OC'ing Questions

[bassnut]

We all run a combo OC ..... meaning we use some FSB and Multi to achieve our OC's. It seems once you pass a certain speed it becomes harder to get your next multi, for me that was with my 8350 around 4.8GHZ switching to a combo OC it was allot easier to get the next big step with my OC. This is something you probably would not of noticed with your AIO cooler had you not beefed up your fans to get that little extra bit of headroom. It has been noted before that there is some advantage in regards to heat generated it's not huge but there none the less you might as well take advantage of it. I had a rough night sleeping last night with the humidity storms and heat my mind is not working right yet I am sure you will get a better response yet, me I am not the terminology guy that I leave to RGone ...... he's the man.

 

[t1nm4n]

You got it close enough. It does seem easier to get this dialed in closer to the limits with the fsb, that multy is a large jump and it seems like it takes more voltage than it really needs, with the fsb x multy OC it seems you can get it dialed in a lot more close to maximum efficiency of your particular CPU, at least that's what I'm guessing right now. It does make more sense that achieving a higher clock would be come easier when using FSB and multy than multi alone. I know the feeling, that's how it was yesterday with the humidity (the a/c being off didn't help matters) and then working outside all day in the sun spreading gravel up and down our 1/4 mile-long gravel road just took it out of me, I think I crashed on a coach at like 5pm and woke up at 3am or so. Whoever said driving a tractor all day was easy work has never had to do it. but that's another story all together.

 

[Mandrake4565]

Have you all noticed whether there are really sweet spots on each CPU, I am asking cause I was running 22.0x210 at 1.43125 and the temps, ( I know I need more cool) were gettin close to peak temps on the package (highest you want is 62c). Now I am guessing it's fairly safe to run a lil over that as long as it's not for extended periods, say 5 min. Well I thought I would just bump fsb and leave everything else set, so it 22.0x211 @1.43125. after about 30min. of p95 prime I am getting slightly cooler temps, about 1-2 on the package. Is this because the CPU is more efficiently using the same voltage or is like a theoretical sweet spot for this particular CPU.

Which is all a mute point now cause I was just slightly off on voltage, it failed a worker while I was typing this out.

Back to the drawing board I go.

Well there are certain points in the Prime blend test where it will stress the Cpu more or less, if that is what you a referring to with the drop in temps. As far as temps go, 62c is "recommended" max, I will say I do know of one user that runs his rig 24/7 at 100% with temps much higher without issue. You will likely never hit the same temps use do while stressing with Prime during daily usage.

 

[RGone]

there were some options missing in Power Management (Power Options). This means that all that worked he helped me with was for naught, or round three of installs was in my future (someone upstairs was mad at me). Well being the stubborn man he is and foolish one I am he was able to tell me which devices were in control of those Power Options needed to throttle your CPU.

You go to Device Manager > view > show hidden devices > and scroll down and open system devices. I can't guarantee this will be a fix for everyone (or anyone for that matter), but it worked for me wouldn't you know it, the missing options in Power Options so I could let my CPU idle down when not pushed were there.

View attachment 165304

Just forken me running. I just shot myself in the foot with a bios flash and lost my two of three processor power options. Shett shett.

TinMan did say it might not work for everybody. It did n0t work for me. CrapOLA. Tried it two (2) times and still no Min or Max processor settings under processor power. SO being the bright ole faht I be, I moved my Downloads and my Docs and put my Image back hoping that would fix my issue. NOT. Well now I am really scratching my...head.

Boot out and back into bios to look closely this time after having called myself looking once already. Crap there it is. Cool N Quiet hanging out just a shade above and offset from the C1E enable disable and I had Cool N Quiet Disabled. It is not exactly shown as in my CHV and this being a CHV-Z...I did not look CLOSE ENOUGH. REenabled Cool N Quiet and booted back into winders and there are my two settings for Min and Max cpu percentages. I had wasted quite a bit of time because of my bios flash and NOT really reading this less well known bios of the CHV-Z.

So now for me, I know the rest of the story. Pay close attention. I need not think I can just remember from one board to the next. And you will not be able to run Offset Vcore correctly without Cool N Quiet Enabled and it is not "pictured" just like it was in the CHV as it is in this CHV-Z. So my word to the ole faht is to pay freeken attention and you will not be REimaging and running here and there. Just enable Cool N Quiet and windows will pick it up and change your power options.

RGone...ole faht out.

 

[caddi daddi]

the method I use to find the max clocks on my busses,
cpu first, set cpu/nb, ht, ram real slow, find fastest cpu speed with milti, reduce multi .5 lower, use fsb to find fastest cpu speed, write that number down, it's allways a very uneven number like 5267.
set it all back donw real slow, start working up the cpu/nb in same fashion, keeping other busses slowed down, when it's maxed out, reduce the multi .5 and start working the cpu/nb back up with the fsb, write that down.
do this with each bus till I run out of busses to jigger with, writing them all down.

set my fastest cpu clock then try to get all my other busses as close to the maxes I wrote down, this gets me into the ball park and then it's time to juggle the busses, all with the fsb to find the balance in each bench.
super pi mod likes ram fast and tight, cinebench, not so much, it likes the cpu right on the line.

 

[t1nm4n]

the method I use to find the max clocks on my busses,
cpu first, set cpu/nb, ht, ram real slow, find fastest cpu speed with milti, reduce multi .5 lower, use fsb to find fastest cpu speed, write that number down, it's allways a very uneven number like 5267.
set it all back donw real slow, start working up the cpu/nb in same fashion, keeping other busses slowed down, when it's maxed out, reduce the multi .5 and start working the cpu/nb back up with the fsb, write that down.
do this with each bus till I run out of busses to jigger with, writing them all down.

set my fastest cpu clock then try to get all my other busses as close to the maxes I wrote down, this gets me into the ball park and then it's time to juggle the busses, all with the fsb to find the balance in each bench.
super pi mod likes ram fast and tight, cinebench, not so much, it likes the cpu right on the line.

I was thinking Cinebench didn't care about ram speeds so much, it might at really high clocks, but where I'm at it doesn't seem to make a difference (2-3 points maybe) when I ran 4.6 with default ram clocks through the bios (1333) compared to 19** with the 22x211 1.475. It might of been the higher HT or NB that helped with that, btu I thought it might of been a better spread with the higher clocks. I will say this, the high ram clocks kept the results closer with multiple runs than compared to the lower ram speed, not sure why, but thought I'd mention this.


@RGonster see, that's what you get for following my lead I think it had more to do with the image you installed from, having made the image from a fresh install you made with all the right timings in the bios created the registry files needed to show those Processor power state options, had you done a fresh install with the wrong bios settings it would of worked for you, so we can't say that method won't work for anyone but (although I like the feeling of being special like that ). Glad you got it all resolved, and glad to hear it's workin as intended.

On a different announcement I'm in the process of putting part of my system under water, so might be a lil whiel before you all here from me when it comes to questions about life in general (I got that one figured out for me) or how to pick up girls in a dungeon, good thing they created to cartoon to explain the process, was getting worried. I'll try and get some pictures, but no guarantees.

Of course there is the possibility I'll pull a B!ch move and change my mind, but most likely not, already started hacking away, so.... Maybe I should just stat an upgrade log.

 

[Mandrake4565]

Cinebench likes Nb frequency!

 

[t1nm4n]

Cinebench likes Nb frequency!

I'll have to remember that, been doin some small hwbot benchmarks, mainly to get a feel for how to submit and trying different sys config variations to increase scores. I know the best way is to use a gutted OS but I don't think that's my cup of tea. You can still earn points with a slow rig such as mine, well .1 at a time

 

[Johan45]

Yeah you really have to push the FX into the +5 range before the points really start to collect.

 

[Mandrake4565]

Yeah you really have to push the FX into the +5 range before the points really start to collect.

^^^^^^This^^^^^^

One you get the loop going and you get the bug for more boints the next step is right around the corner. Careful it's a slippery slope.

 

[t1nm4n]

^^^^^^This^^^^^^

One you get the loop going and you get the bug for more boints the next step is right around the corner. Careful it's a slippery slope.

I've seen what some of those "pots?" cost, dang, that's insane, and I'm not sure I can afford the stock otions so I can fully cover my board in silicone to keep it "safer" from condensation. Granted I do want to try it, but I don't know if I could get into it enough to make the initial investment, would hate to be a one run and done guy, cause I'm a hoarder, I have a hard time selling stuff. but I have some news on the WC front, the res is mounted, nor to figure out how to drill the holes to mount the pump.



That res ain't goin nowhere, nor will the pump, these items I will use hard tubing cause it's straight and I won't have to undo them to get the components out. Slow and careful doesn't end up with extra holes all over the place.

 

[Johan45]

Looks good but if you're thinking you may want to change components around in the PC, you might want to stick with flexible hoses. Bassnut did the hard tubing on his last build and has switched back because it's such a pain to remove and reinstall components. You might want to have a chat with him about it.

 

[bassnut]

Acrylic tube is nice in some ways but a major PITA I would really recommend just plain flexible tubing. I just re did my build and took out the acrylic for regular tube....... save some frustration if you can. Just my thoughts.

 

[t1nm4n]

I'm not doing the compression fit acrylic, it's that hard lock, and it seems easier to mess with than the compression fit, plus it's a better seal I would think. I mean it seems to me that it will be easier to get to these in tighter spots than compression fit or spring collars on flexible tubing, I'm going to use flexible from flow meter > GPU > CPU >Radiator those are the components that will most likely get changed and if block are slightly different I won't be able to use the same lengths of tube so flex makes sense there. With the top rad securely mounted it won't be moving and nor with the res, so return to the res will be acrylic then I wanted the added support of the acrylic cause I noticed the res holders for that res are pretty weak and I don't think it would be secure enough for my desires using flex from res > pump. Real tight space from the pump to the first rad so I didn't want a lot of movement there (hence why the pump is getting screwed to the case) and its a straight shot from the pump out > rad in >rad out > flow meter. These are straight shots that won't need to be changed ever (hopefully) But I'm sure fans will go bad and flow meter will die, but that's when it's time for a complete tear-down.

This stuff just looks like it won't move when attached right.







It's not like I will be going to lan parties or anything, but if I do I want it to be as secure as possible, that and it's a test of my patience and skill to get this done right and make it look nice (for me of course). I could be cursing myself in a couple of months for having ever gone this route, but for right now it's the right move for me, time will tell.

No that's not the fitting I will be using for that tube, it was just what I had in hand at the time. Rotating end isn't needed where the fitting will attach.

 

[bassnut]

Oh hay all is cool was just relating my experience with ridged tube. This board is a great sounding board for ideas.

 

[t1nm4n]

I get that. If I couldn't use this forum as a sounding board I don't think I would o f joined. But with all things, if I could learn from others' mistakes then I'd be a boring perfect man, screw that, I'm like making my mistakes, they make who I am, and you can't learn anything if you do it right the first time.

Edit: I did figure out how to use the Vac-cuum or as my mom calls it Vacuum, not sure what the difference, other than she is most likely right. I did some vacuuming? did I say that right, I think I did. Now if I could only get my desk as clean as the carpet, don't think I would of ever said that before. If you ever need to use the sucking machine, don't leave money on the ground, it doesn't give it back, like other... NVM I'll keep this somewhat appropriate for most audiences.

 

[Silver_Pharaoh]

Can you get a link on that tubing????

I used PEX for my loop. It works well but that clear ridgid stuff

 

[bassnut]

Remember Frozen CPU is not up and running but here is a quick link for you ......Monssoon hardline tube.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2...k_-_Clear_PETG-3812-4-CL.html?tl=g30c633s2228

 

[t1nm4n]

I got mine from PPCS but watch that video, pretty easy to use, and that glue is really nice. A lil prep to get it nice and bonded, but it should be pretty secure when tightened down. I think it should look pretty sweet when put together, I like how the clear acrylic tubing looks when filled with water, like a glass rod.