Theory / Science behind temp per radiator?

[Andrew149]

i think you have good stuff there i agree with the modding now what ive read is go as big as you can on the rad and do a push and pull fan on it, now i really didnt see any air moving on you resevor and im guessing that is used as a rad too and its a pump also?

now also i liked how you got the bottom of the hard drive bays taken out what was involved there?

 

[Andrew149]

you know where i see your weak point in that setup is the tubing is so small my stuff is half inch i had the thermal take big water and it sucked but i made it work really well can you upgraded the hosing i bett that would improve your performance alot

 

[Bobnova]

There's a big ole kink in the hose as it exits the lower GPU. That's your #1 issue right now.

Or at least the #1 issue of that system.

 

[Grosjambon]

Go ahead and go buy an 45degree!!!!!

 

[BobbyBubblehead]

Is there even aluminum contact with that res/heatsink thing he is using? I thought the sinks/fins were on the outside only...?

its basically an alu finned tube section threaded into a steel cast base so it may take a long time but it will destroy itself.

the blocks are alu often with stainless barbs in them so there doomed to fail some day two. more likely to react on the blocks and leak on your expensive parts first.

the pump will fail from months to a couple of years... about three month if you place any more restriction in the loop. (its just a cheap aquarium pump)

on a note of restriction, the steel cast base is very restrictive bore and soon blocks with corrosive deposits. and the quick connect fittings also bring about restriction.

as for there coolant, ditch it and get some G11 and PT nuke in there. there formula fails to protect sufficiently. and breaks down into some lovely polymer strings... hmm slimey toxic liquid.

you need to clean the system out and replace the coolant mix every six months and give it an anual break down and inspection.

all the anti corrosives you can try will most likely partially work by coating everything with a protective layer which also serves to insulate the heat transfer the longer it runs without a full breakdown and clean.

ive got a resorator 1 v2 and resorator v2 - for thoes who havnt already had a good laugh

both of mine are showing signs of corrosion despite efforts to keep on top of things.

my mini review:-

way way way way over priced.

there rot boxes with no usefull long term parts.

seriously incapable of handling todays higher end CPU`s and GPU`s

did I mention there overpriced too?

Forgive them Lord for Zalman know not what they do.


anybody want a free one PM me, cover my post and packing and i`ll send it to you.
I was going to throw them in the skip as apposed to take them with me when I move anyhow there that good

EDIT: wait till conum see`s this, oh the controversy of days gone by... you were right Conum you swine

 

[Andrew149]

i have $200 in stuff coming for all the adapters and stuff goes i haft to wait an extra week for those parts =[

 

[QuietIce]

Is there any way of working out how much an extra single/double rad will reduce temps?

My temps are currently 10c higher than I would like, and deciding on adding a single or a double rad with low speed fans.

Considering an XSPC RX (120/24) rad to be used with S-Flex fans running at about 600rpm.

My philosophy, and I think most people's here, is use as much rad as you can for maximum reduction of noise and/or temps. Given an option between a single or double rad I would always take the double.

That said, have you considered modifying the Resorator? I know Zalman released a fan and shroud arrangement for them. I think their solution is a bit expensive for what it is but you could probably DIY something with some plastic sheet and a small room fan (or 140mm computer fan), which would also be pretty quiet. It's not much of an improvement but every little bit helps ...

 

[gcwebbyuk]

Thanks for the answers

I do realise that the reserator is not perfect, I did loads of research before buying it, 50% of the people were happy 50% said it is was poo - I had some spare cash and thought what the hell it's worth a go, it could be the perfect solution for my needs.

I spoke to QuietPC about the fluid in the kit before I used it, they also mentioned that it has been reported it has faults, and that I should keep a good eye on it. After a few months I will drain it all and add new stuff, but I wanted to test the original kit in case it was just one bad review, and everyone agreeing without trying themselves.

The fan shroud that Zalman makes is pretty poor, although some people have made their own out of card and used a 120mm fan on the top - these take away what I think is a stunning bit of kit by covering the tower in card - not something I would do.

There is another mod were the tube going back into the reserator is extended about 12" so that water goes back in nearer the top of the reserator, this will probably work quite well for me, as both the return tube and the out tube get hot when at load.

The tubes are quite small (8mm ID I think) but that can't be changed easily as all the fittings are the same.

BobbyBubblehead: One guy I have spoken to has been running a reserator for 4 years using the same fluid it came with plus distilled water, he hasn't changed it since he put it together - all still working perfectly! Not saying thats usual, but maybe he was just lucky.

QuietIce: Maybe I will get their 120.2 rad, but just use one fan for now, I have 6 of them knocking about, so I can add a 2nd if needed. I can then remove the front fan and have it firing upwards rather than in, this might help cool the FETs on the graphics card too.

Bobnova: did you mean on my setup there is a kink by the GPU? It may look it in the pics, but it isn't there in reality, maybe the flash on the camera makes it look that way.

Finally, my temps are very slowly dropping too, possibly the AS5 TIM "setting" - I may run toast to put the system under 25% load 24/7 for a while to help speed that up.

Will order the RX240 on Monday, just need to confirm the fittings to use for it to go with the Zalman tubing.

 

[Andrew149]

order from frozencpu and call the guy his name is matthew and he know's his stuff there shipping is fast and they will work with u

 

[gcwebbyuk]

Andrew, thanks for the info on frozencpu - trouble is I am from the UK.

I usually use scan.co.uk, plus I get free postage with them.

Just need to find out when I am working from home next week to arrange delivery so I am here to receive. Will document how much it changes my temps.

I did an OCCT GPU test today, that worked no problems:


Thats with the CPU idling though, not doing the Linpack load test as per the PSU test.

So really I just need something to keep the CPU temps down. I reckon I could get away with a single rad, as an H50 would be able to handle the CPU on it's own, but I am going to get the double rad and stick with one fan to start with.

In all honesty I may well end up with a full custom loop in the end, but I will still be glad I tried out the reserator. Plus I think it looks pretty damn amazing - like some industrial modern art!

 

[gcwebbyuk]

Ordered:
XSPC Dual Radiator Black - RX Series : RX240 with 3/8" Barbs

Is it possible to mount this at the bottom of my 690-II case, with the fan on top to draw air through the radiator, or do I need to have the fan/s mounted under the radiator? If so I will mount both GTs under the rad and have an S-Flex as my rear exhaust fan.

 

[thorilan]

as long as your rear exhaust fans are the stronger of the fans you should be fine.
just make sure you mount in the right direction because its a pain tearing a system down because you put the fans on backwards

 

[gcwebbyuk]

no worries with mounting the fans the right way, have lots of experience of fans - case had 11 in it at one point!

So would it be ok to have the fan on top pulling air through - case -> radiator -> fan or does it have to mounted case -> fan -> radiator?

 

[thorilan]

as long as the outflow from fans is larger than the inflow.
i personally make my exhaust go up and out the back and top and draw air from under cases . use gravity as a natural filter to augment the filters on the bottom intakes. try and work with all the basic principles and it can lead to a slight increase in performance weather its just better peak or quieter operation. i dont know about your particular case as im talking general layout theory here.

 

[Andrew149]

Ordered:
XSPC Dual Radiator Black - RX Series : RX240 with 3/8" Barbs

Is it possible to mount this at the bottom of my 690-II case, with the fan on top to draw air through the radiator, or do I need to have the fan/s mounted under the radiator? If so I will mount both GTs under the rad and have an S-Flex as my rear exhaust fan.

did you get half inch tubing ;D

 

[gcwebbyuk]

Will be using the standard Zalman tubing, I have about 2.5 foot left. It stretches over 3/8" barb so should be OK, plus I have two spare 3/8" spring clips from the CPU block to use as well

As for Rad positioning, not sure if you can see in the following pic...

...the case has a 120mm exhaust fan at the rear (currently have a Scythe GT there), a bay for a 120.2 rad at the top of the case, a 120/140mm intake fan at the front (currently have a Scythe GT there) and a 120.2 rad bay at the bottom of the case, which in the pic has two S-Flexs mounted. I am going to mount the rad in that bottom bay, but not sure wether to move the front GT on top of the rad, closest to the PSU, or if I will need to mount the fan underneath the rad. If so I can move the rear GT and front GT to be used for the rad, and then put an S-Flex at the rear for exhaust. I am hoping I can get away with a single GT on top of the rad as I want as little fans as possible and at the slowest speed.

At present I have the rear fan at 930rpm (6v) and the front at 540rpm (4v) which should equal roughly 17 CFM for the rear and 10 CFM for the front. If the fan is moved underneath sucking air through, I could probably run it a little faster, probably about 14CFM - specs from X-bit review:


The Zalman itself can easily cool the GPU and so all this extra rad is for is to help give the CPU some headroom. An H50 could do the trick, so am looking for close to that performance but with a dual rad. Am "guessing" the tube size is the same on the H50, if not smaller from the pics I have seen, and pump is of a similar performance.

I won't be doing any overclocking of the CPU or GPU either, will be saving OC'ing for my next NOISY project that I can turn on/off when I use it rather than this system which will mostly run 24/7.

 

[Andrew149]

i would go with a biger case so you can put the rads at the top of the case

 

[QuietIce]

At slower fans speeds the pull configuration tends to work a little better so if you're venting rad air into the case you'll want your fans on top of the rad ...

 

[gcwebbyuk]

Andrew149 - how do you mean bigger - the case is huuuge, as I explained, there is a rad bay at the top of the case.

QuietIce - so my preferred method of case -> rad -> intake fan - would be best?

 

[gcwebbyuk]

Image from Owenator's thread showing Swiftech 120.2 rad at the top of the case: