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Fferrett's WC Worklog - Ongoing

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Fferrett

Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2006
Location
Powell, Ohio, USA
OK.. finally some of my parts have begun arriving. Somehow whenever I choose something... it's not in stock. The rad isn't mounted on the top but is sitting there until I get another cutting wheel for my dremel. The PA120.3 is a definitely a fatboy rad - deeper than I anticipated, but will fit in the case's mucho headroom. I've removed all of the factory fans and airflow ports to see what I have to work with.

First pic:


Parts so far:

Lian-li PC-G70 - I'm lovin the space and layout.
Thermochill PA120.3 Rad - Mounting inside top in the 2nd PSU location headroom
Thermochill FG120.3 Grill - nothing else fits this rad except single 12cm grills
(6) Scythe 12cm FDB SSF21F Fans - Quiet Fans..
Enermax Liberty 620 - mounting in bottom PSU bay

Parts will be trickling in -- I'm in no rush and want to enjoy the process. I'll update this worklog as I have more pictures and progress.

Plans:

Quiet Airflow -- All fans on this rig are 12cm. The front inlet fan is currently the only forced inlet of air. With the 3 fans pushing on the Pa120.3 up through the top of the rig and the PSU, Side fan over the GPU card, and the back case fan exhausting, that's a lot of negative internal pressure. I'm going to investigate on replacing the top PSU exhaust hole to a inlet vent with filter to feed the Rad cool air. I also may close off the side fan in search of better airflow... comments welcome.


I've removed the (3) factory lian-li fans (model LI121225BL-4 DC12V, 0.27A). May use them on another rig in the future. Haven't even powered them to check for noise/CFMs - I wanted the long 150k MTBF quiet Scythe fans for this beast.


All fans will be undervolted for quiet flow. Recommendations on a 6 Fan or 3 channel controller are welcome. I'm into the VFD or LCD panels and want to integrate something with a coolness factor.


WC -- I'm doing a 7/16" tubing solution with a D5 pump and T-line and bottom drain. I've been waiting (patiently?) for DD to introduce the new x19 ATI block and will continue to do so. The CPU block will likekly be a Swiftech Apogee.


QUIET!!! - Looking into the different materials available for case dampening. Mostly to stifle the pump and hard disks. While I'm striving for a tidy interior of this case for the low CFM airflow, there's not going to be a window or lights. I'm just trying to build system that's extremely powerful and as quiet as an electric baseboard radiator. I'm don't plan on having a stream of visitors in my den oggling my rig. No lanpartys for me.



'Puter - Oh yeah, I need something to be cooled now. It will be a:

D9xx Intel CPU
ATI x19xx GPU (no SLI)
4) SATA2 500GB Drives in a 1TB Raid 1+0 setup.
Soundblaster cheapest X-fi XtremeMusic.
2GB of the fast 1GB DDR2 sticks.
Powercolor Theater 550 Analog Tuner
DVD+RW with lightscribe
Fan controller, LCD/VFD panel for subtle bling factor, media/3.5" drive, etc.
Enermax Liberty 620 PSU -- very nice PSU - Quiet, Modular, stable power, Active PFC, and efficient. Just have to wonder.. whats' up with the gold fangrill??


Can't say enough about this Lian-Li pc-G70 case... Simple, elegant, and nice layout for this type of setup.

System goal? Quiet Work / Game / TV everything but the kitchen sink rig that will last a few years. May get a cheap D920 and mainboard until the Conroe comes out in the fall. This case and cooling solution should be able to handle the majority of semi-OC BTU's thrown at it.

Comments welcome and sought.
 
omg that looks fun. please let me know about how you like the liberty once you have it running, I've been looking for a silent PSU that isn't as deep as the powerstreams, that also has modular cables.

also, doesn't DD already have a 1900 block out? http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=217&cat=47&page=1

For airflow, consider having the rad blowing into the case, then you have the front and rear 120 as well as the PSU exhausting. Hello positive case pressure and cooler air to the rad.
 
Last edited:
veryhumid said:
omg that looks fun. please let me know about how you like the liberty once you have it running, I've been looking for a silent PSU that isn't as deep as the powerstreams, that also has modular cables.

also, doesn't DD already have a 1900 block out? http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=217&cat=47&page=1

For airflow, consider having the rad blowing into the case, then you have the front and rear 120 as well as the PSU exhausting. Hello positive case pressure and cooler air to the rad.

You're right.. the Tyeeeee IS out. I've been waiting to see a link on the front page, must have missed it. Another part found.

As for reversing the airflow, I've considered that, but I find it difficult to figure out how to effectively filter the incoming air into the rad externally without hindering flow into the rad, I'm thinking that a filtered screen in place of the top psu will allow cool inlet air and not introduce the heat from the rad back into the case. I'm fairly concerned about ambient case temperature with that x1900 and 4 SATA disks. I may also reverse the airflow on the side fan adding a filter there as well. Top exhaust seems to be the least resistance to me.

These are good ideas...
 
Subscribed*

Is the tubing 7/16 ID? If so, you ever try mounting that on 1/2 barbs? I'm jumping into WC'ing as well and just got my rad and tubing...I can't get it on the barb lol.
 
trick is to soak it in some very hot water (get some boiling in the microwave) for a few seconds to soften it up. If that doesn't do it, a flathead screwdriver and an extra pair of hands in combination with the hot water will get it.
 
Ahhh thanks, I was trying to do something like that and have it slide down, started to work until I dropped it ;)
 
I used a heat gun held on the 7/16" tube for about 10-15 sec and slipped on with no problems. I initially tried the water bet it kept getting cold on me while I was working on tube cutting/connecting.
 
heat guns can easily melt the tubing (atleast mine did). I keep hot water in a thermos so it stay hot while i instal the tubing.

Sometimes i make a 45 angle on the edge of the tubing. That also helps. Hopefully you get what i mean...
 
the masterkleer is also really good

if you use 7/16 tubing w/ 1/8 walls then you wont "need" to use clamps, but u can for extra saftety. The tubing has a pretty tight fit, which helps it create a better seal. You will not see any reduction in flow since most barbs have an id of less than 7/16. This tubing is also much easeir to route around the case.
 
nachosyumm said:
the masterkleer is also really good

if you use 7/16 tubing w/ 1/8 walls then you wont "need" to use clamps, but u can for extra saftety. The tubing has a pretty tight fit, which helps it create a better seal. You will not see any reduction in flow since most barbs have an id of less than 7/16. This tubing is also much easeir to route around the case.


I'll second that. and I'll add if you go with PushOn barbs it'll be all the better...you'll definitely not need any clamps then - they're actually designed not to use clamps.

like the other posters said use real hot water and work fast. try not to let it cool down too fast as it will take a large amount of force to get the tubing on once it cools down.
 
CoreGamer said:
Lol....Btw that rad is a beast, I dont think Ive seen one so thick
The matrix itself isn't all that thick, it's the sideplates (which fold to become the fan mounts) that make it appear so deep. Thermochill mounts the fans a good distance from the core itself, (theoretically) eliminating the need for a shroud.

It's a great bit 'o kit and works well with undervolted/lower CFM fans.
 
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