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Neco said:
Well personally I'd still like to know how to wire the damn thing....


If you take the brown wire from the pump and hook it to the yellow wire from you powersupply on the molex connector and hook the black wire from the pump to the black wire just beside the yellow on the molex you will have the right connection for the pump to work at 12 volt instead of the 13.8 that the specs say it should have. There is still plenty of power and this reduced voltage will make the pump last longer.
good luck
 
WALMART kinda like KMART except not going out of business. hehe

So how big is that thing, anyone please!!!
 
f155mph said:
WALMART kinda like KMART except not going out of business. hehe

So how big is that thing, anyone please!!!

The base is about 3 inches in diameter. It is cone shaped so the top round is about 2 inches diameter. It is about 4 inches tall. and very light.
 
Yea.


It's pretty much has the girth of a 12 oz soda can, and is a little over half as tall.

the mount that the pump can sit on makes it a little bigger around the bottom half tho.
 
oh..

I was just thinking


I have my fan from my XP1500+ and it has a mobo header..


if I snipped the wires and hooked them up to my pump would it work off my mobo ?

and more importantly do you guys think it would be safe ?

I am assuming the worst that could happen is it fries the mobo header only ???

would save me a buck or two to try that
 
dont do that. not enough amps on the board. if you got an extra 4 pin on your PS then you could cut it off and wire it directly. go get some small wire nuts at home depot to connect to the (used to be) 4 pin. Or tape if your cheap.
 
Wait a minute.
Now that water is heavy stuff... and 500 gallons is like 4000 pounds...

So... i am thinking you need to see the amps on the pump.
then look at the amps on your PS.

I am just gonna guess you aint gonna connect it to your PS.

well you can connect it but i guess you will need to disconnect it when you buy a new PS.

But tell us about the amps, i might have it wrong.

Now i just read your first post again and all i can say is that pump either cant handle any head or there is no way it's 1.4A
 
UserName said:
Wait a minute.
Now that water is heavy stuff... and 500 gallons is like 4000 pounds...

So... i am thinking you need to see the amps on the pump.
then look at the amps on your PS.

I am just gonna guess you aint gonna connect it to your PS.

well you can connect it but i guess you will need to disconnect it when you buy a new PS.

But tell us about the amps, i might have it wrong.

Now i just read your first post again and all i can say is that pump either cant handle any head or there is no way it's 1.4A

Its a 16.8 watt pump, it might be a bit on the low side but
I do think it is correct.

You need to remember 500GPH is at 0 foot lift, kinda like not
having any hoses or anything on the inputs & outputs.
But even the 500 is proboably over the actual spec, the
pump manuf. may just be rounding to the highest posible level,
to help sell more pumps.
The pump may be a 150-360 or so when applied to a computer
application with all the adapters and such.
 
so i am gonna sit here and shut up.

but one last thing.:D

if i was you i'd try a 1 foot lift flow test too see how it does.

are the ehimes the same wattage?

all right two things
:p
 
13.6 VDC - 1.5ampere
- I beleive that is 20.4 watts ?

tho it will be at 12 volt. so again if my math is correct 18 watts.

it is 500gph @ 0 lift. and at 3.3ft lift it is in the 300's range (somewhere around 350 or 60 I think)

find attwoods website and you can find the specs for the pump either way.

I forgot the site myself... but if you wanna look it's V500 - model 4204

I think my PSU will do fine on it.. I guess I'll find out when I blow something up or burn the house down or something


:D
 
no no your fine. I was all wet.:D

if it can do 3' at 300GPH for 10$ i'm gonna go get 2 tomarrow.

Thats the best deal since the PVC cap direct die water block.

1500 hours is about 10 weeks at 24x7. i guess we'll find out in 3 months if it's ok.

can you take it apart?
 
You can try a lift test but I can be almost
sure that it will be fine in a, mid to full tower,
with no more than 4-6 blocks totle, and 1 or
maybe 2 radiators.

If you try a lift test, try testing it at a 2-3 foot
lift, this will more acuratly see how the pump
will preform in the most interesting of conditions
in a computer.

Also the hoses should be arranged so the radiator
is first, then the block that is in the highest location
and then make your way down, with the pump at
the bottom.
 
alright guys
i'm getting my stuff to convert the pump outlet to a 3/8" tube and to convert my firebird heater core inlet/outlets to 3/8" tubes
i'm gonna hook up the 1.4amp pump and a couple radiator fans to an old AT power supply and run it for as long as i can
i'm gonna run a basic circuit (pump, reservoir, water block, radiator) 24/7
if it makes it for a few months (yes, MONTHS), i'll trust a NEW Attwood V500 pump for my computer
if not, well, i won't use that pump
everybody else using bilge pumps, please keep us posted:p
 
remember guys that this bilge pump is rated for 5/8 in flow in the most adverse conditions. Salt water and oil content in the bottom of a boat. Also from very hot to frigid water. None of these will be the condition of the pump in our computers. Instead of 13.8 volts mine is running at 12 volts. This alone will extend the life of the pump. I also put a rheostat to slow the pump down even further probably about 6 or 7 watts because it is running at about half speed. This will extend the life also. When you reduce the outlet to 3/8 " barb again the pump isnt having to work at load to move that amount of water. With all these factors I do believe the life of the ATTWOOD V 500 will be considerably longer than 1500 hours. After all in a submerged setup the pump is cooled by the water, reduced wattage to the coils and very clean antiseptic water conditions make for the optimum life expectancy of this pump. WE WILL C soon enough. I have mine running as we speak.
 
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