Phenom II X3 720

[90Ninety]

Hey Guys ,

This is my first step up from entry level PC gaming , currently own a mid-range tower My spec is as follows

MOBO: Asus M4A785TD-M-EVO
CPU : Phenom X3 720 (Keka) (not sure if its a black edition ?)
Ram : 4 GB 667Mhz DDr3
GPU: 8800GTS 640mb DDR3

I basically got it for £60 on Ebay ( Around $80 ) ,It has a Intense , Huge heatsink and proper quick release gaming case with fans .

(I got the above spec using CPU-Z )

I'm new to Overclocking , I allways have used hardware at stock settings, so basically I need help overclocking the CPU . I have updated the Mobo Firmware to the latest revision . I tried unlocking the 4th core , though I think it's dead

Within the Bios I have the Following Advanced OC options :

GPU OverClocking [Auto]
GPU Overclocking [Auto
PCIE OverClocking [Auto]
CPU ratio and voltage
GPU Ratio and Frequency multiplier [x16.0 3200 Mhz]
CPU /NB Frequency [auto]
CPU Over Voltage [auto]
VDDNB over Voltage [Auto]
Loadline Calibration [Auto}

Hyper Transport Configuration
HT Link Frequency [Auto]
HT Link Width [Auto]
HT Over Voltage [Auto]

Secure Virtual Machine Mode [Disabled]
Cool n Quiet [Disabled]
C1E Support [Disabled]
Advanced Clock Calibration [Disabled]

Basically I want to overclock my CPU and generally improve performance , what above do I need to change exactly?

Would be much appreciated to hear from fellow OC'ers

Thanks

 

[trents]

These are some of the bios items you will need to interact with. Because you will need to be overclocking with the fsb ("front side bus" or "CPU frequency") as you have a locked multiplier CPU, there are some things that have to with the memory speed and voltages that are not in view that you also will need to work with. Could you take a snap of the DIMM or DRAM bios parameters section and upload it please?

 

[Scout]

Do you have any CPU unlock functions a quick google and it looks like you might. http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/foru...4a785td-m-evo-am3-motherboards-review-14.html My x3 720 didn't unlock when I had one but every chip is different ymmv.

 

[90Ninety]

Because you will need to be overclocking with the fsb ("front side bus" or "CPU frequency") as you have a locked multiplier CPU,

Sorry I forgot to mention I changed the cpu multiplier to x16 myself . I had read elsewhere that's what is needed to OC the CPU. So this value can be changed , though is there anything else specifically that need changing to increase performance ?

 

[trents]

So, it's a black edition CPU if you can raise the CPU multiplier. Overclocking will be simpler then.

You will want to focus on raising the CPU multiplier and along with it the CPU Voltage/Overvoltage to keep it stable. You will also want to increase the VDDNB voltage some. And it might be necessary to tinker with the Loadline Calibration.

First, you need to install some freeware monitoring and testing software to track and test your overclocking efforts. Download and install these three programs: CPU-z, HWMonitor and Prime95. Before you do any overclocking you need to run the Prime95 blend test for 20 minutes to see what your "core" and your "CPU" temps are at stock frequencies and voltages. That will give us an idea of how much overclocking head room you have from a temperature standpoint which is the main limiting factor in overclocking.

Put you CPU multiplier back to the stock 14x so we know you can complete this step without blue screening. Open HWMonitor on the desktop and have it open while you run the Prime95 blend test for 20 minutes.

Crop and save a screen shot image of HWMonitor to disk. Use Windows Accessories Snipping Tool to do that. Post pictures of HWMonitor after the test with the forum image attachment tool. To use the tool, click on the "Go Advanced" button at the bottom of any new post window. Then go to the top of the Advanced Post window and click on the little paperclip tool. The rest will be obvious.

Also, we will want you to put your system info in your "Sig" so that it travels with you at the bottom of every post you make. You can refer to mine for an example if you wish. You should include all the info in your first post but we need more detail. What is the make and model of your case? What specifically is the make and model of the CPU cooler? What is the make and model of the ram? Make and wattage of the PSU? To access the Sig, go up top to Quick Links, drop the arrow down and click on Edit Signature.

 

[RoXQi3x]

First, you need to install some freeware monitoring and testing software to track and test your overclocking efforts. Download and install these three programs: CPU-z, HWMonitor and Prime95. Before you do any overclocking you need to run the Prime95 blend test for 20 minutes to see what your "core" and your "CPU" temps are at stock frequencies and voltages. That will give us an idea of how much overclocking head room you have from a temperature standpoint which is the main limiting factor in overclocking.

Hi, I took the liberty of following friendly advice though not directly meant for me. Maybe me and 90 need the same advice?

I did as requested, and have included images of "normal" and then after I changed the multiplier to 16. Seemed to be working fine at list for 30-min Prime95 tests, but I too wonder - what to try next?

----------------------
My custom built system:
*Phenom II X3 720 Black (Heka) oc@3,2Ghz
**stock CPU cooler**
*ASUS M4A78-E 790GX mb
*Antec Sonata III ATX case w/stock EarthWatts 500W PSU
*Sapphire Radeon HD 4890 1GB Vapor-X
*OCZ Gold XTC DDR2 PC6400 KIT 2x4GB
*Samsung SpinPoint F1 1TB 7200RPM hard drive

 

[trents]

Continue to increase the multiplier in .5x increments until you cannot pass a 20 minute Prime95 blend test. Failing means either BSOD or having one of the three worker cores in Prime stop working. At that point. Bump up the CPU voltage a small increment and retest. Add a tad more CPU voltage if necessary to ultimately pass a 2 hr. or longer Prime stress test. Watch the core temps. When core temps begin to exceed about 55c instability typically begins to set in. You're setup is begging for a nice big aftermarket cooler.

 

[RoXQi3x]

Quick and simple - like it Not too patient in testing though, so in conclusion I would say with my current cooler my sweet spot is somewhere between:

16x stock voltage
16,5x 1,3750v

I should add that I don't quite comprehend what the stock voltage actually is

I did get 30-min stability at 17x with 1,3750v, but at temp 59c - and I do sense that longer testing of 16,5 will end up at about 60 too :\

I think I get the "screaming" part on a cooler now - so what would you recommend? I want a relatively quiet solution if I should go furhter..

 

[JU571N]

The Cooler Master Hyper 212 is a great bang-for-buck heatsink. If you live in the US, geeks.com has refurbished Hyper 212+ for $14.99 + shipping (normally retails for around $30) and refurbished Hyper 212 EVO for $19.99 + shipping (normally around $35). I don't think it's really worth the extra $5 for a slightly better fan and slightly better mating surface but at these prices you could go with either one and still get a good deal.

You also might want to make sure you cables are managed reasonably well so you get good airflow through the case. Either fold and ziptie your unused power cables near the PSU (or just stuff them into the 5.25" bays like I do) and stuff the excess slack from the cables you are using behind the hard drive bays or something. Looking at that case on newegg it doesn't seem to have much in the way of cable management so you'll have to kind of make do. Adding an intake fan in the front, if you haven't already, will also help get cool air to your heatsink.

 

[trents]

Yes, the Coolerrmaster Hyper 212+ evo is a great value but not sure about the "quiet" part. "Quiet" is such an individual experience and depends on expectations as well as acuity of hearing and ambient noise levels. A cooler that everybody agrees is quiet and is also arguably the very best air cooler is the Noctual D14 but its like $80. What's your budget? Whatever you go with, don't settle for less than a 120mm fan based tower cooler. Don't go down to a 92mm fan-based cooler. Your case is wide enough to handle the big boys.

The concern I have is that your case may not have great ventilation. It has a reputation for being quiet but it only has one fan and its located in the rear, correct? Good case ventilation is an important factor in cooling. Unfortunately, "cool" and "quiet" are not good bedfellows.

 

[RoXQi3x]

The D14 seems a rock-solid choice, but as "my budget" is not to spend as much that I start thinking about getting a new CPU/mobo/GFX (This is a box I built for PC gaming)- what could I be getting for my money?

As it is - I get 3,2Mhz for free, or even 3,3, at noise level "X"
What could I expect in speed and noise with installing nothing new but a D14?

I hear you on the case, rear fan only with three speed settings ( and I use lower) but I think I wanna stop before adding even more fans. I suppose my posted images from HWmonitor tells reals my case temps...

Btw I'm looking at Arctic Cooling Freezer 13 Pro as a cheaper alternative - priced as the 212 here in Scandinavia. What could I expect from that?
http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1553/1/

 

[trents]

The AC FP 13 would be a good choice and very adequate for that CPU.

 

[RoXQi3x]

Ordered one, will install within the next 10 days, thanks!

 

[90Ninety]

QUOTE]

Well I reset the Bios to stock settings and have been running Prime95 for 20 mins , I have attached the Screenshot

So now what are the steps for raising the CPU multiplier and CPU Voltage/Overvoltage ?

Also in what increments do I increase the VDDNB voltage . And ido I have to tinker with the Loadline Calibration?

 

[trents]

90Ninety,

Can't tell much about your temp spread between idle and full load. Looks like you either did not have HWMonitor open while you were running Prime95 or you waited until after Prime had been going for a while before you opened HWMonitor. Do that again, please. Have HWMonitor open before you start Prime, run Prime 95 blend for 20 minutes with HWMonitor open during that time and leave HWMonitor open until the stress test is done. Then post back with pics of HWMonitor again, please. Having a look at idle and max load temps is important to get an idea of how well the temp sensors are calibrated.

 

[90Ninety]

Oc

90Ninety,

Can't tell much about your temp spread between idle and full load. Looks like you either did not have HWMonitor open while you were running Prime95 or you waited until after Prime had been going for a while before you opened HWMonitor. Do that again, please. Have HWMonitor open before you start Prime, run Prime 95 blend for 20 minutes with HWMonitor open during that time and leave HWMonitor open until the stress test is done. Then post back with pics of HWMonitor again, please. Having a look at idle and max load temps is important to get an idea of how well the temp sensors are calibrated.

Well , this time round had done what you said , opened HW Monitor , then ran prime for 20 Minutes , then took screen shot .

I have attached it , to this reply .

 

[trents]

By the way, your CPU (socket) temp corresponds to either TMPIN0 or TMPIN1 and since they are only 2c apart it doesn't matter much trying to figure out which one. So there's a differential of about 7c between core temp and CPU temp. That's handy to know for future reference because when you unlock cores you lose the ability to read core temps. That differential is pretty static whether you run a CPU with unlocked or locked cores. You may need to know that some day if you have a CPU that has viable unlockable cores.

So the thing to ferret out now is how far you can push the CPU overclock without having to up the CPU core voltage ("vcore"). Since you don't have a "black edition" CPU with an unlocked core multiplier you must resort to the CPU frequency control in bios ( aka, "fsb" and "HT Reference") to make it go faster. That makes overclocking a little more complicated but still very doable.

Now, what I'd like you to do is to post pics of CPU-z tabs: "CPU", "Memory" and "SPD" so I can have more info about your hardware, bios settings and memory frequencies, voltages and timings.

 

[90Ninety]

By the way, your CPU (socket) temp corresponds to either TMPIN0 or TMPIN1 and since they are only 2c apart it doesn't matter much trying to figure out which one. So there's a differential of about 7c between core temp and CPU temp. That's handy to know for future reference because when you unlock cores you lose the ability to read core temps. That differential is pretty static whether you run a CPU with unlocked or locked cores. You may need to know that some day if you have a CPU that has viable unlockable cores.

So the thing to ferret out now is how far you can push the CPU overclock without having to up the CPU core voltage ("vcore"). Since you don't have a "black edition" CPU with an unlocked core multiplier you must resort to the CPU frequency control in bios ( aka, "fsb" and "HT Reference") to make it go faster. That makes overclocking a little more complicated but still very doable.

Now, what I'd like you to do is to post pics of CPU-z tabs: "CPU", "Memory" and "SPD" so I can have more info about your hardware, bios settings and memory frequencies, voltages and timings.

 

[90Ninety]

Since you don't have a "black edition" CPU with an unlocked core multiplier you must resort to the CPU frequency control in bios ( aka, "fsb" and "HT Reference") .

I DO have Frequency multiplier [x16.0 3200 Mhz] / core multiplier , I am able to change the multiplier I changed it to x16 myself , or am I just spitting hairs ?

 

[trents]

My bad! That is a black edition CPU. Good! Overclocking will be simpler.

Okay, here's the strategy:
1. Increase the core multiplier by .5x increments.
2. After each increment of increase in 1. above, run the Prime95 blend test for 20 minutes with HWMonitor open on the desktop to monitor core and CPU temps.
3. The first time you cannot complete the Prime95 20 minute stress test (either BSOD, lockup, or one of the three core workers drops out and throws an error message) add a small increment of CPU core voltage to restore stability. Retest. Add a bit more CPU core voltage if necessary to pass the 20 minute test.
4. At that point post back with pics of HWMonitor, CPU-z tabs: "CPU", "Memory" and "SPD"

You want to keep core temps from exceeding mid 50s c and CPU temps (TMPIN0 -1) from exceeding 65c. Don't add more vcore (CPU core voltage) when you get to that point.