PC-DL 800 FSB Mod

[Fieldski]

Ok the results werent great at all, but i'm happy enough.

The most stable I can get it using 1.57V is at 2.67GHz / 205FSB / DDR400. The bus increase is enough for a bit of an increase in performance, as well as a 250MHz OC. I think the problem all along has been down to one of the chips being a bit rubbish. I did buy them second hand, and obviously they are D1 and not M0 so I was expecting anything fantastic...

Would have been nice to at least hit 3GHz though

The PC-DL puts out a default voltage to the memory of 2.48-2.49v...I do think that you might want to concider a voltage mod to the memory...This should allow you to push it to at least 240+

 

[Polariz^]

Yup i've already been reading about it on Cvidlers page, I need to see if I can get all the bits needed to give it a go. The problem is however that i've been leaving the FSB straight at 200FSB, and it only becomes stable when I drop the multipliers. Ive had to leave it at 2.6GHz (200fsb) because it was the highest stable clock speed. Even though i'm going to probably give this mod a go, i'm guessing at the moment that it's one of the chips that's the major problem.

 

[Fieldski]

Make sure you do DaveB's (solder free method), wouldn't want to see you void your warranty..... http://www.datamine.tk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=19&PN=1 .

I do like P4Northwoods way better though... http://www.datamine.tk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=20&PN=1 , do this at your own risk, this will void your warranty.

Have you tried to set it at say 210, or higher and set the multiplier up/down?

fieldski

 

[DaveB]

Make sure you do DaveB's (solder free method), wouldn't want to see you void your warranty..... http://www.datamine.tk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=19&PN=1 .fieldski

While I did the solder-free mod, it was vergefio's mod. And Fluf wrote up the procedure using my photo. Just want to make sure the proper people get the credit they deserve. It's easy, and no risk to your warranty.

But Fieldski, why to you prefer P4N's method? I can't see any advantage and wouldn't want to solder on my PC-DL. Several PC-DLs, including two of P4Ns, have been killed by soldering errors during various mods and IMO such experiments should be avoided at all cost. I've done Vcore mods using Pomona SMD Grabbers on my Shuttle AK31 and Asus A7M266-D motherboards without soldering also. I can adjust the VDIMM to over +4V using vergefio's method and, if I ever sell the board, can simply remove the Grabber to return the PC-DL to original condition.

 

[Polariz^]

Well I turned on my PC this morning to find one of the CPU's was missing again when running at 800FSB. The voltage mod is still in tact and running at roughly 1.575V.

Back to 533 again...

 

[Dc5e]

sorry to hear that it isn't working too well.... anyways i ordered my parts last sunday and they should be arriving late this week.... so we'll see how my system turns out.

 

[Polariz^]

Thats ok mate, the good thing is that I can sell the chips as working normally and just buy another one - it's just that I cant be bothered to strip the system down again.

I'm now running stable using FSB overclocking, FSB 161MHz, CPU 2.9GHz, DDR at 402MHz. That'll do for me, still not a bad overclock considering how much money ive saved if I were to buy two 3.06GHz chips.

 

[Dc5e]

well, half of my stuff just came in and i got two D1's... oh well anyways we'll see how mine do when the rest of the stuff come tomorrow

 

[Polariz^]

Don't be afraid to do the socket mod btw, it's dead easy. Have fun

 

[Dc5e]

so there are two types of mods for the 800fsb mod correct? there's the moosemod and wiremod?? and i presume that the moosemod doesn't require any wires and only needs to change jumper settings?

could someone clarify the 800fsb mod?

 

[DaveB]

The wire mod that Polariz^ is talking about is for Vcore to help overclocking. The MooseMod, which simply involves removing a jumper from the PC-DL, is for 200 MHz+ FSB. You will have to get 2.4/533 M0 or D1 Xeons to be assured that the MooseMod will work. Don't even think about the other 200 MHz mod, which requires socket wiring and insulating and/or breaking pins off of your Xeons.

Then, or course, there is the VDIMM mod.

 

[Dc5e]

hm... okay thanks, that helps alot. Hopefully once i get my stuff tomorrow i'll set it all up then run my system for a good amount of time before trying the 200fsb jumper change. Seems like the wire mods are kinda a pain because you have to remove the cpu everytime... but i guess i'll do it when i need to

 

[DaveB]

You only do the Vcore mod once, and just leave it alone. The 1.6V mod gives you 1.56V or so and can't hurt anything so why would you play around with it? You will most likely need the extra Vcore for the MooseMod to work anyway.

 

[Dc5e]

well my stuff came and i'm putting it together now.... so can i just run 1 cpu for now to just make sure it works and stuff?...

edit: never mind i got it going

 

[DaveB]

Did you do the MooseMod? Just pull off the jumper and see how it goes.

 

[Dc5e]

not yet, i'm gonna install xp first then see how it goes

 

[Dc5e]

oh man... the wire mod is gonna be a pain but i'll prob do it once.... cuz...... its so cramped in there!!!! installing the heatsinks took quite some force, definitly on the brackets... oh well i'm sure its worth the trouble

just did the jumper change with 12x multi... so far it looks okay! time to see how it runs

 

[DaveB]

Yeah, you should have done it before you installed it in the case. I always install the CPU and HS/Fan out of the case anyway.

But, does "just did the jumper change with 12x multi" mean the MooseMod was successful?

 

[Dc5e]

yup, i'm running 2.4ghz at 200x12 and so far i haven't ran into any problems

i'm also using 1003 bios

 

[DaveB]

Time to at least bump the multiplier. At a minimum, 2.4/533 D1s are certainly good for 3.2 GHz at the default Vcore. So 16x is a definite and 17x is a 75% certainty IMO. My old 2.66/533 C1s did 3.3 GHz at the default Vcore, for example. And you should flash the 1005 BIOS.