need some advise

[hacknayan]

i want to build new computer so here is the list on my mind can you help me if it's good and compatible.

case:
Corsair Obsidian Series 800D CC800DW Black Aluminum / Steel ATX Full Tower Computer Case http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139001&Tpk=corsair obsidian 800d

mobo:
ASUS Rampage IV Formula LGA 2011 Intel X79 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131808

cpu:
Intel Core i7-3930K Sandy Bridge-E 3.2GHz (3.8GHz Turbo) LGA 2011 130W Six-Core Desktop Processor BX80619i73930K http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116492

gpu:
2x EVGA 02G-P4-2689-KR GeForce GTX 680 Hydro Copper 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130772

psu:
CORSAIR Professional Series Gold AX1200 (CMPSU-1200AX) 1200W ATX12V v2.31 / EPS12V v2.92 SLI Certified 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Full Modular Active PFC Power Supply http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139014

memory:
G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9Q-16GBRL http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231315

storage:
Intel 520 Series Cherryville SSDSC2CW240A3K5 2.5" 240GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820167086

Western Digital Caviar Blue WD3200AAKX 320GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136770

water cooling:

pump:
Swiftech MCP655™ 12v Water Pump w/ Speed Control and 3/8" Conversion Kit (317 GPH) http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6...ed_Control_and_38_Conversion_Kit_317_GPH.html

top:
EK D5 X-Top Acetal Pump Top Rev. 2 - Laing D5 & Swiftech MCP-650/655http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7...Rev_2_-_Laing_D5_and_Swiftech_MCP-650655.html

rad:
Black Ice SR1 Low Air Flow Optimized - 360 Radiator - Black http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9...ir_Flow_Optimized_-_360_Radiator_-_Black.html

res:
Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 150 Inline Reservoir - Ice Black (BP-WTZM150P-IBKBK) http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1..._Reservoir_-_Ice_Black_BP-WTZM150P-IBKBK.html

tubing:
Danger Den DreamFlex Value Pack - Tubing / Clamps / Tube Cutter ( 1/2"ID x 3/4"OD ) - Clear UV http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...lamps_Tube_Cutter_12ID_x_34OD_-_Clear_UV.html

cpu block:
EK Supreme HF Universal CPU Liquid Cooling Block w/ LGA 2011 Hardware - Rev 3 - Acetal + Electroless Nickel Plated (EK-Supreme HF - Acetal+EN (Nickel)) http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...l_Plated_EK-Supreme_HF_-_AcetalEN_Nickel.html

fittings:
14x Bitspower Ultimate G 1/4 Thread 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD Compression Fitting (BP-CPF-CC5) http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8...D_x_34_OD_Compression_Fitting_BP-CPF-CC5.html
2x Bitspower G 1/4" Thread 90 Degree Rotary Fitting Adapter (BP-90R2) http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8...90_Degree_Rotary_Fitting_Adapter_BP-90R2.html

quick disconnect:
Koolance QDC (Extreme Flow) No-Spill, Female Compression (13mm, 1/2" x 19mm, 3/4")(VL4N-F13-19S) http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...ompression_13mm_12_x_19mm_34VL4N-F13-19S.html
Koolance QDC (Extreme Flow) No-Spill, Male Compression (13mm, 1/2" x 19mm, 3/4")(VL4N-M13-19S) http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...ompression_13mm_12_x_19mm_34VL4N-M13-19S.html

coolant:
3x Fluid XP+ Extreme Non-Conductive 32 oz. Liquid Cooling Fluid - Blood Red http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...e_32_oz_Liquid_Cooling_Fluid_-_Blood_Red.html

rad fan:
3x Phobya 120mm x 25mm Nano-2G 1500rpm PWM Fan - Red LED http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...x_25mm_Nano-2G_1500rpm_PWM_Fan_-_Red_LED.html


question:
1. does 1 360 rad will enough to cool cpu (oc'd to 4.2ghz-4.4ghz) + 2 gpu (stock speed)

2. do you think the 1200w psu is overkill? or can i change it to 850w

3. does all my part are compatible? the fittings, mobo, cpu, tubing and other parts.

 

[m0r7if3r]

There is a sticky in this section, it will answer most of your low-level questions about WC gear as well as teach you how to not nuke all your stuff when you're setting up your loop.

 

[RGE]

regarding your 3 question:

1) Since in typical use you wont fully load the cpu and gpus simultaneously, you can get by with a 360 rad for a cpu and 2 gpus. If folding/loading cpu/gpu simultaneously, your cpu temps would suffer. Not everyone would be happy with 360 internal rad for that, others are fine with it... really that is a personal preference question based on what temps/OC you are happy with.

2) I use a corsair 850W for my cpu and 2 gpus. You could go with 1000 watt instead of 1200, no reason to do 1200 unless you plan on more than 2 gpus in future.

3)As for what I would do different:

Fluid XP had about 8C worse temps than all the other coolants in skinneelabs testing here, because it has high concentration of propylene glycol, which has about 1/4 cooling capacity of water + viscous and also hampers flow.

Most here will just use distilled water + biocide and colored tubing, to avoid potential waterblock gunking and the more frequent cleaning/maintenance of premixes. But if you are set on using colored fluids, fluid xp would be my last choice.

I would get the full copper/acetal version of EK supreme hi flow instead of the EN nickel version, and avoid the nickel erosion/corrosion issues they are having even with their new EN nickel plating.

1500 rpm fans are still loud. Buy a rheostat so you can run fans at 800-1000 rpms quiet speed for 24/7 use, and then run them at higher speed for stress testing, etc.

If you try to cool a 3930K OCed with 2 680s on one 360 internal rad using fluid xp cooling fluid and those fans....I dont think you will be happy with your temps.

 

[hacknayan]

thnx for the info. can u link me the ek full copper/acetal block? then if i use the distilled water, my reservoir will be plain distilled water, what should i do to make it with color. and what fan and fan controller should i use. and btw, im planning on adding 140mm rad on the back panel of obsidian 800d, do you think it will reduce more temp. its ok if i use 850w certified gold psu. coz i cant see 1000w certified gold.

 

[dtrunk]

i <3 noobies... i guess i was (still am) one at some point too. Dude... R E A D everything you can find. Google search watercooling 800d; and similar searches and READ. You'd be amazed at who has done what and talked about (and took pictures.)

link to ek full copper/acetal ---> http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=ek+hf+supreme+copper+acetal

^cause that was impossible to find. real link http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27127

you'll find that PC building and watercooling is a trade off. for the PC parts, if you buy now; then you're essentially buying top of the line gear from mid last year; if you wait another 1-2 months then you can buy the NEWEST of the new IVY Bridge based CPU and Mobo. ((I'm personally waiting))

For the watercooling gear, read skinneelabs.com and martinsliquidlab.org and similar. most of the higher end gear is similar. are you more concerned with noise or with tDelta? for fans the choice is usually YateLoon, Delta, Scythe. NOT PWN fans is generally what you want with a NON-pwm controller; but you can go the PWM route if you want. fan controller is essentially cosmetic; over 20w per channel is preferred. Quick disconnects are a joke, expensive, and possibly flow restricting. most opt for the 350/355/35x(if pwn) pump and an aftermarket top. You could consider a separate loop for the cpu and gpus? i found prices at performance PCs was better for my cart total, though I had to make some changes.

colored fluids in WC systems = A LOT MORE MAINTENANCE. spend the $ on cosmetics like UV/color anti-kink coils, color/uv tubing, color fittings/oring (waste imho), UV lights, LED light bars, etc. if you want to clean your WC loop every three months and have degraded performance then buy colored fluids.

PSU: I'd say 850 is close, but if it was a TRUE 850w from a good company then you might be ok; you might want too look closer to the 1000w mark depending on peripherals and overclocking intentions. I personally like active PFCs, single 12v rail wth high amperage, upgraded other parts is nice but not needed; buyn something quality for the PSU is a good idea.

Edit: ohh, and 1/2ID 3/4OD compression fittings setup can be a pain as you have very little room between the connectors... ((Or so I'm told for the CPU block)) I personally don't see why you'd need 1/4" thick tubing in a system that probably won't EVER go past 1 bar of pressure.

 

[hacknayan]

PSU: I'd say 850 is close, but if it was a TRUE 850w from a good company then you might be ok; you might want too look closer to the 1000w mark depending on peripherals and overclocking intentions. I personally like active PFCs, single 12v rail wth high amperage, upgraded other parts is nice but not needed; buyn something quality for the PSU is a good idea.

Edit: ohh, and 1/2ID 3/4OD compression fittings setup can be a pain as you have very little room between the connectors... ((Or so I'm told for the CPU block)) I personally don't see why you'd need 1/4" thick tubing in a system that probably won't EVER go past 1 bar of pressure.

so i should change my tubings and fittings to 1/4? and yeah. im a total noob. coz this is my first build and first wc. and really want spoon feed. so anyone here can make me a list of all water cooling parts and im going to spend about $1k for this. thnx

 

[dtrunk]

i love u man, but not enough to create an entire shopping list for you. From simply the information above you should be able to put together a decent start; it might be a little hit and miss, but you can always post your supposed shopping cart here for confirmation.

clarification: i was commenting that with fittings that are meant for 1/2"ID tube, you can choose to get 1/2"ID 5/8"OD tube/fittings or 1/2"ID 3/4"OD tub/fittings. The larger size (1/2"ID 3/4"OD) has a 1/4" thick wall; which is over kill and could create tight spaces (i personally have phat fingers.) the 1/8" inch walls of the 1/2"ID 5/8"OD tube/fittings should be fine and mayb a few cents cheaper.

as for the 140mm at the back, yes that is a viable idea. I too am considering that, but will probably wait for my upgrade to IB gear; and might consider a bigger external radiator setup (possibly a 2nd 3x120mm)... once i see what my noise/tdelta looks like. (( <---- which is essentially what you should do, start with 1 rad and upgrade as needed. )) if you can fit a push/pull setup in, you'll get better performance out of 1 radiator. 20mm thick 120mm fans can help you squeeze that few extra mm of space and cfm/tdelta of cooling.

^^^^ you get no more info. you (backside) has been wiped, time to grow a pair and drop $1000.

 

[GTXJackBauer]

Just my 2 cents. From what I've read (months ago) theres only 1 or 2 140mm Rads that can fit in the internal back fan area of the 800D. I could be wrong as maybe newer rads have come out that would fit properly. Most 120mm rads fit back there.

P.S. - Do your homework seriously cause when a problem arises (pumps running dry/leaks) and you spook and don't know what to do you can easily loose everything you dumped in it. Personally I would go with a Ivy Bridge i7-3770k (quad-core coming in late April supposetly @ around $330) than a i7-3930K (six-core @ $600) assuming you're just gaming/folding etc and use the extra dough on better parts wether its WC or not. Being your first computer build in general in of itself can be a pain and to most of us its a cake walk but can be a huge headache from time to time especially for a newcomer. Jumping from that to WC at the same time can be a enormous challenge and task. I hope you do your research and good luck! Just make sure you don't jump the gun.

 

[hacknayan]

Just my 2 cents. From what I've read (months ago) theres only 1 or 2 140mm Rads that can fit in the internal back fan area of the 800D. I could be wrong as maybe newer rads have come out that would fit properly. Most 120mm rads fit back there.

P.S. - Do your homework seriously cause when a problem arises (pumps running dry/leaks) and you spook and don't know what to do you can easily loose everything you dumped in it. Personally I would go with a Ivy Bridge i7-3770k (quad-core coming in late April supposetly @ around $330) than a i7-3930K (six-core @ $600) assuming you're just gaming/folding etc and use the extra dough on better parts wether its WC or not. Being your first computer build in general in of itself can be a pain and to most of us its a cake walk but can be a huge headache from time to time especially for a newcomer. Jumping from that to WC at the same time can be a enormous challenge and task. I hope you do your research and good luck! Just make sure you don't jump the gun.

thnx. but im going to stick with my 2011 socket, coz they said that ivy bridge-e will be available with 2011 socket

 

[GTXJackBauer]

thnx. but im going to stick with my 2011 socket, coz they said that ivy bridge-e will be available with 2011 socket

Ah gotcha. I believe they are coming out in mid-2013 if I recall correctly.

 

[hacknayan]

clarification: i was commenting that with fittings that are meant for 1/2"ID tube, you can choose to get 1/2"ID 5/8"OD tube/fittings or 1/2"ID 3/4"OD tub/fittings. The larger size (1/2"ID 3/4"OD) has a 1/4" thick wall; which is over kill and could create tight spaces (i personally have phat fingers.) the 1/8" inch walls of the 1/2"ID 5/8"OD tube/fittings should be fine and mayb a few cents cheaper.

ok. thnx dude. so you're saying that the 1/2 ID is ok as long as i change the OD to somewhat smaller like the 5/8 OD. right? thx again.

 

[m0r7if3r]

ok. thnx dude. so you're saying that the 1/2 ID is ok as long as i change the OD to somewhat smaller like the 5/8 OD. right? thx again.

I think that's what he's trying to say, and he is wrong. 1/2"id 3/4"od is so much easier to work with than 5/8"od. You really need to go read the stickes, because the differences between various tubings are covered there. If you want specific data on tubing, look here. http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums...eview-18-Types-of-Tubing-Reviewed-56k-warning

 

[RGE]

You want 1/8 inch thick tubing, it kinks less. 3/8 ID 5/8 OD is 1/8 inch thick as is 1/2 ID 3/4 OD, since when you measure the diameter of tubing, the walls are counted twice, hence the thickness of tubing is 1/2(OD - ID).

I prefer 3/8 ID 5/8 OD just for aesthetics, slightly thinner tubing. Others prefer 1/2 ID 3/4 OD. But I would get one of those 2, and again they are 1/8 inch thick which is what you want, less chance of leaking at barbs since thicker tubing and can tighten adequately with less risk of cutting tubing, and bends tighter without kinking.

 

[m0r7if3r]

You want 1/8 inch thick tubing, it kinks less. 3/8 ID 5/8 OD is 1/8 inch thick as is 1/2 ID 3/4 OD, since when you measure the diameter of tubing, the walls are counted twice, hence the thickness of tubing is 1/2(OD - ID).

I prefer 3/8 ID 5/8 OD just for aesthetics, slightly thinner tubing. Others prefer 1/2 ID 3/4 OD. But I would get one of those 2, and again they are 1/8 inch thick which is what you want, less chance of leaking at barbs since thicker tubing and can tighten adequately with less risk of cutting tubing, and bends tighter without kinking.

Good point...it's the wall thickness that matters, not the actual OD...that wasn't really clear in my post.

 

[hacknayan]

You want 1/8 inch thick tubing, it kinks less. 3/8 ID 5/8 OD is 1/8 inch thick as is 1/2 ID 3/4 OD, since when you measure the diameter of tubing, the walls are counted twice, hence the thickness of tubing is 1/2(OD - ID).

I prefer 3/8 ID 5/8 OD just for aesthetics, slightly thinner tubing. Others prefer 1/2 ID 3/4 OD. But I would get one of those 2, and again they are 1/8 inch thick which is what you want, less chance of leaking at barbs since thicker tubing and can tighten adequately with less risk of cutting tubing, and bends tighter without kinking.

so i should get 3/8 ID 5/8 OD fittings and tube? and it will work fine/

 

[RGE]

yes 3/8 ID 5/8 OD for tubing/compressions, or like you have 1/2 ID 3/4 OD.

Temp difference is about 0.1C to 0.2C between two per Cathars testing, just my personal preference for 3/8 5/8 as easier to work with and nicer aesthetics imo, than thicker 1/2 ID 3/4 OD.

 

[hacknayan]

yes 3/8 ID 5/8 OD for tubing/compressions, or like you have 1/2 ID 3/4 OD.

Temp difference is about 0.1C to 0.2C between two per Cathars testing, just my personal preference for 3/8 5/8 as easier to work with and nicer aesthetics imo, than thicker 1/2 ID 3/4 OD.

ic. thx. and there is other things that was confusing me. i do lots of reading on some forums. they said that the order of loops doesnt important but some said that the order of loops is import. i already know that res then pump is a must.