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How to select a heatsink thats right for you

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SewerBeing

Grasshoppa Senior
Joined
Jan 15, 2004
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The truth?? You can't handle the truth!!
A big thanks to rogerdugans and archilochus for helping me with this sticky.

The following is an article written by me with the help of the above two people (with the exclusion of the part added by Super Nade). It is therefore my intellectual property and if you wish to copy this onto your webpage please contact me for permission.

Terminology:

Rheostat: Something that controlls the voltage a fan receivs, fan controllers use rheostats, see this excellent guide on how to pick one.

Heatpipes: The topic is too complex for this guide, however here is an excellent link

The most important decision you will have to make when choosing a heatsink:
What is the noise level I am willing to live with, some factors for that are do I live alone, is this computer in my bedroom, and will it run all day and night. Those questions should guide you to selecting whether you want a high performance one or not. If you like to overclock, you will propably need one of the high performance heatsinks and a strong fan, because when overclocking the processor will get hotter (assuming you raise the voltage, even if not better safe then sorry). However just because you chose the high performance route does not mean it can not run quietly (unless you picked a fan labelled as loud) just get a fan controller or Rheostat and quiet it down at night.

Materials: copper and aluminum are the most popular materials in use and copper generally performs better than aluminum. Copper is heavier and more costly however, so many sinks are actually a combination of the two: a "slug" of copper for the cpu core contact area and the rest made of cheaper aluminum. However a pure copper heatsink will perform better then a pure aluminum one (assuming there are no heatpipes being used).

Following is added by Super Nade.
{
If somebody went off into the deep end and wanted to know really why Cu is a better radiator than Al, this rough calculation can be used.

Thermal Conductivity of copper:-
http://www.vcs.ethz.ch/chemglobe/ptoe/_/29.html
[4.01 W/cmK]

Thermal Conductivity of Aluminium:
http://www.vcs.ethz.ch/chemglobe/ptoe/_/13.html
[2.37 W/cmK]

I checked these numbers with the CRC handbook.

My thoughts:-
We know that Planck's radiation law is true. But it is valid in the form seen in textbooks for a black body.So we use Stefan's Law.We are talking about convection/conduction and radiation in our analysis.

Stefan's Law:
P=e x sigma x A x (T^4-t^4)

P---->power radiated
A---->radiating area
sigma----->stefans constant
e---->emissivity {=1 if its a black body}
T/t----->temprature of the radiator/surroundings

Now assuming all things being the same i.e A,T/t, Sigma and convectional losses, the critical parameter here is e.

eCopper=0.119
eAluminium=0.05
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/36_447.html

So, how is Aluminum better than copper in this context?

Now, let us analyse the convection/conduction.
As show above the thermal conductivity of Cu > Al. As the thermal conductivity of air is assumed constant for both experiments, Cu wins again!
}
Different heatsink styles:

The regular old heatsink: Usually a square base made out of aluminum or copper and then fins attached on top. The higher quality blocks have many thin fins, so they have the most surface area they also require a stronger fan to run. The lower end blocks tend to have thick fins with a good amount of space in between. This requires a less powerful fan and are cheaper to make.

The tower heatsink: A heatsink, has a square base like a normal one. However then there are copper heatpipes going out to a rather large tower of copper or aluminum. These heatsinks are usually large enough to hold two fans. However they do not outperform a quality "normal" heatsink running on one fan. Also, the same fin density principle applies here see above.

Sockets:
Socket 478: This is the socket the new pentium 4's use, the most common.
Socket A (462): Athlons/Durons/Athlon XP's the main AMD line at this point
Socket 754: AMD Athlon 64's this socket will not be updated for too much longer
Socket 939: The new Athlon 64's will be out for this socket
Socket 940: AMD Athlon 64 FX's and Opterons are on this socket

Mounting:

On all except two socket, there is only one way to mount a heatsink, that is usually through bolting it on there. The Socket A users have a choice between bolting it on and using the clips. The clips are fine for light heatsinks, but on heavy ones they can tear out the socket. The bolt through approach is usually safer. The Socket 478 owners also have a choice between bolting it on and using their retention system. However in this case there are no safety concerns.

Ok, now that that is out of the way you first need to consider a couple of things when selecting a heatsink:
1) Budget
2) What socket is your cpu, see "Sockets:" section above
3) *Applies only to socket A* Do I have the 4 mounting holes on my motherboard

After having answered all of that you need to answer one more question, am I willing to order online?

If you answered no, I recommend you go to your local CompUSA and check out the selection (It has been known to vary by store).
If you answered yes, keep on reading.
 
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If you have no budget the best ones are (remember to check your motherboards compatibility on the manufacturers webpage):
Thermalright SP-94 (Socket 478 only) or SP-97 (Socket A, need the 4 mounting holes see #3 above) #Has been discontinued
Fans:
Vantec Tornado 92mm (loudest 92mm fan in existence recommended with a fan controller only!)
Panaflo FBA09A12H 92mm (A nice medium range fan with excellent cooling abilities, if too loud consider getting a fan controller)
Panaflo FBA09A12M 92mm (The lowest performing fan that will give good cooling)

Thermalright XP-120 (Socket 478, 754, 939, 940)
Fans:
Delta High Performance 120mm (the loudest 120mm fan ever, do not use this unless you are deaf or your comp is in a diff room or get a rheostat please note the huge power requirements)
Panaflo FBA12G12M 120mm (A very good fan, probably the best for the XP-120, use with a rheostat if its too loud but it will provide excellent cooling)
Vantec Stealth Fan 120mm (If you are into quiet this is the fan for you,use with a rheostat for more silence)
Sanyo Denki 120mm (Nice fans, lots of pressure pretty good noise ratio can get em in the classifieds added @ rogerdugans request)

If you are on a budget or the above do not fit on your motherboard (Socket A with out the four mounting holes see Slk-900A) consider these:
Thermalright XP-90 or Thermalright XP-90C (Same compatibility as above (XP-120), however Thermalright says it works on any motherboard with those sockets)

Fans:
Vantec Tornado 92mm (loudest 92mm fan in existence recommended with a fan controller only!)
Panaflo FBA09A12H 92mm (A nice medium range fan with excellent cooling abilities, if too loud consider getting a fan controller)
Panaflo FBA09A12M 92mm (The lowest performing fan that will give good cooling)
Thermalright SLK-900A (Socket A)
Fans:
Vantec Tornado 92mm (loudest 92mm fan in existence recommended with a fan controller only!)
Panaflo FBA09A12H 92mm (A nice medium range fan with excellent cooling abilities, if too loud consider getting a fan controller)
Panaflo FBA09A12M 92mm (The lowest performing fan that will give good cooling)
 
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Now for all of you that want absolute silence consider some of these, first with out a budget:
Zalman CNPS7000A-Cu Ultra (Socket 478, A, 754)

Thermalright XP-120 (Socket 478 or Pentium 4, 754 or Athlon 64, 939 or newer Athlon 64s or, 940 or Opterons, Athlon 64 FXs)
Fans:
Vantec Stealth Fan 120mm (If your into quiet this is the fan for you, use with a rheostat for more silence)
Panaflo FBA12G12M 120mm (A very good fan, propably the best for the XP-120, use with a rheostat if its too loud but it will provide excellent cooling)

For those on a budget (if your cpu is socket 939 or 940 see the without a budget section):
Thermalright ALX-800 (Socket A)
Fans:
Panaflo 12L 80mm (Quietest 80mm fan that will still give good temps, put it on a rheostat if you want more silence)
Vantec Stealth Fan 80mm (Even quieter will not be good for overclocking, is very silent however)

Zalman CNPS7000A-ALCU (Same as the Zalman above, just cheaper)

Finally, to address the "fanless question", unless you have 1,199 us dollars for this you can not go fanless and expect any acceptable temperatures!

Thermal Interface Material Selection Guide:
1) Thermal Pads will hurt your temperatures and are therefore only recommended when you can get nothing else
2) The best (commonly available) performing TIM (Thermal Interface Material) is Arctic Silver 5 the second best and cheaper alternative is Artic Silver Ceramique #Notice both are available in larger sizes

Online Vendors:
Canada
United States and UK
 
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Hey, thanks for the great information.
I saw an increase of posts this month on heatsinks, and this helps a lot.
 
Well, I only see either ThermalRight or Zalman in reccomendations...
I'm looking out for a good but cheap HS/F combo to keep my Barton 3000+ cool for when I'm going to utilize the privelage of having an unlocked AMD cpu. (OC atleast 200MHz)

I've seen a coolermaster solution thats generally available for under 30€.
It features an all-copper heatsink and a centrifugal blower fan (higher pressure, no dead spot).
It looks pretty decent, but is it really?
After all, the HS is quite small. If the blower is available seperately, I think I might use one on a more generally approved heatsink, but I'm afraid its going to be a hard job finding an SLK-900A. Because of the very slacking design of the A7N8 series, I wouldn't dare to use a HS that screws through the mobo.
I also have very few options because of limited space around the socket, otherwise I already had a Zalman CNPS7000-CU slapped on it.
 
If only you have cash - I'd go with Thermalright - their solutions are awesome.
If not - here in Poland, we can get Freezone radiators - they're similair to Zalman, but cheaper. I think you canget them or similiar in other places too.

Example - this 144mm wide, 120mm fan monster for around 30€.
 
Thought I'd give my support for Alpha brand heatsinks. You can buy them for cheap at newegg.com.
I first put this heatsink on a 2.4 northwood that was running stock on the stock hsf assembly. It was actually running pretty hot with the stock hs. Then I bought this alpha from newegg and an 80mm sunon fan to go with it. After that, it was room temp. It dropped many degrees. For the next year or so, I had it OCed to 2.88 ghz with BARELY an increase in temp. I could have OCed much more probably, but I'm not as hardcore as yall are. :) I simply do what is needed for the desired gaming results.

If you want to stick with air cooled and are looking for a great performing heat sink, look at alpha as an option. The installation is a little tougher than the stock, for sure. But in the end, its not that hard, and well worth the time.
 
SewerBeing said:
A big thanks to rogerdugans and archilochus for helping me with this sticky.

Terminology:

Rheostat: Something that controlls the voltage a fan receivs, fan controllers use rheostats, see this excellent guide on how to pick one.

I don't mean to be an ***, but a rheostat doesn't control voltage, it controls current. A potentiometer is what controls voltage. Of course they're both the same device, but a potentiometer is just a potentiometer unless it's wired to be a rheostat.
 
yes I am aware of that but for all intents and purposes it controls the voltage which is the effect you notice. Of course I could have bothered to explain how limiting the current reduces the voltage but that would just be too long and complex for some people.

BTW: that made me realize something it does control it (indirectly of course but still)
 
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I'm using AMD's retail fan and hs for my socket 939 3500+, it's small but I was very surprised by how good it's working for me (I expected to have to buy one).
 
Awesome post! Thanks so much for the information and you just answered my question about what to use. I've now chosen my heat sink and fan based on your recommendations :)
 
I own a nf7-s version 1. It does not have the holes to bolt a headsink therefore I would need a clipping one. I plane to upgrade my Atlon 1400 to a xp mobile 2500. What headsink would I need to also overclocked. And kind of memory model and by whom I should buy at least 512 meg or better 1 giga.

thank you
 
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