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Best ATI/Radeon HD6000 series temperature software

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They did temperature tests for the VRMs with the stock reference cooler on the 6970. The stock cooler actually does very well on the VRMs so I decided to cut my reference cooler in half (well, more like 1/3) and bolt it down so the VRMs are cooled w/ the stock heatsink for it.

Ive never had an issue so far :D
 
They did temperature tests for the VRMs with the stock reference cooler on the 6970. The stock cooler actually does very well on the VRMs so I decided to cut my reference cooler in half (well, more like 1/3) and bolt it down so the VRMs are cooled w/ the stock heatsink for it.

Ive never had an issue so far :D

But then I won't be able to RMA if I have any issues unrelated to overclocking. Not even sure I'm going to OC just yet, but I wanted it on water to be quiet and for better cooling.

grumper, thanks for the offer but I think I have thermal epoxy somewhere (if it hasn't dried out)... just don't want to ruin the future of the card. If I go to sell it, I'll never be able to put the stock cooler back on.

I too have Seksui thermal tape, but I didn't push out the bubbles the way you did... how do you do that without something sticking to the tape?

My RAMsinks hold CRAZY STRONG with that thermal tape... it's just the vregs with less surface area that are tougher to do.
 
The tape I received had paper on each side (with some kind of quasi-nonstick coating), so I just pressed the back of the paper with the heatsink attached to the other side of the tape. I would think you could use something like wax paper as well if you needed something to press it against.

Yeah this Sekisui tape is just loads better than the 3M junk I used to use. The VREGs should be manageable as long as they've been cleaned well, and you heat up the copper with a hairdryer to force them to start bonding. I only really had trouble with the top two really small VREG's, which were hard to clean well with the eraser due to their size.
 
The tape I received had paper on each side (with some kind of quasi-nonstick coating), so I just pressed the back of the paper with the heatsink attached to the other side of the tape. I would think you could use something like wax paper as well if you needed something to press it against.

Yeah this Sekisui tape is just loads better than the 3M junk I used to use. The VREGs should be manageable as long as they've been cleaned well, and you heat up the copper with a hairdryer to force them to start bonding. I only really had trouble with the top two really small VREG's, which were hard to clean well with the eraser due to their size.
I use arcticlean #1 and #2. #2 really makes the surface un-gooed (sp?) --> it gives it the rough/rubbery feel pretty much.

Yes, the top two are tough. That's the one I keep touching and the heatsink feels a little loose on it, though it holds and the machine works fine... it's just that I'm afraid to game on it.
 
I was a bit nervous with mine the first couple days, but with the C1's I haven't really worried about it. I would probably be a bit more concerned with low profile joined heatsinks like those to be honest though.

I need to look into some Arcticlean.
 
I was a bit nervous with mine the first couple days, but with the C1's I haven't really worried about it. I would probably be a bit more concerned with low profile joined heatsinks like those to be honest though.

I need to look into some Arcticlean.
Yeah, that's why I haven't played any games yet...

Arcticlean is worth the $$. Makes life much easier!
 
I should be getting some more C1's in a trade in the next few days, so I need to find something else to sink lol.. they're pretty solid performers for being like 5bux on eBay.

I stopped trusting anything not made of copper after my 4870 went kaput. It was probably unrelated given the circumstances, but aluminum heatsinks just don't work as well (unless you're talking about massive CPU blocks then aluminum's good stuff due to weight concerns & heatpipes).
 
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