WCing questions from a WCing n00b

[D749]

Hi all.

Besides doing a lot of reading on WCing I'm a WC virgin. However, I plan to change that in the near future. So with that in mind please bear with me if the answers to my questions seem obvious.

My current plan is to initially only WC my Q6600 and an ATI 4870X2. If I push my CPU any further I'll include the NB. My current setup can be found in my signature.

The shopping list:

CPU block: D-TEK FuZion v2 Universal or EK Supreme Universal (evidently the D-TEK doesn't behave with the BP comp. fittings below but there is a new BP 45 fitting that will let it work)
Pump: Laing D5 Vario/Swiftech MCP655 Inline 12V DC
Pump top: EK-D5 X-Top
Rad: Feser X-Changer Triple 120mm
Res: EK-RES250 Rev.2 Multi-Option
Tubing: Tygon A-60-G Norprene (1/2" ID, 3/4" OD)
Fittings: Bits Power Compression Fitting (G 1/4" thread, 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD)
GFX full cover block: Danger Den DD-4870-X2 or EK-FC4870 X2 - CF Nickel

The questions:

Q1: Reservoir should be higher and before the pump input - check. But does the order of devices being cooled (e.g., CPU, GPU, etc.) within a single internal loop (all parts internal to a case) have a large impact on cooling specific parts or does the temperature tend to equalize out? For example, in a single loop (no splits) some people place the CPU before the GPU and vice verse.

Q2: I plan to use BP 1/2" ID 3/4 OD" compression fittings with Tygon 1/2" ID" 3/4" OD tubing. Am I correct in assuming there shouldn't be a fitting issue between two?

Q3: Do pretty much all the custom pump "tops" (e.g., Petra, EK, etc.) support the BP compression fitting I listed above? I originally was going to go with a stock Laing D5 Vario pump but I like the idea of being able to use compression fitting even if it means I have to add a custom "top."

Q4: I'm not interested in dyes but what do you recommend for coolant/additives and why?

Any additional comments are greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

[CGR]

1. CPU should be cooled first.

2. I personally prefer regular delrin fittings myself, so really not sure about compression sizes.

3. I would ask them before you purchase the pump top.


4. I have used Redline water wetter, Hydorx and Purple ice in my loops (mixed with distilled water). I prefer the purple ice due to its color and it is not as bad a smell as Hydorx. As far as cooling, they all pretty much are the same in my book. I like the purple color though

Your list looks fine, but I would suggest not using compression fittings. Also I prefer T-lines over resses.

 

[Conumdrum]

The order doesn't matter much at all, best hose routing is more important. Temp diff anywhere in the loop is actually very small, even in/out on the rad.

As long as the pump top is threaded for the comp fittings you'll be fine.

Glad to hear about no dye or UV. Distilled water and a few drops of PT-Nuke is all you'll need.

 

[CGR]

You want the coolest water going to the CPU first and that is right after its coming out of the radiator. I dont think anyone would suggest to cool the vid card first..

 

[Spawn-Inc]

You want the coolest water going to the CPU first and that is right after its coming out of the radiator. I dont think anyone would suggest to cool the vid card first..

1.the water moves fast enough that it doesn't matter what you cool first, there may be a 1C difference tops, but nothing to worry about. the main thing is make the shortest/cleanest loop possible over order of blocks.

2. i looked at those 45 degree compression fittings and it says it can take 1/8" thick walled 1/2" ID tubing so that means 3/4" OD tubing so yes they will work. ( i am assuming that the other standard compression fittings are the same specs. you can use normal metal barbs, you just need clamps. but you do get a better look with no clamps.

3. as long as the tops and barbs are G1/4 then they will work, just make sure there is space for them like with the Dtek V2. i would go with the XPSC top as it was rated best from martin's liquid lab (link to the test) martin is the man when it comes to water cooling.

4. distilled water and some form of algae killer is all that is needed, PT nuke seems the best.

 

[muddocktor]

the water moves fast enough that it doesn't matter what you cool first, there may be a tops 1C difference but nothing to worry about. the main thing is make the shortest/cleanest loop possible over order of blocks.

Yeah, I agree with this also. And one other thing you might consider too, is to use the silver coated Tygon instead of the one you chose. It's more expensive but the silver in the tubing will inhibit bacterial growth itself and you can run pure distilled h2o in the loop with no additives. I plan to use that in my upcoming loop myself.

 

[Jas]

Cooling order doesn't really matter, with the excepted notation that it is generally preferable to have the res right before the pump (just to help prime the pump).

Those compression fitting should work, however, most would NOT recomend them. Instead barbed fitting with hose clamps would be the most recomended type of fitting.

As far as tops go, I don't think you really need a replacement top for the D5. That top only nets you something liek a 5% gain in flow, and IMO is not worth the money.

As far as addatives go, cheapest method is a little bit of anti freeze, and a little bit of algeacide.

 

[saxile]

anti-freeze/water wetter/etc is not needed what-so-ever unless mixing metals which all is copper, all it will do is retard the water from transfering as much heat as it normally will, even a biocide is not needed if you plan on cleaning your loop regularly, say every 3 months or so.

With the top, as long as you get the correct thread size it will work.

 

[Conumdrum]

Compression fittings are great and don't leak, if coupled with the right hose size. They cost quite a bit more and look fab. Clamps is for the po' folk who want no leaks, like me. Please let's not get into the 7/16 and no clamps at all issue.

The OP needs the replacement top for the pump because he wants to use compression fittings, no worries.

You need NO antifreeze. And please run a biocide. Better safe than sorry, and the PT-Nuke bottle will last you for many many loop rebuilds etc. Only need 2 drops.

 

[Spawn-Inc]

oops i thought you were looking at the Liang DDC pump. for the D5 i would leave it stock as the barbs and a couple of clamps are plenty fine.

 

[CGR]

Has anyone actually tested the temps of the water going in and coming out of a rad? Also do ANY of you actually cool the video card first?

 

[Conumdrum]

http://www.martinsliquidlab.com/
And others have.

Temp diff in a well built system is very small.

 

[CGR]

http://www.martinsliquidlab.com/
And others have.

Temp diff in a well built system is very small.

His tests were done with no fans or 1 fan on a 3x120mm fan rad.. So of course temps will be the same or close with inlet and outlet..

http://www.martinsliquidlab.com/XSPC-RS360-Radiator-Review.html

 

[D749]

Thanks for all the input. I'm keeping an eye on the thread.

 

[Conumdrum]

His tests were done with no fans or 1 fan on a 3x120mm fan rad.. So of course temps will be the same or close with inlet and outlet..

http://www.martinsliquidlab.com/XSPC-RS360-Radiator-Review.html

http://www.martinsliquidlab.com/SwiftechMCR320-Review.html

Looking at the pic of his rad thermal tester, I can't see how he could of ran no fans or one fan. I don't think he would of done thermal testing on a 120x3 rad with one or no fans. I could be wrong, but reading it closely he doesn't say that he used no/one fan. I can only assume he did like the rest of us do, put 3 fans on a 120x3 rad. He's a smart cookie.

Edit... Ohh I see the one fan pull. I'm sure that means 3 fans in pull, not 6 in pull or the push/pull format. You look closely, he's got 6 or 8 (depending on the rad) air temp sensors, and on the chart specifically says (for the 480 rad) 8 sensors for the incoming air, two per fan.

 

[Rickpatbrown]

Depending on your flow rate (determined by the cumalitive restriction of all components pump,tubing, CPU block, GPU block, FITTINgS, reservoir, NB block . . . ) a aftermarket top may not yield any decrease in temps. Use flowrate calculator spread sheet from Martin's Lab. You can find it with the link above.

Order doesn't matter enough to be worried about. Choose the most circular route to reduce the amount of tubing necessary. Keep in mind about the data from Martin's testing shows water temp. 1.5 degrees change in water temp doesn't translate into 1.5 degrees CPU change. You could see just as big a difference if the room temperature went up 2 degrees. Don't worry about it.

If you can hit 1-1.5GPM with stock pump, don't get the aftermarket top.

Distilled (from grocery store)and biocide (PT Nuke, iodine, or something from the pet store) is all you need. Both are very important.