FREEZER extension WHAT!?!!!

[doyousmoke]

typical 5000 btu AC is around 500 watts... saw a nice one that was around 450 watts. either way. you guys are right... separate breakers

 

[txus.palacios]

Cooling Output: 5000 BTU
Room Size: 100-300 sq. ft.
Features: 2-Way Air Directional Control, Removable Filter, Mechanical Rotary Control
Includes: Mounting Hardware
Number of Cooling Speeds: 3
Number of Fan Speeds: 3
Amps Required: 0. amps <<-----is somthing wrong here???????
Volts Required: 115.0 V
$149.09

Frigidaire 5000 BTU Mini Window Air Conditioner - White (paint it black, throw some led's on it, glitter, whatever floats your boat)

and i plan on having the radiator inside the mini fridge now. where before, when i didnt understand delta temp in relation to the rooms temp etc, i wanted the radiator before the fridge. now i would rather the ac do all the work

40 bucks says it's just undocumented. No way a device like that consumes zero amps. Just because zero amps is no electricity at all. And that's hard. Waaaay hard.

 

[m0r7if3r]

Maybe it's made entirely out of superconductors

 

[txus.palacios]

Maybe it's made entirely out of superconductors

Who knows!!

 

[doyousmoke]

think it's just a misprint... typical 5000 btu ac's gonna be around 4 or 5 amps. i went to the store and had to check the AC units themselves for wattage, amps, volts etc. that crap wasnt even on the boxes for some reason. i thought about rolling around on the floor too

 

[Bobnova]

So how are you going to control the water temp?
If it can keep 1300w at room temp it will go really, really, really cold really, really fast at idle.

 

[doyousmoke]

So how are you going to control the water temp?
If it can keep 1300w at room temp it will go really, really, really cold really, really fast at idle.

cool thing about these ac units is they have a fan mode... no ac, just air

easy as that

or like i was saying before, a kill switch plugged into the outlet triggered by temp.. just plug the ac unit into that kill switch and have your sensor for the kill switch in your loop just after the AC/radiator combo

but i think just switching the ac back to fan mode when A: youre at idle or B: youre getting too close to ambient, would be easy and more than effective enough

****the only reason i see a need for a temp controled kill switch is if you fit into both of these groups. --my computer will be at max load while im not there and i NEED ac to do this, --the minimum setting the ac provides, if left on for too long, drops your loop below ambient

nobody likes to sit around while prime95 runs, but if you pay attention and take notes, you should be able to figure out the rate of cooling in your loop.... that way you know about how long before you need to be there to shut the ac off

had to add this edit ****** Asus JJ says dont use prime95 on Ivy bridge. both he and intel (so jj says) recommend aida64 and cinebench for stressing your processor. maybe prime will come out with a version that knows how to test all of Ivy bridge's features and doesnt synthetically stress it to death

 

[Bobnova]

Some refrigeration units don't appreciate being restarted right after shutting down, other than that such a plan ought to work.
How do you plan to do it?

 

[doyousmoke]

the ac should be able to turn on and off in the amount of time i need it to... the fridge i decided i wont plug in 'cause it's not needed. i just want the fridge cause it looks cool for what i need it for.. if i built a semi-airtight box that opens on hinges, i dont even wanna know how much i'd spend or how it'd look

once i have some solid plans or blueprints, i'll be sure to share