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Noctua NH-D14 Temps

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your chip is trying to disperse 130W of energy.
your friend's chip is trying to disperse 95W of energy

that you're getting the same temps speaks highly of your ability to get a good connection (or that your friend's pc sucks at venting air). I'm still in the camp your Noc is working as intended. But if that doesn't make you feel better, test it out like i said. See what type of results you get.


Remember just because it's the same case doesn't mean you'll get the same results. There are all sorts of things that go into it. For example... what if the PSU blows a LOT of hot air around or worse, what if it gets hot and DOESN'T move air well? What about the GPU? What about your board? The placement of the northbridge, and the temps it generates can fiddle with your temps. What about your ram?

there are so many considerations you shouldn't get hung up on what xyz does in system x vs system y.
 
It's there ANY guide to how correctly use cable managent and improve airflow inside a case?
 
It's there ANY guide to how correctly use cable managent and improve airflow inside a case?

cable management basically means tucking the cables behind the MB tray between the Left door (looking at it from behind, right door for the front) and the case/cage, then using zip ties to bundle the cable up and to the case, or a modular PSU to remove the free cable all together.

There isn't a guide to how to do it... you're just really trying to keep the inside of your case neat and tidy, which really doesn't mean all that much unless you have a window or thin mesh allowing people to see the inside of the case and you want it to look nice. It can also help unclutter the airflow a bit... more on that later.

As for airflow, this is something modern cases don't do great. Generally the problem is the orientation of the motherboard. To get ideal airflow the MB should be rotated 90degrees with the io panel facing the top of the case (as its the PCI cards that do the most damage for proper airflow). Because that configuration would mean all your cables are coming out of the top of the case, and that doesn't look that good, motherboards are rotated so the io panel faces back. If a case were built in this top io configuration far less fans and even passive convection cooling would be possible. However, that's not the way of the world so we have other solutions for airflow.

The result of the awkward positioning of the PCI slots is natural convection is effectively blocked. So cases need to solve airflow problems with active cooling with front (and/or low) intakes, positive pressure, and backward facing exhaust, as the flow of air is generally bottom front to top back. Many cases also put exhaust vents in the top of the case, though in many cases this is more to give a place for a water cooling radiator, or top mounted psu then any real thought out exhaust design... though it IS helpful for venting hot air (and makes liquid spills a legit danger for your system at the same time lol)

Generally good airflow is about positive pressure. you want more air being PUSHED into your system then being pulled out by exhaust fans. By creating positive pressure you boost the airflow within the case and increase the heat dissipation.

so... good airflow is caused by
1) strong front/low intake (positive case pressure)
2) a clean and free path for said airflow to pass diagonally up and out the back top corner of the case
3) powercords, hardware arranged so as to not clutter the free path too much.
4) inside the case fans (CPU cooler, GPU cooler, PSU cooler, water radiator) oriented to AID this direction of venting (up or back, and in the case of the water radiator, out)
5) exhaust fans to help keep airflow going on the proper path (though not so many or so strong as to eliminate the positive pressure of the intake, seriously, too many or too strong an exhaust will make your system have negative pressure and that doesn't really help cooling at all)



I helped a friend of mine build a lower end gaming system a few months back. He got one of those HAF mega towers against my recomendation because he liked the cool look (its his pc, so it not my call) and tried to load it up with pretty red fans. The system ran hot and he couldn't figure out why. So i helped him tinker with it a bit. We ended up removing all but 3 fans from the case, 2 front intake, 1 back intake, and let the mesh do the rest. Sure enough the case temps dropped 15 degrees C. TOO many case fans, and too much mesh can really play havoc with airflow. His case had plenty of open space and lots of mesh, really there was no reason for the case to be that hot, particularly since if there were zero fans his case would probably be only a few degrees over room temp (that case has a lot of open mesh, and free space). All the fans, many of them creating too much negative pressure really busted up the natural circulation of air within the case and did what i thought was almost impossible... make a case with all that open space and mesh run +15-20 degrees C over ambient room temp.

2 intake fans at the bottom one exhaust at the top back and that case doesn't get more than 5 degrees warmer then ambient anymore.

The moral of the story is experiment.
 
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As you can see from my pic above, I disagree somewhat. I think that multiple slow, quiet fans are just right for moving air. I combine that with opening the outflow area to let air leave unimpeded.

@GerarRv - your D14 is sited traditionally.

Dismounting and remounting your D14 should be easy. Sometimes getting the seating with TIM just right can improve cooling. It's especially true with our 1st generation i7's: I like to have my whole ihs (integrated heat spreader) covered with TIM when I put a heatsink's contact surface on it.

Overall, your system should be OK. But do try a little overclocking to see how well your cooling holds up.
 
I'm gonna test everything i saw on this thread, thanks everybody.

Ehume, would you mind if i make contact with you vía PM in a few days? since you are using the same chipset as me.

again, thanks everybody.

edit, azanimefan has a point. i usually see people online more concerned about putting hot air OUT of the case. I'm currently using this orientation:

airflow-2.jpg


I was thinkinh to put another 14cm fan down to pull cool air inside the case.
 
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This is the airflow I use:
ca2468b8_Beta_Evo_Quiet_Rig-C_03.png


Rather than draw hot air out, I put cool air in. The reason I moved away from bottom-front-to-rear-top is that when you do this, you bring air that is warmed by your motherboard into your cpu heatsink intake. Worse, if you have a gpu that puts air into the case -- especially forward of the gpu card -- you further warm the air that your heatsink ingests.

Since air goes where you push it (warm air will not move upward against even the weakest fan), it makes sense to push the coolest air possible onto your hottest components for best cooling.
 
I don't disagree with your system ehume. Frankly, possitive pressure is more important then a "clear" airflow from what i can tell. You have a pile of intakes... and while they do bust up your airflow, you're creating a great deal of positive pressure which is probably negating any negative effects of the rough airflow.

20 years of serious overclocking has convinced me more intake= cooler case. All you need is some exhaust to compliment it... heck, i became a believer in positive pressure when i saw a friend use a water-cooling RADIATOR as an intake and get cooler case temps then when it was used as an exhaust. (granted it was a small case with only like 2 other fans, so he had to use SOMETHING as an intake)
 
I don't disagree with your system ehume. Frankly, possitive pressure is more important then a "clear" airflow from what i can tell. You have a pile of intakes... and while they do bust up your airflow, you're creating a great deal of positive pressure which is probably negating any negative effects of the rough airflow.

20 years of serious overclocking has convinced me more intake= cooler case. All you need is some exhaust to compliment it... heck, i became a believer in positive pressure when i saw a friend use a water-cooling RADIATOR as an intake and get cooler case temps then when it was used as an exhaust. (granted it was a small case with only like 2 other fans, so he had to use SOMETHING as an intake)

I would have smoother airflow lines if my case were larger -- but then it wouldn't fit under the shelf where it needs to go.

Note two things: I use lowspeed filtered fans everywhere (even the middle front intake is filtered now). They are quiet, which was the point of the exercise. The open back is designed to make this a positive airflow system rather than a positive pressure rig: no way for any pressure to build up. Also, the lack of (an)other fan(s) as exhaust means no extra noise.

Before I cut my rear grill off I could hardly feel my D14 at the back. No, with no grill, I do. The relevant tool includes a nibbler.

Twenty years of OCing. Impressive.

For OP, the summary:

CPU.IHS > TIM > D14 > air

The better the TIM, the better the heat transfers. The cooler the air, the more delta-T you can get. The faster the air flows, the more delta-T you can get. etc.
 
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