• Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!

Meh Werk Log (First WC Rig)

Overclockers is supported by our readers. When you click a link to make a purchase, we may earn a commission. Learn More.
PLAN: I'm too lazy to build an external enclosure, and the head on the Via 1300 is pretty poor, so I want to keep the lines a little shorter. So I decided on putting it all internal.

Perhaps the next step will be external, but for now...

I'm selling the Black Ice Micro that I thought about using, and I want to use a Pro, I just need to find one. I'm going to cut a 120mm hole in the top and mount the Rad and Fan there. I'll make a schematic, or maybe not. my photoshop skillz are pretty dimunitive these days, and I lost Autocad with the dead hard drive.

Parts (at this time)
Via Aqua 1300
Home Depot vinyl hosing (10')
D-Tek Spir@l
Black Ice Pro
 
more more more more.

went to the depot, got barbs for Via (fit excellently) However, there was a tiny crack in the top outlet, and it bleeds. slightly, but barely. Is there any reason I can't use superglue to close this? Would it degrade and mush? I set it up in the sink/tub and ran for about 10 minutes, the loop of pump-block-tee worked out fine, I need to get the rad tho.

layout-with-micro.jpg

Black ice micro for illustration only.

bathtub-setup.jpg

de-blublefying
 
Re: radiator

rahssan said:
where are you going to put that radiator at in your case

the radiator is going on the top, but through a change in plans, I will be using a Black Ice Pro.
 
Daegon said:
Is there any reason I can't use superglue to close this?

I wouldn't use super glue. I would go for something a little more potent like epoxy. I have some 2-part stuff made by Devcon that comes in a syringe. It says it holds 2 tons so I would trust that more than super glue. Of course check the labels on the epoxy you get to make sure it's ok to use for constant contact with water. Some don't like it.
 
I believe I have some plumber's goop around somewhere. that'd be perfect i just have to find it.

I could mos def use some epoxy here, in a big way, i'm going to need to epoxy in these barbs, there is a teensy bit of leakage. Do you have any suggestions?
 
is the Tline ok there?

Id think itd be a bit ineffective at bleeding with it being at the lowest point in the loop..
 
twas shifted, its not even connected right now, that's just for testing. the t line is going to be at the bottom of the case..... good point. any other suggestions for mounting positions?

and I secured a modded innovatek rad (120mm) that'll go in the roof, as well as a compunurse dual temp reader probe.

In other news, I believe my seal problems have been fixed!
My dad was working on putting in a new dryer (gas) and he was using this crazy pink tape plastic stuff on all the threads. to prevent, get this, leakage of gas. well.... guess what.... it works perfectly for water too! so now i have a sealed via! the crack is above the threads, so there is no problem with it now. but I did superglue it closed, after putting in the original barb, overtightening it (so the crack would open) and then removing the barb so it didn't get glued in.

This is gonna be so much fun!
 
what was he using it for? they ahve different tipes for PVC or for copper. and Im not sure Id use it on barbs.

for threaded stuff itll work great(though use the PVC stuff for PVC, not copper, I think it works differently)

for barbs it wont be too strong, stronger than not there, but its meant for a tight seal like threads, it doesnt have much strength in a space filling/sealing situation.
 
Sounds like you're talking about Teflon tape - it's used for threaded seals for gasses, but I imagine it wouldn't work nearly as well for liquids.
 
I was using the teflon tape on the threads for the barbs.. i'll post a pic when i get home. The type my dad was using was for gas or oil. since gas is molecularly smaller, it should have no problem working with water. The leaks were in the threading going into and out of the pump, probably from the switch of the threaded barbs. So I went ahead and used the teflon tape, i'll test for watertightness when i get home.

Via note: After filling the loop when the pump was not submerged, the pump would not start, but once I submerged the pump and disconnected the intake, It started fine.

I've come to a decision. If after sealing with epoxy/goop/whatever you guys suggest, i still have leakage of any kind, or actually any problems with the Via, I'm ditching it for another pump. (suggestions?)

I'm going to a friends house on sunday and finishing the rig.

hm... lets go check on those orders...
 
If the Via doesn't start, just hit it a couple of times. It'll turn over, sometimes it just gets hung up I guess. Also did you do the silent mod?
 
Ok, thanks for the tip. Ive found it starts best submerged, so as long as i'm testing, I'll start it submerged, its also a good way to get the tubes filled, then I emptied the tub and let it run... actually its running right now, lets see if i've got leakage.

I put the teflon tape on practically every seal. i'm also going to epoxy shut everything. silicone on the removable front tho, I might want to take it apart some day.



I have not yet done the mod, its not discernable, so long as its on a sock or something well padded.. bad vibrations, but we will deal with that (perhaps suspended)
 
I haven't used the Spiral waterblock before, but shouldn't the center barb be used as the water inlet? This would allow the cool incoming water to hit the center of the CPU first, and then move outwards to the edge of the CPU. Otherwise, looks very good.
 
Back