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What cpu fan it is?

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so 7 days ago i exchanged battery and cleaned up my PC. For 7 days everything worked fine, but today when i tried to start PC it started booting for 0,1s and then stopped. I had to turn off and turn off power button and then i could boot it again. Is this a sign that something in my PC is dying?
 
Did you have a power failure in your area? Sometimes with power failures/brown-outs the psu will lose it's constant charge which will result in what you explained. Turning off the psu, then tuning it back on again will reset the psu into constant stand-by mode.
 
I didn't unless it was at night and i didn't know about that :) I guess i'll have to exchange my psu if it will repeat again
When i was talking about turning on and off pc i meant using psu power button.
 
Solution i found for now is to turn off extension cord for 10minutes+. Then i can boot my PC and it will work without any problems until i turn it off. Today i started from exchanging basics - extension cord. And suprisingly after switching cables it worked. So i turned off PC for 15 min to see if it will boot and than most bizzare thing. When i turned on PC it didn't boot. When i was wondering why 5-7 seconds later PC booted itself. Any idea what can cause such a weird symptom?
 
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My experience says that this is a power supply issue. It will only get worse until it just spins the fans for a second and never boots up at all. I would really look into that. We can give you a good idea if that is actually the problem if you can tell us about the power supply.

What brand? What wattage? How old is it? That's a big one in diagnosing a PS. Is it running the computer in your sig?
do you have another power supply that you can use to test with?
 
Unfortunately i don't remember when i was changing my PSU, but not lately so probably 3-4 years ago. On sticker there is descritpion "atx 12v v2.3 total output 510w". I can't find buying history on my e-mail :( Unfortunately i don't have spare power supply.
Currently I'm testing it with different extension cords and main electrical contact and it looks like when i put cable in contact i wasn't using lately then PC boots.
 
As i understand that my PSU might be dying can anyone give me a reasonable explanation why it boots when i change extension cord?

Edit: Sorry for two posts, i thought that it will merge.
 
So i'm preparing to buy new psu. I discovered that my psu is named Logic 510W. I saw some black lists where this psu was enlisted. But my PC worked for at least 4 years until i get this bad idea to overclock. Is there some real risk if i just buy the same new psu?
I don't do any complicated things on my PC.
 
It will likely boot if you don't have any overclocking set up as your sig shows no extremely high wattage components. You can set your BIOS to default settings and give it a try. If it boots several times in succession you may be on your way to an answer.
 
Things got complicated today because problem dissapeared. Since yesterday pc is connected directly to electrical contact not through extension cord. So now i don't even have a way to test it :)
Btw. can u tell if AUX temp at 50C is too high? I was checking my pc temps in SpeedFan and there's a flame icon around AUX temp while doing simple stuff. While idle it's around 46.
View attachment 211310
 
There are plenty of knowledgeable people here... and we have a list (older, indeed), of quality PSUs for reference in the PSU section...



I found out old psu from my old PC in closet but it has low wattage. It's Altis 300W. Is it enough for testing?

That said, Altis 300W sounds incredibly scary. No idea who the OEM is, but the brand I do not recognize and 300W is low. Same with your Logis brand unit. Both are likely trash or barely serviceable.

The bottom line is not to get a POS power supply. You never want to cheap out or you increase risk (sometimes significantly) of the PSU going down and taking your PC or some parts with it. Im glad your PSUs worked... but I wouldn't push my luck.

That said, for the machine in your signature, a quality 550W unit is plenty. What is your budget for a power supply?


Speedfan is... old and not sure it works well even with your hardware. Run something like Hwmonitor and check the details. No clue what "Aux" represents on that software. I stopped using it a decade ago as it was never terribly accurate or informative.
 
There's no budget. Budget for PSU will be taken from Food Budget.
I wanted to use Altis only to check it PC will start. I wanted to boot PC even without graphics card with lowest possible wattage needed only to check if it was my current psu was failing.
Btw. i added new post a second before yours with miniupdate so u might not noticed it.

Edit:

Speedfan is... old and not sure it works well even with your hardware. Run something like Hwmonitor and check the details. No clue what "Aux" represents on that software. I stopped using it a decade ago as it was never terribly accurate or informative.

I was checking it with both and both have the same results. Just flame icon was scaring ;)
 
The altis will work to check if it powers on. I wouldn't do much else with it (with either, honestly).

I saw that update before I posted. My last paragraph addresses it, in fact... :)

This is a high-quality (Tier1) 550W unit - https://www.newegg.com/seasonic-focus-plus-550-gold-ssr-550fx-550w/p/N82E16817151189
Serviceable, cheaper, and likely still a lot better than what you've listed - https://www.newegg.com/evga-550-b5-220-b5-0550-v1-550w/p/N82E16817438167




EDIT:
I was checking it with both and both have the same results. Just flame icon was scaring
Just stop using it... :p :thup:
 
Yeah, currently buying psu from this price range is too much food to resign :p
 
I'm currently looking at Chieftec iArena 500W. I'm just waiting until problem come back so i can test old one.
 
Chieftec is generally trash too. :(

They have some decent units but I have no idea which ones are good.

I THINK yours is made by Channel Well Tech, which means it may be OK. That said, it's a 500W unit with only 400W on the 12V rail. Modern PSUs have nearly all of their output on the 12V rail (what modern PCs use).
 
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