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Plumbing question(s)

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Jun 11, 2001
I have a basic idea of what I want to do for my first effort at watercooling but two things I can't find info on and I have been reading the forums for 2 days straight now.

I have noticed some people recommend using larger diameter tubing to increase flow but if the barbs on your water block are 3/8" aren't these going to be the limiting factor in the whole system and where would you propose adapting to a larger diameter?

Also since well all tinker in our cases (a lot) is there and acceptable quick disconnect to separate you external cooler that will prevent leaking?

Btw this site is great I don't think I have ever spent so much time reading formus and enjoying it, thanks to all.

Watch out, this forum is addictive. Welcome to the addiction.
Using larger diameter hose does increase volume, but decreases pressure. I some cases this is a good thing, but in my opinion there is not that much difference in overall performance if only part of your setup is 1/2". There are several "Quick couplers" that you could use to disconnect your hoses. Most do have a little leakage when they are disconnected.
Unless you have the means to "blow out" your system before taking it apart, you'll always get at least a minimal amount of leakage. With a little caution it shouldn't be a problem.
im using 1/4 inch it fits in the ol'case better and as far as im concerned is more than plenty. whats the ol formulum "it takes 1 wat 1 min to raise the temperature of one oz of water 1 degree" so it really depends on how much water you move through there
never mix metric and imperial!!!!!!! the specific heat capcity of water is 4.2(or like, 4.198) J/g'C(joules/gram*'C) What that means is it takes 4.2 joules to raise 1 gram of water by 1'C. 1 watt = 1J/s, this is for standing water though. If the water is flowing, the faster you can get it away from the heatsource the better, because thermal efficiency decreases as the temperature difference decreases.
holy crap calm down! i was only trying to describe that the diamiter of your line is not the only factor involved, crimaty! i cant even remember the last time i had to even think about metric and imerial that was just some gheto highschool pysics of the top of my tired assed head. seems like you cant even offer someone some food for though without getting jummped all over for making a damn mistake here and there
Funny how what I thought was a simple question about personal experience can spark tangents. :) I was a mechanic on a nuclear powerplant, so once I started reading about water cooling my computer the old thermodynamics principles came rushing back. I am not an overclocker (yet), but once I found that waterblocks for my CPU existed I couldn't resist putting together a water cooling system myself. I am now just trying to put some finishing answers on questions I have about it before I start laying down the money.

I was mostly curious about the effects on the pump by stepping it down to a small diameter tube and also was looking for suggestions on quick disconnects for ease of service. Such as where to buy and what manufacturers might be out there or some links.

Thanks for the posts,
If you are using a submersible pump, all the heat that it makes will go in to your water. The more restricted the system is, including 90 degree fittings, etc. the more heat will be generated by the pump as it works to overcome the restrictions. Opening up the system may help to prevent an added heat load from the pump.
sorry to get all bent outa shape carousel the point here is to help people out not to criticize merely for the benefit of our own egos any how many people use fish tank pumps or pond pumps which are centrifugal but there are "as im sure you know" many different kinds i think the determining factors for most are , noise, performance, power consumption, and dependability. if you want a powerful quiet dependable pump i would go with a submersible pond pump. "these however are mostly 120 V~" they can be found at your local garden/hardware store for under 20 buck usually and you can wire then in conjunction with your PSU via a 12 volt relay which is what i did and would recommend, that way there is as little load as possible on your psu so you can use that juice for the main purpose "over clocking " good luck
lol, I wasn't really all that excited about you mixing metric and imperial, I just dun like it when people do that, sorry hehe :) If you have a decent radiator, running from the pump out to the radiator BEFORE going to the water block should remove any heat problems you might otherwise have because of the pump.