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H100 v Air v Custom Water loop

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bluezero5

Winner, Rig-o'-the-Quarter, Fourth Quarter 2012
Joined
Mar 17, 2012
Location
Tokyo
here's a more accurate test.
took me more than 24 hours to get these results.

I have came to understand the high standards here, so I will list out all the test elements here.

My system. CPU block only.
Chassis is CM storm Trooper,
CPU is i7 3930k under 1.50V at 5.0Ghz for all tests.
MOBO is Asus R4E, with PSU of 1200W
with 2 x 120 fans mounted in front.
1 x 120 x 38 on the bottom. Air flow is plentiful.
for Archon's test, an extra 140 fan is mounted on the back, to besure the archon exhaust runs out quickly.

OS is windows 7, 64 bit. with all programs on start up disabled, so there has been no interruptions with anything.

Ambient is 25'C for all calculations, room is temperature monitored, with for most +/-1'C deviation to thermostat next to computer.

Test method:
- Power On computer, let it run for 30 mins under ambient.
- All tests are based on CPU cooling only.
- Idle temperature is recorded here.
- Run prime95 blend test for 4 hours.
- I used Core Temp to record temp on all cores, and average the temp cores at 4 hours. (on my set up, no matter what I do, core 2-3 is always 2-3'C cooler than Core0-1 and 4-5)
- Thermal paste use method is the same in all. Always checked in the end to ensure it is applied correctly after experiment.
- Computer is shut down after each test, waited for 30 mins before restarting next stage.
- Cost on chart is cost comparison from Japan, valued in USD.


Equipment used:
- AX-4 Thermal Paste
- Archon my past air cooling fav.
- h100 with Corsair stock fans in PUSH config
- H100 with KazeJyuni in PUSH/PULL config

- For water cooling,

- Used swiftech radiators except for the last set, which were black ice x 3
- Used Apogee XT for the test, except for the last set which was Koolance 370
- Pump is Swiftech 655-B
- XSPC single bay reservoir
- Primo Tubes
- Mixture of barbs and compression fittings.
- Coolant is Distill, with deadwater and silver kill coil.
- For the expensive set, all radiators are added with push/pull configs.




Results:

WC control.png


- Archon triggered CPU to throttle. So it failed.
- all other liquid testing CPU did not throttle.
- H100 however has a steady increase slope of temperature, and if the test went on for another 4 hours for that system, it is possible to reach CPU throttling temperatures. Especially the test on Corsair Stock fans.

My conclusion:

Cost effectiveness prices goes to H100 with push/pull config and custom fans. Price of a system raises enormously after, but addition cooling can be archieved if you pour in the money.

Water cooling is an art, which require much learning, practice, and patience. If you love it, you will LOVE it all day long, like I do. But the cost is considerably higher. And each step up the curve, the cost goes up exponentially. So best to set yourself a budget.. and stop there. THINK before you buy anything, what fitting to use, what CPU block to use, etc.

Feedback welcomed.
 
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Yeah, I've had the H100 and loved it right up until the day it died. If Corsair can make these reliable eventually, then I see no reason as to why these shouldn't make proper water cooling obsolete for most people over time. Of course there will always be those that want the absolute best though I just want close to it with easy installation. :shrug:

Unfortunately I also want reliability. The H100 doesn't offer that.
 
So, the H100 even with more raddage is bad. Nice to know.

This is how it's done. Mabe we can forget the long long H100 thread in more than a few threads. And be prepared, it ain't cheap.

http://s245.photobucket.com/albums/...uild 060311/?action=view&current=IMG_0885.jpg

Not really, its showing excellent performance for the price vs a custom loop. On the other hand, it does compare it with a few decent high end air coolers like the new Phantecs or the venerable Noctua NH-D14.....
 
I do think everyone with Custom loops will eventually have more and more rads. :)

but I think unless I mod my chassis, I will be limited to how many rads I can use unless I go external.. .. and I am also running out of funds!!! help!!! haha.

For people who are looking for easy liquid cooling solution though.. the H100 aint too bad. (especially as far as cost goes)
but I read a lot about people's H100 failing after 6-12 months.. so that replacement cost will eventually stack (as no re-usable parts)

but for water cooling, I think once you started, the cost of repair, upgrade is fairly cheaper. Just need to get past that Initial amount of money required for the CPU/GPU blocks and widgets.
 
So, the H100 even with more raddage is bad. Nice to know.

This is how it's done. Mabe we can forget the long long H100 thread in more than a few threads. And be prepared, it ain't cheap.

http://s245.photobucket.com/albums/...uild 060311/?action=view&current=IMG_0885.jpg

Very nice set u got there! Makes me drool.

However u might have misread my results. I never added additional rad to the H100, just made it push/pull. And in fact 120 rad v 120 rad, the h100 isn't much off in cooling for that money spent! So there's clear an area of target customers.

However if u r willing to spend, custom water is still a CLEAR winner, I retired my h100 cause of it. But I emphasize though, don't start with completely noob ish kits, go deep, once u past the initiate cost, water cooling is totally worth it, and long lasting.
 
this is from a while ago..
I don't have an NH-D14.. but from ALL I read.. they are both about the same.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj163/idontcare_photo_bucket/Noctua NH-D14/H100vsNH-D14.png

If you config the H100 into Push/Pull, you will be loud, but I think you be a little bit ahead.

my opinion though.
too small of a difference for the money paid.

wow its alot quieter, that might be a good reason to make the switch, since the h100 is only reliable for half a year, i can have the noctua as a backup i guess.
 
Yeah, I didn't notice too much difference when I changed from my H100 (when it failed) to the NH-D14. Temps were marginally higher with the Noctua over the H100 but very little difference between them really. H100's not worth it.
 
I heard lots of people's H100 unit failing too.
so there's clearly some systematic issue there.
however, amoung my friends that uses it (I was one), the h100 worked alright for as long as Sandy Bridge is out. Corsair has a decent RMA service and warranty, so if it ever fails, you can be quite sure to get a new unit as long as under warranty. (but who wants to go through that pain.) but lucky for us, that hasn't happened once... yet.

NH-D14 and H100 really roughly the same as far as cost/efficiency goes. Having 1 back up the other not a bad idea.
 
I found the H100 really benefits when you install some decent fans on it, but then the cost blows out. I got some Sanyo Denki 260CFM PWM fans. Worked well while staying at decent volumes. Gave about another 5C over stock.
 
I found the H100 really benefits when you install some decent fans on it, but then the cost blows out. I got some Sanyo Denki 260CFM PWM fans. Worked well while staying at decent volumes. Gave about another 5C over stock.

I have identical findings.

the stock fans on the Corsair H100 ain't quite enough. though they boast at 92CFM, the airflow passing the radiator wasn't good enough. (due to the fan's poor PQ curve) I have experiment with many choices, using Gentle Typhoon on both sides is a good choice if you want it quiet and performing. If you want some REAL performance, put Kaze Jyuin 1900 on both sides, 110 CFM both, and push/pull helps the fan to neglect any PQ curve weakness.. and you see the H100 performing near Custom Loop (with 240 rads only).

but yeah, the noise level.. you will feel like riding a motorbike.
 
Not a biggie with two of the 260CFM Sanyo Denki San Ace PWM fans. They spin as low as 500RPM and only speed up when required. The PWM plug goes straight into the H100 and 4 pin molex into your PSU ;)

Before that I was running two 253CFM Delta PWM fans. Their minimal RPM was 1,550RPM and they really drove me nuts after a while.
 
Updated with newer data.
(posted here and updated original)

WC control.png

Overall, I will totally encourage people to go custom loops.
though I also understands that not everyone has the time for that.


btw. does anyone has comparison on Cooler masters TC-812?
I heard that it is kickign NH-D14's a$$ and would like to see where in the spectrum it stands.
 
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The H100 is much better when you use bigger fans :thup:

It isnt a replacement for an aftermarket loop tho, and it shouldnt be confused for one.. but it is much better then any air cooler out there :attn:

Ive had mine since boxing day, its been running 24/7 and havent had a problem with it :cool:

I do wish the lines were just a bit longer tho, but for the case I am useing they are just the right length
 
I do wish the lines were just a bit longer tho, but for the case I am useing they are just the right length

agreed !

and I hope the tubes are 'thicker' too.. cause I can just imagine the flow rate in those tubes... but probably jsut a matter of time before corsair puts up another upgrade version with all of the above.


but even then, custom water loops will probably take the cake pretty easily, given the flexibility and immense flow rates of those things. :attn:
 
Not until it fails dude. Replace it once it fails, when that happens (I believe its more a case of when than if) go with the new Phanteks knockoff of the Noctua NH-D14. Beats the Noctua on performance and price.
 
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