HELP? ASUS M5A78L-M LX with FX-6300 issue

[RGone]

CPUz SPD Tab where SPD Tab shows us what the initial Ram timings should be at DDR3-1600 which is the same as a Ram Frequency of 800Mhz. DDR is calculated by multiplying 800MHz by 2 for DDR3-1600 rate.

Sure you have trouble navigating in bios...you have to read manual and then cross-reference what you need with what the manual says. Plus there are many articles on the net that describe ram timings and names fairly accurate.

I downloaded the manual for your motherboard from the Asus website. Opened in my .pdf reader to page #49 which is also section 2-11.

What you know? I see memory clock mode. Oh shett I need to change something so I need to set the Memory Clock Mode to MANUAL. THEN choose [800MHZ] Since that corresponds to DDR-1600. Now ram is set to DDR-1600. Wow.

Ah hah now I need to set ram timings. Oh crap just below where I set Memory Clock Mode, I see DRAM Timing Mode set to [Auto]. I must need to do something here. Set first dram timing mode to [BOTH]. BOTH so both sticks of ram are being setup.

Now the last four (4) descriptors on bottom of page #49 are to be changed in order to 10, next 10, next 10 and fourth on that page to 27. Then go to page #50 section 2-12 and skipping one setting >> set DRAM Row Cycle Time to 41. Then go all the way to the bottom of the ram settings to DRAM Command Rate and set [2T]. THE REST can or should be able to REmain on AUTO.

Oh wow, now the next setting is Memory Over Voltage...set it to 1.55V or very close there to.

There now you have set up the ram timings and HOPE that board responds okay since we have NO experience with how that older chipset board will like to run DDR3-1600 ram with a later version of an FX processor.

RGone...

 

[Wr3cklessAnt1cs]

I have gotten my temperatures to a more normal range. 75-85 F while idle, and 100-115 F while doing semi-intensive activities. As for the RAM stuff, that just bumped me into a non-booting Windows

 

[RGone]

As for the RAM stuff, that just bumped me into a non-booting Windows

There now you have set up the ram timings and HOPE that board responds okay since we have NO experience with how that older chipset board will like to run DDR3-1600 ram with a later version of an FX processor.

Not so terribly surprised that the older board may have issues with running the DDR3-1600 ram at its rated speed.

You might try the [667] Ram speed and those timings at least that would give you a little ram speed increase over what it is running by default now.

RGone...

 

[Wr3cklessAnt1cs]

I retract my previous post. After double checking my BIOS settings, I found the C6 State had re-enabled itself. After disabling, and retrying the DDR3-1600 settings, it works wonderfully. No voltage spikes, and my temperatures are right where they need to be. Now I don't plan on overclocking, unless I can do it a little bit and only if it's stable. I most likely won't even bother, though, as I don't want to risk destroying any of my hardware. Thank you so much RGone and ShrimpBrime for the much needed tutorials and information, I truly appreciate the help!

 

[RGone]

Motherboard manual in .pdf format style > page #48 section 2-10 down toward the bottom is a menu option that am just not sure it is 'what' it says it is. Processor Frequency Multiplier. One would expect that to be the cpu multiplier most of us talk about all the time on these AMD unlocked processors and where you can raise just the cpu mulitplier and thus the cpu speed without effecting the other 'three' speed busses that adjust at the 'same' time as when you adjust FSB.


For the [Auto] spoken of below you may have to scroll down to that location and use the plus (+) or minus (-) keys to adjust the multiplier. I have no real idea since don't have the mobo nor plan to.
It shows [Auto] in manual and then other multipliers like on 5 or 6 year old processors. If the board would allow you to 'input' say 19.5 in that location it would boost your cpu speed from about 3.8GHz to about 3.9GHz and if you can input that number and it passes at least 20 mins of P95 Blend mode without failure or CPU/Socket temps going beyond 72c and Core/Package temps from going greater than 62c; then you could try and input 20.0 for 4.0GHz. Test again with P95 as said before. Now we cannot (we cannot) know if you can run 4.0GHz cpu speed without adding to the cpu voltage. Might need more cpu voltage. It might fail P95 in a hurry for lack of cpu voltage. H*ll you might not be able to input either the 19.5 or 20.0 multiplier changes even. No idea. BUT if you could and IF it were stable; I would not push further on that board since it does not have the most hefty of circuits for supplying voltage to the cpu under heavy load.

RGone...

 

[ShrimpBrime]

Theory is the faster the speed and the higher you push voltage, the lower you need to get the temperature. However there are some chips that don't mind running warm to hot, it's not good practice.

Make PSU and Cooling your first two top priorities! Then attempt some overclocking.

Also. You are very welcome. And if you ever decide to sell that board, I'd be glad to put in through some real hard core overclocking. I've used LN2 on 2 of the exact same model with very nice results, speeds as High as 7685mhz for just a Cpu-z validation and benchmarking in the lower 7ghz area with single thread benchies. (I gained about 200mhz going from 850w PSU to 1000w PSU ^ hint hint )

 

[RGone]

(I gained about 200mhz going from 850w PSU to 1000w PSU ^ hint hint )

I like that small print man. Don't give any well kept secret away. Let them keep on getting those weinie power supplys and wondering.

C_D dorked with a POS power supply for nearly 2 years and finally went g00d and wrote me he picked up a smooth 100MHz from just opening the case and pulling POS P/S out and inserting g00d power supply. Let 'em keep skimpinng on power. It makes it easier for us to stay ahead. Hehehe.

RGone...

 

[Mr.Scott]

I like that small print man. Don't give any well kept secret away. Let them keep on getting those weinie power supplys and wondering.

C_D dorked with a POS power supply for nearly 2 years and finally went g00d and wrote me he picked up a smooth 100MHz from just opening the case and pulling POS P/S out and inserting g00d power supply. Let 'em keep skimpinng on power. It makes it easier for us to stay ahead. Hehehe.

RGone...

Yup, size matters.

 

[chrisjames61]

Yes, the PSU will get upgraded this Tuesday, that is a definite. The motherboard will be the next step, I'll probably get that upgraded in 2 weeks. Liquid Cooling...I'll probably have to upgrade that with a new case, as I'm looking at the H100i and that requires a 240mm fan port. So that might take a little longer.


I have an 80mm fan in the rear of the case, and a 120mm fan in the front, both sucking air INSIDE, and an 80mm Antec LED blowing air OUT on the windowed side. Should I change these up in some way? **NOTE: As you know, the ASUS M5A78L-M LX only has 1 3-pin for a fan, and 1 4-pin for the CPU fan. The others I have hooked up to Molex.


How would I go about doing this? I'm not very familiar with navigating the BIOS menus. I know that my Corsair Vengeance 1600MHz have quite the potential, I'm just not sure how to unleash the beast lol

Most people run the front as an intake, the back as an exhaust. Like 99.9% of the people. The side fan doesn't really do much except cause turbulence. I would work on getting more airflow in and out of your case. If you have room for more fans. Another 120 in the front at the least. Can you swap a 120 for the 80 in the rear? or put another 120 as a top exhaust?

 

[ShrimpBrime]

Let 'em keep skimpinng on power. It makes it easier for us to stay ahead. Hehehe.

RGone...

And the cooling. Yessir 100%

thanks

 

[Wr3cklessAnt1cs]

Most people run the front as an intake, the back as an exhaust. Like 99.9% of the people. The side fan doesn't really do much except cause turbulence. I would work on getting more airflow in and out of your case. If you have room for more fans. Another 120 in the front at the least. Can you swap a 120 for the 80 in the rear? or put another 120 as a top exhaust?

I actually reverse it around last night. Side is intake, direct onto CPU + Heatsink. The front is intake with 120, and rear is exhaust with 80mm. I also installed another 120mm on the top as an intake. Temperatures are ~10 degrees F cooler

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As for ShrimpBrime, I would be more than happy to sell this board to you once I upgrade. Also, I've ordered a Corsair 750M PSU