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Hydor L35 v2 DD 12v Water Pump

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Ay Nikhusub1, can you do me a favor and check this review out. http://www.moddershq.net/reviews.asp?reviewid=38&pagenumber=3
On that page, there is a link to be able to watch the D4 pump in action. You think you can watch it and tell me if your pump is similar to the pump in the review in terms of noise. I bought a DangerDen pump before, and it was LOUD, but I loved the flow it gave my 3/8" setup. If you truly say the new revisions are silent, I want to buy it again.
 
quicksilverXP said:
Ay Nikhusub1, can you do me a favor and check this review out. http://www.moddershq.net/reviews.asp?reviewid=38&pagenumber=3
On that page, there is a link to be able to watch the D4 pump in action. You think you can watch it and tell me if your pump is similar to the pump in the review in terms of noise. I bought a DangerDen pump before, and it was LOUD, but I loved the flow it gave my 3/8" setup. If you truly say the new revisions are silent, I want to buy it again.
I saw that video... mine is nowhere near that loud. Mine is like 1250 silent. I wish I had the old ones, i dont care about noise... with lower noise in the D4 almost certainly comes with less power?
 
nikhsub1 said:
I saw that video... mine is nowhere near that loud. Mine is like 1250 silent. I wish I had the old ones, i dont care about noise... with lower noise in the D4 almost certainly comes with less power?

seems they would have to put out revised specs then,a nd specs on dangerden' site have not changed afaik

billa

quite an assumption to make, giving a C/W effect ot changing tubing size

have you considered different size pumps for htis one size fits all decision?

so, $3 more for 1C? one of the best upgrades I can make, cost to performance

if only the 2C going from cascade to cascade SS was $6, ha

cathar is right, problem comes in (slightly) more difficult mounting
 
BillA said:
same components: 1/2" vs 3/8" ID = -0.009°C/W for 1/2", for most perhaps 1°C

as stated, changing only barbs and tubing (MCW6000 -> 6002)

greenman100
if you change the components, . . . . not what I did
yes I know that lower C/Ws can be had with different components (I have WCing systems with a C/W of 0.184), but that was not the test
- just swapping the tubing in that particular system
 
BillA said:
as stated, changing only barbs and tubing (MCW6000 -> 6002)

greenman100
if you change the components, . . . . not what I did
yes I know that lower C/Ws can be had with different components (I have WCing systems with a C/W of 0.184), but that was not the test
- just swapping the tubing in that particular system

what part was not clear ?
 
insofar as the pump changing the fluid velocity, yes
a different pump will have its own system C/W

the problem is the word "more"
more in an absolute sense, or relatively
lower head pumps benefit "more" from the reduction in line losses, but their capability is less as well
 
greenman100 said:
makes sense

back on topic, anyone else have a new D4 to add comments on?

please note when and where pump was bought
Just hooked up D4 #2, just as quiet :p I then hooked them up in series, hold on to yer pants! I had a hard time totally restricting the flow with my thumb at the outlet tube! If it matters, my pumps say they were mfgr'd in 06/04, so just a month ago and they are only 60 places away in the serial #'s.
 
I just got a D4 from DD...manufacture date is 06/04. It's very quiet, having just a hum to it that is a higher pitch than my Mag 2 or Maxi-Jet 1200. The impeller is designed exactly like the legendary Velocity pumps, which are probably the quietest pump you can get. This is clearly an extremely well made pump.
 
Just getting back to the pump vs flow thing. It gets intertwined with block design.

As stated a couple of times, weaker pumps benefit more from "system" resistance, meaning that 1/2" tubes and barbs are beneficial.

Now for Swiftech who can mostly control which pump is coupled with their blocks, especially for kits, this allows a little more stability in terms of designing a block to match the system. As we can see from various tests, pushing much more than 1.25GPM through an MCW600x yields very minimal gains, but this would not have been by accident. This is pretty much exactly the sorts of flow rates that the MCP600 in the 3/8" Swiftech kits would be pushing, so Swiftech can build a block to reach a point of rapidly diminishing returns given the pump that they couple with their kits.

Where it gets a little gnarly for "uncoupled" blocks is that people run with anything from an Eheim 1046, right up to the Iwaki's. So where does one "optimise" for now?

If the assumption could be made that everyone had a D4 at the least, the block could be solely focused on accelerating the water with that sort of pumping pressure in mind, and choke the flow rates to a point where 3/8" ID tubing setup doesn't play a hugely significant role in the system-wide flow-resistance.

If I were building a kit, I'd be selling a "D5", some 3/8" ID tubing everything, and the CPU block would be choking flow rates to the ~5LPM (~1.25gpm) mark, with all that internal block resistance being spent to accelerate the water to high velocities (~10m/s at the least).

However, if someone then comes alone with an Eheim 1048 (or a 1046), as certain "international" testbeds use, flow rates will plummet to performance sapping levels as the resistance of the tubing becomes fairly significant for the pump. So naturally we would need to do everything we can to assist the pump, such as fitting 1/2" ID tubing.

Where I'm getting at here is that 1/2" ID tubing is "required" only in the "chicken and the egg" sense - because many people used to, and many do still, use weak pumps - this necessitates 1/2" ID tubing to get the most benefit out of the pump (1C for $3 is a good deal) - which in turn drives low flow-resistance block design, which in turn drives the need for strong pumps to get the most out of those low-resistance designs - which in turn reaffirms the need for 1/2" ID tubing.

If everyone were using strong high-pressure pumps, we could all use 3/8" ID tubing, design the waterblocks accordingly, and the benefits from switching up to 1/2" ID would be more like 0.1-0.2C or so, or far less justifiable given the drawbacks to 1/2" ID tubing.

I'm not against 1/2" ID totally - it's just that it has evolved over time to become the accepted standard - but we need to understand why we are here using it, how it got that way, and not turn our backs totally on the possibility that it doesn't always have to be that way.
 
One more thing...I read a comment that the D4s will run at 6-7 volts but can’t start up. This is definitely not the case with my D4. At 7 volts the pump always started...even when the output tubing was completely pinched. That makes sense to me, as the amount of resistance shouldn’t matter. Flow rate is pretty low...flow through 4 ft of 1/2" tubing (1 ft suction, 3 ft output) was roughly 82 gph. Couldn’t measure head. The pump was nearly silent.
 
Graystar said:
One more thing...I read a comment that the D4s will run at 6-7 volts but can’t start up.

Wonder who said that.

I measured it. In my experience they will start at 4.8v, and stall at ~4.6v. This means that one could run them off the 5v rail off their PSU, so long as it wasn't drooping voltages too far.
 
Cathar, I remember reading from a long time ago that you ordered the D4's with the 3/4" outlets? Did you combine this with the 3/8" tubing? I'm thinking of replacing my tubing to 3/8" and was wondering which outlet size I should get with the D4. Also, I have a resevoir right before my pump inlet, would it benefit to use 1/2" tubing to connect the res. and the pump (with 3/8" everywhere else)? I've remembered discussions about increasing the tubing width of pump inlet so it's not 'starving' for water.
 
Graystar said:

Hmmm, a relative mine of misinformation.

I use a proper variable voltage PSU which is capable of delivering up to 30A at any voltage up to 16V, so it is not subject to the vagaries of a rheobus on a PSU's 12v line. The D4 pumps will start at 4.8v and I've measured that with a multi-meter. I have no idea what things may be at play with a rheobus - but more likely I would guess that the voltage that the rheobus is indicating is false in the example mentioned there.
 
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