The "if your temps are too high" thread

[MVC]

actually it would restrict flow quite a bit since it catches solid junk which clogs up the filter instead of the block. Therefore the water has to find another path through the mess and it has less space.

But how is this different than it clogging up the block itself? I'd just like an easy way of cleaning up the clog.

 

[g0dM@n]

But how is this different than it clogging up the block itself? I'd just like an easy way of cleaning up the clog.

Yes, I agree.

Stick some liquid plumber in there, lol.

 

[Jas]

You should "flush" your components, and tubing before final assembly of your loop. Thsi shoudl remove any gunk, debris, or other nasties.

Second, stay with a coolant mixture that won't produce substrates. Low ratio antifreeze or zerex/water wetter mixtures work well. If you are adding UV dye to your coolant, don't over do it, add just enough to create the glow.

 

[g0dM@n]

How do you flush the components? I know what flush means (some people think I'm dumber than I am ), but how do you do it... at my dad's shop we just open the drain valve and let the A-F drain out.

I actually took all of the liquid out of mine, but spilled some. Next time I'm going to unhook from the highest place and take out as much as possible, then unclamp the end of the hose that leads to the cpu and let it drip out from there (CPU is lowest in the closed system). Anyways, I drained my system and then filled it up again, and now it's nothing but bubbles all over. I figured that the bubbles would go away after a few days, but they are still there.

I am using the MCT-5 liquid that DD gave to me for free with my purchase. I have a T-line hooked up and all (I replaced the beer mug that I was using as a reservoir). Before with my beer mug reservoir I had almost no bubbles at all. It was perfect. Now it's bubbles galore. When I drained the liquid I put it in a container and then reused the same liquid. I did that because it was only a week old. Maybe that's what screwed it up? I didn't feel like throwing $20 liquid out just after one week of use.

 

[Jas]

Well, to answer the first part:

What I do is first, rinse everything out in the sink. Then I will use a vinager and water solution and let that sit in the rad for about half an hour. Then rinse it out. Then I will put everything together (usually over the sink) and using a bucket as a res, I will run the loop for a a few hours. I do this so any particles or debris in the loop will collect in the bucket.

Then I do the usual assembly and leak testing.

As for the second part. You need to bleed your system. The simple method of this is to uncap your T line. And cycle your pump. Turn it on for a secodn or too, then stop it. Let some of the bubble go out, and repeat until you get all the big bubble out. Then let the system run until all the "micro bubbles" are out. If you have a REALLY powerful pump you might try retarding the pumps power, you can do this by crimping down part of the tubing, or turning down the voltage on the pump (if you have it hooked up to a fan controler or similar device). This will slow the coolant flow and bleed the system quicker.

 

[SewerBeing]

Jas: 5 minutes is enough for vinegar, 30min is just overkill and you start eating away at the copper if you do it often enough. I suggest 5min of vinegar, also remember to clean the outside and the inside since both are equally important. For the outside even less than 5min is recommended because you don't want to damage the flatness.

 

[Jas]

Thats why I mix the vinegar with water.

 

[SewerBeing]

Thats why I mix the vinegar with water.

for which you never posted a ratio and 30min of 90/10 (vinegar/water) is still harmful so it depends on the mixture. I was talking about pure vinegar in my post you have to be careful because vinegar can and will eat away at copper.

 

[Jas]

I drop about a capfull in, and then fill the rad with water.

 

[Etacovda]

regarding an inline filter, you can buy these at hardware stores in the irrigation section. Be aware they're rather large though, but pose little restriction (10%~ loss in flow rate, so nothing massive) and are easy enough to open + clean - however, you'll have to refill the loop or do something clever to reduce loss of fluid.

http://www.duralirrigation.com.au/onlinestore/index.cfm?NavigationID=87

 

[g0dM@n]

How do you run the WC system at the sink... how do you power it on? I don't know how to make the PSU turn on without a mobo.

 

[MVC]

How do you run the WC system at the sink... how do you power it on? I don't know how to make the PSU turn on without a mobo.

Just use a scrap of wire to jump the green wire on the the ATX plug to any black wire on the ATX plug and PSU will supply power to the molexes.

 

[MVC]

regarding an inline filter, you can buy these at hardware stores in the irrigation section. Be aware they're rather large though, but pose little restriction (10%~ loss in flow rate, so nothing massive) and are easy enough to open + clean - however, you'll have to refill the loop or do something clever to reduce loss of fluid.

http://www.duralirrigation.com.au/onlinestore/index.cfm?NavigationID=87

I was actually thinking of the second one here, http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=316 the "clear styrene housing with bypass lever" one. I'm not too worried about size since I wouldn't install it "permanently" anyway. I'd just put it in when the loop was first built and run it for a day or two. Then it would come out until the next time I had to disassemble/reassemble the loop--I'm pretty sure I could figure out a way to pull it from the loop without introducing new contaminants--unless, of course, that bypass lever works real well in which case I might just leave it installed.

 

[whozyodaddy]

If anybody is having any watercooling problems, here are some tips that helped me solve my problem:
- bleed your system over and over
- your components are stronger than you think, when you install your blocks (cpu) make sure they are tight
- re-mount your blocks over and over
- make sure if your cleaning your blocks with isopropyl alcohol to use a high concentration (90% or higher) and make sure it is only clear, white isopropyl alcohol with no other ingredients, if it smells like wintergreen and is dyed green - don't get it
- try unmounting your other blocks and using only that specific block, then do the same for the others (reason being there could be a kink in between the loop, and you don't even realize it)
- try a bigger than usual AS5 dot, and if you still get problems try a even bigger one
- if it all goes to hell you might want to try a dedicated loop to that specific part

 

[drunkn.bear]

very helpful with the water cooling troubleshooting

 

[Soong]

1) Please take off your block, clean the cpu and block with isopropyl alcohol (70% or above), then apply a new layer of thermal paste (artic silver 5 or artic silver ceramique are recommended) and then remount the block following the instructions properly.

LOL I didn't know AS had instructions. I'm currently waiting for the rest of the equipment I will need to complete my water cooling setup but this might explain why my air cooling temps are astronomical. I have a nice big fat thick (well not so much fat or thick) layer of AS5 between the IHS and HSF. I probably have 20-30 times as much as those instructions would have me put on. At least I know now for when I apply my waterblock.

 

[nixie]

The link to the danger den instructions has changed so the top post has a dead link. Can now be found at This location

 

[SewerBeing]

fixed, thank you

 

[atomicfire]

on DanderDen TDX, if the foam seal on the accelerator plate has come loose - which can happen if you twisted\tightened\loosened the nozzles - it can lodge itself on the inlet to the block and block the flow, causing horrible temps. Happened to me, the quick solution is to remove the plate alltogether, the better solution is just put another acellerator plate with the proper seal on it.

 

[Tepabajo]

Beware of PSU hot air exhaust!

I noticed that my temps would increase a few degrees after my system was running for awhile. I have the PC Power & Cooling PSU which gets fairly hot and saw that it was blowing hot air into the general direction of the radiator. I bought some duct work for an 80mm fan, secured it to the exhaust duct of the PSU and attached the other end to the side wall of my PC cabinet, venting the hot air to the outside. It dropped my temps 3 to 4 degrees for both my CPU and GPU.

Sometimes it's just the little things.

Cheers
Tepabajo