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Attempting to OC AMD Phenom II Black Edition X6 1100T (New to OC'ing Need Help)

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CPU-z "SPD" tab pic has blank values because there is no memory module in Slot#1. Please select Slot #2 any of the populated slots in the drop down box and replace that pic, please.

Ok I replaced it. Slot 1 and 2 were blank actually while slot 3 and 4 displayed a visual representation.
 
Take System Voltage Control off of Auto. Then post with a pic of that bios tab that shows the lines from System Voltage Control to the bottom of the page. There's important stuff there that we haven't seen yet. Note the scroll bar in the right hand margin.
 
Take System Voltage Control off of Auto. Then post with a pic of that bios tab that shows the lines from System Voltage Control to the bottom of the page. There's important stuff there that we haven't seen yet. Note the scroll bar in the right hand margin.

I still have it at this screen. I wasn't sure if I was suppose to save and then boot windows back up or not.
 

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Man, your "Normal" CPU voltage is 1.475! That's awfully high for a default core voltage. I hope you don't have to supplement that very much as we generally advise not exceeding 1.5 for the "vcore". That high default vcore may indicate you aren't going to get much overclock.

Increase your CPU NB VID Control to 1.225.

Now, let's start overclocking.

1. Increase the CPU Host Control frequency from 200 to 210 mhz in bios.
2. In Windows, open up HWMonitor and leave it open during and after the following stress test.
3. Open Prime95 and run a 20 minute "just stress testing" "blend" test. If it passes the test, i.e. no blue screen, spontaneous restart, lockup or core workers dropping out of the test then . . .
4. Increase the CPU Host Control Frequency from 210 to 220 mhz and repeat the steps above.
5. If you fail the test, cut the CPU Host Control Frequency back to 215 and retest. Post back with a pic of HWMonitor taken immediately after the last successful stress test so that we can see what the max temps and voltages were under load. If during any test the "core" temps exceed 60c or the CPU socket temp exceeds 70c, stop the test, though it may exhibit instability before you reach those temps. Make sure HWMonitor's "frame" is adjusted to see everything from the voltages at the top to the six core temp reading lines lower down. CPU socket temp may show as "CPU temp" or as one of the TMPINx lines. On most Gigabyte boards it's TMPIN2.
 
Ok I ran the Prime 95 test twice for 20 minutes each time with no hiccups.
Should I adjust the CPU Host Control Frequency from 220 to 230 mhz now to see if it passes?
Here are some screens from the last test.
 

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Yep, try 230 mhz. Ignore the TMPIN2 92c reading unless it shows up in the current "Value" column. Probably a bogus reading. Core temps look real good so far and so does TMPIN2, the socket temp. You've got room. Next time post the three pics from CPU-z along with HWMonitor. You really don't need to show us a pic of Prime95. We'll take your word for it that it passes or fails.
 
Passed another 20 minute P95 test. Shoot for 240 mhz?
 

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Yes, keep increasing the CPU Host Control frequency. We want to get to 250 mhz so that your RAM speed is back up to the full 1600 mhz. The Thuban core integrated memory controller (IMC) usually is good for 1600 mhz with no problem. By the way, CPU-z reports RAM frequency at half of what you would expect because it is reporting the RAM bus frequency rather than the effective DDR3 speed. So when CPU-z is reporting 800 mhz, for instance, it would be 1600 mhz in DDR3 equivalents. That confuses a lot of people. The first "D" in DDR stands for "Double" (Double Data Rate).

When you first fail the Prime95 stress test, add .025 to the vcore and retest. This will increase temps a bit. Pay close attention to the CPU socket temp (TMPIN2) as it's starting to climb. 65-70c would be the highest you want that one to go and 55-60c on the core temps. At least these typically are threshold numbers where we start to see heat-related instability. With top end air cooling you can usually get the 1100T to 4.0 ghz or greater on reasonable voltage. But I'm not sure your CPU cooler qualifies for top end. An example of top end air is the Noctua DH14.

By the way, please take some time to create a "Sig" so that we have a thumbnail sketch of your system details, one that travels with every post you make. Go to Quick Links at the top of the page and then Edit Signature. Since you have a gold star under your name now you have access to this feature. Include info about your CPU, cooler, motherboard, RAM, PSU, video card, OS and case make and model.
 
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BeKure, you are in good hands with trents, many moons ago he helped me OC my first processor. He also has patience I've seen from few people on forums.
 
Increase your DDR voltage from 1.5 to 1.55 please. In HWMonitor it's only showing 1.504.
 
If you remember trents :) That little 955 and I have come a long way. Just a precautionalry note BeKure if you look at the screen shot of my max clock on the 955 do not attempt to run that type of voltage on your chip. That was done on subambient temperatures.
 
I'm thinking a VRM supplemental fan is in BeKure's future, Drake.
True be told it seems like any time you want to overclock any of these AMD chip's from Phenoms to Fx's putting a fan on the VRM heatsink helps dramatically. So yes I agree.
 
I'm thinking a VRM supplemental fan is in BeKure's future, Drake.

Trents, how would you add a fan to cool the VRM's on the Gigabyte board? I really don't see a way to do it that would look very good! I have the same board. A guy swapped me my 6300 for his 8320 straight up. I thought about getting a Noctua topdown cpu cooler to add some incidental cooling to the mobo. Not trying to thread crap.
 
I haven't seen a pic of the board but if there is a heat sink on the VRM area the easiest way is to adhere a 50mm fan by the hub with some double-sided adhesive material. First take the label off the fan hub, however, as it will let go with time.
 

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The other thing that really helps if there is a hole in the motherboard tray beneath the socket area is to cut a hole in the right side case panel and attach a side fan to blow cool air onto the backside of the socket area. If there is clearance enough, you can avoid cutting a whole in the panel and adhere a small spot fan to the underside of the board by putting double-sided adhesive material on the corners of the fan or the hub.
 
I haven't seen a pic of the board but if there is a heat sink on the VRM area the easiest way is to adhere a 50mm fan by the hub with some double-sided adhesive material. First take the label off the fan hub, however, as it will let go with time.

Thanks Trents. Looks good on your ASUS heatinks. I have a couple ASUS boards with a 960T and an 965BE which I am going to do that today.
 
The other thing that really helps if there is a hole in the motherboard tray beneath the socket area is to cut a hole in the right side case panel and attach a side fan to blow cool air onto the backside of the socket area. If there is clearance enough, you can avoid cutting a whole in the panel and adhere a small spot fan to the underside of the board by putting double-sided adhesive material on the corners of the fan or the hub.

I think I have the clearance with my ARC MIDI R2. I have a crap ton of small fans I collected over the years. Even in that small space the fan is effective cooling the cpu socket?
 
Even in the small space it should help some. Better would be to cut a hole in the side of the panel and install a larger fan to either blow on the area or exhaust.
 

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