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Temps HIGH with nh-d14... any suggestions?

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thanks for the kind advice. My psu is rather large, will it block the bottom intake? anyway, thinking about it. First i'm gonna try cleaning up and getting my tower out of from under the end table that along with a second endtable and a standard balsa wood door comprises my desk XD And see how much the helps. i know my current tower blows, it has no cable management and 80mm fans (ew), do i you think i will notice a significant difference with one of these options? like 20c off my torture test temps?
 
Appears your PSU will be 10mm too long for 140mm fan. Fractal Design specs 170mm PSU lenght with bottom fan.

Just took a look at your Sunbeam Transformer. Appears it can use 120mm fans front and back and 80mm side and top. Wth 5x 5.25" optical bays you could try mounting a 120mm fan in bottom 3 of them (in front of D14) and leave the door open when testing/gaming. Also removing the housings the front and rear fans go in will improve airflow.. as would replacing those 120mm fans with a good fans. Even a fairly cheap fan link Arctic F12 TC (has thermal control probe to regulate fan speed). The fan controller is set to keep the temperature between 32°C and 38°C. When the temperature is below 32°C, the fan spins slowly and silently. If the temperature continues to rise, the fan speed will increase to deliver maximum airflow, and in turn cooling the PC more efficiently. Putting the probes in between fins & pipes on D14 should work. You can move sensor up and down in cooler to get the desired fan speed curve. The closer to the bottom of cooler the hotter the pipes are.

Here they are £4.99.. (£4.16 + tax) so $7.99 or $6.66 + tax.
 
Those are some good fans, but isn't the Cougar the only PWM one?

Obviously Swiftech 8-way PWM splitter will only control PWM fans. Not sure where you can buy them. Google should find it. I believe they are available with either molex or sata power connections. I think molex will handle more power.
 
Oh wow... that would be hilarious if there's a plastic film on it i neglected to remove. Is there one in addition to the bigger piece of plastic on the bottom? Would it even work if there was a plastic film on?
 
yes it would work but give ya lousy temps. I forgot they put that huge formed plastic on it. Now I cant recall if it had the film one as well. But you'd of noticed it as it says on it REMOVE BEFORE USE
 
yeah i checked there was no film on. also this time i found a little arctic silver 5 and mounted with that... does that need to be hot/cold cycled so it can cure?

i found the swiftech splitter on ebay but it seems like only the sata version is available. The molex one is out of stock on swiftech's website. to tell you the truth i really feel like just getting a new case too, i need cable management. also the d-14's stock fans are NOT pwm.

so here's my plan, buy this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352029 4 of these http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186081 and 1 more of those cougar fans to use them on the d-14 and finally this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Swiftech-8-...74607?pt=US_Water_Cooling&hash=item5af499c44f... sound good?
 
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as5 does have a break in period but it shouldnt be a huge margin of difference from cured to uncured. I have 2 of those swiftech pwm fan splitter lol got them for my switch but my fans are not pwm so i cant use them lol. But when I change cases i may change my fans to pm's as well. thats gonna hurt lol @17$ a pop I need a min of 10 for the rads. Plus at least 3-4 others.


back to your issue when you mount the d-14 are you turning the hold down screws until they bottom out?? is the stock backplate for the cpu still in place??? I ask cause if its bending the board or not getting a good clamp on the cpu that could cause bad temps as well.
 
Good choices.

Only possible change is case size and price. You can save a little using Define R2 and a lot if Arc Midi will do.

Define XL R2 is a good case, but do you need a case that big? Define R4 is same design but smaller & $20.00 cheaper. Arc Midi is similar (no door or sound mat) & $65.00 cheaper.

XL R2 = 232 x 559 x 560mm; GPU 330mm; CPU 170mm;
R4 = 232 x 464 x 523mm; GPU 295mm; CPU 170mm;
Arc Midi = 230 x 460 x 515mm: GPU 290mm; CPU 180mm;

I think the biggest differences between XL R2, R4 & Arc Midi R2 are 9 vs 7 PCI slots covers (can use XL-ATX motherboard); 20mm more PSU clearance with bottom fan; and of course sound mat & door. Thing is sound dampening is really minimal with matting and door anyway. Having quiet fans is far more important.


Arctic F14 PWM are fine but might want to consider using them for exhaust too. That way exhaust fan speed up and pull more air out when system is working harder to better match airflow volume of intakes and coolers and are slow and quiet the rest of the time too. I suspect your biggest problem with be GPU fan noise. ;)

That said, I use 3x TY-140/147 intakes and no exhaust fans, but have removed PCI slot covers and cut out rear vent grill. I just got an Asus GTX580 DirectC II. So far it's running very cool (30c idle/40c load) and CPU is only up 3c so not a problem. Will be moving everything into Phanteks Enthoo Primo next month anyway. :D
 
r4 arrived today before the fans did. All installed and no change in temps. granted it only came with 2 140mm fans that probably suck. I really hope these other fans will sort it, I'm kinda doubting it at this point.
 
got the fans today, 2 cougar 120mm on the nh-d14 2 arctic pwm 140mm in front intake, and two on top exhaust. The temps are the SAME during gameplay, however during prime95 the max is now around 90C instead of flat out shooting to 95-99c. Also the system is now very loud, even during idle with the swiftech 8 way pwm splitter connected to the CPU fan connector. any comments on that guys?
 
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