- Joined
- Jun 30, 2004
- Location
- San Antonio, Texas
Now send me those old ones I wanna see what's going on inside them
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Rust on rad fins?
- Thread starter Dopa
- Start date
- Thread Starter
- #42
To be honest, I had the same curiosity and I might open them myself! Might send you one of them though
Good to hear that they will send you two new one's.. awesome, yea i would be interessing to see someone open it and see what going on there.. at least if they where mine i would cut it, open it and just have a look to get an idea how it looks like and how "dirty" they are or at least their work on it ;-)
- Thread Starter
- #44
Ok, the new rads are here.. I started flushing the 240 first and it seems pretty good so far. I started with hot deionized did 5 passes and it looks like this:
Now I do cold deionized passes and it's getting cleaner and cleaner. Should I switch back to hot or cold is just fine as well?
Now I do cold deionized passes and it's getting cleaner and cleaner. Should I switch back to hot or cold is just fine as well?
- Joined
- Jun 30, 2004
- Location
- San Antonio, Texas
I normally just do a couple with the hot water then rest with room temp water. But I also use my pump to run it both directions as well.
- Thread Starter
- #46
This is what it looks like after 10 passes with cold deionized:
Almost there I guess.. Finally!
- Joined
- Jun 30, 2004
- Location
- San Antonio, Texas
Yup looking real good now
- Thread Starter
- #48
It seems that I'm using a lot of force in some cases because 3-4 passes were spotless but when I did a 5th with a lot more force, these came out:
But it seems ok to put on the system right?
- Thread Starter
- #50
Well, so far what I like to do is get 2-3 passes with hot destilled or deionized water and then use as much destilled or deionized water it gets for it to get completely clean. To my understanding though, if you use too much force when doing the rad dance, it will simple keep spitting really small particles because.. well.. u use too much force. So for my future builds, I will most probably do what I described above and maybe add some distilled vinegar if the chambers look rly dirty. A lot of people use tap water and they just do a few passes with destilled to remove the salts and minerals which is completely fine.. as long as you got a filter in line.
- Joined
- May 7, 2005
i flush with distilled until it comes out clear. usually it only takes 2-4 flushes and im up and running. ive never seen so much gunk come out of NEW rads before. Dopas situation is faaaar off the deep end. i guarantee if this had happened to an average new to water user...they would have thrown it all in the trash and gone back to air.
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2002
- Location
- The Empire State
- Thread Starter
- #53
Ok, so the rads got superclean after A LOT of flushing and yrsterday I did install everything.. It took me a day though and by the end of it I didn't have the patience to measure tubing lenghts. Not to mention that this tubing is a pain in the *** to get on the fittings and I'm afraid for the components with the amount of force I need to use.
I think you're way overconserned. Ever bother taking a look at the radiator fins in your car? Probably slightly more dirty and worn than what's in your picture. Also, radiators are made out of aluminum (and possibly copper for the pipes). Neither of those metals can "rust" in the conventional sense so the brown rust you see on bare sheet metal and the sort cannot occur in copper or aluminum.
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- Thread Starter
- #56
Hey SPL, thanks for the answer. Yea, I know but at the time I started this post I was really frustrated because all my WC parts took about a month or so to get to me because of customs and stuff. What do you think about the Alphacool fitting in the photo? Is it gonna cause any trouble? I had so much trouble getting the tubing in place today because it did sit a lot of time in its package and it has a circular inclination which makes my life hell when I try to make a "zig-zag" kind of route. 2 more fittings and then I will fire it up!
EDIT: Up and running for 15 minutes now
Is this "bluriness" normal?
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- Joined
- May 22, 2011
- Location
- USA
Don't worry too much about the collar. Most fittings will not screw all the way. My 1/2 x 3/4 will not screw all the way, even though its on very tight. My only worries would have been firing up the PC right after finishing loop installation without going through a 24 hour leak test run.
- Thread Starter
- #58
Hey Jack. Thanks for stepping in! Yea, well I had to leave home and turned it off. It had been running for about 1,5 hours without issues. But the pump was getting hot and I got a bit worried; is that normal? Now the "bluriness" got better as it must be the air bubbles in the loop. They must be.. hundreds! I use EK Cryofuel clear so I guess it's normal?
- Joined
- May 22, 2011
- Location
- USA
It will take some time before the air bleeds out of the loop or at least to your reservoir where you want the air to go. You might have to tilt the case a few times and tap your tubing or blocks to get some lodged ones out. As for the pump, you should be ok. Pumps do get warm but shouldn't get blazing hot. Just make sure to do a leak test before powering up the whole system. Sometimes some get slow leakers as I have and wouldn't have known if not for the 12-24 hr leak test.
- Thread Starter
- #60
So I'm back home.. I have it running for a good 8 hours now and no leaks anywhere.. I thought I saw some leak at a fitting the cpu
block but it was actually the light and the plexi that it was appearing as fluid. After it's done the 12 hours leak test I will connect everything and check temps. In case of leak, what do you actually do?
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