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My 1100t gets very hot what should I do?

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Uncoordinated

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Sep 24, 2012
I recently got an AMD phenom ii 1100t off of Craigslist I decided I didn't want it so I sold it on eBay, but then the guy who bought it sent it back stating that it didn't work. I then tested it out today on my computer in which I usually run my 960T and the processor worked! I was making sure that everthing was okay with it and then I noticed that the temperature reading was 0 degrees Celsius on all of the cores, I then proceeded to look at the mobo CPU temperature and it said 80 Celsius I freaked out and immediatly shut it down. I also should mention that I couldn't get the stock fan to latch down because when I got it on both hooks on eitherside it was already very tight. I then turned on the computer and we to to bios where the CPU temperature steadily rose from 40 to 60 degrees Celsius I then turned it off once it reached 60( it was still going up). I switched the processor out for my old one because I was too scared to try it again. I then thought that maybe the 0 degree Celsius reading could have been caused by the unlocked feature on my bios from my 960T to 6 cores. This still doesn't explain the high mobo CPU temperature. Maybe I messed up the thermal paste somehow when putting the fan on because I had to reposition it? I have since ordered a cooler master 212 and some arctic silver thermal paste, but do you guys have any Idea why the temperature got so high? Could I have also damaged it when running at 80 Celsius?
 
Well you say you were running it with the heat sink not fastened down on one side so there was not good contact between the heat sink and the CPU which would definitely cause high core temps (yes, the 0c core temp reading was because you had core unlocker enabled) and could also cause high socket temps because there is some heat transfer between the socket and the processor. When you cool the processor not only will the core temp drop but the socket temp will drop too.

Don't be afraid to fasten the clamp on the cooler. Those things can be very hard to lock in place but the worst that could happen is it would break the tab off the plastic retention bracket and you can pick those up anywhere. They are universal for that socket. You won't even need it when you get your new cooler since the 212 has a bolt thru mount. The more pressure the clamp exerts between the cooler and the CPU face the better.
 
I also should mention that I couldn't get the stock fan to latch down because when I got it on both hooks on eitherside it was already very tight = That can cause rising temps as you saw.

The 0c on cores was because you had the "unlock" feature turned on for your 960T.
 
Well you say you were running it with the heat sink not fastened down on one side so there was not good contact between the heat sink and the CPU which would definitely cause high core temps (yes, the 0c core temp reading was because you had core unlocker enabled) and could also cause high socket temps because there is some heat transfer between the socket and the processor. When you cool the processor not only will the core temp drop but the socket temp will drop too.

Don't be afraid to fasten the clamp on the cooler. Those things can be very hard to lock in place but the worst that could happen is it would break the tab off the plastic retention bracket and you can pick those up anywhere. They are universal for that socket. You won't even need it when you get your new cooler since the 212 has a bolt thru mount. The more pressure the clamp exerts between the cooler and the CPU face the better.


:salute:
I salute you guys whenever I click a link to a forum on overclockers you guys always are the ones answering. What motivates you to keep helping people?
 
I think its the same sense of satisfaction that a coach or teacher gets when he or she is working with someone and they see the light come on for that individual. You know, the "I get it now" reaction or observing someone who is learning a skill as they develop a sense of pride and accomplishment. Many times those people go on to far excel the coach or teacher in that field and that brings an even greater kind of satisfaction. But some never get it and that's the frustrating part.
 
I would second a number of the points that 'trents' made. I think too that it keeps my 'hand-in' the game. I helped with the newer AMD FX-series processors long before I even had one. Then when I did get one, it took only minutes actually to get fully in the game by taking my own advice given before even having such a processor. In that respect I guess I wound up giving myself a form of validation. Or at least I was able to see I was not out in left field and overclocking is still just overclocking.

1. Raise either the multiplier or the FSB.

2. Keep voltages within somewhat sane levels.

3. Keep temps within sane levels.

4. With AMD you keep the other busses affected by rasing FSB in check and in short order it is job done.

Thanks for the salute. I was just following 'trents' example of helping.

RGone...ster. :chair:
 
So I got the Cooler Master 212 plus and got some arctic silver thermal paste and I put in the processor and added a fan on the other side of the 212 heat-sink and now it runs at 29 degrees overclocking at 3.9!!!! I had no idea it was even possible none the less overclocking. Also I am getting temperature readings from all of the cores because I turned off the UCC core unlocker. When I cleaned the thermal paste off of the processor I noticed that It had an indent on the process and the stock heat sink so I assume something got stuck in between. It wasn't to big though. I also noticed that on the pin side of the processor the edges of the processor seemed to be melted? This was probably the cause of the 80 degree heat originally. I don't know how much of a deal that is, but It runs fine overclocking at 3.9. Although when I tried to turn the turbo on windows would try and repair and end in not booting, not a huge problem, but kind of annoying.

Thanks Guys!
 
Also I need help overclocking I will probably start another thread, I assume that the auto overclocker thing that came with my bios isn't optimal...
 
You learn fast. Yes stay away from the Auto OC and OC Software as they can cause more issues than they fix.
 
Just make sure you test your overclock adequately to make sure it's stable. We recommend testing with at least two hours of Prime95 blend. If you can't pass that she ain't truly stable and well let you down eventually.

How about posting pics of CPU-z tabs: CPU, Memory and SPD? First, crop and save the images to disc and use the built-in forum tool to attach: "Go Advanced">Paperclip tool>File Browser/Uploader
 
Just make sure you test your overclock adequately to make sure it's stable. We recommend testing with at least two hours of Prime95 blend. If you can't pass that she ain't truly stable and well let you down eventually.

How about posting pics of CPU-z tabs: CPU, Memory and SPD? First, crop and save the images to disc and use the built-in forum tool to attach: "Go Advanced">Paperclip tool>File Browser/Uploader

Should I set everything to stock. Its probably better to overclock manually right rather than use the auto thing in my bios? Should I take pics of everything when it is not overclocking at all?
 
No, wait to stress test it until you begin the manual overclock if that is in fact the direction you are headed. My post was based on the 3.9 overclock you referenced in post #7.
 
Amazing. It seems like the stupidity of someone else has benefited you in this case. Really the guy just sent back a perfectly good CPU lol.

With the hyper 212 you should be able to get at least 4ghz. Since the 1100T is a black edition, all you have to do is increase the multiplier and voltage. Then run prime to make sure it is stable.

There are lots of threads if you use google and search things like "1100T overclock," Reading other threads can give you a good idea of what your CPU is capable of and how far you can push it.

Congrats though, you have one of the best CPU's AMD has ever made.
 
Yep, as kmo_9000 said, your manual oveclocking should be easy. Probably the only thing you need to do is put everything back to stock, start raising the CPU multiplier (may be called "ratio"), stress test with Prime95 blend for twenty minutes after each .5x increase in the multiplier and monitor for temps with HWMonitor open on the desktop before you start the stress test and left open during the test.When you can't pass the stress test anymore, add a .025 increment of CPU voltage to stabilize and retest. Don't let core temps exceed 55-60c and CPU socket temps exceed 65-70c. Continue increasing the multiplier, stress test, monitor temps and add CPU voltage when necessary. When you kind of hit the wall, increase the prime95 stress test to 2 hr. If you fail, make adjustments like lowering the multiplier by .5x. That's pretty much it.
 
Yep, as kmo_9000 said, your manual oveclocking should be easy. Probably the only thing you need to do is put everything back to stock, start raising the CPU multiplier (may be called "ratio"), stress test with Prime95 blend for twenty minutes after each .5x increase in the multiplier and monitor for temps with HWMonitor open on the desktop before you start the stress test and left open during the test.When you can't pass the stress test anymore, add a .025 increment of CPU voltage to stabilize and retest. Don't let core temps exceed 55-60c and CPU socket temps exceed 65-70c. Continue increasing the multiplier, stress test, monitor temps and add CPU voltage when necessary. When you kind of hit the wall, increase the prime95 stress test to 2 hr. If you fail, make adjustments like lowering the multiplier by .5x. That's pretty much it.

Ok this is weird I ran prime95 for the first time with auto overclock temperatures skyrocketed to 75 and failed then I ran prime 95 at stock with no overclock and temps were hovering at 65-66 after 10 minutes WTF
Keep in mind I have 212+ with 2 fans on either side...
 
Ok this is weird I ran prime95 for the first time with auto overclock temperatures skyrocketed to 75 and failed then I ran prime 95 at stock with no overclock and temps were hovering at 65-66 after 10 minutes WTF
Keep in mind I have 212+ with 2 fans on either side...

Your very condition is why we ask that these captures accompany changes so we can see what the heck is going on graphically. Not much else helps us to try and help you. WTF is not possible to answer without some information to form an opinion.

These are the types of information that most users supply in order to be able to help them very much.

CPU Tab in CPUz from CPUID com
attachment.php


Memory Tab in CPUz from CPUID com
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SPD Tab in CPUz from CPUID com
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And this is screen capture of HWMonitor (free version) from CPUID com
HWMonitor has been scrolled enough and large enough to show Min/Max of Voltages and includes the CPU CORE TEMPS fully visible.

This capture is made of HWMonitor after it has been open on the desktop logging Min/Max temps and voltages while Prime 95 was running Blend Mode test on all cores for at least 20 mins and then the capture of HWMonitor was made and it shows the Min/Max temps and voltages before P95 Blend was started and while running P95 Blend mode and gives much greater insight into how the system is performing without guessing.

attachment.php


In order to attach screenshots of images as suggested, first crop and capture the images with Snipping Tool found in Windows Accessories or equivalent. Then click on Go Advanced, a button at the bottom of every new post window. Then click on the little paperclip tool at the top of the Advanced post window when it opens. Clicking on the paperclip tool brings up the file browser/upload tool and the rest is fairly obvious.
 
Ok this is weird I ran prime95 for the first time with auto overclock temperatures skyrocketed to 75 and failed then I ran prime 95 at stock with no overclock and temps were hovering at 65-66 after 10 minutes WTF
Keep in mind I have 212+ with 2 fans on either side...

These high temp could be caused by several things:
1. Improperly mounted CPU cooler such that there is not good pressure between the cooler base and the CPU. If you wiggle the top of he cooler with your fingers a little you should observe no rocking at the base.
2. TIM improperly applied so that it has spread poorly between the cooler base and the CPU. How much did you apply? What method did you use?
3. CPU voltage set excessively high
4. Excessively high ambient temps or computer case located in a confined area like in an enclosed desk where it can't get fresh air or warm exhausted air gets trapped
5. Poor case ventilation cause by bad design, case fans too few, too small, pointed the wrong way, clutter of cables and wires to obstruct air flow. What make and model case do you have? How many fans and how big are they? Where are they placed with regard to intake and exhaust? I will attach a pic of proper case air flow. It needs to be moving the warm air from the inside to the outside. Also, which way is the cooler fan facing? It should be pushing air through the heatsink toward the fan at the back of the case.
 

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Pictures
CPUZ
CPU tab no overclock or prime
CPUZ no overclock cpu tab.PNG
SPD tab no overclock or prime
CPUZ no overclock spd tab.PNG
MEmory tab no overclock or prime
CPUZ no overclock memory tab.PNG
Temperatures no blend
HW moniter no prime95.PNG
Temperatures with 5 minutes of prime
HW monitor prime95 blend.PNG

Trents I think the only one that might be a problem is the air circling.
I have two intake fans on the bottom and 2 fans on the cpu cooler and than an exhaust fan following pointing out the back of the case.
 
It's time for you to take your system info and create a "Sig" so that it travels with every post you make. Go to Quick Links at the top of the page and click on it, then click on Edit Signature. You can use mine or one of the other regular contributors as a guide for what kind of info we like to see there. Please include info about the make and model of your case.

I think you'd better try to redo the TIM. Don't apply it the way the instructions that came with it say to. The ridges and valleys on the bottom of the cooler can block the spread of the paste. First clean the old paste off very thoroughly with paper coffee filters. They have a hard sheen and don't leave lint. Start with dry ones and then finish with one moistened with rubbing alcohol. Then apply the paste in two thin lines perpendicular to the copper heatpipes on the bottom. Don't try to spread the paste. Just lower the cooler and tighten the screws back and forth in a "X" pattern a little at a time. The clamping pressure will spread the paste.
 

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Okay went back to the first post...

The first post would have us believe that your 960T was unlocked and running at some speed without any HEAT issues. Of course you could NOT see the core temps with Core UNlock enabled. Only the CPUTIN. You never looked at it much is my guess?

So you sell off an 1100T which I would not have done for a locked 960T unless something was wrong with the 1100T cpu. The buyer sends it back to you saying it is dogged out and won't run.

You stick the returned 1100T in what is seemed to be a working motherboard with an unlocked 960T without any HEAT issues and you suddenly have heat issues. Then you buy a CM 212 of some model and put it on top of the 1100T and all seems good until you push the processor.

So what is the problem? Sounds like a bad 1100T, IF there were NO heat issues with the UN-locked 960T.

I would put the 960T back in and put the CM 212 on it and UN-lock the cores and then prime it just like you just did the 1100T and see if the CPUTIN goes over 60c. If it does not then the 1100T has a problem.
 
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