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Best way to remove ram heatsinks

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Can you look between the spreaders and the RAM to tell if there's tape?

Just looked, there seems to be some sort of adhesive tape.



Also, major fail moment. The 16fd5's are double sided, just don't have the clips. I am really stupid.:bang head I guess i thought they were single sided, but when i went to look for tape, i saw they are in fact double sided. Wow i feel stupid.:-/
 
I think you could remove the spreaders then, but like I said, mine don't show the ICs on the chips. So, it might be a waste of time.

Any 16FDx set should have D9 ICs, especially if the default voltage is high, like DDR2-800/1066 @ 2.2v. You can check this list out for D9 candidates: http://ramlist.i4memory.com/ddr2/
 
I think you could remove the spreaders then, but like I said, mine don't show the ICs on the chips. So, it might be a waste of time.

Any 16FDx set should have D9 ICs, especially if the default voltage is high, like DDR2-800/1066 @ 2.2v. You can check this list out for D9 candidates: http://ramlist.i4memory.com/ddr2/

Yep, i've been using ramlist for a long time now to help me with my d9 hunting, ddr2 and ddr3.;)

Where did you pick up those sticks that are pictured, Rabid?

Well the ones pictured is just a stock pic from Newegg. But, the kit i have that looks like them (the 16fd5) i got on the EVGA forums. My 16fd3 kit i got on XS.
 
Well i have tried removing ram heatsinks once before, and i ripped off a few chips. I was just slowly prying it off, granted with a screwdriver, lol. I will remember that guitar pick tip though, that is really smart, using something that would break before the chips, haha.

As for removal, would pouring acetone on the ram sticks be bad?:D (in my mind it sounds like a bad idea, but i am actually asking it because i don't know what'll happen. Would it eat the plastic of the ram chips?)

How about isopropyl alcohol?

Not sure about isoprophyl, but definately do not use acetone, or laquer thinner(as it contains acetone). Acetone will destroy the coating on the pcb in a prolonged exposure, and potentialy damage the fiberglass itself.
 
Ya, so maybe i just didn't test them (the 16fd5's) and thought i did (and thought they were bad)...LOL:rofl:

Did some testing with them today, and well, the results speak for themselves.:D:D:D

With 2.4v:rock:(might actually be able to do lower too, just a quick test):

16fd5700mhz32m.jpg

That is better than my 16fd3's (the ones with the clip on the hs). The 16fd5's do 700 with 2.4v, the 16fd3's do 640 with 2.4v and 672 with 2.56v. But, now i am thinking my 16fd3's are d9gkx, and these 16fd5's are d9gmh. I think that because i just got a Buffalo Firestix kit that is d9gkx, and it seems to clock similar to the 16fd3's with cas5. I haven't done a ton of cas4 testing on these kits, but i will.:D (quick c4 on the 16fd3's gave ~550 with 2.5v, but they might do more at those volts, i just used what was set already).

Do d9gkx clock better at c4 than d9gmh, and gmh better at c5 than gkx? iirc that is usually true, but i can't exactly remember.
 
Didn't read the whole thread, but i'd think if you get the heatsink pretty hot, you can just carefully peel it off. Mine have clips that slide off, and then the heatsink just slips off.
 
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