• Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!

Attempting to OC AMD Phenom II Black Edition X6 1100T (New to OC'ing Need Help)

Overclockers is supported by our readers. When you click a link to make a purchase, we may earn a commission. Learn More.
Cutting a hole in the sheet is not as easy as it first seems. I took an old 120mm fan and cut the center out to use it as a tracing pattern. The hard part is keeping the fan frame from slipping around as you trace along the inside. Maybe stick it temporarily to the panel with some double-sided adhesive. Drill the screw holes first. That would be some pointers I would give after having ruined a couple of side panels in early one attempts at this. Get the finest tooth, skinniest sabre saw blades you can find. The turning radius is a fight. The other hard part is getting the screw holes marked on the panel. Take a small drill bit insert it through the corner holes and use it like a center punch.
 
I think I screwed myself. I tried bumping the CPU Host to 230 MHz and then the voltage to 1.55 and now my PC won't even boot up. I hear 2 long beeps from the mobo speaker but it goes no further than that.

I also noticed this screen pop up a couple of times during reboots when trying to test. When setting the CPU to 230 MHz it failed in the Prime 95 test. So I backed it down to 225 and it passed. So I decided to up the voltage to 1.55 oppose to 1.5 to test it on 230 MHz again and now it won't boot at all.
Two long beeps, then a pause, and then two long beeps and then it repeats.
Did I fry my mobo or destroy my CPU?
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    522.1 KB · Views: 59
You are fine. Your overclock just failed. You probably just need to reset your bios by using the clear cmos jumpers on the motherboard. Or you could pull the cmos battery and unplug it from power and hit the power button to drain the remaining voltage. Then plug it back in, replace the battery and then boot up.
 
You are fine. Your overclock just failed. You probably just need to reset your bios by using the clear cmos jumpers on the motherboard. Or you could pull the cmos battery and unplug it from power and hit the power button to drain the remaining voltage. Then plug it back in, replace the battery and then boot up.

None of the above worked. Thank you for you effort.
I did in fact unplug the power supply before I opened up the case and pulled the mobo battery and unplugged the mobo.
Should I have left the power supply plugged into the wall?
 
Clearing the CMOS requires zero power from the power supply and in fact is said to have no power applied to the mobo from the power supply when clearing the CMOS.
RGone...
 
Clearing the CMOS requires zero power from the power supply and in fact is said to have no power applied to the mobo from the power supply when clearing the CMOS.
RGone...

Good. I didn't have the power supply plugged in when I pulled the battery and unplugged the mobo. I also hit the power button on the PC case while the MoBo battery was out and it still didn't work.
I wonder if I unplugged the wrong wire, thinking it was the power supply cable which powers the mobo. I will check the gigabyte forums to try to figure out which cable is the right one to pull as there is no CMOS button in sight on this mobo.
 
It's best to unplug the PSU from the wall before clearing the CMOS. The other mistake people make is to restore the power before the CMOS jumper is replaced to default position (or the battery put back in). How long did you leave the battery out? Can take a bit to clear the CMOS as there are capacitors that may need to drain before all juice is gone. Take it out again and wait a few minutes before you put it back in. Actually, there should be a three pin set with jumper somewhere near the battery to make this easy.
 
Removing the battery WILL clear the CMOS. If the power supply was unplugged from the wall then that is excellent and should be fine. It maybe that you have corrupted the bios chip trying to overclock too far. Happens.

I have also corrected such as you see by removing all the ram and video card and CMOS battery and leaving it to sit for a half day with NO power to the board and all has come back to life if the bios chip itself is not corrupted.

Then put ram in and video card in and then put CMOS battery back in its' holder and then REapply power to the power supply and then try to boot to bios. Often this works. Not if Bios chip is corrupted though.
RGone...
 
It's best to unplug the PSU from the wall before clearing the CMOS. The other mistake people make is to restore the power before the CMOS jumper is replaced to default position (or the battery put back in). How long did you leave the battery out? Can take a bit to clear the CMOS as there are capacitors that may need to drain before all juice is gone. Take it out again and wait a few minutes before you put it back in. Actually, there should be a three pin set with jumper somewhere near the battery to make this easy.

After pulling the battery I kept it out maybe 20 seconds or so. I will pull it out and keep it out for a bit next time.
How do I go about activating this 3 pin jumper as there is no actually button in sight.
 
Removing the battery WILL clear the CMOS. If the power supply was unplugged from the wall then that is excellent and should be fine. It maybe that you have corrupted the bios chip trying to overclock too far. Happens.

I have also corrected such as you see by removing all the ram and video card and CMOS battery and leaving it to sit for a half day with NO power to the board and all has come back to life if the bios chip itself is not corrupted.

Then put ram in and video card in and then put CMOS battery back in its' holder and then REapply power to the power supply and then try to boot to bios. Often this works. Not if Bios chip is corrupted though.
RGone...

I will try pulling the battery again and then leaving it out for 15-20 minutes or so and then try putting it back it. If that doesn't work then I will pull the ram, GPU, and CMOS and let it sit out in the open for a number of hours and then see what happens.
By the way, if the bios chip is in fact corrupt then will I need to replace the whole mobo?
 
I would look through your Gigabyte manual. It has been a while since I had to do mine. Or if you have access to the internet on another computer head on over to gigabyte.com and download your motherboards manual. IIRC the jumper is right near the battery.
 
I also want to take the time to thank everyone for all the effort that has been put in to helping me figure this out. This has been a very confusing/frustrating roller coaster thus far.

trents you are the man! Thank you for breaking it down in laments terms for me to understand as I would have never gotten this far without your help.
I'm learning about how much patience this kind of work takes. This is my first build. I put it together 2 years ago and it took me 15 painstaking hours as I had no idea what I was really doing. I had to figure mostly everything out on my own. Then 12 hours into my build, I stumbled across a YouTube video from NewEgg titled "How to Build a Computer". :-/
After watching the video a couple of times it took me only 3 more hours to complete the build.
I felt like a idiot because I could have saved a lot of time buy searching YouTube first.
I have a friend who has put together a number of PC's over the years and he told me not to feel so bad about my first building experience because he first build (which was back in 1994) took him 2 days to complete so 15 hours wasn't bad as far as he was concerned.

Anyhow, I just wanted to express my appreciation for everyone being more than willing to share their knowledge regarding this issue.
I really hope to not be disappointed with my CPU's performance when it's all said and done. I hope that it turns out to be worth the actually trouble.
 
You are more than welcome. You follow directions very well and have been patient with the process.

Some motherboards have an actual button to push to clear the CMOS. Most have a three pin jumper with the jumper bridging either pins 1 and 2 or 2 and 3. Usually, the default running position is for the jumper to bridge pins 1 and 2 and the clear is pins 2 and 3. Some boards only have two pins with no jumper provided. To clear the CMOS you bridge the two pins with a screwdriver tip or some metal object. Consult your owner's manual for the specific method used by your board.

I'm afraid you were not blessed with a good piece of silicone in the 1100T you have. The high default vcore would indicate that. So that would limit your overclock. A lot of the 1100T CPUs will run 1.325 vcore for default or somewhere thereabouts at stock frequencies.
 
Last edited:
You are more than welcome. You follow directions very well and have been patient with the process.

Some motherboards have an actual button to push to clear the CMOS. Most have a three pin jumper with the jumper bridging either pins 1 and 2 or 2 and 3. Usually, the default running position is for the jumper to bridge pins 1 and 2 and the clear is pins 2 and 3. Some boards only have two pins with no jumper provided. To clear the CMOS you bridge the two pins with a screwdriver tip or some metal object. Consult your owner's manual for the specific method used by your board.

I'm afraid you were not blessed with a good piece of silicone in the 1100T you have. The high default vcore would indicate that. So that would limit your overclock. A lot of the 1100T CPUs will run 1.325 vcore for default or somewhere thereabouts.


He could easily sell the 1100T on eBay and pick up a 6300, 6350 or 8320 and have some money left over. The 8320 will run fine on his board at stock or up to 4 GHz. At least I have no problems.
 
A 1100t is still a really good cpu, you would need to run a 6300 about 400 mhz higher in order to equate the performance of it.
 
A 1100t is still a really good cpu, you would need to run a 6300 about 400 mhz higher in order to equate the performance of it.

That may be true. Most 6300's overclock a great deal. I have had plenty of, and still own and use Thubans, Deneb's, Zosma's and I think in real world usage that the the latest FX processors are just much better performers all around.
 
As always, it depends on the task you are using them for. The 1100T would outperform the FX-6300 in tasks that are really CPU intensive and well multi-threaded since it has six true physical cores, each with access to it's own L3 cache bank. Something like AV rendering with Handbrake, for example. In games and other stuff that likes great per core performance it would probably be different.
 
Back