- Joined
- Nov 13, 2001
- Location
- NY
guys what can sensor 1 be?...
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What can this be?
- Thread starter BinarySuperman
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2001
- Location
- Stillwater, Oklahoma
im guessing its just a separate option on mbm5...my case temp is really close to my cpu temp sometimes..
either that or its measuring ambient temp in your room...
either that or its measuring ambient temp in your room...
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2001
- Location
- Ottawa, Canada
maskedgeek said:
Yeh, I'll have to agree. I'm guessing Sensor 1 is your chipset perhaps? Try asking in AMD Abit Motherboards and see what other people with your board have to say.
Yodums
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2002
well does it change. there should be a header on the mobo for an external sensor (abit i know has em)
if its not plugged in sometimes it gives phony readings... or if it is plugged in find out what its taped to
if its not plugged in sometimes it gives phony readings... or if it is plugged in find out what its taped to
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2001
- Location
- Ottawa, Canada
BinarySuperman said:
Are you absolutely sure? With good airflow your mobo is only 2-3 degrees above ambient and that means your ambient when you posted that image was like 39 degrees so I highly doubt that? Do you AC or central air in your case controlling the room temps or so?
Yodums
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2002
- Location
- Montreal, Quebec
I have an ABIT KR7A-RAID, there is NO WAY your cpu is 1c over cpu with any kind of cooling. Either it is way lower with liquid nitrogen, or at best with air cooling about 15c more than mobo at full load. Do the math, it is IMPOSSIBLE for you to have air cooling and only a difference of 1c over your mobo. It just can't happen that way, the mathematics and the physics all scream NO WAY.
I have spent countless hours trying to get the BEST possible air cooling for my cpu. I have done many mods, cut all kinds of metal out of my case just to get 1 or 2 degrees cooler. The absolute best difference I have seen between mobo and cpu is 11c at idle and NO overclock. At full load my cpu is 17c above my mobo.
Sensor 1 has got to be your mobo. What you have listed as your mobo is probably your chipset sensor (if there is one on that board) or a crosslisted sensor. 18c is pretty good as a differential without lots of airflow through your case.
IF you want to know for sure why don't you try to enter BIOS and look at the PC Health status for confirmation.
I have spent countless hours trying to get the BEST possible air cooling for my cpu. I have done many mods, cut all kinds of metal out of my case just to get 1 or 2 degrees cooler. The absolute best difference I have seen between mobo and cpu is 11c at idle and NO overclock. At full load my cpu is 17c above my mobo.
Sensor 1 has got to be your mobo. What you have listed as your mobo is probably your chipset sensor (if there is one on that board) or a crosslisted sensor. 18c is pretty good as a differential without lots of airflow through your case.
IF you want to know for sure why don't you try to enter BIOS and look at the PC Health status for confirmation.
My Abit's have always had a 3rd sensor in MBM, and I could never get a straight answer as to what it is.
I will tell you it's easy to verify what's what. Load prime95, your cpu will shoot upwards 3-5 degrees minimum. To verify which is the motherboard temp, I used a piece of aquarium tubing and blew warm breath onto the area that the manual said had the temp sensor (near the battery..Don't spit!). You can watch the temps go up and down as you pass by it with the end of the tubing.
As for the third one, I usually end up just selecting not to display it, as I never did find it's sensor with the tubing. If it's a northbridge temp, stopping that little fan can verify that in a second or two.
Good luck man, and report back with what you can find, I'm curious too. Abit (AT7) also doesn't report voltages right for MBM, so I haven't reinstalled it since I got the new mobo. There's no way I could boot with 4 voltages less than half what they're supposed to be (3.3=1.8 etc).
I will tell you it's easy to verify what's what. Load prime95, your cpu will shoot upwards 3-5 degrees minimum. To verify which is the motherboard temp, I used a piece of aquarium tubing and blew warm breath onto the area that the manual said had the temp sensor (near the battery..Don't spit!). You can watch the temps go up and down as you pass by it with the end of the tubing.
As for the third one, I usually end up just selecting not to display it, as I never did find it's sensor with the tubing. If it's a northbridge temp, stopping that little fan can verify that in a second or two.
Good luck man, and report back with what you can find, I'm curious too. Abit (AT7) also doesn't report voltages right for MBM, so I haven't reinstalled it since I got the new mobo. There's no way I could boot with 4 voltages less than half what they're supposed to be (3.3=1.8 etc).
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2002
- Location
- Montreal, Quebec
I ignore (don't display) the third MBM sensor on my KR7A-RAID. Never could find the sensor and it always reported the same temps as my mobo.
I just assumed it was a crosslisted sensor, maybe a config problem with MBM.
I just assumed it was a crosslisted sensor, maybe a config problem with MBM.
OP
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2001
- Location
- NY
- Thread Starter
- #11
ok in pc health it says system temp is 39c and the cpu temp was 40c, now my question is, is system temp the temp of my motherboard? also i got a thermaltake smart fan 2 and it says the max rpm is 4800, but for some reason i see 5500 rpm, does anyone know why this is?
Your system temp should be your motherboard temp...stoopid engineers...clear as mud aren't they?
First, check in bios' pchealth to compare fan speed, then you can judge if MBM is the one reporting wrong or not. If they're the same, then MBM is correct.
If your 12volt line is a good and robust voltage, you just may be running that fan at a higher rpm naturally, and would need no adjustment. The maker may also rate the fan at lowered volts to get a better dB rating (but that would be dishonest
).
First, check in bios' pchealth to compare fan speed, then you can judge if MBM is the one reporting wrong or not. If they're the same, then MBM is correct.
If your 12volt line is a good and robust voltage, you just may be running that fan at a higher rpm naturally, and would need no adjustment. The maker may also rate the fan at lowered volts to get a better dB rating (but that would be dishonest
).
Yeah, like chrismacan said, you can't have a case temp 1º lower than your CPU temp, because the air going into you heatsink is the air inside your case.. and if the air inside your case was 41º, theres no way your CPU could be only 1º higher. And if your case was 41º, you need some desperate airflow. So im guessing that sensor one is your case(mobo) temp.
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2002
- Location
- Montreal, Quebec
There is one possible explanation for the close temps. If the thermistor underneath your cpu is either: 1) not making contact with the chip, in which case it should be bent upward a little so as to make contact. or 2) the thermistor is defective and reading the wrong temps. Can't do anything about this.
On some ASUS boards the temps are off by almost 10c usually to high. Maybe on your board this is what is happening.
If in PC Health Status it shows system at 41c and cpu at 42c then one of them is clearly wrong.
Maybe the system temp is too high by 10c, there is an option in MBM to report an effective temp, where you can subtract or add to the reported temp and MBM will display the reported plus or minus your margin.
On some ASUS boards the temps are off by almost 10c usually to high. Maybe on your board this is what is happening.
If in PC Health Status it shows system at 41c and cpu at 42c then one of them is clearly wrong.
Maybe the system temp is too high by 10c, there is an option in MBM to report an effective temp, where you can subtract or add to the reported temp and MBM will display the reported plus or minus your margin.
- Joined
- Sep 2, 2002
- Location
- Concord NC
just to let u know my cpu temps are 27c and mobo is 28c idle and 33 cpu and 30 mobo full load so ya u can do it
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2002
- Location
- Montreal, Quebec
TLKfatman said:
How are you measuring your temps?
Based on everything I know, which is not everything, it is impossible to dissipate that much heat with air cooling.
The BEST heatsinks on the market right now have a C/W rating of .17 or so on mobos.
This is from our website. It is attached to every heatsink review.
PLEASE read it and tell me again it is possible. If it is truly possible that you have accuarately measured your temps as you have listed them I would love to duplicate your results.
Even if your cpu radiates only 50w an increase of 3c means your HSF as a C/W of .06 -----> that would be WAY better than water cooling and is therefore impossible.
PS the ATHLON cpus radiate MORE THAN 50w.
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2002
- Location
- Montreal, Quebec
BinarySuperman said:
If you go and look in the cooling forum, which is where I got my info last year, I am sure you will get confirmation.
But, yes, I took my mobo thermistor and bent it up slightly, the key here is slightly, so that it can make contact with the cpu and better record my temps.
It meant that I had to push my cpu into the ZIF socket with a tiny amount of force beacuse the thermistor offered a little bit of resistance.
I have done this with at least 15 computers I have built for clients and family.
Oh yes, that thermister needs to be touching the backside of the processor or it will just be measuring the air temperature inside the socket.
It's also recommended that you add a dab of you fav thermal compund to the tip of it so it's contact to the cpu is the best.
I lift the thermister slightly before installing the cpu, and use the slight pressure of installing the cpu to bend the thermister back into the socket, this makes sure it's still touching.
It's also recommended that you add a dab of you fav thermal compund to the tip of it so it's contact to the cpu is the best.
I lift the thermister slightly before installing the cpu, and use the slight pressure of installing the cpu to bend the thermister back into the socket, this makes sure it's still touching.
