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How to setup a dfi lanparty ut nf4 sli-d

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Gawil

Registered
Joined
Nov 1, 2011
I have some problems setting up my mb. It shuts down after a minute and then wont boot up until ive waited 10 minutes or so. I have tried clear cmos for 15 hours, tried optimized defaults. It worked with win7 32 bit ultimate until I updated. My psu is a q-tec 650w tripple fan w 20+4 connectors. Cant afford to get a 24 pin. In the sticky guide for this board there was a link to a dfi-street warning post against using 20 pins psu, but that site is down and I havent found any critical post through google.

1. Can I connect the hdd and fd power connectors to the mb for better power?

2. How do i configure my mb? Dont need to overclock it right now.

Im booting with mb, cpu, ram and graphic card now.

EDIT: ITS A LANPARTY UT nF4 Ultra-D

Specs
Lanparty UT nF4 SLI-D
AMD X2 4600+
2 x 1 GB PC3200 DRAM, 400MHz, same brand, orange slots
Gainward 8600 GT PCI-E
Samsung 160JJ
Maxtor 250 GB Diamondmax 10

Thx in advance!
 
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1) You should only plug them into the power supply directly. I'm not aware of any motherboards that have power outputs for other devices. It adds another unnecessary component between the source and the destination.

2) If you aren't going to overclock, leave it at default. You could lower voltage to lower temps, but it will be fine with stock settings.

The power supply you have should be fine if the 20+4 connector you are referring to goes into the same connector. If so, this is the same as a normal 24 pin connector, it just has the option to work with 20 pin and 24 pin motherboards.
 

Suitable for both 24 and 20 pins motherboard power connector
Item number: 14348
That power supply will be a 24 pin type power supply, with 20 + 4 pin plugged into the 24 pin power supply in the correct order end to end.


NOTE: the regular triple fan power supply does not have the 20 + 4 pin setup for working with a 24 pin ATX connector.


Q-TEC 650W Triple Fan 24p

Q-TEC power supplies are very popular because they're so much cheaper than other brands, but, as our testing shows, they're cheap for a good reason.


IF my memory servers me accurately, the Q-TEC and the Be-Quiet power supplies all gave problems with the DFI NF4 motherboards. Be-Quiet brand made some changes 5 or 6 years ago and they became better power supplies. Never heard such said about an improved Q-TEC.

So much for the power supply you are using.

Runs 1 minute and turns off and have to wait 10 mins to restart sounds like something getting hot or perhaps even the power supply is cutting off due to load which makes heat and thus has to cool for 10 mins.

It worked with win7 32 bit ultimate until I updated. << That statement you make in your post confuses me. That seems to say that all was working fine until you updated "something". UPdated what, and then no more working.
 
Thx for the replies!

1. What I meant about the hdd and fd power connectors was: there's a possibility to connect to the mb from the psu. There's one hdd contact and one fd contact on the board. In the manual the hdd connector was recommended when using 2 videocards in a sli configuration. I only use one.

What happened when it wouldnt start up was that I installed 70 updates to the os at once. Shouldnt have done that. Now I have made a clean reinstall. Wasnt that easy to get through the boot and install, constant shut downs, but eventually I was able to reinstall. Strangely enough the time before shut down got longer when I added the hd and dvd drive. With just video card, cpu and ram I just got a few seconds in bios before it shut down.

What I have done in bios sofar:
I set 'halt on' = no errors
Disabled cpu throttling
Lowered temps for cpu, nb and fan 2 shut downs

My most important problem now is to get my rig sta (just shut down) stable. Have set power management in windows to maximum performance; never shut down hdd, display or what else.

Sometimes I can hear one (1) 'tick' in the case and after that the system sometimes shut down. Sometimes I cant write or surf for 10 seconds or so and then all will work again. Have to write fast, will edit with more data

EDIT Nothing runs hot, low temp on cpu and hd, video card, nb and psu arent that hot, have her open so I can feel the components.

Pls bear with my descriptions, am under time preasure:)
 
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OP said:
Strangely enough the time before shut down got longer when I added the hd and dvd drive.

That sounds exactly like a power supply that only begins to put out some power when the +5V rail is loaded some and allowing the +12V rail to put out more power. You may very well be underpowered by the brand power supply you purchased.
 
Maybe.

-> Anyone know if I can safely connect the hd and fd connectors TO the motherboard?
Maybe that can stabilize my system.

-> Can I avoid using the ACPI function? Under 'power management'. Tried disable it when then I couldnt boot.

Status now: have serious booting problems as usual from cold boots. Cant even get into bios right now.
 
Sure you can plug a 4 pin molex coming from the power supply unto the motherboard. Some of the boards depending on when manufactured had one of the pins in the floppy connector on the board backwards so most never ever plugged a floppy power connector from the power supply to the motherboard. It and the 4 pin molex actually powered the same traces on the mobo so never was any use in plugging a 4 pin molex and a floppy power connector to the motherboard. One OR the other with the 4 pin molex always winning out.

Most later operating systems are ACPI aware and should be enabled.
 
Will try to connect the hdd connector.

Managed to get into to windows for a couple of minutes before shutdown. After that I had repeated shut downs all the time. Hadnt even enough for repairs before shut down.

Power supply seems fine though:
ATX +3.3V 3.32V
+5.0V 4.94V
+12.0V 11.63V
+5VSB 4.99V

Battery 3.09V

Temp: cpu=39 pwm=47 chipset=37

Had dram voltage control = 2.8V

Am clearing bios now and try a reinstall.

bios version 6.00pg nvmm 4.054.0811/09/05 = NF4LD406
ir devieces = floppy device and controller = firewire = logon screen = DISABLED
halt on = no errors
hd on sata 1, dvd on sata 2
usb mouse and keyboard = ENABLED
Strangely enough power on via "any key" doesnt work. Have set the jumper for usb support correct.

Anything else to do to get it working?

I hear a click somewhere and then shut down shortly after. Beleive its some power saving stuff. And it seems as win7 demands it. For my needs it just messes everything up.

Mind the language please. -hokie
 
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You say you hear a 'tick' in the case and then shutdown. Well there are no 'relays' on the motherboard or in the power supply so it is not a tick made like that. Some electrical but non-relay type components can make a noise when they are turned off and vibrate in their housing or where attached to the mobo.

I currently have two DFI NF4 boards in use. Am currently typing this on an Ultra-D modded to SLI with an Ocz 600watt PowerStream power supply with 4600+ and the other one uses a 4800+ but do not remember the power supply. No problems but am still using WinXP since they are older motherboards.

Before DFI went out of the consumer mobo business now over a year ago, there were nearly NO posts written to the DFI Club forum about NF4 boards since most were 5 years old when the Forum closed and DFI left consumer mobo business. I still use these two NF4's due to laziness and do not need blazing speed. Just be able to get to net etc.

I know people used Win7 on that board because they made driver packs for the NF4 at NforcersHQ forum site. Many wanted to use raid and Fernando1 made some driver packs until he moved onto other later chipsets and could no longer test on old NF4 setups.

I have really been trying to wake up sleeping brain cells about those old rigs, even though running two of them myself, BUT without issues of turn off and wait 10 mins to restart.

Scratching around in my memory I only had a hazy recollection of a problem with DiamondMax 10 drives that did not have the latest firmware of the day on them giving problems. They would disappear and the systems lock up. You might be faced with a DiamondMaz 10 problem where the drive goes to sleep and the O/S crashes. But you seem to indicate that all power seems turned off and a wait time of 10 mins is needed before you can turn power supply back on and try to boot. That still foremost sounds like a power supply issue. I would borrow some other power supply not as cheap as a Q-TEC and see if the problem persists or remains. If the problem remains try some hard drive other than that old Maxtor drive. You are at the point of "substitution" of parts to find the problem piece or pieces. If you cannot swap out some parts by borrowing or have spare of power supplies to test with and hard drives, then you will lkely not find your problem.
 
Thx for that scratching and memoring RGone!
Gonna replace the psu. How will Corsair VX 550W and Sesonic s12 600W work with my rig?

PS Sry about the language, that word isn't offensive in my surroundings. Will be more careful from now.
 
Sesonic s12 600W work with my rig << That power supply had to be REV 2.0 to work as it had issues with starting those boards. One of them less than 2 or 3 years old should be fine. The Corsair, I am not familiar with at all.
 
I am recalling that many of these boards had a rampaging PMW (PWM?, LOL) that would just lock to skyrocket temps...I worked with mine, put uber cooling on all the hot parts, still it would wig out constantly making thermal shutoff a certainey...the only way I could get around the rampage was to shut down, unplug the PS power cord, hit the start switch on the unit to completely discharge the MB, wait 5 or 10, then plug the PS cord again...I finally just said fudge it and moved onward, the MB is righteous when it runs right, but getting old...

Just some thoughts, good luck..

Laterzzzz...........
 
It's working now, SOLVED

Hi again,
and sorry for not updating. It turned out that it was the power supply. I have now invested in a bequit straightpower 680w; a quality psu with top reviews. I may overclock and try to find the best setup, for fun and learning. Depends on if I think it's worth the time.

Thanks a lot for all support!
 
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