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How can I make the Reserator a good cooler?
- Thread starter infiniteq
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- Jul 6, 2002
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- Good old UK
If I had a reserator and was going with this direction, I'd buy some clear perspex tubing to fit over the vanes like the previous suggestions first of all. Mount the fan on top as suggested as well. For an improvement, I'd induce a bong type swirl inside, by drilling another inlet hole off centre about halfway up the reserator. Have the inlet pipe there, which would be tubed up between a couple of vanes, if there's room for this. The vortex induced would increase the turbulence inside and hence cooling efficiency. As well as this, the vortex would also bleed the bubble out effectively - I've found this with the res I made on my current system.
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- Dec 5, 2001
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I was just thinking...could this be made into a sort of closed-bong? I know that after a short time the humidity inside would get around 100% preventing evaporation of the spray, but then you'd have water condensing on the sides allowing for a bit more evaporation. Overall I don't think trying to spray the water would hurt anything, unless the nozzle added more restriction than the pump could handle. It nothin else, use the tubing method to bring water to the top and let it rain down a bit inside.
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- Oil Country
Alacritan said:
LOL while you're at it, might as well throw in a rad, some fans and some 1/2in tubing.
Nandro
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I added a small rad and 2 80MM fans to it and the temps droped alot. I cant do any tests right now because that system was killed by hurricaine charley, but will as soon as its up.
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- Oil Country
Nandro said:
Passive is'nt worth a darn as you probably have noticed after putting some 80's on there. I have a link I think will illustrate this but before I do you can make a silent system using large rads and fans volted to inaudibility around 4-5V. Trust me i've done it and am working on a new build doing the same. It's really just more work...but much better results.
Here is the first link from a site in germany, which reviews it all, showing one of the best passive rad they have tested: the very expensive Innovatek Maxi @$180. Delta T: 13.40 K
http://216.239.37.104/translate_c?h.../index.php?open=4&show=7&prev=/language_tools
Next up are some activly cooled rads, when they, germans, "activly" cool them they mean a Pabst(s) 120mm @5V which is silent. Delta T's are 0.60-2.60K depending on rad.
http://216.239.37.104/translate_c?h.../index.php?open=4&show=4&prev=/language_tools
Airflow and rad surface area is where it's at. Not blocks, not pumps and definitly not passive rads for the most part. Heat can only get out of the system one way, rads, choose wisely.
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okay, diddnt like the twin towers joke.
If you want to make it a better cooler, you'll have to redesign it to be a better cooler...its not designed to be a good cooler, and that makes it a hard starting point.
I dont know much about it, i've not seen one in person and thats how i learn.
I suppose you could mod it into one of those nuclkear towers by usign the top as an inlet, spreading the water out, and lettign it "rain" into the bottom, having an air intake of some sort ubove the water line (fill it 1/4 and have air intake ubove that, exaust up top)...that would geatly help your temps but youd have the issue of all evaporative coolers...the water evaporates. This is where the "twin towers" idea came in, a valve and some thinking could allow the current res, or reserator or whatever, to be an overflow tank, which allows more water into the current setup to replace the water evaporating...(i guess i diddnt explain my idea very well, i was probably tired)
The thing is, the entire system is based on the idea that hot metal will cool off in cooler air...but not very fast if that air isnt moving. Adding a fan or two will help, but not much as its not designed for airflow...
you may find that buildign a cheap cooling tower to add to your system would create a rather envyable system....such as the twin tower cooler i am proposing.
If you want to make it a better cooler, you'll have to redesign it to be a better cooler...its not designed to be a good cooler, and that makes it a hard starting point.
I dont know much about it, i've not seen one in person and thats how i learn.
I suppose you could mod it into one of those nuclkear towers by usign the top as an inlet, spreading the water out, and lettign it "rain" into the bottom, having an air intake of some sort ubove the water line (fill it 1/4 and have air intake ubove that, exaust up top)...that would geatly help your temps but youd have the issue of all evaporative coolers...the water evaporates. This is where the "twin towers" idea came in, a valve and some thinking could allow the current res, or reserator or whatever, to be an overflow tank, which allows more water into the current setup to replace the water evaporating...(i guess i diddnt explain my idea very well, i was probably tired)
The thing is, the entire system is based on the idea that hot metal will cool off in cooler air...but not very fast if that air isnt moving. Adding a fan or two will help, but not much as its not designed for airflow...
you may find that buildign a cheap cooling tower to add to your system would create a rather envyable system....such as the twin tower cooler i am proposing.
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- Oct 4, 2004
roscal said:Like me for a review. A single paper sheet around it with a fan on the top to exhaut warm air :
For ~115 W real, improvement in delta (water temp-air temp) is ~8°C at 5V and ~13°C at 12 V (fan NMB 115 cfm max). 5V is recommend to have silence with a PAPST fan. A little airflow is only necessary to enhance convection (natural to forced).
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Would a copper sheet be better ie improve the radiative conductance as well as the airflow?
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How about adding some flow?
a c-systems pump and some 3/8" tubbing seems like a pretty easy thing to do. Not sure how you can mod the connecters to allow better flow but it is worth a look.
a c-systems pump and some 3/8" tubbing seems like a pretty easy thing to do. Not sure how you can mod the connecters to allow better flow but it is worth a look.
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i would just buy a cheap 120mm fan and a cheap ratiatior and connect it to the existing lines on ur resarator to help dissapate the heat in the water
Like me for a review. A single paper sheet around it with a fan on the top to exhaut warm air :
For ~115 W real, improvement in delta (water temp-air temp) is ~8°C at 5V and ~13°C at 12 V (fan NMB 115 cfm max). 5V is recommend to have silence with a PAPST fan. A little airflow is only necessary to enhance convection (natural to forced).
What would be the best way to cool down the temperature, the fan blowing down cool air on the res or the fan exhausting hot hair out of the res?
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- Marietta, GA
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- Marietta, GA
They were never any good :S
It's all right if you prefer noiseless computing. Right now I only run a side fan inside the case on 600 rpm and I have temps as:
NB: 42c
CPU: 40c
MB: 35c
GPU: 38c
The res is watercooling the CPU, NB+MOSFET, South bridge and GPU.
AMD Phenom II X4 965
MSI 790FX-GD70(MS-7577)
AMD Radeon HD 7700 Series
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That data is completely irrelevant without a whole lot more context than that. It's made of aluminum though, and as far as I'm concerned, that means it should never come near a serious WC loop.
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Now how about some load temps running Prime 95 small ffts and Heaven benchmark looped at max for 30 minutes, and your ambient temps too. Load temps please, not idle temps.
AND HOLY BATMAN THREAD REVIVAL!!! What was the reason for that?
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Not so much difference, I have no problem with this setup. PC is cool and my small room stays cool and it's almost noiseless. Right now I'm experimenting with a Noctua 140mm fan on top of the res with lowest 750rpm. And I might only put in a top fan blowing in air towards the board and not out, which doesn't do much good on the temps.
Why would a small rad inside the case be a better option? Why would you want to have a rad in the case where components are hot and impact your radiators cooling capacity.
I will do a test when I'm done with my setup, and for the thread revival, Google search for "reserator fan mod" brought me here.
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