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ITS ALIVE!! first water upgrade pics.

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:rofl: Thank goodness there was a page 2 to clarify of said comments from page 1. Sheesh, these days I've seen and heard all kinds of things. Earth is spot on.
 
you can see the third and last rad installed now,
also how **** the tubing has become in such a short time....

i intend to replace the tubes, and the barbs with quick disconnects
can you guys recommend good ones?

also the mcp 655 pump is rated at 50 psi, ive seen some quick disconnects rated only at 25 psi

also, as for why im s till linking the photos, it seems my camera REFUSES to go under 3 or 2.7 MB a photo, ill keep playing with the danm settings
last time i tried to do them with the forums converter it was choosy about it..


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oh!
currently idling @ 25c gpu side and 22c cpu side
the 9 rad fans are all on mobo control and idle at 20% speed (630 rpm)
and go to 100% (1560 rpm) at cpu temp threshold of 31c
pretty much only when i boot up a game

the other 2 chassis fans idle at 40% (1030 rpm & 750 rpm)
or OFF (0 rpm) in low power mode (1.5ghz cpu)
those blow onto my hdd rack, northbridge and vrms


temps for gpu are like 36-38 in game as seen from my nvidia shadow play

https://www.youtube.com/user/koreanbeater/videos
(btw, No, i do not roam the streets beating down the Koreans, name was first thought up to mess with a Korean friend of mine who did not know it was me at the time
was just too lazy to create a second youtube acct later and kept using it)
 
wow, i don't think i've ever seen tubes get so dirty so fast... how well did you wash out the rads? any boiling water with soap?

was it just distilled water in the loop? how does your ek block look?

i was in your boat (accept i had to pay for my third triple rad:( ) with 3 triple 120mm rads and decided to build it's own rad/pump/res case. i was going to link to my old thread but as stated in this thread 3rd party photo hosts ditch your pictures :( hopefully i still have them.

here is a link to the best picture i have ATM LINK

but anyhow, i haven't cleaned my loop in over 2.5-3 years and the tubes are still clear from what i can tell. i put dye in the system to see the long term effects.
 
i poured near boiling temp water into each rad, held it with pot holders and shook them till i couldnt breathe,
drained em out and repeated with each rad about 3 times
at that time everything was coming out clean.

whats in the loop is just pt nuke a silver kill coil the dd dreamflex tubing and distiled water

im basically just super pissed / disapointed
seriously its been like a month or so if i wanted to do math id just scroll up and look at the date if the post where i had the build log photos till now

i want to trash all the tubes and fittings,
can you suggest a good setup for quick disconects and new tube?
ill nevr buy this brand of tube again


also in your photo i see 2 pumps connected *** to mouth,
so you need to mod them to do that, ?
it makes me think that they would need to be in sync or else they would just fight each other ???
 
i poured near boiling temp water into each rad, held it with pot holders and shook them till i couldnt breathe,
drained em out and repeated with each rad about 3 times
at that time everything was coming out clean.

whats in the loop is just pt nuke a silver kill coil the dd dreamflex tubing and distiled water

im basically just super pissed / disapointed
seriously its been like a month or so if i wanted to do math id just scroll up and look at the date if the post where i had the build log photos till now

i want to trash all the tubes and fittings,
can you suggest a good setup for quick disconects and new tube?
ill nevr buy this brand of tube again


also in your photo i see 2 pumps connected *** to mouth,
so you need to mod them to do that, ?
it makes me think that they would need to be in sync or else they would just fight each other ???

odd then unless that tubing is reacting with the pt nuke or silver. the tubing i use is masterkleer and i can't seem to find it for sale anymore. i'm going to be redoing my loop with my new build and starting a thread on it once i get it going. i plan on ordering 25 feet of Durelene PVC tubing 7/16" since i can't find the masterkleer anymore. the fittings i used are bitspower BP-WTP-C01 for 1/2" tubing with 7/16" ID tubing.

unless things have changed in the last 5 years quick disconnects are not only expensive, but reduce flow enough that i wouldn't use more then 2. i was going to use them so i could disconnect the cooling tower from the pc, but it would have been $50 or more. you can see in the picture i posted i used 1/2" copper unions and soldered some copper into them for barbs.

my pumps are in series, one feeds the other. pumps in series give the same water flow but double the head pressure, pumps in parallel double the speed but provide the same head pressure. one of the pumps is a vario, the other is not. as a result i have the vario set to 4 to match the non vario. i just have a short piece of tubing between them, nothing special.

it's possible one of them has failed as i haven't checked them for a long time but my temps are good enough. though because the rads are covered in dust/dirt they have gone up.
 
i use all 1/2' tube and barbs, but your saying the other fittings will restrict that huh?
hm, diddnt know that.
my main reason for wanting them,
is that if i have to swap stuff out or keep draining it like this for the buildup of gunk it would make like atad easier...

i totally intend to fully upgrade when intel releases thse 8 core hyperthreaded unlocked cpus
so tahtll be a new mobo cpu ram and gpu for my system,
hell might as well give this one to a friend at that point i guess
 
I like this set up. To blow air onto something is to cool it. To pull air through something cools it less. Perhaps stuff some pusher fans under that 120.3??

Nice rig. Can't wait to see it completed!
 
i use all 1/2' tube and barbs, but your saying the other fittings will restrict that huh?
hm, diddnt know that.
my main reason for wanting them,
is that if i have to swap stuff out or keep draining it like this for the buildup of gunk it would make like atad easier...

i totally intend to fully upgrade when intel releases thse 8 core hyperthreaded unlocked cpus
so tahtll be a new mobo cpu ram and gpu for my system,
hell might as well give this one to a friend at that point i guess

can i be your friend lol

here is a review of some quick disconnects from 2013, http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/07/02/2013-quick-disconnect-roundup/
 
I like this set up. To blow air onto something is to cool it. To pull air through something cools it less. Perhaps stuff some pusher fans under that 120.3??

Nice rig. Can't wait to see it completed!


v http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553002

ive got 3x 120by3 rads installed with 3 COUGAR CF-V12HP each in pull

v http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553006

the goal of mine here was low temps and uuber silence.

at the 20% idle rate i cant hear teh cougars
but i can hear a high pitched pump whine
(were talking in perfect silence as i lie there trying to sleep)

sadly newegg would not let me order more than 5 of each, so i ended up with 5 in one color and 4 in another, orange and black

even one single 120mm by3x rad would have been enough for the parts in my system, (i5-2500k +gtx670msi)
but why not have two, or three lol they were like 18 bucks figured id future proof the raddage

you guys can see the horrible wireing all everywhere, the only idea ive had about that is to maybe nip a small hole in the case in a few points and route the wires through that and add more pwm exteneions to make it more doable invisable


ps
Spawn-Inc
totally can be friends
 
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When it comes to rad fans I would advise taking a look at this. Great expert reviews and benchmarks.

These days the best bang for the buck are the Helix 120s by Swiftech and the premium brands are AP-15s (aren't made anymore) and the Noiseblocker e-Loops B12s. Have heard many great things about any of those fans listed and I myself use 9 helix 120 PWM. The other fans are not bad but not as silent as these guy. It's not about CFM but about static pressure as well as FPI.

As for the tubing, these days PrimoChill Advanced LRT is the king of the hill atm. Great reviews and no complaints. They learned from their passed and I believe they deserve the credit this time around. Alot of other tubing will cloud quickly and or release plasticize which can be very messy especially for the thermal channels on the blocks let alone the pump, rads and everything else in the loop. I think this might be the case here.

If you're going to be changing gear quite often and in need a few QDCs than I would advise on either Koolance's or Swiftechs. I have used quite a few Koolance's and use one atm for draining purposes. Sure they add restriction but so do angle fittings etc. You shouldn't worry as long as you have a strong pump and your loop is in the 1.0GPM-1.5GPM threshold. If you're using the QDC's as a drainage at the lowest point of the loop than I would grab 2 pairs. You could also grab a typical drainage line and never have the need to buy QDCs to disconnect the loop.

Bitspower is my choice when it comes to compression fittings but it also comes in a premium price. Barbs are fine but I would use some metal clamps for the added security.

Alot of great H20 gear out these days compared to years ago. Innovation and creativity is very noticeable and more affordable. Martin's liquid lab is a great place to go to for part reviews. Anything newer or recent might have to wait.

Nice CPU block btw. :D
 
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strangely looking in the reservoir I see nothing it's as clear as the day it was made
 
Dang I've never seen tubing go bad that fast, unless you have coloring in it. I thought is was tiny bubbles/foam-up that was trapped.

I had something similar happen after about a week of setting up my H20. I come to find out it was tiny bubbles that were still in the system trapped and was producing foam. Once the system was completely bled, it was clear as day.


Very unique build there OP. I like how you fabricated your own rad mounts for the 3 rads ;)
 
the corsair 600t white,
just diddnt look to raddable to me, i have loads of hard drives so i was not willing to remove the hdd cage like you see in most peoples builds
i have seen them cut the top to fit a single 120 x3 rad up at the top b4, and tht does look pretty neat
but the way my top is,
i can just press down on it and it will unlock and come off click click

i stuck the whole thing on my bathroom scale, 55lbs
 
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