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Old water blocks on modern processors
- Thread starter Mustanley
- Start date
- Joined
- May 11, 2004
- Location
- Montana tech Butte mt.
Thats weird becuase my socket A maze 4 worked perfectly on every single s775 board I have used it on.
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2004
- Location
- Dallas, Texas
I'm going to see if my 6002 will fit on my LGA775... supposedly it has to be a stepped base, I don't if thats true. But I'm going to find out.
Sure it would. All you need is a rough grit sanding wheel or one of the cutting bits and about an hour set aside to modify it and put the step into the base.
http://www.hobbyplace.com/tools/drebits.php
I'm thinking a DRE115 or DRE9901 would work well.
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2004
- Location
- Dallas, Texas
Issue is... Is the base thick enough for the step to even be possible to mill out of it...
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
My 6002 has a step in it.....
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2004
- Location
- Dallas, Texas
Are you implying something?
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
No. I thought all 6002s had steps in them in order to clear the Socket A latch area.
OP
- Joined
- May 23, 2003
- Thread Starter
- #49
On the P5K premium I have, I don't see how a stepped base would make any difference, I could mount it in any orientation. There's just nothing that needs to be cleared with a stepped base. Nothing on the socket sticks up higher than the processor heat spreader.
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2004
- Location
- Dallas, Texas
Well, I'll check really quick. I should redo my AS5 as I screwed it up anyway.
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
I just checked Swiftech's page on the 6002, and they say that they shipped two versions. Flat base for all Intel and K8 CPUs, and a stepped base for K7s.
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2004
- Location
- Dallas, Texas
SHWEET!!! Your are right!! There is no clearance needed around the socket, The CPU's IHS is the highest point! This means its time to find my sheet of neoprene and start cutting a backplate...
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2004
- Location
- Dallas, Texas
WELL.... I've got my 6002 mounted now, and I am getting 39C tops on my q6600 at stock. And, this is with my fans at the lowest speed they will go(like 855rpm for 120mm fans) and the newest p95 with 4 threads. Not bad 
These are better temps than with my old cpu...
These are better temps than with my old cpu...Nice!
My 6002 does not have the step (ordered for a P4 system that is no longer here).
However the DFI socket is low enough profile that even my Nekid Mobile Clawhammer has no issues.
I have however found it's much easier to wrap some 80 grit sandpaper around a flat ended pop sickle stick and sand the embossed lettering off of the cambox to make it fit, rather than to try hand-machining the block...all you need is enough clearance to slip a piece of printer paper between them.
My 6002 does not have the step (ordered for a P4 system that is no longer here).
However the DFI socket is low enough profile that even my Nekid Mobile Clawhammer has no issues.
I have however found it's much easier to wrap some 80 grit sandpaper around a flat ended pop sickle stick and sand the embossed lettering off of the cambox to make it fit, rather than to try hand-machining the block...all you need is enough clearance to slip a piece of printer paper between them.
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2007
- Location
- Uppsala, Sweden
Seeing the large differences between the cores it might be worthwile to lap the CPU IHS; I've read several topics in various forums where it leveled out temperatures between the cores significantly. Obviously many of those IHS's are far from 'flat'...
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2004
- Location
- Dallas, Texas
Yea, I ended up not having to do jack- just mount and go.
- Joined
- May 19, 2003
- Location
- Kingwood, TX
That's good news, I'll be doing this soon as well, with my 6002 that is not stepped
I did some looking at newegg's mobo pictures and figured I was fine, then you said you had clearance concerns and I was like "WHAT? Ah hell...". Crisis averted, back to my usual evening antics
I did some looking at newegg's mobo pictures and figured I was fine, then you said you had clearance concerns and I was like "WHAT? Ah hell...". Crisis averted, back to my usual evening antics
OP
- Joined
- May 23, 2003
- Thread Starter
- #59
Well, I'm going to change blocks anyway. The new acryllic top for Dangerden has some problems. The threads are slightly stripped and so the barb barely seals with the O ring. If I tighten the barb too much it breaks loose or even if too much tension is put on the hose/barb. That combined with clearance issues around the socket makes me want to get another block. It's been running leak free for a couple of weeks now, but I don't trust it, especially considering my heatercore and tubing are external and I have a dog and cat running around my house.
Looks like I'll be grabbing a used Apogee GT for about $35 so I figure that will be a nice upgrade for a decent price. Then I'll try to get Dangerden to replace the top or upgrade me to brass top. I'll keep it as a backup or sell it here in the classies.
Looks like I'll be grabbing a used Apogee GT for about $35 so I figure that will be a nice upgrade for a decent price. Then I'll try to get Dangerden to replace the top or upgrade me to brass top. I'll keep it as a backup or sell it here in the classies.
@ Mustanley,
I'd be getting some Marine Goop from HD/Lowe's. Sealing the threads with that will get you a pretty tough bond without life depending upon the o-rings. It's clear too.
It's not perfect, but it's better than throwing money in the junk drawer.
I'd be getting some Marine Goop from HD/Lowe's. Sealing the threads with that will get you a pretty tough bond without life depending upon the o-rings. It's clear too.
It's not perfect, but it's better than throwing money in the junk drawer.
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