- Joined
- Jun 16, 2003
- Location
- Cranberry Twp. PA
I am going to make an attempt to sort through and combine all the WC stickies as my great contribution to this forum. It has needed done for a long time and no one has done it. I will attack each aspect, one from top to bottom on the sticky page, at a time and when everything is done, I will introduce another aspect. Edited content will be reflected in the first post. Oh, and please, PLEASE, don't sticky this. When all the information is gathered, I will make one final compilation post to be stickied.
Everything is open to debate/comment/suggestions. This is not the final order. Help me out grammar and content wise as this won't be easy. That being said: RES VS T-LINE!
Res vs. Tee line (Jan 20th 2005)
Res: 208 (47.60%)
T: 156 (35.70%)
Neither: 37 (8.47%)
Both: 36 (8.24%)
* Marks results affected by variables
Res pros:
Easy fill/bleed point
*Aesthetics
Most convenient
Res cons:
*Flow restriction
*Longer tubing runs
Can break
More expensive
Tee pros:
*Shorter tubing runs
*Less restriction
Nothing to break
Less expensive
Tee cons:
Harder to implement properly
Not as 'pretty'
Harder to bleed
Neither pros:
Less restriction of all options
No point of failure
Neither cons:
Hardest to fully bleed
Both pros:
'Easiest' to fill/bleed
Best of both worlds
Both cons:
Most restriction of all methods
Several points of failure
Worst of both worlds
Reservoirs:
Theoretically, the reservoir is the most convenient method to set up in terms of functionality. Filling is as easy as putting water in the opening and turning the pump on. Depending on reservoir design, restriction can be minimal or devastating. Some reservoir designs have one inlet and one outlet, some have multiple inlet/outlets and others have any variation imaginable.
Bay reservoirs typically have one/two inlets and one outlet. This allows a continuos loop with 'minimal' restriction. Some variations have two inlets and one outlet. This allows for multi-outlet water blocks to have both outlets lead directly to the reservoir without the need for a wyee-fitting, thus reducing the restriction on the loop by that much more (albeit a small amount but enough...).
Although the most convenient (arguably), weaknesses are apparent. Clear bay reservoirs are prone to cracking and glue failing, however not all users report this happening. A clear acrylic bay reservoir could last a lifetime or two weeks, or not even that long depending if the UPS guys think it's a football. Also, leaks can develop. Over time, the glue can give causing small leaks leading to a much larger dam breaking. Alcohol is also bad for acrylic resevoirs. It can causes them to crack, so when choosing additives count them out. Ls7Corvete proves this here: http://gallery.pimprig.com/data/1/5450100_0031-med.jpg
The largest problem with reservoirs in general is restriction caused by the barbs, most importantly on the outlet to the pump. This is a common problem with all barbs in a water-cooling loop. Several vendors have overcome this problem by enlarging the outlet, which almost completely solves this problem. On acrylic bay reservoirs, the threaded outlet can be enlarged with a file or tap and then the new barb can be PVC-glued into place. Some reservoir manufacturers have designed their reservoirs to latch directly onto the pump so no outlet barb is required completely eliminating restriction on the pump inlet. While this is the best performing variation of a reservoir, the only pre-manufactured one to my knowledge is for Eheim pumps however this should not stop you from fabricating one of your own.
A common myth with reservoirs is the 'pool' of water aids in cooling the water. The only time where this has been effectively implemented is with large basin reservoirs - 30-gallon drums. The water just doesn't sit long enough or have enough surface area in a simple resevoir to effectivly aid in cooling.
There is one last thing to mention with reservoirs and it is the most important factor in how a system with a reservoir performs: setup error. Depending on where and how the reservoir is implemented, a large temperature swing (for the better) can result in design change. It is not uncommon to see setups where a pump is pumping directly into the reservoir. This 'CAN' cause stress on the joints of acrylic bay reservoirs and cause them to fail faster (depending on the pump used) as well as lowering the total pressure in the loop. The ideal location of reservoir to pump is the reservoir feeding the inlet to the pump. Also, the location of a reservoir in a loop can lengthen the amount of tubing used, increasing the overall restriction of the system. Both topics will be discussed more later.
Tee lines:
Tee-lines, as the name suggests, are a simple Tee fitting. In it's basic form, it's two joining barbs in a line with a third sticking out of the top. Two ends connect in the loop while the other gets an extended length of tubing for filling the system.
There really isn't a whole lot that can be said about the t-line setup. Two ends connect the system flow while the third acts as a reservoir with the extended length of tubing holding the excess water. Location of the tee-line in the loop is probably the most argued aspect of the tee-line setup. Some argue that the very top of the loop is the best place for the tee-line while others swear right before the pump is the best. In all actuality, neither is correct - both aspects have different pros and cons. With the tee at the top of the loop bleeding will occur faster as air naturally rises. With the tee at the pump inlet, filling the system is made easier as water entering the tee automatically fills and primes the pump. The downside to this is it takes longer to bleed.
In all truth, the position of the tee in the loop makes absolutely no performance difference, as long as the 'reservoir line' is aiming to the top of the case. If the system is bled outside of the case, the tee can be moved to the top for faster bleeding. If in the case, the case can be turned to move the tee. Also, with the pump pushing water through the system, eventually all air will work itself out anyway. The only deciding factor on tee location should be preference, and what causes the least amount of extra tubing.
Tee lines should be sealed at the end. Period. It's just a safety thing. I wouldn't spend a grand on a computer and five hundred on water-cooling only to knock the case over and have water spill everywhere. Anything can be used to seal it that fits the tubing, just don't use batteries. Nothing more needs to be said here.
There are a couple basic principles to follow when installing a tee line setup. One is to avoid using the 90-degree bend for the normal system flow. This can be used in cases where space is a factor but it causes unwanted restriction. Also, avoid pumping into a tee where the 90 degree is used and the pump is pumping directly into the tee on the non-90 degree angle (pump ==^== 'reservoir') where the flow goes the direction of the arrow. This will reduce pressure in the loop, which is bad.
There have been some reports of a suction effect on the tee line. What this is, is when the pump is turned on, the water level will fall (sometimes rise) in the tee that isn't sealed. When the tee is sealed, this effect should be greatly eliminated altogether or reduced significantly. I have not seen anything about this affecting performance however I haven't followed that thread for more than a couple of days.
One final note, a tee line should add about as much restriction as a single inlet/outlet reservoir if all other variables are kept the same, including barb internal diameter. Like reducing restriction on a reservoir, any added resistance can be overcome by using a larger sized barb than what fits the tubing.
Neither:
Using neither tee line nor reservoir is an interesting concept. The basics behind this are with no fill point comes no added restriction. Setting up a system like this is easier than first thought, simply build the system, submerse and run the pump in a bucket, then when all the air is worked out of the system, slip the open-ended tubing over the pump inlet UNDER WATER. The only downside to this technique is that if any air is left in the system, there is no escape for it.
Both:
Using both a tee and a reservoir is more of a failsafe method than anything. The tee allows for point source filling for areas where filling from the reservoir can't reach and also the bleeding capabilities of both a tee line and a reservoir. The major downside to this method is the increased resistance and pressure drop. It's the best of both worlds, but also the worst of each.
Everything is open to debate/comment/suggestions. This is not the final order. Help me out grammar and content wise as this won't be easy. That being said: RES VS T-LINE!
Res vs. Tee line (Jan 20th 2005)
Res: 208 (47.60%)
T: 156 (35.70%)
Neither: 37 (8.47%)
Both: 36 (8.24%)
* Marks results affected by variables
Res pros:
Easy fill/bleed point
*Aesthetics
Most convenient
Res cons:
*Flow restriction
*Longer tubing runs
Can break
More expensive
Tee pros:
*Shorter tubing runs
*Less restriction
Nothing to break
Less expensive
Tee cons:
Harder to implement properly
Not as 'pretty'
Harder to bleed
Neither pros:
Less restriction of all options
No point of failure
Neither cons:
Hardest to fully bleed
Both pros:
'Easiest' to fill/bleed
Best of both worlds
Both cons:
Most restriction of all methods
Several points of failure
Worst of both worlds
Reservoirs:
Theoretically, the reservoir is the most convenient method to set up in terms of functionality. Filling is as easy as putting water in the opening and turning the pump on. Depending on reservoir design, restriction can be minimal or devastating. Some reservoir designs have one inlet and one outlet, some have multiple inlet/outlets and others have any variation imaginable.
Bay reservoirs typically have one/two inlets and one outlet. This allows a continuos loop with 'minimal' restriction. Some variations have two inlets and one outlet. This allows for multi-outlet water blocks to have both outlets lead directly to the reservoir without the need for a wyee-fitting, thus reducing the restriction on the loop by that much more (albeit a small amount but enough...).
Although the most convenient (arguably), weaknesses are apparent. Clear bay reservoirs are prone to cracking and glue failing, however not all users report this happening. A clear acrylic bay reservoir could last a lifetime or two weeks, or not even that long depending if the UPS guys think it's a football. Also, leaks can develop. Over time, the glue can give causing small leaks leading to a much larger dam breaking. Alcohol is also bad for acrylic resevoirs. It can causes them to crack, so when choosing additives count them out. Ls7Corvete proves this here: http://gallery.pimprig.com/data/1/5450100_0031-med.jpg
The largest problem with reservoirs in general is restriction caused by the barbs, most importantly on the outlet to the pump. This is a common problem with all barbs in a water-cooling loop. Several vendors have overcome this problem by enlarging the outlet, which almost completely solves this problem. On acrylic bay reservoirs, the threaded outlet can be enlarged with a file or tap and then the new barb can be PVC-glued into place. Some reservoir manufacturers have designed their reservoirs to latch directly onto the pump so no outlet barb is required completely eliminating restriction on the pump inlet. While this is the best performing variation of a reservoir, the only pre-manufactured one to my knowledge is for Eheim pumps however this should not stop you from fabricating one of your own.
A common myth with reservoirs is the 'pool' of water aids in cooling the water. The only time where this has been effectively implemented is with large basin reservoirs - 30-gallon drums. The water just doesn't sit long enough or have enough surface area in a simple resevoir to effectivly aid in cooling.
There is one last thing to mention with reservoirs and it is the most important factor in how a system with a reservoir performs: setup error. Depending on where and how the reservoir is implemented, a large temperature swing (for the better) can result in design change. It is not uncommon to see setups where a pump is pumping directly into the reservoir. This 'CAN' cause stress on the joints of acrylic bay reservoirs and cause them to fail faster (depending on the pump used) as well as lowering the total pressure in the loop. The ideal location of reservoir to pump is the reservoir feeding the inlet to the pump. Also, the location of a reservoir in a loop can lengthen the amount of tubing used, increasing the overall restriction of the system. Both topics will be discussed more later.
Tee lines:
Tee-lines, as the name suggests, are a simple Tee fitting. In it's basic form, it's two joining barbs in a line with a third sticking out of the top. Two ends connect in the loop while the other gets an extended length of tubing for filling the system.
There really isn't a whole lot that can be said about the t-line setup. Two ends connect the system flow while the third acts as a reservoir with the extended length of tubing holding the excess water. Location of the tee-line in the loop is probably the most argued aspect of the tee-line setup. Some argue that the very top of the loop is the best place for the tee-line while others swear right before the pump is the best. In all actuality, neither is correct - both aspects have different pros and cons. With the tee at the top of the loop bleeding will occur faster as air naturally rises. With the tee at the pump inlet, filling the system is made easier as water entering the tee automatically fills and primes the pump. The downside to this is it takes longer to bleed.
In all truth, the position of the tee in the loop makes absolutely no performance difference, as long as the 'reservoir line' is aiming to the top of the case. If the system is bled outside of the case, the tee can be moved to the top for faster bleeding. If in the case, the case can be turned to move the tee. Also, with the pump pushing water through the system, eventually all air will work itself out anyway. The only deciding factor on tee location should be preference, and what causes the least amount of extra tubing.
Tee lines should be sealed at the end. Period. It's just a safety thing. I wouldn't spend a grand on a computer and five hundred on water-cooling only to knock the case over and have water spill everywhere. Anything can be used to seal it that fits the tubing, just don't use batteries. Nothing more needs to be said here.
There are a couple basic principles to follow when installing a tee line setup. One is to avoid using the 90-degree bend for the normal system flow. This can be used in cases where space is a factor but it causes unwanted restriction. Also, avoid pumping into a tee where the 90 degree is used and the pump is pumping directly into the tee on the non-90 degree angle (pump ==^== 'reservoir') where the flow goes the direction of the arrow. This will reduce pressure in the loop, which is bad.
There have been some reports of a suction effect on the tee line. What this is, is when the pump is turned on, the water level will fall (sometimes rise) in the tee that isn't sealed. When the tee is sealed, this effect should be greatly eliminated altogether or reduced significantly. I have not seen anything about this affecting performance however I haven't followed that thread for more than a couple of days.
One final note, a tee line should add about as much restriction as a single inlet/outlet reservoir if all other variables are kept the same, including barb internal diameter. Like reducing restriction on a reservoir, any added resistance can be overcome by using a larger sized barb than what fits the tubing.
Neither:
Using neither tee line nor reservoir is an interesting concept. The basics behind this are with no fill point comes no added restriction. Setting up a system like this is easier than first thought, simply build the system, submerse and run the pump in a bucket, then when all the air is worked out of the system, slip the open-ended tubing over the pump inlet UNDER WATER. The only downside to this technique is that if any air is left in the system, there is no escape for it.
Both:
Using both a tee and a reservoir is more of a failsafe method than anything. The tee allows for point source filling for areas where filling from the reservoir can't reach and also the bleeding capabilities of both a tee line and a reservoir. The major downside to this method is the increased resistance and pressure drop. It's the best of both worlds, but also the worst of each.
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