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Lapping + Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra + h110i GT

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Lapping not worth it... You void the warranty on the CPU (bad for resell value) for a couple of degrees that won't allow any higher clocks anyway... Different story on IvyBridges/haswells/Skylakes with de-lidding though.
 
Tír na nÓg said:
Lapping not worth it... You void the warranty on the CPU (bad for resell value) for a couple of degrees that won't allow any higher clocks anyway...
Click to expand...

Lapping + Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra + h110i GT. The combination is worth a couple hours work even if i don't delid, in total it should drop around ~10c from what i read in other threads and reviews. IF i did the delid i would drop a bit more but again don't have the gear to try it (or the confidence to use a blowtorch on a 8370 (i bought a 8320 from Amazon they sent me this one, talk about luck)).

Never cared about warranty and as i said back in the thread, when i trade it for something better is going to a family member so it will be a benefit for him as well.
 
Kenrou;7866518 or the confidence to use a blowtorch on a 8370 . [/QUOTE said:
again not trying to push you ( well maybe a little, just cuz I think deliding is awesome) but a blowtorch killed mine. Solder is holding it there right? heat it with a soldering iron! :) Also you will need desoldering wick to remove the rest of the solder once you get the IHS to separate. Much easier to lap the IHS when its been removed. keep in mine Ive killed 2 chips Also Ill stop spamming about it, Im just trying to point out how easy the process can be. Anyone catch the videos about the vice method? great for non soldered chips and as simple as it gets
Click to expand...
 
I have yes, but problem here would be to re-solder or glue the damned thing back together, Intel boards afaik have clamps to hold the CPU in place, my CHV doesn't :(
 
Kenrou said:
I have yes, but problem here would be to re-solder or glue the damned thing back together, Intel boards afaik have clamps to hold the CPU in place, my CHV doesn't :(
Click to expand...

Personally i would think you could skip it and the cooler would hold it in place, but even so Ive read reports of being able to reseal. Sorry I dont remeber what they used. Alternatively you could just leave the old glue in place and it will fit back together and provide a little bit of grip (while still being removable years later). Apparently there is a (unconfirmed) possibility that the liquid metal wiill become a permanent solution under the ihs.
 
I know I'm a couple days late to the party but I wouldn't de-lid that CPU unless you have some practice first. AMD has been soldered on for a while so many old "cheap" chips out there. The FX has many little resistors just inside the lid that can easily be dislodged with a razor if you don't know what you're doing. Cutting the PCB is another sure fire way to kill it.
The lapping is a waste of time IMO nor "real" gains to be had from what I have seen so far is the FX lid is slightly concave and most coolers slightly convex. If you remove your cooler and it appears as if it is only applying pressure in the centre then it may be worth it but lapping isn't the answer in every situation.
 
Johan45 said:
The FX has many little resistors just inside the lid that can easily be dislodged with a razor if you don't know what you're doing. Cutting the PCB is another sure fire way to kill it.
Click to expand...

can be done with a and old credit card my good man. The solder is another story though. I killed the first Phenom I tried with the razor, the next one went splendidly with the credit card, but I killed it with heat when trying to melt the solder. Once again, Im ot really pushing, just trying to say that it is "safe-ish" to do. The vice method works excellently (Ive heard and seen on youtube) but I can personally vouch for the credit card working. I will try again someday, but for now I cant gamble on losing my chip *again*, but I am fully confident that I can sucessfully melt the solder without frying the chip this next time. After that the real challenge is cleaning all the old solder off... desoldering wick is probably the best. Ive read and seen accounts of people just using a razor to scrape it off, but I am dubious about doing that.

I did find a DIY solution for wick. Take a heavy guage speaker wire -> fan it out -> dip it in soldering flux -> heat the solder ad run the wire.flux thing through it. The old solder will bond to the flux and lift off of the die. when your wire is spent, cut the end of/rinse and repeat.


Let me repeat, Ive killed two chips. I killed those two chips with lack of experience though. Be careful and you might be able to pull of a nice delid. Also it is much easier to lap the IHS when it is off the die. You dont risk bending the pins then :)
 
Lapping was worth it in the days of the old concave IHS'. I haven't seen many people do that these days with good reason. Here is to hoping you reach your 10C, but I would expect more along the lines of 3-5C (with a lot of that coming from the TIM itself). Id like to see some before and after screenshots though (empircal testing).

Good luck!
 
Last edited:
Johan45 said:
I know it can be done, I've done it http://www.overclockers.com/forums/...Putzen-Round?p=7696284&viewfull=1#post7696284
I just wanted to point out that the FX is different take a look and see how close those things are to the glue. It wouldn't matter what you used to cut the glue you could still knock them loose. http://classicplatforms.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=200&t=8680
Click to expand...

whoooo doggie! those are close to the glue!!

I still think I could do it... send me a 9590 and Ill show you :) Seriously though I stand by what I said. I AM less confident though. The thing with the credit card is that you can feel what you are hitting without causing damage. I am less confident in good results though, and definately see what you mean. I cannot belive they are so close to the glue! I imagine the glue is heated when they lay it down. Imagine the risk of the heat contact or if there glue spreads just a little to much. Crazy computer guys
 
I have often thought that the IHS must be the hot part. A stip of glue and a blob of solder with the hot IHS pressed down onto it to seal it. If the whole board was heated the little bits on there would float away, pins would fall off etc...
 
Ive actually discussed this with others before and the best Ive heard about it is that its a) done mechanically and b) done with something like flowsoldering. They would lay down the glue and solder while they were still hot and use a machine to slame the IHS down before it cools. All happens in the blink of an eye with computer precision is what Ive been told. Its all greek to me, but I was shot down when I suggested that the IHS was heated. The thought was that you couldnt do it that way unless you had an immediate way to cool it. Otherwise the lingering heat would possible damage the chip. Where was this field trip when I was a kid?
 
Yeah....THAT field trip woulda been better than going to the ButterKrust bread factory *though, that bread was awesome* *it's closed now, kinda like the Pearl Brewery*
Anyway.....just need to secure the chip on a heavy base...attach something to the cover with force pulling vertically......and weaken the glue its attached to...

Or heck, knowing me....get a dremel w/ sanding disk, thin the edges, peel off the top like the top of a can, and then remove the sides carefully xD
Might try it out if I can get my hands on a bunch of dead chips just for practice.
Never know whats doable until ya try.
 
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