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What to buy for WCing an FX 6300

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Don't buy someone's used waterblock unless they give you all the parts. Chasing down brackets is non-sense.

Well block and pump would be bought new, rad and res I'd ask in the classies I was thinking :)

Anyways, here's my carts.
I tried to make sure I wasn't mixing metals..

Liking Preformance PC's pricing :D
Preformance-PC.PNG

Swiftech. Just need to find a res...
Swiftech.PNG

Dazmode
Dazmode.PNG


Would these part work together?
I also figured that a dual 120mm res would do?

Shipping will be USPS for where ever I end up ordering. Hope I don't get dinged by duty though.. :(
 
Go with performance-pcs with USPS as already stated.

If you want a little bling and don't mind spending it up a bit, check out the Monsoon Series Two dual bay reservoirs that are either D5 or DDC compatible. Of course you'd have to pick the right res for the right pump and color theme. (Not sure if the newer MCP-50X will work with that reservoir since its a bit bigger in size as apposed to the MCP-35x.) If you want to stick with a cylinder reservoir, have a look at the XSPC Photons.

CPU block looks great but I like acetal as I have the black version of that block. Acrylic makes me nervous but that's just me. :screwy:

Radiator is low FPI but if you want to sleep with noise, why not grab a higher FPI radiator like the Black Ice GTX Nemesis (240mm?) line, as they just came out with a new gen. recently. It's 16 FPI as opposed to the lower 8-11 FPI rads in the market.

Tubing - PrimoChill Advanced LRT with your own choice of color for your theme build if you do.

Fittings - Barbs or compression fittings. Obviously compression are going to cost more.

Fans - Helix120s (PWM or not is up to you) as they are audible when full blast but not that loud so I am not sure what sound you want or you could even go with something even cheaper and have a higher range but aren't so silent.

Distilled water and a silver coil or in liquid form deadwater is all you need than.

What ever you choose to do, make sure you do measurements to make sure the water cooling components will fit.


Just in case you need a little crash course, here's a nice video to refresh your memory, assuming you've read the intro to water cooling stickies but figured you've been around long enough that you've read many posts about this stuff in general and have become familiar with.

 
Dazmode block is old EK tech I think ..... maybe BP but am leaning towards EK. It would do for you for now but if you upgrade you would probably be looking for an upgrade. The PE rad you chose is a high density rad .... see below ..... and also uses extenders, though not a big issue there is the possibility of them coming loose if you change parts allot but is not as big a deal as the high density fin spacing.

The swiftech rad you chose has a pump built in ......

The pump you chose in the performance PC list ..... me personally would avoide ...... think a D5 variant at least.

Besides that not bad.

You forgot fittings and tube which can add another 60 - 100. Kill coil or biocide ? both are pretty cheap. Fans ? Need to be matched to you rad, ******depending on your rad choice****** EK 240PE is a high density rad requiring a better fan compared to the say acool UT60 or UT30. You might pay more for the red but it will be easier to match fans to the rad. Compression fittings will run you about 7 each + or bards a bit cheaper + clamps, some use zip ties ..... I'm not sold on rip ties but that's just me.
 
Thanks guys!

Lemme shop around some more at Preformance PC. I'll switch some stuff around.

Yeah I didn't include fitting and hoses on purpose.
Does it matter which fittings to get? Barbs are a bit cheaper, but I worry about leaks. Though, I think I'm being over protective since barb fittings are used on lot of stuff anyway. Weed eaters, cars etc :p

Dye is a no-go. I don't need all that hassle, would coloured tubing suffice?
 
I agree with Bassnut on the Ek 4.0 pump, I actually have that pump from an older wc setup. It works fine but it really doesn't have great head pressure and it makes a vibrating sound that can be annoying. The D5 Varios I have are set at #3 pumping speed and are nearly in audible.

As far as the Helix fans I also agree with GTXJB they are nice fans. Sometimes I feel people get the wrong impression on fans and take Db readings to heart. It's not always how loud a fan is but the quality of the sound. The helix fans can be heard at 100% but make more of a whoosh sound which is more pleasant then the chopping of some others. I also have BitFenix Spectre LED Pwm fans these to be exact. They have slightly less static pressure then the Helix fans but are equivalent in sound quality.

For a Cpu block, I like my Ekwb ones, I have the Ekwb Supreme Hf and the Supremecy. Having the universal fitting is nice, so if down the road you can swap it onto an Intel chip without buying extra parts.
 
I agree with Bassnut on the Ek 4.0 pump, I actually have that pump from an older wc setup. It works fine but it really doesn't have great head pressure and it makes a vibrating sound that can be annoying. The D5 Varios I have are set at #3 pumping speed and are nearly in audible.

As far as the Helix fans I also agree with GTXJB they are nice fans. Sometimes I feel people get the wrong impression on fans and take Db readings to heart. It's not always how loud a fan is but the quality of the sound. The helix fans can be heard at 100% but make more of a whoosh sound which is more pleasant then the chopping of some others. I also have BitFenix Spectre LED Pwm fans these to be exact. They have slightly less static pressure then the Helix fans but are equivalent in sound quality.

For a Cpu block, I like my Ekwb ones, I have the Ekwb Supreme Hf and the Supremecy. Having the universal fitting is nice, so if down the road you can swap it onto an Intel chip without buying extra parts.

Okay, so no EK 4.0 pump.

Those Helix fans look good, and yeah the choppy noise of fans suck as well as vibrations lol. Sounds like a winner of a fan the me! :)
Thinking of the Swiftech Apogee XL, clear of course with a blue LED.

Now, I don't know about the res size... I want a cylinder res as I can easily mount it outside my case. But, I don't know if this res is too small?

I dunno. Bottom port would feed the pump, top would be return from rad. Should I also fill the res right up to the top? If not I think it would be cool to see the water falling like a water fall back into the res :)
 
100ml res is fine there are no real advantage to huge tube res.

Cool, cool. That's good to hear. 'casue the 100ml res I linked will fit perfectly on the side of my case without sticking out the top. :)
 
on the res, if you are going to put a block on the gpu also you have to turn the pump up some, this can cause a vortex in the short tube res, it happens if the res is 100-125mm tall or less.
I use the 250ml bits power res, it's huge and very hard to mount in the case so i mount it on the back of my podium with my rads.
 
on the res, if you are going to put a block on the gpu also you have to turn the pump up some, this can cause a vortex in the short tube res, it happens if the res is 100-125mm tall or less.
I use the 250ml bits power res, it's huge and very hard to mount in the case so i mount it on the back of my podium with my rads.

Just watched a youtube vid on that :-/
Didn't think if that....
A Vortex would allow air into the loop wouldn't it? Crap.... maybe a larger res then. Or low pump speed.

So I just bought some parts from Bassnut:
Black Ice Stealth GTS 240 and a D5 pump + an EK D5 pump top and some assorted fittings! :thup: (Thanks again Bassnut!)

Need to pick up a res + block + tubing then once it all arrives, I'll sketch up a drawing for a new frame case :)
 
Rigid or soft tubing?

I love how you can make neat 90° bends, make the setup look great, but I'm concerned about reduce flow...
I suppose I could use 45° bends instead....

Or should I use soft tubing and still make the 90° bends as I please?
 
My suggestion with tubing is get either 3/8" id x 5/8" od or 1/2" id x 3/4" od. I find the thin walled stuff kinks too easily! You may want to hold off buying bends until you have everything and visually see how you're going route things.
 
Those barbs and clamps I tossed in are all for 1/2" - 3/4" soft tubing. I was like you loved the look of ridged tube but it is ...... PITA especially if you tend to change parts or fiddle. The bends are brittle from heating even if you are just swaping ram you can break a bend or as in my case where a bubble was in my bend that started leaking which cost me 2 ASUS GTX560 442 core Video cards due to a leak.

FORGET about ridged ...... get some good soft tubing ...... Primochill seems to be the popular choice now I think GTX mentioned it above.
 
My suggestion with tubing is get either 3/8" id x 5/8" od or 1/2" id x 3/4" od. I find the thin walled stuff kinks too easily! You may want to hold off buying bends until you have everything and visually see how you're going route things.
Good idea. I'd rather not buy all the stuff and not have enough or too much.
Those barbs and clamps I tossed in are all for 1/2" - 3/4" soft tubing. I was like you loved the look of ridged tube but it is ...... PITA especially if you tend to change parts or fiddle. The bends are brittle from heating even if you are just swaping ram you can break a bend or as in my case where a bubble was in my bend that started leaking which cost me 2 ASUS GTX560 442 core Video cards due to a leak.

FORGET about ridged ...... get some good soft tubing ...... Primochill seems to be the popular choice now I think GTX mentioned it above.

Yes, I've been looking at the primochill UV Blue at Preformance PC after I realized rigid is a PITA and needs compression fittings - not barbs.

Any likes or gripes about the block and res I picked? Also, are those prices in USD or CAD?
I picked out the 150mm res rather than the smaller 100mm. I can make it work with the new case. :)
Block&res.PNG


I picked the EK Supremacy block because it seemed to preform better than the Swiftech Apogee XL in some reviews plus I can add some LED's to the block after I figure out how to wire LED's from my PSU. :confused:

Or are there better blocks that don't break the bank?
 
clamps? I ain't got no clamps..... hey I don't use no stinking clamps.....
and i don't, all the leaks that I have had have all been at the stinking "o" rings and i have reduced those greatly by lubing them with pledge furiture polish, it's wax and keeps the rubber "o" ring from rolling while I screw the barb down to seal it then when I have all the tubes cut to fit I heat the barbs up good and warm with a heat gun and slip the tubes on, but clamps might make you feel better.



(earthdog!!!!!! the automagical is broken!!!!!!)
 
All the blocks are great. Which ever one you pick is fine, including the XL. Its all in aesthetics really.

I'd look to grab the smaller tubing with angled barb fittings as it will make your loop easier and look cleaner. The shortest and cleanest loop is more efficient.

Make sure when installing your reservoir, that your pump is being fed by the reservoir naturally. That's the only part of the loop order I would stress about. :salute:

Since you bought a 30 FPI radiator (GT Stealth), make sure you grab some REALLY high static fans. Now you're in the 2000-3000 RPM range. Don't grab the helix120s now since they are designed for low to mid FPI rads and not against a 30 FPI rad. Again, for that rad to run efficiently you'll need 2k-3k.

Also, make sure to add a drain (lowest part of your loop) to your loop to make maintenance easier.
 
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