Woody! 2nd Try...

[Dukeman]

Back detail


PSU detail


Look Ma, I shorted the motherboard out

You can't tell from here but the system doesn't work because the motherboard standoffs aren't in the right spots and shorted it out when I fired it up. After pulling the mobo and testing it again, there were no problems but I do need to adjust where the standoffs are before I try to secure the mobo again.

Still, I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, and there is plenty of room for full sized ATX board and a water cooling system.

 

[Sam__]

that awesome dude...nice job

 

[JDXNC]

Back detail

You can't tell from here but the system doesn't work because the motherboard standoffs aren't in the right spots and shorted it out when I fired it up. After pulling the mobo and testing it again, there were no problems but I do need to adjust where the standoffs are before I try to secure the mobo again.

Still, I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, and there is plenty of room for full sized ATX board and a water cooling system.

There are carbon washers that you can use for this situation so that standoffs don't actually make contact with the board.

Edit... forgot the mention it looks great!

 

[Dukeman]

There are carbon washers that you can use for this situation so that standoffs don't actually make contact with the board.

Edit... forgot the mention it looks great!

Thanks for the info. I'll try re-seating the standoffs using this board as the template tonight and see how that works.

 

[Godfather1138]

That came out really good. It looks like you didn't have any problem getting rid of the streaks on the back either. Nice work.

 

[darkcow]

how i mounted my mobo is i just put the mobo on a peice of thin plywood. got a sharpie. drew a few dots, drilled, screwd in the standoffs, then i put a piece of electrical tape on top of each standoff, and then screwed the motherboard on top. one standoff was half a mm off but since there was tape on it i could care less.

but great work on the case. it looks great. my only criticisms are that the plywood you used looks abnormally thick, you probably could of used plywood half as thick and it still would of worked. but since your already pretty much done no point in changing it, only thing is that the case might be a little heavier. just a tip for next time.

Also you did cheat by using metal mounting systems . but i will give it to you, making my cd drive mounts and expansion card mounts was a PITA lol.


any ways, great work. hope you fix the shorting mobo.

 

[Dukeman]

Also you did cheat by using metal mounting systems . but i will give it to you, making my cd drive mounts and expansion card mounts was a PITA lol.

Yes I did cheat. Using the mouting brackets from a TT Armor I was able to just mount everthing to a single board.

For the mobo I plan to use nails to mark the locations where the holes should go then re-drill and mount the standoffs. For the wood I used 1/2 inch plywood. Next time I will use either 1/2 or 3/8 solid wood (maybe oak).

 

[darkcow]

on my case im used white oak as a frame, then i used 3/16th inch ply wood for the sides and the motherboard tray. it kept the weight of the case really light. less than 18 pounds. and its freaking huge. about 2 feet by 2 feet.


nail is a good idea, works just as well as a pen. plus it makes a good starting point make sure you also put some electrical tape on top of each standoff just in case. seems to work really well.

 

[voigts]

I had ordered a MB tray with back panel to use the back panel when I built mine. So all I had to do was to mark the holes on the MB tray onto my acrylic MB tray to mount mine. I used 3/16" acrylic for the MB tray as I was concerned about warpage with using wood for it, especially given the way that my tray has no top support and doesn't attach to the case except via the bottom and back panel. As long as the standoffs are properly placed they won't short anything out. I used metal standoffs with no problems. (http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=476159)

I used 1/2" knot-free white pine from Lowe's. I thought about plywood but didn't want the rough edges. Oak and the like are just so heavy that I ruled that out as well. The knot-free pine was only about $20 for a 1"x10"x8' board, and allowed me to route the edges for a cleaner look.

Your case is very original and looks good. It takes a lot of time to make something custom. It looks like you designed it more for air cooling than for water. If you go water with it, where would you put your rad, etc.?

 

[Dukeman]

Thanks for the comments.

I probably won't ever water cool in this case. If I decide I want to do it I will probably build a new case. Still it has lots of room for whatever I want to do.

I did get the motherboard mounted properly and it is up and running now. Here are a few more pics of it actually running.