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2T's is for me... I always get the name as a user...Dual Core Joe said:Yes that is a nice wire job. There is only ONE T in Ducati.
1T for the bikes however...
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Will this setup cool my system dramatically?
- Thread starter Trike007
- Start date
1T for the bikes however...
Bad Maniac said:
Because Trike here is not trying to simply have his CPU "operate without errors." He is specifically trying to achieve a certain level of overclock that he is not currently capable of achieving on air.
Besides which, your recommendation would not make sense for almost anyone:
1) If you are running stock or mid o/c and don't care about your temps, then good air cooling is almost certainly the way to go. Adequate temps, cheaper, easier to maintain, safer to operate. A no brainer.
2) If you need water because you care about your temps or are running an o/c that air cannot handle, then having a single rad will not give you the temps you want/need. Also, it would be rather silly to spend $200+ on excellent water cooling parts, only to hobble the system by having too little radiator. At that point, all the costs sunk into a good waterblock, good pump etc were a waste, because your rad will be the limiting factor. You could have bought cheap parts at half the price and end up with the same temps.
3) The only audience I can see where it could possibly make sense is those who simply want the bling factor of water, but don't care about the temps. In that case, I might suggest the person buy one of those garbage flashy kits you can get for $50. Or, even cheaper, why not just keep running air, but buy some tubing and put in your case to make it look cool.
At the end of the day, getting a single rad on a nice setup like this is like buying a Ferrari and putting a 100hp engine in it. Sure it will get you to work and the grocery store, and would be "plenty" for most users, but what is the point? Just buy a honda civic
OP
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2006
- Thread Starter
- #44
Yeah i'm aiming for max overclock. So i'm toying with the idea of adding my X1950xt to the loop. That card runs hot as it is, but i don't want to risk a huge increase in temps if I add it to the loop. what do you guys think? I had one of those. "might as well" kind of moment.
Trike007 said:
According to the PSU calculator, your CPU and GPU should be consuming about 265W total. However, some of the energy from the GPU is going to be dissipated by the ram etc, which would not be cooled by water unless you use a full cover block, so it would be somewhat less than that. Note that the calculator assumes you are not o/cing your video card, so that would add more heat. Also remember the pump itself will dissipate some heat into the loop.
All together, I would guess that you would be pushing the limit with 2xBIX (assuming ~130W each), and if it were me, I would probably stick with cooling the CPU only for the time being.
QuietIce
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I agree - if you want to add the vid card you'll need 3xBIX (and the MCP655 will still handle it w/out a problem).
IMO - try out the 2xBIX for now, OC your CPU a little higher, and add the extra BIX and GPU block at a later date. That way you'll also know how much it's effecting your temps (and your OC) ...
IMO - try out the 2xBIX for now, OC your CPU a little higher, and add the extra BIX and GPU block at a later date. That way you'll also know how much it's effecting your temps (and your OC) ...
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OP
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- Dec 31, 2006
- Thread Starter
- #47
Sounds like a good plan to me. Maybe by then, I'll have the balls to cut holes on top of the case and mount a Bix 2 or a dual radiator on top of the case. Or just mount a 3rd bix in.
Thanks alot for the help guys.
I'll post pics once I get started.
Thanks alot for the help guys.
I'll post pics once I get started.
- Joined
- Jun 19, 2001
S-I-L-E-N-C-E... same cooling performance as mid range air, much less noise. Most vid cards have extremely noisy fans, so even with silent air on the CPU, water will still cool CPU and GPU as much as, if not more, than air, and at much less noise.wombat778 said:
Bad Maniac said:
But if you really wanted silence, then you would be better off getting more/bigger radiators, then using quieter fans to get the same temps. Or they could just go with high-end air and a quiet fan, get the same temps, and pay 1/4 the price of water. So, it still doesn't make much sense to go with a single rad even for the silence crowd.
Regarding putting both a CPU and a GPU on that poor little overloaded single rad, IMHO you will get REALLY lousy temps. Putting ~260W on something designed to cool ~130W is just not a good idea.
However, you may have a point with regard to watercooling a single GPU only. In that case, a single rad is probably enough for a single GPU, will be quieter than a stock cooler, and will be cooler than air. Still, I don't think that many people are willing to pay $200+ simply to quiet down their GPU a little. Certainly that is not the situation of the original poster in this thread.
On another note, I think its kinda funny that you imply that you don't care about temps or performance so long as "the damn thing runs", when the quote in your sig says "There are only two questions you need to ask. "How Cold?" and "How Fast?""
QuietIce
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In this case, no. But there are times, on older systems, where a single rad does quiet things down a lot - and reduces maintenance too ...wombat778 said:
QuietIce said:In this case, no. But there are times, on older systems, where a single rad does quiet things down a lot - and reduces maintenance too ...
Sure, I agree there are times. On most modern systems though, there will still be benefit in getting the bigger rad and putting some really quiet fans and undervolting them, or maybe even running completely passive.
QuietIce
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Lookin' good!
If you're still having problems w/foam try turning the pump down. If you're talking about air pockets sometimes punching and letting go of the tubing will "pump" the air out ...
If you're still having problems w/foam try turning the pump down. If you're talking about air pockets sometimes punching and letting go of the tubing will "pump" the air out ...
OP
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- Dec 31, 2006
- Thread Starter
- #54
Thanks! I ordered some Yateloons to see how they compare to the noctuas, I got the noctuas for cheap so it didn't really matter that I installed them.
I'll try to turn the pump down a bit tonight to reduce the foaming. Just looking at the tubing, I can tell there's is foam in the coolant. How bad does it hurt temps?
I'm still unsure how to get rid of all the air pockets that are stuck inside the radiator. When I tip the case back and forth, I can hear it sloshing around in both the radiators. Also keep in mind that the hoses are on there really tight, I had to use a blow dryer to soften up the hose to fit over the barbs. Needless to say, if I want to disconnect the hoses, they are going to be really tough and probably needs to be cut to get them off.
I tried sqeezeing/pinching the hoses to no avail. I can hear the pump make different noises as I tip the case around.
I'll try to turn the pump down a bit tonight to reduce the foaming. Just looking at the tubing, I can tell there's is foam in the coolant. How bad does it hurt temps?
I'm still unsure how to get rid of all the air pockets that are stuck inside the radiator. When I tip the case back and forth, I can hear it sloshing around in both the radiators. Also keep in mind that the hoses are on there really tight, I had to use a blow dryer to soften up the hose to fit over the barbs. Needless to say, if I want to disconnect the hoses, they are going to be really tough and probably needs to be cut to get them off.
I tried sqeezeing/pinching the hoses to no avail. I can hear the pump make different noises as I tip the case around.
QuietIce
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The foam is very bad for cooling - less mass and conductivity since air is a very good insulator.
Another way to reduce foam is to turn the system off for 10-15 min and let everything settle but try turning the pump down first. I can't see where you should have much of an air pocket in the rear rad but the front one, being on it's side, may create some problems. Try laying the case on it's open side so the barbs are up.
BTW - Personally, I wouldn't run the computer while bleeding the system ...
Another way to reduce foam is to turn the system off for 10-15 min and let everything settle but try turning the pump down first. I can't see where you should have much of an air pocket in the rear rad but the front one, being on it's side, may create some problems. Try laying the case on it's open side so the barbs are up.
BTW - Personally, I wouldn't run the computer while bleeding the system ...
OP
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- Dec 31, 2006
- Thread Starter
- #56
Yeah I had the pump connected to a separate power supply while I was filling/bleeding. Tried to bleed for a good 20 mins and just ran it the way it is.
You can't really see in the pic, but if you look at the hoses up close, they are actually alittle milky white. which I believe is foam. The only thing I can think of that is causing the foam is the pump. Maybe the waterblock could potentially create it when the incoming water from the pump hits it.
You can't really see in the pic, but if you look at the hoses up close, they are actually alittle milky white. which I believe is foam. The only thing I can think of that is causing the foam is the pump. Maybe the waterblock could potentially create it when the incoming water from the pump hits it.
