How to mod a Heatercore (Dual 120mm version)

[weapon]

as stated by br408408 above, drilling large diameter holes in the thin tank material can lead to some nasty problems - a large diameter drill tends to catch on the edge of the thin tank metal and then put a nice rip in it. Sometimes it isn't too bad and it can be fixed but every now and then it will tear the hell out of the tank and there is almost no fixing it.

cutting off the factory tubes on the 302 - so long as you have enough of the copper tubing left to slip tubing over it and clamp it down, it shouldn't be a problem. Make sure you smooth off the edges of the copper so it won't cut your tubing and do not crank down metal hose clamps too much if that is what you are using. The copper tubing used on cores is often fairly soft and overtightening a worm drive metal hose clamp can bend it.

 

[Stoner51]

Thanks for the reply. Yes I am using worm drive clamps. seems to be OK. I took a dremel to the edges(the brush attachment) so that they would not cut the tubing seems to be OK. Just wondering if anybody had tried this. If it does not work than I will have to remove the tubes and redrill. It just seems like it might have been easier to do this way. As long as it works. I will let everybody know later.

 

[Jawadali]

Weapon, would you happen to have the Heatercore Database link (the one that gives the GDI and Fedco part numbers)?

Also, what small heatercore (1x120mm fan) would you recommend for a basic setup? I don't have a lot of room, and I don't have time to cut my whole case to fit the 2-199,

 

[weapon]

Weapon, would you happen to have the Heatercore Database link (the one that gives the GDI and Fedco part numbers)?

Also, what small heatercore (1x120mm fan) would you recommend for a basic setup? I don't have a lot of room, and I don't have time to cut my whole case to fit the 2-199,

Jawadali

The 86 chevette core is usually the best route to go with for a single 120mm fan if you don't want to buy one of the 120 cores from dtek which are a bit smaller than the chevette cores. The local shop can get the '86 chevette core for about $22 and it is fairly easy to mod. I built one quite some time ago out of a 86 chevette for a midtower and they work well.

this one has been moved thru several cases and it is looking somewhat worse for all the wear and tear but you get the idea:
http://pages.suddenlink.net/weapon/images/arsglcore.jpg
that was made before there were any commercially available shrouds - if I were going to build one now, the coolingworks coolshroud (around $12) would be bolted onto it with a single SanAce 120.

heatercore links *someone smack me for not posting these earlier*
https://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/mfr,...eat+xxampxx+Air+Conditioning,6864,Heater+Core
http://webbase.transpro.com/hotcat/
^great resources for cores
http://www.autopart.com/radiatorinfo/heatercoretech.htm
^part # cross reference

 

[Jawadali]

Thanks for the model # and the links. If they aren't already stickied, PM a mod to do it. I think they are definitly worth a sticky.

 

[sunrunner20]

Would using a soldering iron and some tin solder seal the barb threads properly too?

 

[weapon]

Would using a soldering iron and some tin solder seal the barb threads properly too?

I seriously doubt that you would ever be able to get the brass fittings or the tank hot enough with an iron (unless it is some massive industrial job) to melt the solder and get a good seal. If you don't want to go with the torch method, the viable fall-back position is a good heavy dose of JB Weld

 

[weapon]

just a minor update:

I just came across some new 302s that are copper but they don't have the ridge down the side panel. i.e. they have the horizonal ridged sides like the brass ones. I really wish the manufacturers of the cores would make up their minds. lol. anyway, they have the 10.75" core (finned area)

 

[weapon]

more insanity coming to this thread soon - I just ordered a ton of equipment for a new mod that should vault the 302 (or any other copper/brass core) up a few more notches in performance.

also, I finally picked up a DD dual 120 core just for the fun it - looks like a 2-199 to me if I have ever seen such a creature. The fittings were a bit worrisome as they looked like flow killers so I removed them and added 1/2" pipe to 3/8" NPT copper adapters - that was about a 5 minute soldering job with the torch and it seems to have greatly improved the flow.

I'll try to get pics of that moddage up a bit later...can't figure out what I did with them.

 

[ctrl_alt_del_]

can anyone verify if this is the correct part # at Autozone for the 77 Bon. Core?

399078

thanks!

 

[weapon]

can anyone verify if this is the correct part # at Autozone for the 77 Bon. Core?

399078

thanks!

yep - that would be the right one - that is the GDI # - 399078. Almost all of the boxes have the GDI# along with the Napa number, the stant number, etc.

here is the full list of numbers that can be on the box:
Fedco 2-302
GDI 399078
Napa 3056
Four Seasons 94501
Everco 2303
Stant 90780
Murray - 219133

Edit - take a close look at the pics that are throughout this thread - the copper tanked core still holds the title as the easiest one to mod due to the fittings they have used on everyone that I have seen. Some of the brass cores have the regular tubes but some of them have the crimped in tubes that require more effort to change out. They cost the same so pull the core out of the box before you buy it and look at the tanks the tubes where they enter the tanks. There should be only a solder bead there - if it looks like there is a lip that comes out from the tank and the tube attaches into that, it is one of the barbed ones. More on that in a second. The Ready Aire cores I have seen lately look good but I have seen at least one of them with the barbs so you cannot go entirely by brand.

Note on the brass tanked and side paneled cores - I just came across another one of those that had the barbed fittings that are a bit more difficult to get out but this time I immediately spotted it for what it was and took an entirely different approach to modding it that made it much easier.

First, I took a hi-speed cutoff wheel and cut the tubes off at the tanks. Then I overlubed a 3/8" NPT tap and slowing tapped each side. Without drilling or anything else, the tap cut out the remaining copper from the factory pipes and left some nice threads in their place. The core now has fittings installed and it was only a couple minutes more mod time as the dremel cutout wheel made short work of the factory copper tubes.

The newest revision of the monster core will be added to this thread soon if anyone wants to see the latest insanity...lol - this thing dwarfs the 302 but the bare core is a bit expensive.

 

[ctrl_alt_del_]

here is my question: why can I just shorten the original tubes on the HB an use a nice clamp to afix the tygon to it? is it some restriction problem with them or is it just adding barbs to the tubes?

and by the way Weapon, thats some skills bro, keep it up and thanks for the answer!!

 

[weapon]

here is my question: why can I just shorten the original tubes on the HB an use a nice clamp to afix the tygon to it? is it some restriction problem with them or is it just adding barbs to the tubes?

and by the way Weapon, thats some skills bro, keep it up and thanks for the answer!!

thanks.

As for the factory tubes, you can cut them off, smooth the ends a little and then put tubing over them but you can have restriction problems depending on the core you get. Once you cut them, take a flashlight and see if you can tell how far they go into the tank. If they stop after going only 1/4" or so into the tank, they are probably fine. I have seen a few that are almost pushed against the back wall of the top tank and they can definitely screw up your flow.

One other benefit from the swap out with the threading route is it makes for a more stress proof mounting point. I thread them and then solder them in place and that makes the fitting more resistent to a solder crack or other possible leakage at the barb.

 

[br408408]

Yes, that would be correct. I got mine from Autozone

Bill

 

[br408408]

Sorry, weapon, I went in through me email, and did not see that you had posted a reply.

Bill

 

[H2]

Hey Silver,

Have you got some links to some pictures of your External box you built with the Bonneville heater cores.
I really am just about to build a 24" long 9" wide box to mount all my watercooling gear in to put my Lian 70 case on top of it.
Thanks for all the good information guys.

 

[weapon]

no probs br408408 - from what I have seen of your mods, you definitely know what you're doing.

couple of quick notes on core selection - I meant to add these on several occasions but something always pops up and makes me forget to do it.

notes on case selection for dual 120 cores -

the 1st one is pretty much like picking real estate - with real estate it is location x 3, with dual cores, it is measure x 3 - and I don't mean just the front panel or top panel. You have to consider the location of other parts that might be a royal pain to move (i.e. a power switch can take a few hours of fiberglass or plastic work to relocate if it is locked into a plastic front bezel). If you are going for a top mount (internal or external) look at the position of the PSU and the drive bays.

unusual case design -
for example, the CM Stacker. It is a great case but the lower front of it is unusual in that it has no front wall and it has bays all the way to the floor. getting a big core in there is possible but you have to measure everything and double check it to make sure it will fit or get ready to do some modding.

smaller cases - external box or smaller watercooling components. There is not a lot of room for anything else.

Before you order anything, make sure it will fit - think thru your mods after measuring your case. Consider how you will route tubing, where fans will go, where the pump will be located, etc. Buying parts and trying to make them fit afterwards is never as easy as measuring, checking the specs for whatever parts you are considering and then buying parts that will fit in your case or at least checking to see if mods that will make your parts fit are entirely possible. If you have the time, buy the main components that are the smallest first - then get tubing and see if it will make the bends you need it to make for the rest of your loop to work. it can save a lot of

 

[SGTFury]

Weapon, question about the 77 bonni mod - is it necessary to tap the holes once you take out the factory tubes? I don't have a tap, and it appears Home-Depot only carries that part online, so it looks like a pita to get one. Can I just use the torch and solder the barbs directly in without the threads?

 

[Delirious]

I had to special order a fedco 2-342, and before i read this thread i went to pick it up and it ended up haveing the oval holes for the tubes .

How hard is it to mod these, if at all possible?

Weapon? do u sell pre moded 2-342's?

 

[SGTFury]

Yeah, I had no idea how hard it would be to find a 3/8-18 NPT tap. NO ONE has the thing, I went all over town, plumbing, hardware and auto-parts stores. Finally, just ordered the one off the Home Depot site. Oh well, I'll have it mid-next week.