UPS Sizing help

So I know almost nothing about power at all. My solution is to get bigger then I will ever need to be safe (yes I know I could just read up on it)

So I have a few systems in my house i need a UPS for.

Group 1

I7 980x @4.5, 3x GTX 580's, 3x Intel SSD, BR Drive, 120.18 of rads with 1800 rpm fans dual d5 pumps, Silverstone 1500 PSU 30" Dell 3007 Monitor, Bose Companion 5 USB Speakers, Cisco Voip Phone

Group 2

I7 980x @ 4.0 3x GTX 480's 3x Intel SSD, BR drive, 120.5 of rads with 1800 rpm fans, dual d5 pumps, Silverstone 1500 PSU, Asus 27" Monitor, Sony A/V Reciever, 2 Cable Modems, 1 Router, Cisco Voip Phone,

Group 3

I7 2600k @4.0, GT 450, 15 7200 rpm sata II drives, Corsair 1000HX PSU, HP M1522NF Laser Printer, 3x USB/Esata 4TB Drives, 1 Ipad (lol)

I was looking at these
http://www.apc.com/products/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=SMT1500&total_watts=50

Would that be too much or enough for each group?
Can I go smaller/Cheaper?
The first 2 groups are power beasts if the APC I linked is right for the first 2 groups what size would you suggest for the 3rd group?

Someone help me not spend $1800 on UPS's

1500va isn't going to cut it for the first two. At best, you're going to get a very short runtime, especially if the systems are loaded when the power goes out. I'd go for 2200s at least.

Don't plug a laser printer into them, either.

screw the UPS and get this

http://www.google.com/products/cata...AZl-TcTuMY_fsgbJlo33Bg&sqi=2&ved=0CDoQ8gIwAA#

Moffetts said:

1500va isn't going to cut it for the first two. At best, you're going to get a very short runtime, especially if the systems are loaded when the power goes out. I'd go for 2200s at least.

Don't plug a laser printer into them, either.

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I'm not so worried about run time I'm more concerned with clean consistent power. and for the ups to just shutdown the systems if power goes out.

GIXXERGUY6 said:

screw the UPS and get this

http://www.google.com/products/cata...AZl-TcTuMY_fsgbJlo33Bg&sqi=2&ved=0CDoQ8gIwAA#

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I live in a luxury high rise I don't think building managment would be ok with that on my balcony

thobel said:

I live in a luxury high rise I don't think building managment would be ok with that on my balcony

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The balcony is your space! They can't tell you what to do with it as long as you don't cause permanent damage to their structure!

GIXXERGUY6 said:

The balcony is your space! They can't tell you what to do with it as long as you don't cause permanent damage to their structure!

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yeah not what my lease says

So solar panels are out as well. :/ Especially if you don't face south.

I still think 2200 would be minimum as it should give you enough time to complete shut the computers down in the event of power failure. As other said, don't plug the printer (and monitor if both PCs can auto shut down)

4GHZ_or_bust said:

So solar panels are out as well. :/ Especially if you don't face south.

I still think 2200 would be minimum as it should give you enough time to complete shut the computers down in the event of power failure. As other said, don't plug the printer (and monitor if both PCs can auto shut down)

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yeah any suggestions on a good 2200? the APC ones I looked at are like $700+

Cyberpower is a little bit cheaper, but not by a lot.

Ok, not to get too pedantic but part of what you really need to do is understand quickly the types of UPSs. For more reading go here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uninterruptible_power_supply

But a quick breakdown is this: Offline/Standby are going to be the cheapest for the amount of power they can deliver since they are not 'cleaning' the power in any way. Keep in mind thou this might be just fine if your power is clean already and you have good power supplies in your computers (as well as good quality monitors/other equipment.) One other thing is that there is a very short delay for these units to start delivering power.

Line Interactive are UPSs that take the AC power from the wall and depending on how much fluctuation there is there it will take steps to correct it up to and including using the battery fully for power. I've also seen this called Automatic Voltage Regulation. It has become pretty common for mid range units, and even some cheaper units, and is overall a pretty good option for consumer level equipment that does not need five 9's.

Lastly there is Double Conversion that will always take the AC power, move it fully to DC, then back again. Using the battery as needed based on any shortcomings from the wall socket power. Really this level of UPS is typically overkill for consumer level/residential power. But if for whatever reason your power is really dirty these units will keep them safe.

Now finally UPC makers typically don't like to come out and say what tech they are using save for double conversion. This is mostly so that they can blur the line between the cheap and mid range units and sell what might seem like a really powerful unit on the cheap but it is an offline/standby model. Overall I think that getting a line interactive is always a good compromise between price and protection and would press any sales person to answer what type of unit it is before you buy.

ok so I picked up a Kill a Watt P3 tested pull while folding on cpu and all gpus cam in at a tad under 900watt's so I picked up three http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16842102090

All was well... Until I was benching and my overclocks blew pass 900 watts to almost 1000watts alarms starting screaming etc.. So my question is this does anyone know a UPS Thats over 1000 Watts closer to 1200 to be safe. that does NOT need a special wall connector?

If not does anyone know if its possable to "convert" the connector to a standard connector?

PS Am I the only guy with a 980x/Tri Sli who wan't a ups in the world?

What do you consider a "special wall connector?" Based on the reviews of that UPS, it sounds like you have a 110v/20a receptacle available, so you'll be fine if that's the case. You don't need to upgrade to 30a circuits until you start pushing towards 3000va units.

And no, no you're not the only person who has a setup like that with a UPS. The problem is that you're underestimating just how substantial a UPS you need to handle it. I have a 2200va unit, and with the 20a plug it can put out 1600 watts. It cost about $800, plus shipping. I'm confident that it would laugh at your setup. It's an APC SU2200NET, which is EOL but here's the newer equivalent:

http://www.amazon.com/APC-Smart-UPS-SMT2200-2200VA-System/dp/tech-data/B0036RDRXG/ref=de_a_smtd

Im sorry this is off topic , but have you already bought those bose speakers?

Moffetts said:

What do you consider a "special wall connector?" Based on the reviews of that UPS, it sounds like you have a 110v/20a receptacle available, so you'll be fine if that's the case. You don't need to upgrade to 30a circuits until you start pushing towards 3000va units.

And no, no you're not the only person who has a setup like that with a UPS. The problem is that you're underestimating just how substantial a UPS you need to handle it. I have a 2200va unit, and with the 20a plug it can put out 1600 watts. It cost about $800, plus shipping. I'm confident that it would laugh at your setup. It's an APC SU2200NET, which is EOL but here's the newer equivalent:

http://www.amazon.com/APC-Smart-UPS-SMT2200-2200VA-System/dp/tech-data/B0036RDRXG/ref=de_a_smtd

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Buy Special I mean 5-20P outlets. Everything I see above 900W seems to need a 5-20P. Can I use something like http://www.amazon.com/Furman-ADP-1520-Adapter-Cord-Socket/dp/B0002GXPF4/ref=pd_sim_e_1 with a larger UPS?

kommanderkodiak said:

Im sorry this is off topic , but have you already bought those bose speakers?

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I'm not sure if this is directed at me? I own Bose Companion 5 speakers But I have had for 2-3 years now.

I just picked up a new cyberpower myself. Since your psu's are 1500's you did just about right by going to the 1320watt one. The ups must always be more powerful than your psu or it can fail instantly. TG my system only pulls less than 250 watts (average 160) so my psu was about $100. I got the cp850avrlcd greenpower. And I would have bought a bigger one if I'd had more monies.
Personally, I wish they would simply sell the hardware and let the consumer buy his own sla's. Car batteries can be had for under $50 if you go cheap.

thobel said:

Buy Special I mean 5-20P outlets. Everything I see above 900W seems to need a 5-20P. Can I use something like http://www.amazon.com/Furman-ADP-1520-Adapter-Cord-Socket/dp/B0002GXPF4/ref=pd_sim_e_1 with a larger UPS?

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You only have so much capacity at the breaker and in the wires that feed the outlet. You can use adapters all you want, but you cannot overcome the fact that you're only being fed 15 amps, and that's if the circuit is ONLY being used by your PC. The UPS you linked to (and said you bought) is 5-20P, so I'm kind of confused.

Seriously, look at the reviews for the fire hazard cord you linked to. Even the perpetually brilliant Amazon reviewer thinktank sees that such a product is potentially deadly.

Moffetts said:

You only have so much capacity at the breaker and in the wires that feed the outlet. You can use adapters all you want, but you cannot overcome the fact that you're only being fed 15 amps, and that's if the circuit is ONLY being used by your PC. The UPS you linked to (and said you bought) is 5-20P, so I'm kind of confused.

Seriously, look at the reviews for the fire hazard cord you linked to. Even the perpetually brilliant Amazon reviewer thinktank sees that such a product is potentially deadly.

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The circut is a 20 Amp (That's what it says in the fuse box) but the wall plates are not 5-20P. The ones I picked up are http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16842102134 They are NOT 5-20P however when I'm playing Crysis at some points It goes over 1000 Watts and the UPS shuts down. The Circut can handle the load of my PC plus some connected threw say a power strip. I'm interested in the adapter because I'm renting and don't really want to pay someone to change a wall plate and then pay to change it again when I move.

PS The one I want to get to replace the 900 Watt one is http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...m1132X509988X4dd122873d11f4c0c9fd1960e0284d8a

Replacing a receptacle literally takes less than five minutes. I've seen electricians do it in less than 15 seconds without turning the power off. The only safe, completely universal solution is to replace the receptacle. Anything else is a fire hazard or will not work properly at the loads you're describing.

If it really is a 20 amp circuit, a replacement outlet should be less than $10 (or worst case $15) from home depot/lowes. Just be 100% sure though. If you have any doubts at all, calling an electrician is cheaper than a fire.