Intel Core i5-2500k OC - Help a Newb (LGA1155, P8Z68-V LX v4105)

[LarmanW]

You'll want the fan on the CPU cooler blowing out, towards the back of the case. Don't think of it as blowing air on specific components, but rather overall flow of air through the case. What are you using to load the CPU? Did we decrease from 70c to 53c under load just by adding case fans? If so that's quite a success! Or are those idle temps that dropped by 5c? That doesn't tell us a whole lot. But switch the fan back and see.

Your motherboard manual suggests placing the memory in the blue slots for 2 DIMMs.

Just going off the guide and reading the manual, here are my suggestions. First have you tried internal PLL overvoltage enabled?

First step I would suggest is to start fresh by clearing the CMOS. You already mentioned that TPU was switched to off, but you could go ahead and cycle the switch once before clearing the CMOS to make sure it's off. (left is off). To clear the CMOS reference section 1.9 page 1-26 in the copy of the manual that I downloaded from the ASUS support page (PDF page 38).

After clearing the CMOS to into advanced and set AI Overclock Tuner to Manual, make sure the BCLK is set to 100. Go ahead and try setting the turbo ratio to 45. Internal PLL Overvoltage enabled. Set CPU voltage to 1.35v. If it only allows you to set an offset voltage, than you can try +0.05 (since your vcore is reading 1.31v in speedfan. You can also go ahead and program your memory speed/timing/voltage per the guide. As was suggested earlier, HWiNFO64 will help us tell how the VRM is doing and probably give a more reliable indication of vcore.

Under CPU Power Management you should be able to disable speed step. You might have to try adjusting both of them. Also enable Load-Line Calibration here.

Over to the advanced tab, CPU Config has a C1, C3 and C6 that you can disable. Another option to disable speed step here, make sure its disabled in both menus.

If that doesn't work, then try disabling turbo mode (in all 3 menus) and setting a manual core ratio either in the CPU config tab or CPU power Management tab or both.

If you get to a point where the PC will not post or will not boot, clear the CMOS and start over with a lower clock. You might have to play around with it a bit.

You can also witch this video,

, but ignore everything he says about BCLK.

The idle temp dropped from 58c to ~52c with the added fans. I was wrong about the rear fan being reversed. Tried changing the CoolerMaster to opposite side and temps went back up to about 56c, so I'll switch that back. I'll take some time and DL the manual to read about the CMOS and PLL but I really appreciate your tips. Thank you.

 

[trents]

Have you tried redoing the thermal paste and remounting the cooler? Clean the two surfaces with alcohol and place a BB to Pea-sized blob in the middle of the CPU. Don't try to spread it. Then mount the cooler and tighten the mount screws in an "X" pattern one turn at a time. Let the clamping pressure spread the paste.

 

[Zerileous]

You want the rear fan blowing air out. You want the fan on the CPU cooler mounted on the side with the memory but pushing air towards the back of the case through the cooler.

Was it originally set up with the rear fan blowing in and the CPU cooler fan blowing against that? You can also attach one of the fans from your kit to the CPU cooler opposite the one that came with it (just make sure they're both facing towards the back of the case).

I agree its probably a good idea to re-mount the CPU cooler. When you take it off take pictures of the CPU and the cooler!

 

[trents]

And attach the pics with the built in forum tool which can be accessed by clicking on the "Go Advanced" button at the lower right corner of any new post window. Then look for "Manage Attachments when the next screen opens.

 

[LarmanW]

Have you tried redoing the thermal paste and remounting the cooler? Clean the two surfaces with alcohol and place a BB to Pea-sized blob in the middle of the CPU. Don't try to spread it. Then mount the cooler and tighten the mount screws in an "X" pattern one turn at a time. Let the clamping pressure spread the paste.

Well ... I think I F#$%^D my CPU. I had put way too much paste on, so I tried cleaning it out but could not get in the little crevices so I popped the springlock and took out the chip and did my worst to clean it up with alcohol and paper towels but still could not get it all out. Long story short, turning the power on, the fans blow but nothing else happens. So at this point, I think that I need a new MB and CPU. Is that the most likely scenario? I will add some photos after a bit just to confirm what a mess I made of it. Any suggestions for currently available MB and CPU that will fit in the midsize tower? Not a gamer but I do like to have some power when doing video editing.

 

[LarmanW]

You want the rear fan blowing air out. You want the fan on the CPU cooler mounted on the side with the memory but pushing air towards the back of the case through the cooler.

Was it originally set up with the rear fan blowing in and the CPU cooler fan blowing against that? You can also attach one of the fans from your kit to the CPU cooler opposite the one that came with it (just make sure they're both facing towards the back of the case).

I agree its probably a good idea to re-mount the CPU cooler. When you take it off take pictures of the CPU and the cooler!

Like I said to trents ... I think that I need a new MB and CPU after messing it up. Any suggestions on what is currently available and would fit in a mid sized tower?

 

[trents]

LGA sockets are very difficult to clean because the pin pads are so fragile. If you snag one with a tissue or a cloth they are toast. Yep, you had way, way too much paste applied. What brand paste were you using?


Now is a good time to upgrade with more modern components.

 

[LarmanW]

LGA sockets are very difficult to clean because the pin pads are so fragile. If you snag one with a tissue or a cloth they are toast. Yep, you had way, way too much paste applied. What brand paste were you using?

It was from StarTech.com Some unbranded silicone cooler paste. Prior to that was what came with the Cooler Master. So, any suggestions to what Motherboards might work in my case? I'll post a photo of what's in there now.

 

[trents]

Any socket 1155 (aka, H2) should work with that CPU and fit in that case since the case looks to be a mid or full tower case. If you want to overclock the CPU then I would go for a "Z77" class motherboard. They will support Sandy Bridge. Like this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/ASRock-Z77...354667&hash=item2d08550370:g:bOoAAOSw32Fei~0D and it comes with 16gb of RAM.

Of course, you most certainly will be limited to a used unit so be careful:
1. Make sure the motherboard comes with the I/O shield. A lot of seemingly good buys are for boards without the I/O shield unless that is, it is the same board you are replacing.
2. Do not buy one that came out of a Dell, HP, Compaq, Lenovo, ect. or any mass produced computer. Their connectors are proprietary. Get an aftermarket board.

I still think it's a good time to go modern.

 

[Zerileous]

If you've already been into the socket then it's probably in bad shape. If not you can try using alcohol and a syringe to flush it out without touching the pins at all. If you touch the pins the socket will probably be damaged. The CPU should be fine, but the socket is in trouble. In the future, it's always good to remove a cooler when the paste is warm because it's easier to remove, but always leave the CPU socketed until the paste cools so it doesn't flow into the socket like that. Also too much, but that can be easy to do.

Do you have a budget? I'm going to assume it's low and give you some cheep options.
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Stealth-Cooler/dp/B07XTQZJ28 -$85 (for those concerned, it's important to note this is a new 1600AF part, on 12nm Zen+ silicon but clocked lower than the 2600).
https://www.amazon.com/ASRock-MicroATX-Motherboard-B450M-PRO4/dp/B07FVYKFXF -$75
https://www.amazon.com/G-Skill-288-Pin-PC4-25600-CL16-18-18-38-F4-3200C16D-16GIS/dp/B08176M1KG -$73
Total: $233 (could shave about $30 off going with a cheaper board and slower ram, or getting a combo deal).
Depending on when you bought your cooler, it came with a mount for the new CPU. If not, they can be purchased after market, but since Zen2, cooler master hasn't been able to keep up with demand so they've been out of stock.

It looks like replacing your motherboard will cost around $100 on the auction site, I have to say that's a lot of money to spend on hardware that old, especially when we're not sure it work well.

 

[trents]

Some more but they wouldn't be good overclockers:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-Desk...sh=item216ca906ed:g:NOAAAOSwdQFePFmd&LH_BIN=1

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-DH77...5y9dX-Xe:sc:USPSPriority!98531!US!-1&LH_BIN=1

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-DB75...sh=item23d4b8c824:g:2VIAAOSw34Fej13W&LH_BIN=1

 

[LarmanW]

Any socket 1155 (aka, H2) should work with that CPU and fit in that case since the case looks to be a mid or full tower case. If you want to overclock the CPU then I would go for a "Z77" class motherboard. They will support Sandy Bridge. Like this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/ASRock-Z77...354667&hash=item2d08550370:g:bOoAAOSw32Fei~0D and it comes with 16gb of RAM.

Of course, you most certainly will be limited to a used unit so be careful:
1. Make sure the motherboard comes with the I/O shield. A lot of seemingly good buys are for boards without the I/O shield unless that is, it is the same board you are replacing.
2. Do not buy one that came out of a Dell, HP, Compaq, Lenovo, ect. or any mass produced computer. Their connectors are proprietary. Get an aftermarket board.

I still think it's a good time to go modern.

I have not been up on what's new since I bought the old one. What would be considered 'modern' and would it fit with some of my older components? The only one that I am pretty set on is having USB 2.0 since I have an old digital multitrack recorder that won't work on USB 3.*

As long as it can support my video editing, audio interface via USB 2.0 I think it would be OK. Maybe the modern boards are faster without overclocking? I am kind of hoping that I can use what is still kicking in my current box though if I can modernize it.

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If you've already been into the socket then it's probably in bad shape. If not you can try using alcohol and a syringe to flush it out without touching the pins at all. If you touch the pins the socket will probably be damaged. The CPU should be fine, but the socket is in trouble. In the future, it's always good to remove a cooler when the paste is warm because it's easier to remove, but always leave the CPU socketed until the paste cools so it doesn't flow into the socket like that. Also too much, but that can be easy to do.

Do you have a budget? I'm going to assume it's low and give you some cheep options.
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Stealth-Cooler/dp/B07XTQZJ28 -$85 (for those concerned, it's important to note this is a new 1600AF part, on 12nm Zen+ silicon but clocked lower than the 2600).
https://www.amazon.com/ASRock-MicroATX-Motherboard-B450M-PRO4/dp/B07FVYKFXF -$75
https://www.amazon.com/G-Skill-288-Pin-PC4-25600-CL16-18-18-38-F4-3200C16D-16GIS/dp/B08176M1KG -$73
Total: $233 (could shave about $30 off going with a cheaper board and slower ram, or getting a combo deal).
Depending on when you bought your cooler, it came with a mount for the new CPU. If not, they can be purchased after market, but since Zen2, cooler master hasn't been able to keep up with demand so they've been out of stock.

It looks like replacing your motherboard will cost around $100 on the auction site, I have to say that's a lot of money to spend on hardware that old, especially when we're not sure it work well.

Let's just say that my budget is flexible but I would like to get it right. If I need to upgrade other parts to make something suitable, modern and reasonably fast that's what I would be willing to do. It would help me keep busy during the pandemic.
Looking to buy new, authentic parts, not refurbs or take-offs.

 

[trents]

Most certainly, much modern CPU/motherboard/memory technology without overclocking is going to be faster than what you have now. That part is easy to figure. Your CPU is second generation Intel. Processors tend to add about 5-10% of performance with each new generation. For instance, in the desktop segment we are now on the 9th generation of Intel CPUs and the 10th generation will likely debut in the next few months. So a 9th generation i5 will be much faster than your second gen i5.

But realize that we are talking not only about a motherboard upgrade but a CPU and memory upgrade as well. Your CPU and memory will not be compatible with newer motherboards. The sockets and chipsets are different.

Have you actually tried running your old digital multitrack recorder in a USB 3 port. It should work. USB 3 is backwards compatible with USB 2 and USB 1. That's how those technologies work.

Are you in the USA? We need to know that before recommending components because vendors and prices and availability are not the same internationally.

What operating system are you currently running?

What is the make, model and wattage of your PSU? How old is it. Please put this information in your Signature.

 

[LarmanW]

Most certainly, much modern CPU/motherboard/memory technology without overclocking is going to be faster than what you have now. That part is easy to figure. Your CPU is second generation Intel. Processors tend to add about 5-10% of performance with each new generation. For instance, in the desktop segment we are now on the 9th generation of Intel CPUs and the 10th generation will likely debut in the next few months. So a 9th generation i5 will be much faster than your second gen i5.

But realize that we are talking not only about a motherboard upgrade but a CPU and memory upgrade as well. Your CPU and memory will not be compatible with newer motherboards. The sockets and chipsets are different.

Have you actually tried running your old digital multitrack recorder in a USB 3 port. It should work. USB 3 is backwards compatible with USB 2 and USB 1. That's how those technologies work.

Are you in the USA? We need to know that before recommending components because vendors and prices and availability are not the same internationally.

What operating system are you currently running?

What is the make, model and wattage of your PSU? How old is it. Please put this information in your Signature.

I am in BC, Canada, not sure why it doesn't show below my handle. Running Windows 10 Pro. Power Supply, now in my signature, is same vintage as the rest, sometime in 2013, so probably it is likely needing an upgrade or replacement. I know it has huge braided cables coming out of it. Do newer ones streamline those any?

I have tried the multitrack on other laptops with USB 3.0 but no go. It is a Roland Boss BR-600 and it is a well documented 'feature', which kind of sucks. The firmware has not been updated (nor will it be) since 2011 or so, if I recall. I also tried cheating with a USB 2.0 hub but no go. But that is just a distraction for now until I get this current situation fixed.

So, I would be needing, I am guessing, a MB, CPU, RAM and probably a power supply. All, if possible, to fit in my case. Also, not sure about my video card (NVidea GeForce GTX 550Ti) if it would fit on a modern board or are the new MBs integrated video at par or better? Noticed some of the MB's for 1155 socket don't have many USB ports like my current dead board which had 6 on the back and 2 in front.

 

[trents]

For what you want to do with you system (video editing) here is a modern starter system. AMD Ryzen is the way to go these days. This will blow the doors off your present system as it is but if you want to spend more then we can plug in some higher performance parts such as CPU with more cores and/or more memory.

$79.99 – Motherboard https://www.amazon.com/MSI-ProSerie...&keywords=MSI+b450+mATX&qid=1586573422&sr=8-6

$174.99 – CPU https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-36...hild=1&keywords=R5+3600&qid=1586573527&sr=8-1

$84.99 – RAM https://www.amazon.com/G-Skill-RipJ...rds=16gb+3600mhz+gskill&qid=1586573640&sr=8-2

$64.99 after rebate – PSU https://www.newegg.com/antec-zen-ne600g-600w/p/N82E16817371126

$48.99 – good aftermarket CPU cooler https://www.amazon.com/Mugen-Rev-CP...d=1&keywords=Scythe+cpu&qid=1586574796&sr=8-2

$109.99 – 1TB Solid State Digital PCie system drive https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1T...ld=1&keywords=1tb+nvme&qid=1586574994&sr=8-19

$79.00 - Windows 10 Pro

Pre tax total in US$- $642.94 (no shipping costs for Amazon Prime members)

 

[LarmanW]

For what you want to do with you system (video editing) here is a modern starter system. AMD Ryzen is the way to go these days. This will blow the doors off your present system as it is but if you want to spend more then we can plug in some higher performance parts such as CPU with more cores and more memory.

$79.99 – Motherboard https://www.amazon.com/MSI-ProSerie...&keywords=MSI+b450+mATX&qid=1586573422&sr=8-6

$174.99 – CPU https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-36...hild=1&keywords=R5+3600&qid=1586573527&sr=8-1

$84.99 – RAM https://www.amazon.com/G-Skill-RipJ...rds=16gb+3600mhz+gskill&qid=1586573640&sr=8-2

$64.99 after rebate – PSU https://www.newegg.com/antec-zen-ne600g-600w/p/N82E16817371126

$48.99 – good aftermarket CPU cooler https://www.amazon.com/Mugen-Rev-CP...d=1&keywords=Scythe+cpu&qid=1586574796&sr=8-2

$109.99 – 1TB Solid State Digital PCie system drive https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1T...ld=1&keywords=1tb+nvme&qid=1586574994&sr=8-19

Pre tax total in US$ not including shipping - $563.94

All that seems pretty good but not sure about the cooler fan and whether it would fit in my mid tower. It looks like I could still add my SATA HDD to the MB in your link. That would enable me to get rid of one of my external drives (maybe). I am, however, a bit bummed about not having a USB 2.0 port. Are those JUSB1, 2 and 3 jumpers at the bottom end of the MB that can be set to somehow add a USB 2.0?

Looking at the specs at MSI site: https://ca.msi.com/Motherboard/B450M-PRO-VDH-MAX/Specification, it actually looks like it does have 8 USB 2.0 ports (4 rear, 4 front) but I don't see the sockets in their photo on the Amazon link. Here's detail from MSI: "8 x USB 2.0 (High-speed USB) ports (4 ports on the back panel, 4 ports available through the internal USB connectors)" . I'm not sure what that means.

 

[trents]

Look at the pic I added. That motherboard has 4 USB 2.0 ports.

I am fairly certain the cooler will fit in your case. It is only 154.5 mm tall. You case is 7.9" wide. I'm pretty sure it will fit. The CPU comes with an OEM cooler that would barely be sufficient, might be noisy under load and may cause the CPU to throttle some under load. That's why I'm recommending a good aftermarket cooler.

Internal USB connectors are for USB 2.0 case front panel cables. The case has USB 2.0 ports on the front or top and cables run back from those ports to plug into the motherboard. Usually along the bottom edge.

 

[LarmanW]

Look at the pic I added. That motherboard has 4 USB 2.0 ports.

I am fairly certain the cooler will fit in your case. It is only 154.5 mm tall. You case is 7.9" wide. I'm pretty sure it will fit. The CPU comes with an OEM cooler that would barely be sufficient, might be noisy under load and may cause the CPU to throttle some under load. That's why I'm recommending a good aftermarket cooler.

Internal USB connectors are for USB 2.0 case front panel cables. The case has USB 2.0 ports on the front or top and cables run back from those ports to plug into the motherboard. Usually along the bottom edge.

Great, thanks trents. I am very impressed by how fast you can throw detailed replies back at me. I'll set down tomorrow and see what I can get ordered online.

 

[trents]

Let me make one change in the parts list as it looks like the motherboard, according website info, may not support 3600 mhz memory. So lets go with 3200 mhz and approximately same price I believe: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Veng...keywords=DDR4+16gb+3200&qid=1586579354&sr=8-2

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No, this is better for $74.99 US: https://www.newegg.com/g-skill-16gb-288-pin-ddr4-sdram/p/N82E16820231941 GSkill has a good reputation for being compatible with the Ryzen platform.

Also, notice that to my original components list I added Windows 10 Pro in case you don't have the ability to reinstall what you already have been using. If you have the product key and it was a retail version you should not need to buy a new copy but you would need to call Microsoft and tell them you had to replace the motherboard, which is actually true. Activation doesn't carry over when you change the motherboard.

Will this be your first build from scratch?

 

[LarmanW]

Let me make one change in the parts list as it looks like the motherboard, according website info, may not support 3600 mhz memory. So lets go with 3200 mhz and approximately same price I believe: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Veng...keywords=DDR4+16gb+3200&qid=1586579354&sr=8-2

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Will this be your first build from scratch?

Yes first time. I have done many parts swaps over the years but never MB, CPU, etc. Was wondering about the Windows ... yes, I'll likely need to acquire that as well since my dead box came with Windows 7 which then was a free upgrade to 10.