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600lbs Steel I-Beam Desk/Computer Build

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can you simply get copper blocks instead of nickel plated blocks ?
Blocks are already purchased and the GPU blocks are pre-done. They are all the EKWB blocks.

I can't find anything about the elements in the solder eating away the nickel.

 
yea probably will be ok, EK had some trouble a few years back with their plating reacting to dissimilar metals

Hopefully they have it sorted out , I will have to go back through the thread ? my question on this build is why ?

But it sure looks like you are having a lot of fun with this
 
From what I am reading, as long as nothing is listed above nickel in the reactivity table, it's fine. I see that tin is listed directly under nickel so technically I don't think it will react.

 
Here's the post from Jakob of Watercool discussing mixing metals (primarily Silver) in your loop. I'll add the link he included to the EK study. I really don't intend to scare you or distract from this truly awesome build, but with the amount of time and money invested I feel it would be prudent to at least mention it for you to ponder.

Original Link

This link is no longer working for me and the only site i can find the .PDF it is here. It's not great but it is readable.
 
It will actually make it worse. It can cause the copper to become nickle plated and strip the nickle from the GPU/CPU blocks.

See? This is why I come here. I probably got it confused with the anti microbial attributes-or just got it wrong for reasons I'm clueless about. But I learn stuff here. :thup:
 
man... i would need to build a better foundation for my house to support this thing... and im on a slap ... lol
 
Started the sweating process. I have all the top sections of the piping finished. Tomorrow I'll start the lower sections. I picked up a big bottle or Nitrogen and have been purging the lines with this throughout the sweating process. Man what a difference it makes inside the pipes!!! Now if I could only make it work for the outside too! Ha

I changed the fill/bleed part up a bit from how I originally thought I would do it. I added 4x 1/2" threaded Ts with square caps. I can fill from 2 and let the other two act as breathers. I like this way better since I think it will be easier to fill.

Later this evening I took the wood pieces to a friend's house who has all the wood working tools. He let me use his tools and I cut out 4x 1/4" thick sections of the Zebra wood and cut half circles that are the same diameter as the pipe. I will use these to support the pipes on the top section of the desk. We also smoothed out the edges of the pump/Res blocks so they looked nicer. Tomorrow I'll start the process of finishing those between sweating the pipes.

I picked up another 300mm pci-e riser cable to remote mount the 10gb Ethernet card. I'll need this for big data transfers between my storage system and this system. I am not wanting to add a bunch of drives to this rig.

More to come tomorrow and I'll get more pictures. Kind of slacked off a bit today. fdb3da4ba3bb3c222f64e92ccfa55013.jpg

 
In the process of sweating this thing together... I currently hate my life. Ha

 
Hey Guys!

Update time! :D

I'm happy to say that the system has been filled with water, drained, filled, and drained again! There were some leaks that needed to be fixed but I think we got all of them. With the 2 pumps per loop i'm seeing around 2.2-2.4GPM of flow-rate with the pumps at 60% (default pump speed with no PWM cable attached).

I added 8 air-bleed valves and those helped get it filled but we were having trouble getting it completely full. My buddy, who owns the shop I've been building this in, suggested we get a pump and a bucket and fill by forcing the water into each loop. This worked amazingly well. We can have both loops full and clear of air within 10 minutes.

Some fun stats for the loop:

Total length of copper pipe: 87ft
Total number of copper fittings: 120
Total capacity between both loops: 2.5 Gallons or 9.46L


I've attached an image that shows all the custom pieces of tubing that can come out of the desk. The big runs between the left and right side are permanent and can't be removed.

I've also been able to power up the computer components successfully. The system will actually run for almost 1.5 minutes without any cooling. This was with me shutting it down at 80*C.

I had to modify the PSU holder. I changed the way the piping routed around it and I couldn't get the PSU out any longer without removing all the water lines. I ended up cutting the mount in half and welding a 3/8" steel rod to each one. This allows me to slide the PSU up and down making it really easy to work on.

I also was able to add a 3rd PCI-E riser cable to the build for the 10G network card.

The desk is currently completely torn apart again. The next step is to clean all the copper pipes and then clear-coat them to keep them looking nice. We also need to clear-coat the frame. This will happen tomorrow after I drill 2 more drain lockout holes and a big hole for all the power cables to run under the desk. If that all goes well tomorrow, I should be able to move the desk to my house on Thursday. Then I can get going on the wiring and get it all put back together.

Now for pictures!

Josh 1.jpg 2.jpg 3.jpg 4.jpg 5.jpg 7.jpg 8.jpg
 
Hey Guys,
Today was a LONG day of cleaning up all the copper pipes. After all the handling and soldering they were looking pretty beat-up so it was time to clean them up before clear-coating them.

We used NeverDull which worked great! The copper really shines now.

We were going to start clear-coating the desk and pipes today but when we started laying down the clear it started spraying spider-webs and looked horrible. We stopped, cleaned it all up and then called a few people to see what was going on. Long story short, we needed to mix it with something else which isn't listed anywhere on the container. I am going to return that stuff and get something else. We did some tests with a Polyurethane that is more designed for wood but it seems to be sticking really well to the frame too. It also can go on a bit thicker than the other stuff we were using and gives the desk a really nice "wet" look. We will start this process tomorrow morning. If I can get it all done tomorrow it will be coming home with me Friday morning. YAY!

Josh 1.jpg 2.jpg 3.jpg 4.jpg
 
The second and third pics look like a plumber dropped some bad acid. The residue from the NevrDull may be part of the problem with coating the pipes. Use acetone or rubbing alcohol (90%) to clean the copper. :thup:
 
The second and third pics look like a plumber dropped some bad acid. The residue from the NevrDull may be part of the problem with coating the pipes. Use acetone or rubbing alcohol (90%) to clean the copper. :thup:
They were all cleaned with acetone. The issue was with the actual clear coat. Not the metal.

 
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