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Too much thermal grease?

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tclayton10

New Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2011
I just finished my first build, and while installing the Zalman CNPS9900 cooler onto the i7-960 CPU, I somehow missed the instruction to only use 1/3 of the supplied grease and instead used the entire tube. Of course, it has oozed slightly over the edge of the CPU, but does not appear to have contaminated any other part of the mobo or any other components.

I have powered on the system just long enough to get the OS installed and to do some driver downloads, so there has not been any significant load on the CPU just yet.

I'm assuming I should remove the cooler and at the very least, respread the grease to a more normal amount. Or should I remove all grease and apply from a new tube? If I can't respread, are there any tips for removing the old grease?
 
you can never have to much, especially some thin high metal stuff, it will just run out and short out on some pins below it :)

You should always remove a seating and check how the squish looks , analise the actual metal to metal contact area , thinness across the whole seating area , and if any dry or to thick areas existed , that way you only have to seat it 2 times, before you stuff it in never to be seen again.
Then you never have to wonder if the base is wacked, if the cap on the proc is wacked, or if your mounting system was offset or incorrect in any way.
so there is no loss in having to undo it all again.

it also give you an opertunity to take off that piece of plastic cover you forgot to remove, and get that dustbunny and hair off that stuck to it when you were mounting it.

Most of the Tims are greacy like and very viciously viscious , clean off with lint free rag , like microfiber towel that doesnt drop fibers , alcohol and amonnia can loosen it some, high solvent tech sprays will loose it a lot. Dawn will break it up , but then you would have to clear it completly and start over again. anything that gets mixed in that damages its properties, including alcohol ammonia or tim cleaner , and you would prefer to remove it all dry completly , and start again.
if it has not gone far, is thick enough just lint free cloth stuff , polyester, nylon socks , will get the majority up, then that is all that would be required.

not all CLAIMED to be lint free cloths are, fibers can fall off the edges of cheaply cut "lint free" cloths supplied by screen protectors, fibers can fall off of microfiber cloths, eyeglasses junk cloths can have fibers. you can basically tell if you have good eyes and a feel for it. most of todays lint-free are plastic fiber cloth, chances are good that you have some sort of plastic clothes that are similar.

we have used Q-tip to remove, but you have to roll the q-tip so it stays together, and microscopically view and remove any cotten fibers, there are also unnatural fiber psudo q-tips that drop less fibers, you know the ones that dont work in ears :)
if we use paper towels or TP to clean, it is only when it is all going to be removed and start again, of course they drop wood fiber all over.

if you keep it 100% clean and untainted, it can easily be used again, Unless it was some of the few very special types .

dont touch it, all them human oils are acidic, if you cant keep your hand off it, wash most of the oils off your fingers first, then there wont be much transfer, dont use gloves, unless they are non-powdered clean room type.

another method would be to get a clean plastic scooping item, (plastic utinsils that were clean) scoop off the mess and store it in a clean plastic dixie cup or something, making sure that nothing has tainted it, remove everything , then re-use this stored stuff after you get whatever you used to clean it fully gone and dry again.

Who says conducting heat off the sides isnt just as important as the top :)

.
 
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Thanks for the quick reply. I guess I was (and am) worried that the grease is supposed to be just a thin layer to sort of bond the two metal surfaces together (not really, but you get the idea), and that having a thick layer might actually reduce the thermal transfer between the CPU and cooler. I just wish I had seen that dang instruction before I installed the cooler (and I looked specifically for it too!!!).
 
Check your idle and load temps to see if it's okay.

Prime 95 for 10 min, use Coretemp, realtemp, or HW monitor for temps.

Usually, depending on the paste, a blob larger than a grain of rice but smaller than a pea is good.

Unless it's the really thin liquid stuff.
 
Me thinks I'll scrape the excess off and examine for any contanimation, respread and reinstall. So far the mobo monitor is reporting temps within spec, but until I run some loading against it, I won't know for sure. Thanks for the tips!
 
No need to respread. Just clean off the excess and remount the hsf ;) I would check temps as Conumdrum suggested as well just to be sure.
 
Personally I'd leave the heatsink on and just wipe the excess off where it squished out the sides.
If you're using a conductive TIM it'd be a good idea to pull the sink off and clean it up just in case.

Checking temps is a very good idea, always.
 
Yea remove all the paste completely from off the heatsink and CPU. You may have to take CPU off board to clean it real good. Use alcohol to do so then after its all cleaned put everything back and only add a dab on the CPU and spread it with an old credit card then pop heatsink back on. Wahlaaaaa!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Don't spread it. It's a paste. Put a dab larger than a grain of rice, smaller than a pea.

Put the HS on, and tighten the bolts with extreme precision one at a time as you go around. Sure it might take 20 minutes, but you want an even spread.

I think you get the picture, but here is my MX-2 application, it's all you need. The paste is close to the same as yours. Your welcome to look up Vapors, Skinnees, and other pros who do hundreds of applications for tests and reviews.

Scroll down 1/2 way to see the amount of paste I used. Cooler went on top of it.

http://www.overclockers.com/annual-water-cooling-cleaning-rebuild-journal/
 
That is why you spread it with a card evenly acrossed CPU then put HS on it. It wont spread evenly unless you do it yourself but everyone has their own way of doing things. I'm just giving mine.
 
Weird... I have spread paste and it worked fine. This is NOT the proper application method for most pastes. I suggest you go the MFG website of the paste and find their application method and follow it.

Also, I always cross tightened screws on my HS/f blocks.... is that incorrect?
 
Some pastes require a curing time. is the Zalman paste the stuff you brush on? Kind of like nail polish. Otherwise, get some aftermarket tim.
 
Regardless the paste is getting spread anyways when the HS gets clamped down so why not have it completely spread evenly before you put it down. Its getting spread either way Conumdrum am I right? Please correct me if I am wrong but no matter how you decide on doing it its going to end up being spread. Come on guys you don't screw a girl with her legs closed lol. These are simple mathematics. Were all geeks here.
 
If you spread paste manually, you will induce air vacuoles, it wont effect performance dramatically, but will consistently increase temps 0.5 to 1C and screw up any testing you are doing.

Also it is easy to use blob in middle and get 100% IHS coverage. Just measure amount of tim with small ruler, try 4mm blob, install block, look at coverage, then 5mm, etc. And tighten block down exact same amount each time, and like Earthdog mentioned, by evenly cross tightening screws to spread evenly. After a while, you will know what your mount looks like before you remove and look.

Granted if your not using calibrated probes to measure intake ambients on each fan, water temp, etc, you probably wont notice or care about .5 to 1C. And liquid metal tims are unlikely to leave vacuoles and some come with brush to spread.
 
If you do remove the HSF, might want to do it upside down, with the board out of the case.
A dead AM3 socket I will not name that had a date with AS5 will confirm this.

With that much thermal paste, depending on the consistency, it COULD drip a little bit into the socket upon removal. Most wouldn't, but I can think of a few runny ones that would, since you are only supposed to use a small dab.
 
Thumbs up on the sig mimart7 lmao.

Thanks for the thumbs up.
You don't need to have t entire coverage to for the cpu. Just apply as per the manufacturer's recommendations. I'm using IC7, and you are only supposed to apply a very small amount. I have a Ven X, on my 2600k, with an everyday oc of 4.5 ghz, and on very hot days, without ac, I.'m in the mid 60's @ full load.
 
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