xtreeme
Disabled
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2009
- Location
- banned camp
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Noob WC setup.
- Thread starter abethegeek
- Start date
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2007
- Location
- Small town Emlenton, PA
No worries! You read this yet? It's in my much read poor link.
http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=312743
http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=312743
OP
- Joined
- Dec 23, 2009
- Thread Starter
- #44
Yup. read that link a couple times, but I'm trying to find some more details on some loose ends/things I didn't understand:
1. EK multioption installation. I guess these types of reservoirs are not supposed to be full? Also, inlet and outlet can't be from the same direction, unless you get a special pump top?
2. A more detailed instruction on loop installation.
3. How to best cut the tubing? So far, I hear a hot knife is the best way.
4. What does dry testing mean?
5. Can I leak test without installing the mobo or anything else? If I read that link correctly, I can connect two of the pins to start the psu, but I'm not sure.
6. I didn't order any rotary fittings and I think I'm screwed now with that res . . .
Thanks again and happy holidays everyone.
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
1. to my knowledge, these are your options for barbs with the res.
2. would explain the best i could, but it will take a while and i'm running late.
3. never tried a hot knife, and wouldn't it will melt the tubing making a mess and sloppy cut. i use a razor blade and lightly saw back and forth. though i do have a proper tubing cutter at work. be careful with the razor i sliced my finger good the last time i built a loop.
4. the only thing that comes to mind for that phrase is no thermal paste on your cpu block. it will let you measure the right length for your tubing. you can then remove the block to install the tubing easier. but at that it's not a big deal.
would also for once you have filled the system with water and are testing the loop for leaks to again not use tim (putting paper towel in between the cpu and block) and if there are any leaks you can remove the block and not have to use more tim.
5. yes you jump the psu so it will start only the pump. you can full install it all and leak test. or you can jump the psu and leak test with nothing in the case. but make sure you leak test with the w/c installed in the case. if you have to take it apart to install in the case you need to leak test again.
2. would explain the best i could, but it will take a while and i'm running late.
3. never tried a hot knife, and wouldn't it will melt the tubing making a mess and sloppy cut. i use a razor blade and lightly saw back and forth. though i do have a proper tubing cutter at work. be careful with the razor i sliced my finger good the last time i built a loop.
4. the only thing that comes to mind for that phrase is no thermal paste on your cpu block. it will let you measure the right length for your tubing. you can then remove the block to install the tubing easier. but at that it's not a big deal.
would also for once you have filled the system with water and are testing the loop for leaks to again not use tim (putting paper towel in between the cpu and block) and if there are any leaks you can remove the block and not have to use more tim.
5. yes you jump the psu so it will start only the pump. you can full install it all and leak test. or you can jump the psu and leak test with nothing in the case. but make sure you leak test with the w/c installed in the case. if you have to take it apart to install in the case you need to leak test again.
