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Rust on rad fins?

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Depends on how bad of a leak. Small drop here or there can be easily wiped up and blown dry. I had my mobo soaked once I just tore it down blew it off with my air compressor then allowed some fans to blow on it for several hours, followed by just sir drying fir a couple days.
 
Depends on how bad of a leak. Small drop here or there can be easily wiped up and blown dry. I had my mobo soaked once I just tore it down blew it off with my air compressor then allowed some fans to blow on it for several hours, followed by just sir drying fir a couple days.

Ok so I fired everything up and it's going good! The pump is doing some crazy jumps in speed because I connected the PWM on the CPU header and I will have to adjust that. So far I'm hitting 22-23C idle on the CPU and 31C on the GPU, which kinda troubles me since I had 32-33C idle on air. To be honest though it's a bit hot today here, but that would affect the CPU temps overall as well right? I see a huge improvement in CPU idle temps ( from 32-33C idle on air it dropped 10 degrees down!). What do you guys think?
 
I'm not sure if that's adding up right. What are your ambient temps if you're able to? What programs are you using to monitor your temps? Water temp if possible as well.
 
I'm not sure if that's adding up right. What are your ambient temps if you're able to? What programs are you using to monitor your temps? Water temp if possible as well.

Ok, bad news. The 90 degrees rotary on the pump is leaking. I can't understand how that happened after 14 hours of leak testing but I guess it's because of the heat in the loop. It's not much, just a few drops every minute. I guess I must be really lucky, because I turned the system off to change something in the cable arrangement and when I pushed the switch on the PSU, there was no power on the mobo.. The leak is far away from the mobo so there is no damage on the mobo, neither did it drip on the PSU cables. So I guess it was pure luck?? Anyway, right now I will need to just empty the loop and replace the rotary. Really bad luck.
 
Ok, bad news. The 90 degrees rotary on the pump is leaking. I can't understand how that happened after 14 hours of leak testing but I guess it's because of the heat in the loop. It's not much, just a few drops every minute. I guess I must be really lucky, because I turned the system off to change something in the cable arrangement and when I pushed the switch on the PSU, there was no power on the mobo.. The leak is far away from the mobo so there is no damage on the mobo, neither did it drip on the PSU cables. So I guess it was pure luck?? Anyway, right now I will need to just empty the loop and replace the rotary. Really bad luck.

Them slow leaks are the worst. You won't see them coming versus the obvious ones. Glad you caught in time but I'm having difficulty understanding about your MB and PSU not getting any power? Is this because you disconnected your components or after the leak it just won't turn on for some reason?
 
Them slow leaks are the worst. You won't see them coming versus the obvious ones. Glad you caught in time but I'm having difficulty understanding about your MB and PSU not getting any power? Is this because you disconnected your components or after the leak it just won't turn on for some reason?

Prior to finding the leak, I tried to turn the pc on.. I plugged the power cable on it and I did hit the switch on the PSU but the mobo didn't get any power.. But it's not a short-circuit because the relee didn't shut down the power as it would normally do.. So, the alphacool rotary is leaking and I'm sooooooo dissapointed coz I worked so much on it
 
Prior to finding the leak, I tried to turn the pc on.. I plugged the power cable on it and I did hit the switch on the PSU but the mobo didn't get any power.. But it's not a short-circuit because the relee didn't shut down the power as it would normally do.. So, the alphacool rotary is leaking and I'm sooooooo dissapointed coz I worked so much on it

No worries. I had a leaking 90 degree rotary or two. I remember it being a slow leaker in the bottom chamber, not near a damaging path. Unfortunately I had to scrap it as it was a internal o-ring issue and not a easier replaceable one.
 
No worries. I had a leaking 90 degree rotary or two. I remember it being a slow leaker in the bottom chamber, not near a damaging path. Unfortunately I had to scrap it as it was a internal o-ring issue and not a easier replaceable one.

Yea well.. there are two thing that I realised.. First, I'm throwing away this Prodigy.. I will most likely order a Fractal Design Focus G because I will definetely need to pull everything apart at this point since there are a lot of things I dont like about the case.. It makes my life way more difficult than what it should. So i will most probably remove everything for now, go back to air for about a momth and then set up everything in the new case.
 
Ok so a small update. I took a week off to relax and I left the loop as it was. The only thing I did was run the pump for another hour because as it stayed off there was no leak, which made me wonder if it would leak again or not. Apparently it did leak and I think it was a two things that made it leak during normal use while it didn't show up on the 14 hours leak test. 1) was the fact that the pump did speed up to 4,5k RPM (since I hooked it on the CPU fan header and didn't have the time to adjust it in BIOS) and 2) the heat from the loop did help revealing the weak o-ring on the rotary. When I did the 14 hours leak test I had an AP30 blowing air directly to the pump to keep it cool, therefore the pump didn't tranfer much of its heat to the fluid. I will order couple fittings more from EK, more coolant and tubing as well as a new case: Fractal Design FOcus G. What do you think of it?
I'm also concerned about the tamps on the GPU. I had idle 32C with approx. 30C room temp. Could it be air pockets or I didn't seat the block properly? I can hear air moving through even after the 14 hours of leak test and when I mounted the block I used the shortest of the screws for every hole but there were longer ones as well which I didn't use. What do you think? Thanks for the help!
 
Ok firstly 32c in a 30c room at idle is good. You won't get ambient temps as the water will warm as it's flowing and parts are heating it. Rotaries can sometimes leak all of a sudden depending on several factors. I had one that had been running leak free for weeks then I rotated it a tad to clear something a little better and the pressure on it caused it to start leaking, rotated it back and it stopped. That was a dual rotary fitting. That's why you want to check things from time to time but don't stress on it. I only use single rotaries now with extenders if I need some extra height. My next foray will probably be hardline tubing which I should of done this go round as I spent almost as much money lol.
 
Only time I'd go full hardline tubing is if I get the top-o-the-line pc parts at the time (no matter the cost). Hardline isn't cost effective if you swap parts as much as you change your underwear.
 
Whatchootalkinboutwillis lol

True but tubing for hard line isn't overly expensive it's the initial investment of fittings that gets ya
 
Soft tubing is easier to work with hands down and more secure. I might do hardline one day, if I have a safety net of funds for worst case scenario that is.
 
Hey guys thanks for stepping in. I plan on making a hard tubing build next June if everything go according to the plan ( they never do lol). Primochill tubing is a bit stiff and I got afraid I would break something trying to pull the tubing out or trying to put the tubing in. The thing is that I used to have the same idle temps on the same room temp while on air.. So I guess that's not normal? My CPU did see a 10C drop on idle temps (where the only temps I managed to see before it leaked lol). I will replace the 4 screws around the die with longer ones by the time I get to empty the loop. UNFORTUNATELY, I have no drain port and therefore I will most probably empty it threw the GPU plugs. This is the case: https://www.msystems.gr/index.php?category=1220&product=22970. What do you think about it? All rads are gonna be sitting in there no problem right?
 
When it comes to soft tubing, I'll take an extra fitting on the side and install both sides of the tubing I'm going to use for the loop and let it sit for a few mins so it expands a bit. Makes it easier for installation.

When it comes to idle temps, you could have air and water at the same range but water shines when under load. That should matter the most.

As for draining, carefully find the lowest fitting, hopefully away from most electronics and start to drain that. Just add paper towels or shamies in the areas of draining in case it spills or splashes. Just make sure to officially add a drain port next time around.

As for the case, just google the case name + water cooling and see what comes up. I like to use the images tab and see what people have used inside said case. That should save you time and money on what can and cannot work.
 
When it comes to soft tubing, I'll take an extra fitting on the side and install both sides of the tubing I'm going to use for the loop and let it sit for a few mins so it expands a bit. Makes it easier for installation.

When it comes to idle temps, you could have air and water at the same range but water shines when under load. That should matter the most.

As for draining, carefully find the lowest fitting, hopefully away from most electronics and start to drain that. Just add paper towels or shamies in the areas of draining in case it spills or splashes. Just make sure to officially add a drain port next time around.

As for the case, just google the case name + water cooling and see what comes up. I like to use the images tab and see what people have used inside said case. That should save you time and money on what can and cannot work.

welp I expected to have lower idle temps on the gpu, but we'll find out I guess! Yea welp, draining is going to be a pain in the *** as the lowest point is on the back of the pump which is mounted on the front rad with the EK UNI-bracket. So I'm thinking of tilting the case side ways 90° and open the plug on the gpu block and let it run straight down. Or, I can unmount the pump and maybe open that back port on the pump. I'm gonna figure it out at that time I guess. I will include a drain valve on this case. There are no pictures of anyone that watercooled in that unfortunately, even though Fractal design says you can put rads on the front and on the top. It doesn't have much room on the back for cable management but it's ok. So I guess I will be getting that (Fract Design Define R5 is quite big for the room I got) and I will be building that by the time I'm back.
 
if your card idled at 32c on air in a 30c room water wont affect that much. its load temps where you'll see water come into play. When I drain my loops I normally unmount the cpu block hang it over the sink or a bucket drain as much as I can that way, then empty the bucket/pan place it under the gpu and pull the lower fitting. I dont normally pull a plug cause the way water comes out thru a fitting it takes it away from the card more lessening the chance of it flowing under the block.
 
I also wanted the alphacool radiator, but after a lot of reading and such... i went for Black Ice Nemesis Radiator GTS X-flow. Bought the 360 and 240.
 
Xflow are nice when you have a lot of room for raddage but some question if the water stays in long enough to get fully cooled I have 3 360x60mm alphacool xflows, not currently in use due to case change. Running 360 and 240 gts from hardware labs
 
Xflow are nice when you have a lot of room for raddage but some question if the water stays in long enough to get fully cooled I have 3 360x60mm alphacool xflows, not currently in use due to case change. Running 360 and 240 gts from hardware labs

Cool, you happy with 360 + 240 GTS from hardware labs?
Im gonna use Fractal Design Define S wich will give enough room for those rads.
 
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