- Joined
- Jan 25, 2002
- Location
- Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
Thanks, JCLW. I really appreciate the time and effort you put in to help me.
Again, thank you very much for the help.
Again, thank you very much for the help.
-
Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!
Vid - PIN wire wrapping for Tualatin Celeron
- Thread starter Pinky
- Start date
- Joined
- Apr 3, 2002
- Location
- Bloomington, IN
Nice guide! 
As a small point, the PIII-S has a default voltage of 1.45V. -- Paul
As a small point, the PIII-S has a default voltage of 1.45V. -- Paul
- Joined
- Apr 3, 2002
- Location
- Bloomington, IN
So, this method would get a tualtin working on an 810 board, for example? Too bad you can't control the FSB speeds on an HP board .... -- Paul
-- Paul
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2002
macklin01 said:
It's part of it, but not all of it. Flip through this thread: http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=67417
- JW
Last edited:
OP
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2001
- Location
- Las Vegas, NV
- Thread Starter
- #86
Thanks for keeping this updated JCLW, I traded my tualeron a long time ago.
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2002
What vcore do you want?
Which vcore do you have to start with?
Are you working with a Tualatin board (VRM 8.5) or Coppermine board (VRM 8.4)?
Between 1.125 and 1.275 is easy.
Between 1.300 and 1.450 can also be done, but will be a little more work because some of the pins will need to be insulated.
- JW
Which vcore do you have to start with?
Are you working with a Tualatin board (VRM 8.5) or Coppermine board (VRM 8.4)?
Between 1.125 and 1.275 is easy.
Between 1.300 and 1.450 can also be done, but will be a little more work because some of the pins will need to be insulated.
- JW
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2002
FYI: The LV PIII-800-S runs at 1.15v and makes ~11W of heat if that helps at all.
If your board is Tualatin capable out of the box it's VRM 8.5
Option #1: With a Celeron 1.500v tB1 1200 jumper VID3 t0 VID25mv to get 1.100v.
Option #2: With a Celeron 1.475 tA1 1200 make a long jumper between VID0 and VID3 - it will cross over the VID25mv hole. You'll get 1.050v if the VID25mv pin touches the wire when you put the processor in, 1.075v if it doesn't. 0.025v shouldn't make much difference.
I'd go with option #1, myself.
- JW
If your board is Tualatin capable out of the box it's VRM 8.5
Option #1: With a Celeron 1.500v tB1 1200 jumper VID3 t0 VID25mv to get 1.100v.
Option #2: With a Celeron 1.475 tA1 1200 make a long jumper between VID0 and VID3 - it will cross over the VID25mv hole. You'll get 1.050v if the VID25mv pin touches the wire when you put the processor in, 1.075v if it doesn't. 0.025v shouldn't make much difference.
I'd go with option #1, myself.
- JW
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2002
I finally got my celeron 1A working with my vl6 mobo. I isolated the three pins and did the vid-bridge with the four othe pins. The only way it boots is if I set the "cpu hardwire ioq" to 1 instead of 4. with the 1 setting enabed, it only runs at 75%-80% of its full potential (3Dmark 2001 score=about 5500 with 8500le/ [email protected]+256mb pc133). At 1.4ghz, cpu runs at 40C after 4hours of mohaa and 1.65 v-core.
My question is: Would the bridge between the ak4 and ak26pins do the trick and should I connect the ak4 to ak26 or the ak4 to an11.
I know that this proc has great potential and I would like to bring that potential out with full force.Thanks in advance for any help.
-f00t-
My question is: Would the bridge between the ak4 and ak26pins do the trick and should I connect the ak4 to ak26 or the ak4 to an11.
I know that this proc has great potential and I would like to bring that potential out with full force.Thanks in advance for any help.
-f00t-
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2002
Sorry, I didn't realize you had a non-Tualatin board and that's why you were playing with the VID25mv pin. I understand what you were doing now.
As for AK4, there has been a lot of discussion on it and you'll probably find your answer in one of these two threads:
http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=96915
http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=67417
- JW
As for AK4, there has been a lot of discussion on it and you'll probably find your answer in one of these two threads:
http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=96915
http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=67417
- JW
Just wanted to thank everyone for their help. Got my celeron 1.1A to 1540 (140fsb) @ 1.675V using the pin hole method, because I haven't got voltage options on my board
Previously was only stable at 124fsb with default voltage. Pin hole method was easy, just used some copper speaker wire dropped into VID1 and VID2. Thanks guys.
BTW - my first post
Previously was only stable at 124fsb with default voltage. Pin hole method was easy, just used some copper speaker wire dropped into VID1 and VID2. Thanks guys.
BTW - my first post
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2002
I'm glad it worked well for you. What is the sSpec of that 1.1A?JuMpY said:Just wanted to thank everyone for their help. Got my celeron 1.1A to 1540 (140fsb) @ 1.675V using the pin hole method, because I haven't got voltage options on my board
Previously was only stable at 124fsb with default voltage. Pin hole method was easy, just used some copper speaker wire dropped into VID1 and VID2. Thanks guys.
BTW - my first post
Welcome to the forums
- JW
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2002
I've had a few questions along the lines of:
"I have a 1.500v processor and some people say just connect VID1 to VID2 and others say connect both VID1 to VID2 and Vss to VID0 like in your picture post. Which way is the right way?"
Depending on the voltage you start with, different pins will do different things. My post was a universal mod that would make any Tualatin processor request 1.650~1.675v.
On the VID pin chart in that post, the 1.500v has zeros in the VID25mv and the VID2 columns. Anything connected to Vss (the processor ground plane) is "0".
If we connect VID2 to VID1 it will make VID1 a "0" as well. Scanning down the chart, we see that with VID25mv, VID2, and VID1 all "0" we get 1.625v.
If we connect both VID2 to VID1 and Vss to VID25mv it will mean everything except VID3 is a "0". Looking at the chart we see that this will give us 1.650v.
So both methods are correct, they just give you different results. Starting with a 1.500v processor, only connecting VID1 to VID2 will give you 1.625v, and connecting VID1 to VID2 as well as Vss to VID25mv will give you 1.650v.
(A 1.450 or 1.475 processor already has VID0 as "0", so connecting it to Vss won't do anything.)
I can tell the next question is going to be: "So which should I do?"
In my opinion, you might as well make the jump right up to 1.650v because it will help you get a little more speed out of your processor.
Then again, if you have a 1.0A, 1.1A, or 1.2 and "only" want to run at 133FSB and use silent cooling you might want to try 1.625v first.
- JW
"I have a 1.500v processor and some people say just connect VID1 to VID2 and others say connect both VID1 to VID2 and Vss to VID0 like in your picture post. Which way is the right way?"
Depending on the voltage you start with, different pins will do different things. My post was a universal mod that would make any Tualatin processor request 1.650~1.675v.
On the VID pin chart in that post, the 1.500v has zeros in the VID25mv and the VID2 columns. Anything connected to Vss (the processor ground plane) is "0".
If we connect VID2 to VID1 it will make VID1 a "0" as well. Scanning down the chart, we see that with VID25mv, VID2, and VID1 all "0" we get 1.625v.
If we connect both VID2 to VID1 and Vss to VID25mv it will mean everything except VID3 is a "0". Looking at the chart we see that this will give us 1.650v.
So both methods are correct, they just give you different results. Starting with a 1.500v processor, only connecting VID1 to VID2 will give you 1.625v, and connecting VID1 to VID2 as well as Vss to VID25mv will give you 1.650v.
(A 1.450 or 1.475 processor already has VID0 as "0", so connecting it to Vss won't do anything.)
I can tell the next question is going to be: "So which should I do?"
In my opinion, you might as well make the jump right up to 1.650v because it will help you get a little more speed out of your processor.
Then again, if you have a 1.0A, 1.1A, or 1.2 and "only"
want to run at 133FSB and use silent cooling you might want to try 1.625v first.- JW
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2002
- Location
- Portoroz, Slovenia
ATTENTION !
Hello to all you guys! I am running more than 8 months Tuallie on modded Slotket & my 1.0A CPU can go TL stable @1,6GHz w 1,8Vcore in another setup (friends one), but there disipates more than 50W of heat (double than original!) & there needs serious cooling! Intel does not recommend higher Vcore than long term still safe 1,75V & myself i do NOT reccommend more than 1,8Vcore at any case & doing Burn-In slowly with time upping frequency & Vcore with better cooler than stock one /takes weeks!/! WHY?
Because you do NOT want to damage your CPU like last developed case with P4 CPUs known as "Sudden Northwood Death Syndrome" which can develop for Tuallies also if hurrying & esagerating too much. Both CPUs have the same manufacturing process /its fragile/ & same thermal protection, so the "normal" heat is not such a problem, voltages are & upping Vcore more than max reccommended is long term contraproductive!
And remember: the REAL inside core temps are much higher full load than revealed even from probe mounted under cooler tight to IHS; the difference is sometimes even more than 10°C! With in-Socket probe on MoBo could be even 15° higher or more-depends on how the software is calibrated!
Running Tuallies at high real temps is contraproductive /think on summertime & decent airflow/ because even if nominally is set to certain frequency it starts throthling down & slowing performance, so it is better some MHz & Vcore less & getting better stability & overall speed even at lower nominal speed at extreme using condition & so you can dump all those PC noise down a bit too by slowing fans...so providing your CPU survival for longer time; it is really a wonderful CPU (especially if mounted on BX MoBo..)
Thermal Throthling kicks in @75°C /thermal hystheresis 75-80°C/, after 80°C starts slowing down tremendously; at 85°C is sloooowwww like an invalid turtle, 486 cpu is faster than that!!! All these temps I measured days ago from CPUs inner thermal diode (& Win98seLITE did not crash!). Think about it!
Hello to all you guys! I am running more than 8 months Tuallie on modded Slotket & my 1.0A CPU can go TL stable @1,6GHz w 1,8Vcore in another setup (friends one), but there disipates more than 50W of heat (double than original!) & there needs serious cooling! Intel does not recommend higher Vcore than long term still safe 1,75V & myself i do NOT reccommend more than 1,8Vcore at any case & doing Burn-In slowly with time upping frequency & Vcore with better cooler than stock one /takes weeks!/! WHY?
Because you do NOT want to damage your CPU like last developed case with P4 CPUs known as "Sudden Northwood Death Syndrome" which can develop for Tuallies also if hurrying & esagerating too much. Both CPUs have the same manufacturing process /its fragile/ & same thermal protection, so the "normal" heat is not such a problem, voltages are & upping Vcore more than max reccommended is long term contraproductive!
And remember: the REAL inside core temps are much higher full load than revealed even from probe mounted under cooler tight to IHS; the difference is sometimes even more than 10°C! With in-Socket probe on MoBo could be even 15° higher or more-depends on how the software is calibrated!
Running Tuallies at high real temps is contraproductive /think on summertime & decent airflow/ because even if nominally is set to certain frequency it starts throthling down & slowing performance, so it is better some MHz & Vcore less & getting better stability & overall speed even at lower nominal speed at extreme using condition & so you can dump all those PC noise down a bit too by slowing fans...so providing your CPU survival for longer time; it is really a wonderful CPU (especially if mounted on BX MoBo..)
Thermal Throthling kicks in @75°C /thermal hystheresis 75-80°C/, after 80°C starts slowing down tremendously; at 85°C is sloooowwww like an invalid turtle, 486 cpu is faster than that!!! All these temps I measured days ago from CPUs inner thermal diode (& Win98seLITE did not crash!). Think about it!
Spajky, tuallies don't have thermal throttling built in like the p4's.
quote: "All these temps I measured days ago from CPUs inner thermal diode (& Win98seLITE did not crash!)"
are you saying that you got your tuallie up to these temps, are you f#%kin crazy?
quote: "All these temps I measured days ago from CPUs inner thermal diode (& Win98seLITE did not crash!)"
are you saying that you got your tuallie up to these temps, are you f#%kin crazy?
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2002
- Location
- Portoroz, Slovenia
Sorry guys, I have to correct myself, I was wrong about thermal throthling; there is only thermal protection built in: today I discovered that this is not a fact of my Tuallie, but a Feature of my MoBo...there is nothing written anywhere in the owners manual or elsewhere mentioned that I would know, that additional auxiliary thermal probe input on my MoBo has such effect! Even if having this mobo for more than 3 years, I still discover time to time something new about it. Well this can be for me a nice & usefull feature! ..
@ JuMpY: >are you saying that you got your tuallie up to these temps, are you f#%kin crazy?<
)))))))))) YYYYEEEEEEEEEEEEEEESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS !!!!!!! )))))))))))
with OC-ed Tuallie 1.0A@135fsb/defaultVcore & well done AirFlow thru case & very silent machine!
The max working was 88°C if I do not count 97°C for few minutes while checking calibration of
my measuring Gadget with Cpu on the desk & praying god, that later will still work in my setup!:
http://users.volja.net/jerman55/AdaptPreProtTyp.jpg with HairDryer like this:
http://users.volja.net/jerman55/HeatingFront.jpg Gadget schematics:
http://users.volja.net/jerman55/CpuDtempAdapt.jpg
All additional 3 fans in my closed desktop setup are normally running using 7V fans setup like
this-rpm sensing enabled! & the case:
http://users.volja.net/jerman55/rpmSensFan7v.jpg
http://users.volja.net/jerman55/CaseInside.jpg
During tests, fans were controlled by SpeedFan, except PSU thermalControled 6-9V one, which was running all the time. Temps are shown like this: MoBo=MoBo; Motherboard=hotest air pocket inside; Cpu=MoBo-sensor=Socket-sensor 2-3°C cooler than sensor mounted under HSF closest to IHS; (Amb+)AUX= REAL inside core temperature taken from CPUs On-Die diode!
The system was running idle normaly with additional fans @12V, than @7V, than @5V & than WITHOUT them-
this last FULL LOAD!!! While using fans, the full load Cpu temps were just a bit /2-3°C/ higher than
on idle! Here are snapshots:
http://users.volja.net/jerman55/12vFanTemps.jpg
http://users.volja.net/jerman55/7vFanTemps.jpg
http://users.volja.net/jerman55/5vFanTemps.jpg
http://users.volja.net/jerman55/NoFanTemps.jpg
With this last the temperature of a heatsink passed 60°C, vhich diminushes using fans, but it is still about 10° less than real core temps with normal cooling, so everybody should add this value to their readings to get approx. actual core temps! I really wonder, how high are the AMDs core temps... Ouch! if Tuallies can be so high! Any additional comments? ))))
BTW, do you now that non-OC-ed Celly400 with only stock heatsink NO fan still normally works @80°C.. ..
..@ JuMpY: >are you saying that you got your tuallie up to these temps, are you f#%kin crazy?<
)))))))))) YYYYEEEEEEEEEEEEEEESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS !!!!!!! ))))))))))) with OC-ed Tuallie 1.0A@135fsb/defaultVcore & well done AirFlow thru case & very silent machine!
The max working was 88°C if I do not count 97°C for few minutes while checking calibration of
my measuring Gadget with Cpu on the desk & praying god, that later will still work in my setup!:
http://users.volja.net/jerman55/AdaptPreProtTyp.jpg with HairDryer like this:
http://users.volja.net/jerman55/HeatingFront.jpg Gadget schematics:
http://users.volja.net/jerman55/CpuDtempAdapt.jpg
All additional 3 fans in my closed desktop setup are normally running using 7V fans setup like
this-rpm sensing enabled! & the case:
http://users.volja.net/jerman55/rpmSensFan7v.jpg
http://users.volja.net/jerman55/CaseInside.jpg
During tests, fans were controlled by SpeedFan, except PSU thermalControled 6-9V one, which was running all the time. Temps are shown like this: MoBo=MoBo; Motherboard=hotest air pocket inside; Cpu=MoBo-sensor=Socket-sensor 2-3°C cooler than sensor mounted under HSF closest to IHS; (Amb+)AUX= REAL inside core temperature taken from CPUs On-Die diode!
The system was running idle normaly with additional fans @12V, than @7V, than @5V & than WITHOUT them-
this last FULL LOAD!!!
While using fans, the full load Cpu temps were just a bit /2-3°C/ higher than on idle! Here are snapshots:
http://users.volja.net/jerman55/12vFanTemps.jpg
http://users.volja.net/jerman55/7vFanTemps.jpg
http://users.volja.net/jerman55/5vFanTemps.jpg
http://users.volja.net/jerman55/NoFanTemps.jpg
With this last the temperature of a heatsink passed 60°C, vhich diminushes using fans, but it is still about 10° less than real core temps with normal cooling, so everybody should add this value to their readings to get approx. actual core temps! I really wonder, how high are the AMDs core temps... Ouch!
if Tuallies can be so high! Any additional comments? ))))BTW, do you now that non-OC-ed Celly400 with only stock heatsink NO fan still normally works @80°C..
..
