. Going to 25 or 30 mm thick fans will get you a more powerful fan at the risk of not fitting. And the 200 x 230 that fits up front can't go up top like in the 932. These are updates that Coolermaster made to the HAF 932 case to make it a HAF X and we can live with them. So stick with the Bitfenix fans you originally had in your cart. You are correct that fit comes first. Even the Coolermaster MagaFlow line of more powerful fans won't fit the HAF X. That is why there is the unhappy face at the Bitfenix forum thread. But you are OK because the AP-15's in push are very powerful.

I guess you are right, i'll just stick with the BitFenix & even if i dint want to i dont have options as they dont have anything else in 200x200x20 size anyways!

You are very close. Is it time to make another shopping list and post it? Perhaps we can figure out if there are ways to trim the costs?

Here is a of my updated shopping cart.

Please tell me if i am missing something or you think i can remove that and save some money there.

A few more questions:

1) Please comment on the VRM heatsinks if they are good enough or i need some others?

2) I find a lot of Thermal compounds on frozencpu, can you link me to the best one pls so i can add that.

3) I was thinking of mounting the RES either next to the motherboard if there is enough room or else next to the back fan near the window or else lastly at the bottom on the chasis, what are your views? (Couldn't find much material on this RES install either). Either ways will i need some additional fitting to install and connect the RES to the tubing?

4) Should i switch the pump for the one you mentioned a while ago or this is fine? Will i not need any additional fittings?

5) My RES seems to have 3 ports on one side and 1 on the other, i dont understand why, you got any clue?