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Need advice for buying a CPU on BUDGET

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I be using Xigmatek 600W 80+ BRONZE i guess, its within my budget ,i dont plan to go over 300 bucks , which others all are, thats why i planning to get this, but seriously 500 W its enough = 0 ?

But i dont do OC well i guess its enough , u be surprise im using a Cooler Master Xtreme 500 W now lol not even a 80+ and its only producing 70 % real power ,with a HD 5830 Xtreme 1GB and a Intel Quad Q8200 2.33.

For the HDD i think i will stick with a 500GB at the moment , its more than enough for now , because i currently only use 320 GB and im able to manage. Later i will add more, because 1 TB its over 300 , i can get 500 GB for only 200

I give u a break down on my full build.

H77 Mobo
I5 3450
1X HD 7850
1 X WD 500 GB HDD
1 X Corsair DDR 3 RAM 4GB
1 X DVD ROM
1 X Xigmatek Dark Knight / Loki CPU Cooler
Cooler Master USP 100 casing
2 X Xigmatek 120mm LED Casing FAN

About Corsair PSU , i got a friend on another forum asked me to get that too , but we dont have it here weird.....we only have GS, AX , HX , TX , all expensive = = "

So if this 600 W from Xigmatek will do i think i will stick to it =)

Here's the site to my PSU

Link to the Xigmatek 600W PSU

http://www.xigmatek.com/product.php?productid=38
 
There are other good cheap PSUs. Antec Earthwatts?

NEVER skimp on the PSU. It's connected to everything, meaning it can possibly kill everything in your computer.
 
Just to throw my opinion on the fire. Unless power consumption is a concern, IMHO it's a much better value for the money to pick up an FX-6100 instead of an i3-2120 at roughly the same price. Looking at stock speeds of course the i3 looks like the better value but with it being a locked processor with only the ability to OC roughly 200MHz or so it doesn't keep up with the 6100 when it's clocked to 4.5GHz (I was in the same boat and considering both CPU's as well). When the 6100 is overclocked it performs as well or better than the lower locked i5's as well. Now if your budget can afford it then of course the 2500K is the best choice when it comes to "best bang for the buck" (I considered that too but my wife would've gotten irritated. She hates quote "your computer stuff"). Another factor to consider is that dollar for dollar you'll get more options on an AMD board vs the similarly price intel board so you have to factor that into your budget or sacrifice some features (some are not necessarily "needed" but nice to have for future upgrades and tech etc.). As for gaming your most important consideration will be the GPU. In 90% of games out now any quad core CPU @ 4GHz with a high end GPU will for the most part max out the settings and run smoothly. The games to come in the future will be multi-threaded so single core performance won't be as important in gaming as it was in the past. BF3 is a good example of the shift to multi-threading. MOH2 will be using the same engine as BF3 and will be another one that will benefit from multi-threading. As for the 4100, I don't have personal experience with it but I've seen people post in another forum (pretty new here so I haven't read many of the threads) that they game with nary a problem once the 4100 is OC'd above 4GHz. Just remember a good gaming system is all about balance. No point in putting an i7 SB-E in a system for gaming when you'll only be able to afford a GT 240 or HD 7570. Likewise there's no point in spending 1500+ on triple 7970's when you can only afford an athlon II or Pentium G620. Also something to consider is your monitor. Are you going to be gaming in 1080p? or 1440x900 etc. Is your monitor 60Hz? or 120Hz? Using a 60Hz monitor your target for all of your games is a minimum frame rate of 60 FPS which will then put your average higher and give you a "cushion" for frame drops and yet still remain at or above the target of 60. In all reality anything much higher is not going to make a difference to your eye. The monitor can still only refresh the screen 60 times a second. You won't notice a difference until you move up to a 120Hz (trust me I have a 55" full 120Hz 3D tv downstairs and you'll know the difference when you see it). You never really stated what your budget is? (Dollars? AUD? etc). IMHO a list of best "bang for the buck" as far as CPU's go is something like this from cheapest to most expensive (going by prices here in the US), intel SB Pentium G620, AMD A-8 APU (I would say some of the phenom II's but they're becoming hard to find), Intel i3-2100, FX-6100, FX-8120, i5-2500K, i7-2600K (anything higher is in most cases unneccessary in the typical home system). That doesn't mean any of the other choices are "bad" or "poor" choices. And that list can easily fluctuate depending on other factors as well. For someone in a region with really high electricity costs would probably want to consider the i-3's or locked i5's even though there are other choices that overclock and perform a little better than stock i3's i5's. The added costs of running those OC'd CPU's might not be worth the performance difference (and gaming isn't really one of those areas where you'll see huge gains going from CPU to CPU unless you're running a triple/quad SLI/Crossfire system). Really to properly advise you on which CPU's, MB's, GPU's to consider it's best to know all the factors. What parts do you have now? (including monitor) What is your budget? What are your concerns? (power etc.) What will you be using it for? What do you want to accomplish?

Edit - I just read the last post that I missed earlier where you were specifying the build you were considering. Here's what I propose IMHO. Since you're considering an 1155 build if I were you I would go this route (you'll have to check prices there since I have no way to look them up in malaysia)

First, when it comes to PSU's make sure to check out the reviews at hardwaresecrets. They really do an awesome job of breaking down each PSU and fully testing them. You'll also see numerous power supplies under different labels (corsair etc) that all have the same innards since they're manufactured by the same company and packaged by various resellers.

CPU - i5-2500K It's only slightly more than the 3450 and you'll get better performance. Price in the US $219.99
MB - Asrock Z77 Extreme 4 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157293 Price in the US $135
Cooler - Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-EVO-CPU-Cooler-Review/1407/6
Performs better than the dark knight and is cheaper to boot. Price in the US $35
Mem - GSkill Ripjaw 2 x 4GB Ram is so cheap nowadays it makes no sense to skimp on it
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231468 Price in the US $60
Case - Rosewill Ranger http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147061 For the features it's one of the best buys on a case I've seen in a while. Price in the US $60
PSU - Rosewill Green 630W Review says it all http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/881/ Price in the US $65
GPU - This is where it gets tricky but since you've already settled on the 7850 then
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127663 Price in the US $260
As for the rest you already have the right idea on HDD etc.
 
Last edited:
Knufire said:
There are other good cheap PSUs. Antec Earthwatts?

NEVER skimp on the PSU. It's connected to everything, meaning it can possibly kill everything in your computer.
Click to expand...

Sorry no as i said , we only have most are Taiwan brands

Corsair , Gigabyte, Cooler Master, Seasonic , Albec , FSP , Silverstone , Xigmatek.

Besides the Cooler Master , Seasonic , Silverstone , Xigmatek and Corsair they are the only ones with around 600W PSU within my budget as in around 100 USD i guess. Since USD is 3 X more than my money. So the Xigmatek 600W its price on 279 bucks here.

Is Xigmatek bad? Well i cant really find reviews on Youtube for this but i did found some review on Hardware Heaven it seems good enough to me =/

http://www.hardwareheaven.com/reviews/957/pg6/xigmatek-nrp-pc602-600w-psu-review-conclusion.html

Bubba-Hotepp said:
Just to throw my opinion on the fire. Unless power consumption is a concern, IMHO it's a much better value for the money to pick up an FX-6100 instead of an i3-2120 at roughly the same price. Looking at stock speeds of course the i3 looks like the better value but with it being a locked processor with only the ability to OC roughly 200MHz or so it doesn't keep up with the 6100 when it's clocked to 4.5GHz (I was in the same boat and considering both CPU's as well). When the 6100 is overclocked it performs as well or better than the lower locked i5's as well. Now if your budget can afford it then of course the 2500K is the best choice when it comes to "best bang for the buck" (I considered that too but my wife would've gotten irritated. She hates quote "your computer stuff"). Another factor to consider is that dollar for dollar you'll get more options on an AMD board vs the similarly price intel board so you have to factor that into your budget or sacrifice some features (some are not necessarily "needed" but nice to have for future upgrades and tech etc.). As for gaming your most important consideration will be the GPU. In 90% of games out now any quad core CPU @ 4GHz with a high end GPU will for the most part max out the settings and run smoothly. The games to come in the future will be multi-threaded so single core performance won't be as important in gaming as it was in the past. BF3 is a good example of the shift to multi-threading. MOH2 will be using the same engine as BF3 and will be another one that will benefit from multi-threading. As for the 4100, I don't have personal experience with it but I've seen people post in another forum (pretty new here so I haven't read many of the threads) that they game with nary a problem once the 4100 is OC'd above 4GHz. Just remember a good gaming system is all about balance. No point in putting an i7 SB-E in a system for gaming when you'll only be able to afford a GT 240 or HD 7570. Likewise there's no point in spending 1500+ on triple 7970's when you can only afford an athlon II or Pentium G620. Also something to consider is your monitor. Are you going to be gaming in 1080p? or 1440x900 etc. Is your monitor 60Hz? or 120Hz? Using a 60Hz monitor your target for all of your games is a minimum frame rate of 60 FPS which will then put your average higher and give you a "cushion" for frame drops and yet still remain at or above the target of 60. In all reality anything much higher is not going to make a difference to your eye. The monitor can still only refresh the screen 60 times a second. You won't notice a difference until you move up to a 120Hz (trust me I have a 55" full 120Hz 3D tv downstairs and you'll know the difference when you see it). You never really stated what your budget is? (Dollars? AUD? etc). IMHO a list of best "bang for the buck" as far as CPU's go is something like this from cheapest to most expensive (going by prices here in the US), intel SB Pentium G620, AMD A-8 APU (I would say some of the phenom II's but they're becoming hard to find), Intel i3-2100, FX-6100, FX-8120, i5-2500K, i7-2600K (anything higher is in most cases unneccessary in the typical home system). That doesn't mean any of the other choices are "bad" or "poor" choices. And that list can easily fluctuate depending on other factors as well. For someone in a region with really high electricity costs would probably want to consider the i-3's or locked i5's even though there are other choices that overclock and perform a little better than stock i3's i5's. The added costs of running those OC'd CPU's might not be worth the performance difference (and gaming isn't really one of those areas where you'll see huge gains going from CPU to CPU unless you're running a triple/quad SLI/Crossfire system). Really to properly advise you on which CPU's, MB's, GPU's to consider it's best to know all the factors. What parts do you have now? (including monitor) What is your budget? What are your concerns? (power etc.) What will you be using it for? What do you want to accomplish?

Edit - I just read the last post that I missed earlier where you were specifying the build you were considering. Here's what I propose IMHO. Since you're considering an 1155 build if I were you I would go this route (you'll have to check prices there since I have no way to look them up in malaysia)

First, when it comes to PSU's make sure to check out the reviews at hardwaresecrets. They really do an awesome job of breaking down each PSU and fully testing them. You'll also see numerous power supplies under different labels (corsair etc) that all have the same innards since they're manufactured by the same company and packaged by various resellers.

CPU - i5-2500K It's only slightly more than the 3450 and you'll get better performance. Price in the US $219.99
MB - Asrock Z77 Extreme 4 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157293 Price in the US $135
Cooler - Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-EVO-CPU-Cooler-Review/1407/6
Performs better than the dark knight and is cheaper to boot. Price in the US $35
Mem - GSkill Ripjaw 2 x 4GB Ram is so cheap nowadays it makes no sense to skimp on it
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231468 Price in the US $60
Case - Rosewill Ranger http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147061 For the features it's one of the best buys on a case I've seen in a while. Price in the US $60
PSU - Rosewill Green 630W Review says it all http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/881/ Price in the US $65
GPU - This is where it gets tricky but since you've already settled on the 7850 then
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127663 Price in the US $260
As for the rest you already have the right idea on HDD etc.
Click to expand...

Holy essay lol , sorry i seriously is too lazy to read everything also in the end i barely understand much of it since im still not good with PC things.

So basically your asking me to get the 2500 K instead of 3450 because its slightly better performance and im able to OC it ? But its a Sandy Bridge as in older model , why not i get the latest Ivy Bridge.

I did a little calculation once again , if i get the 3550 its actually just 55 bucks more than the 3450 , in that case should i get 3550 instead then , i think i can squeeze out another 55 bucks , question is is it worth that 55 bucks for getting a 3550 which also slightly faster and unable to OC it , though i will never do any OC , 50 bucks i could throw in on other things though , maybe a higher Wattage PSU , more FANS or another 1 more 4GB RAM (RAM cost 95 X1 4GB)

Also sorry to say i cant follow your build as because we dont sell any of those here but i know of them all.

We only have this all

Mobo - Gigabyte / Asus Mobo
Casing - Cooler Master / AeroCool / Silverstone / Lian Li / Corsair / Xigmatek / Gigabyte
RAM - Kingston / Corsair
PSU - Cooler Master , Xigmatek , Corsair , Silverstone , Seasonic , Gigabyte , Acbel , FSP

CPU Cooler i can follow, we do have Cooler Master CPU cooler , but that model i have to look it up
 
Corsair, Silverstone, Seasonic are the only PSUs I'd trust out of those.

RAM, either is fine

Case, probably Cooler Master's in your budget, AeroCool and Gigabyte are junk, Silverstone/Lian Li/Corsair are very good but expensive

Motherboard, both are good companies

A 2500K at 4.5GHz will beat a 3450 or 3550 at stock clocks. But you need a Z77 board as well to OC.
 
Gh0sT-NoVa said:
Sorry no as i said , we only have most are Taiwan brands

Corsair , Gigabyte, Cooler Master, Seasonic , Albec , FSP , Silverstone , Xigmatek.

Besides the Cooler Master , Seasonic , Silverstone , Xigmatek and Corsair they are the only ones with around 600W PSU within my budget as in around 100 USD i guess. Since USD is 3 X more than my money. So the Xigmatek 600W its price on 279 bucks here.

Is Xigmatek bad? Well i cant really find reviews on Youtube for this but i did found some review on Hardware Heaven it seems good enough to me =/

http://www.hardwareheaven.com/reviews/957/pg6/xigmatek-nrp-pc602-600w-psu-review-conclusion.html





Holy essay lol , sorry i seriously is too lazy to read everything also in the end i barely understand much of it since im still not good with PC things.

So basically your asking me to get the 2500 K instead of 3450 because its slightly better performance and im able to OC it ? But its a Sandy Bridge as in older model , why not i get the latest Ivy Bridge.

I did a little calculation once again , if i get the 3550 its actually just 55 bucks more than the 3450 , in that case should i get 3550 instead then , i think i can squeeze out another 55 bucks , question is is it worth that 55 bucks for getting a 3550 which also slightly faster and unable to OC it , though i will never do any OC , 50 bucks i could throw in on other things though , maybe a higher Wattage PSU , more FANS or another 1 more 4GB RAM (RAM cost 95 X1 4GB)

Also sorry to say i cant follow your build as because we dont sell any of those here but i know of them all.

We only have this all

Mobo - Gigabyte / Asus Mobo
Casing - Cooler Master / AeroCool / Silverstone / Lian Li / Corsair / Xigmatek / Gigabyte
RAM - Kingston / Corsair
PSU - Cooler Master , Xigmatek , Corsair , Silverstone , Seasonic , Gigabyte , Acbel , FSP

CPU Cooler i can follow, we do have Cooler Master CPU cooler , but that model i have to look it up
Click to expand...

First, clock for clock the 3450 may be faster than the 2500K but you have to remember you'll maybe be able to squeeze a 200MHz OC out of it and it simply won't compare to the 2500K OC'd to 4.5GHz. On that same note you have to consider that the 3550K is not going to overclock as high as the 2500K, is more expensive and at a high overclock you'll need a verygood cooler if not minimum of closed loop liquid cooler whereas it's easy to OC to 4.5 on a 2500K with a cooler like the hyper 212 Evo. Add to that the fact that in all reality clock for clock it's not a HUGE boost in performance from one to the other, and I just don't see it justifying the cost of going with the 3550K vs the 2500K. But all of that depends on the price difference between the 3450 and the 2500K. If it's around $20-30 then that's an easy choice to make going for the 2500K instead. If it's $50-100 difference than it would make more sense to put that extra money towards a better GPU. As for the rest, look for a good z77 gigabyte board like this - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128543

As far as PSU's go....type into google the model number of any PSU you're looking at and add "hardwaresecrets" and read the reviews. Or simply go to hardwaresecrets.com and search through the reviews. Trust me it's invaluable. You'd be surprised at how many PSU's are rebadged seasonic's or other companies that most people have never heard of but actually manufacture a majority of the "Brand name" power supplies out there.
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/psu-manufacturer-oem,2729-4.html
Out of the ones you listed only Seasonic & FSP, unless you mean Acbel instead of Albec. (Xigmatek are made by HEC and Channel Well for example). The Rosewill PSU that I recommended and Hardwaresecrets give's their golden award to is actually manufactured by ATNG which is a Taiwanese company.

Knufire said:
Corsair, Silverstone, Seasonic are the only PSUs I'd trust out of those.

RAM, either is fine

Case, probably Cooler Master's in your budget, AeroCool and Gigabyte are junk, Silverstone/Lian Li/Corsair are very good but expensive

Motherboard, both are good companies

A 2500K at 4.5GHz will beat a 3450 or 3550 at stock clocks. But you need a Z77 board as well to OC.
Click to expand...

Corsair and Silverstone don't even manufacture their own PSU's and it's not uncommon to find the exact same PSU under a different label.
 
The 3550 is locked, the 3570K is OCable.

Keep in mind he's not from the US and we're stretching his budget as is (or so I believe).
 
Originally stated no more than $200 USD, and prices of PC parts aren't always the same overseas, usually more expensive than the US.
 
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Okay, so going by the prices on the list at this website
http://www.compu-zone.com/
here's my new list for the OP -

CPU I5-2500K = 650 ringgits ($208USD)
Motherboard Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H = 319 ringgits ($100USD)
Mem CORSAIR PC1600 D3 VG 4GB x 2 = 190 ringgits ($60USD)
or CORSAIR 1600C9 VENGEANCE 2x4GB = 229 ringgits
PSU Seasonic 620W S12II = 299 ringgits ($94USD)
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Seasonic-S12II-Bronze-520-W-Power-Supply-Review/954/10 review of the 520W ver. of the lineup
GPU GIGABYTE HD7850 2GB D5 256BIT OC = 849 ringgits ($266USD)

I'll leave the build at that since case choices are too subjective depending on which type of look you like etc.
 
I only quickly read Bubba's long post. Skimmed rather. Not sure about the AMD route.. The FX line is just not worth it when you can get a nice cheap H77 board and pair it with a 3450 and get the same result. A 3450 at stock is probably equivalent to 4-4.2ghz FX 6100; minus the extra performance thread-wise. Which even then I wouldn't be surprised if the FX lost. And also considering the 3450 without IGP will max out at 50w; vs the FX 6100 130w+ rating and once OC'd goodbye power conservation.

But I do like you've gone back to the Intel route :p. I do agree on the 2500K though; I myself actually bought a Z77 board and the 2500K at the same time, simply because the 2500K required less cooling for a nice OC then the 3570k. And for a gaming rig; made no difference.

But for single screen gaming at 1080p; and for a gaming rig only; the i5 3450 will do perfectly fine. OC'ing really doesn't help a lot for 1080p or less. It really only helps some badly threaded games where higher clock speed means more; but even then 3.5ghz isn't slow for an Ivy proc (turbo mode). If the OP isn't comfortable with Oc'ing; or has no desire to; I see little reason to buy him an overclockable CPU. Though I would stick with that board you picked; just because its only 20 ringits more expensive than the H77 version. But the 3450 is almost 100 ringits less than the 2500k. But again if the aim is budget; the drop to the H77 paired with the 3450 is still the better choice. Over 100 ringits saved for (at stock) slightly better performance and slightly lower consumption (though negligible)
 
= =" wao i gone for college for like 3 hours and the amount of essay has came out lol, really appreciate the help guys.

Actually my total budget its RM 2200 if possible no more (havent include GPU , i getting all other parts first , i will have to suffer with my Sapphire 5830 Xtreme 1GB with my new PC build at the moment)

So i should change to Seasonic / Silverstone PSU instead then ? Cooler Master aint bad too i seen many Americans used them. Maybe its not so popular there, but most actually uses Cooler Master , i can get a 650W 80+ BRONZE too from RM 279 for Cooler Master

Bubba how you know of Compuzone ? I actually is taking the price from there lol , but they dont sell the PSU and CPU cooler i want from there.
But i be buying most parts from that shop. So you guys can take a reference what my country here got and the price from that price list.

But as i mentioned before very earlier , well i know this is a OC Forum , but sadly i dont OC , i dont tend to OC too....so i dont think there's any point i getting a 2500 K since i wont OC it. So my question stands , is 3550 worth the extra 55 bucks compare to 3450.

Another thing it worries me , i just actually found out the H77 and even the Z77 Mobo from Gigabyte its actually a Micro ATX , i was wonder since its smaller, i worry my GPU will touch the HDD cage of my casing , will it ? Or since the Mobo is smaller you will actually place it lower than the normal size ATX Mobo , i hope you understand what i mean.

I just want a PC which my hardwares either the GPU / CPU or any what so ever , will bottleneck my other parts or anything.

I want a PC able to play all most recent 2012 released games and upcoming 2013 games, with MEDIUM to HIGH graphics , i don't even demand ULTRA. If possible maybe my PC can still last for all the games for the next 3 - 4 years (starting from now 2012 )

Thats all i want , i want a gaming PC , but not a hardcore extreme gaming PC , since its aint cheap to get a PC here actually , dont know about US , if i include GPU now total build be like 3 K then.

That being said , to show how hard to build a PC here, simple , a Manager salary here maybe only 4 - 6 K per month ! Im still a student and im building a PC worth 3 K !

Unless your a business man , i think money will come easier then well if you have good business daily.

One most last thing , let's not forget to add in a new copy of Windows 7 64 BIT costing RM 269 =)
( i wonder is it even 64 BIT on the price list if its 86 BIT.....****..... even more expensive than i calculated then)
 
Last edited:
Gh0sT-NoVa said:
= =" wao i gone for college for like 3 hours and the amount of essay has came out lol, really appreciate the help guys.

Actually my total budget its RM 2200 if possible no more (havent include GPU , i getting all other parts first , i will have to suffer with my Sapphire 5830 Xtreme 1GB with my new PC build at the moment)

So i should change to Seasonic / Silverstone PSU instead then ? Cooler Master aint bad too i seen many Americans used them. Maybe its not so popular there, but most actually uses Cooler Master , i can get a 650W 80+ BRONZE too from RM 279 for Cooler Master

Bubba how you know of Compuzone ? I actually is taking the price from there lol , but they dont sell the PSU and CPU cooler i want from there.
But i be buying most parts from that shop. So you guys can take a reference what my country here got and the price from that price list.

But as i mentioned before very earlier , well i know this is a OC Forum , but sadly i dont OC , i dont tend to OC too....so i dont think there's any point i getting a 2500 K since i wont OC it. So my question stands , is 3550 worth the extra 55 bucks compare to 3450.

Another thing it worries me , i just actually found out the H77 and even the Z77 Mobo from Gigabyte its actually a Micro ATX , i was wonder since its smaller, i worry my GPU will touch the HDD cage of my casing , will it ? Or since the Mobo is smaller you will actually place it lower than the normal size ATX Mobo , i hope you understand what i mean.

I just want a PC which my hardwares either the GPU / CPU or any what so ever , will bottleneck my other parts or anything.

I want a PC able to play all most recent 2012 released games and upcoming 2013 games, with MEDIUM to HIGH graphics , i don't even demand ULTRA. If possible maybe my PC can still last for all the games for the next 3 - 4 years (starting from now 2012 )

Thats all i want , i want a gaming PC , but not a hardcore extreme gaming PC , since its aint cheap to get a PC here actually , dont know about US , if i include GPU now total build be like 3 K then.

That being said , to show how hard to build a PC here, simple , a Manager salary here maybe only 4 - 6 K per month ! Im still a student and im building a PC worth 3 K !

Unless your a business man , i think money will come easier then well if you have good business daily.

One most last thing , let's not forget to add in a new copy of Windows 7 64 BIT costing RM 269 =)
( i wonder is it even 64 BIT on the price list if its 86 BIT.....****..... even more expensive than i calculated then)
Click to expand...

Many Amercians who don't know about power supplies****. Don't buy cooler master power supplies. Go with a Seasonic or Silverstone PSU.

The two versions of windows there, you want the 64bit. If it says 86; it actually means its 32-bit. So don't buy that :p.

Also your HD 5830 is still an alright card. Not the greatest; but hey. It'll work for now for sure. =). And you'll find it perform a bit better with your new setup.

EDIT: oh and 'Amercians' also = rest of the world. The problem with cooler master power supplies is that they have a lot of mediocre/bad PSU's that have high wattages, like 650-750W. And they're often cheaper than quality 500-600W units. So people see it and go 'HEY, HIGHER NUMBER, CHEAPER PRICE, MUST BUY'. I cannot tell you how many times I've had to correct PSU choices in builds for my local e-tailers facebook page/discussion page for those wanting to build computers... :p
 
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I go for Seasonic then , its 620 W 80+ BRONZE , the Silverstone i check its only 600 80+ not Bronze , both are also RM 299.

Well my budget has went up again.

Also about the Mobo , since its Micro ATX will my GPU fit i worry it touches the HDD cage since its smaller meaning the PCI-E slot be higher too im not sure that's what i think or basically the position of the PCI-E slot isnt much different even in a Micro ATX ?

Yeah i know , im planning to get 64 BIT , they only show " WINDOWS 7 HOME PREMIUM " never wrote the BIT , that's what worry me. If its 86 then surely 64 be more expensive , then i have to squeeze more money again ! Worst case i dont know why is there OEM ver and RETAIL ver , RETAIL versions are like 100 + more expensive too !

My 5830 is still kicking asses nicely , if u know my history , its my CPU actually bottlenecking it now , that's why i mentioned , i do not want anymore bottlenecking problems =(

So that's why i rebuilding everything now and stick with this GPU at the moment , worst to come maybe i play old games first and enjoy new games later = /

My GPU able to run most games now still , only sometime spike due to my CPU.

I can run them on HIGH no problem , doesn't get any laggier but least i get better graphics =)
 
Intel i5 3450 580
Gigabyte H77M-D3H 299
Kingston HyperX 185
Seasonic S12II 620W 299
Sapphire HD 7850 2GB 739
Cooler Master HAF 912 299
Win 7 HP 64 Bit OEM 269

Total: 2670
With Windows 7 + Graphics card. Not sure what you need storage wise. BUT this build is based on the fact that you're NOT going to overclock. Otherwise; swap the i5 3450 for a 2500k; and swap the board to the Z77 model.

As much as I dislike HAF series cases; it appears to be the best value for you. That USP case looks.. Um. Not so nice :p.

And as per your question; there are 2 Sata ports that are right angled off the board. 4 that are not. Just use the 2 that are right angled. Won't interfere at all.

Also because the Sapphire HD 7850 2GB (Which, btw, I believe is a better buy than the Gigabyte model suggested earlier; I prefer sapphires coolers) is only dual slot; it shouldn't impede on the other 4 anyway. =). (Oh; and the sapphire is cheaper)
 
Hmm 2600 , i think i can do with that , maybe still GPU later , i build 2220 first then a few months later add it in.

Yeah about the SATA...for DVD ROM i be using SATA 3 3GB/S right ? There's 6GB/s and 3GB/s am i right ?

Actually i was wondering , is there any disadvantages using Windows OEM ver rather than Retail , Retail its alot more expensive !

And wao i didnt know they drop the price of the GPU again ! It was just last month it cost RM800 , the OC 7850 i mean.

Even the 7770 Vapor-X is cheap as the Normal 7770 as before ! What a scam ! Luckily i didnt buy them yet !
 
Stick with the OEM version..

DVD ROM doesn't matter. Mechanical HDD's doesn't matter whether it says Sata 2 or 3. Won't make a difference lol.

Well, take out the graphics card. That's 2670-739. 1931. Add a Hard Drive. 1TB Western Digital Blue. + 265. That's still 2200 flat basically. Perfect :p.
 
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