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Gaming/general use parts list

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Zerileous

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2002
Hi, I know there are a lot of these but I just wanted to post a parts list to see if I can garner any feedback before I make final decisions. Looking for a budget in the $2000 ballpark. I will probably get pushed over this a bit. I'm coming from a laptop so I need peripherals (except for a mouse). The general purpose is going to be gaming and general use. Occasional photo editing but not frequent enough to make a demand for more cores. The goal is a moderate overclock and very low noise with a custom loop water cooling. I haven't built or overclocked in over a decade, so if some of my parts are going to be a weak link, or an unnecessary expense, I'd like to know about it now.

Chassis: Lian Li PC 011 dynamic
Water cooling custom loop (see this thread for details)

AMD Ryzen 2600 (considering going to +, I believe they are binned for higher performance and this is still a pretty new manufacturing process)

ASUS ROG Strix x470 F gaming (not sure if B450 would be good enough, mostly worried about OC performance. Plus the B450 doesn't support SLI. No plans to SLI right now but with an nvidia card it seems silly to get a board that can't do it)

Geforce GTX 1070ti (considering upgrading to 2070 to help with future performance, currently just going to use 1080p)

2x 8GB G.Skill Trident DDR4 3200 with CL 16 and 16-16-16 timings. (I believe the tight timings are important to OC performance, if not I could save some money with 16-18-18)

Crucial MX500 2.5" 1TB SATA III 3D NAND (don't think I need the speed of M.2, plus this is the same price as a 250gb M.2 + 1 TB HD)

Seasonic Flagship Prime Series SSR-750PD 750W Platinum (possibly could drop this to 650w, just wanted the extra headroom given water cooling and possible future upgrades)

Monitor: I am tempted to get this IPS from Dell (S2319H Black/Silver 23" 5ms (GTG), 8ms (normal)), but it doesn't have a high refresh or hardware sync options or fast refresh or high hz). I don't necessarily need to see >60fps (doubt I would notice) but I don't want to experience sync problems gaming either. That said I'm also considering these gaming monitors, but I would give up on IPS: MSI Optix G24C (144hz, 4ms, VA panel) as an upgrade option, or Acer XF251Q (144hz, 1ms, TN panel) to avoid problems gaming. I will eventually be going dual monitor, but right now that could be anywhere from a cheap freebie to 4k, so I don't want to count of a future upgrade to solve any display problems. This is definitely the area where my research is weakest.

Windows 10 home

Monoprice Enthusiast Backlit Full Size OUTEMU Red Switch Mechanical Keyboard

Mouse: have

Speakers: have

Thanks for any critiques / tips!
 
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try to forget sli, it's going into the past from what I can tell.
don't bother with a 2600X, the 2600 will be fine.
ram/ryzen, faster is better, just be sure to get enough, 16 gigs is what I run.
the motherboard, select one that has all the features you want, then buy the next one above that, just to be sure.
sata ssd will be fine, you will only notice nvme speeds at boot if you are not editing video and have 2 in raid 0.
I would go ahead and get the 2070, unless the 1070ti is a deal.
 
I would get a small hard drive, they are useful if you download lots of temporary files, it is better than downloading them to the SSD.
 
I would get a small hard drive, they are useful if you download lots of temporary files, it is better than downloading them to the SSD.
Why is that?

If the thinking was about excessive writes, that has been 'solved' for generations. Typical use these things will last forever (other parts will break like the controller before too many writes on the NAND). These are measured in the hundreds of TB written as minimum. :)
 
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I'm trying to make room in my budget for a gsync monitor. Seasonic focus is on sale for black friday at Newegg, plus they are just a really good deal in general. There is a also 650w ultra prime on sale now, but if I put generous overclocks into the outervision calculator I get pretty close to 650w. I would prefer a little more headroom. I don't actually expect to hold the overclocks I used, but I don't want the PSU to be the limiting factor, and I want to also have some headroom for upgrades in the future. I don't really care if it's gold or platinum as long as its certified.

It seems like the main difference is voltage regulation of the 12v rail. From the seasonic website, the focus uses +/- 1% to 3.3v and 5v with +/- 2% to the 12v rail. Prime gets +/- 0.5% all around. On the units reviewed by hardocp the focus maintained a range of, "0.17v on the 12v rail, 0.03v on the 5v rail, and 0.02v on the 5v" and on the prime ultra, "the 12v rail rose by just 0.02v during testing while the 3.3v rail dropped by just 0.01v and the 5v rail dropped by just 0.01v." Those units exceeded the claimed regulation, which is nothing less than I would expect from seasonic.

My question is long term, running a moderate OC day in and day out, will the difference of 0.5% vs 1% have a significant impact in stability, performance or the life of my components? Likewise will the relaxed 2% control on the 12v matter at all?
 
unless you get to the bleeding edge, as a rule, voltage regulation will not help nor hinder you nor degrade the cpu, heat and voltage do that.

I have a 6800K rig I run folding at home on, it's quite a load on the gpus, I run a 1060 oc'ed to 2000 and a 1080 oc'ed to 2100 in it and it draws around 530 watts from the wall, my evga G2 850 has no issues feeding that rig at all.
 
I ran some with just the 1080 last night and the draw from the wall was less than 350 watts.
 
good to know, thanks for checking. Newegg had a rebate going on the prime ultra gold so I went that way anyway. Probably not worth $30 over the black Friday price of the focus+ at the end of the day, but still a good deal.

Now I'm trying to decide if I should go with the Asrock taichi instead of the strix. Better VRM, independent clock generator.
 
I love my seasonic fanless 520. I like how all the seasonics now have a button on the back so they will run 'fanless' at lower throughput. Plus the 10yr warranty is piece of mind. With any luck my pc will still work when the 7yrs is up on my 520.
 
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