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QuietIce said:
Go for it ...! :)
Click to expand...

Was beginning to wonder if it'd ever get stable. Found out this board under volts what it supposedly puts out. When set to 1.40v it actually (according to CPU-Z) puts out 1.38ish so after bumping the voltage on NB slightly and the vcore very lightly as well it seemed to push through.

Load temps seem to be staying between 50-51C which is better than I'd expected, I could work with that and video games.
 
That under-volting thing is why I always add 0.05v to my RAM voltage. To date the only way I've found to determine actual vDIMM delivered is with a multi-meter. No programs will do it and even BIOS doesn't - all it will show is the setting, if that ... :-/
 
Heading up on 4.0Ghz... did a 1M super pi calc and it's passed in 17 seconds. Have small ftts and temp monitors up. slight vcore bump, ht vid bump, etc... I'll post results in ten.

Nope.... more slight bumps.. if it doesn't work I'm gonna decrease down and try for rock solid 3.9.
 
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Ronbert said:
Was beginning to wonder if it'd ever get stable. Found out this board under volts what it supposedly puts out. When set to 1.40v it actually (according to CPU-Z) puts out 1.38ish so after bumping the voltage on NB slightly and the vcore very lightly as well it seemed to push through.

Load temps seem to be staying between 50-51C which is better than I'd expected, I could work with that and video games.
Click to expand...

Thats why I posted what I did earlier on the voltage Ron :) . Also once you hit enough voltage to make 3.9 then you will have enough to make 4.0 you shouldn't see anymore heat at 4.0 than you do at 3.9.
 
Still havn't gotten a fully stable run out of 3.9 the ten minute test went nice but 22 minutes in it went out. I was so tired though I layed down for bed, I'll work with it tonight I have the next couple days off and it's going to rain Labor day so no plans for a BBQ.

I'll get back in touch tonight maybe you guys can help me out a bit. I'm re reading through Dolk's guide and doing general research on HT Link and such to get a feel of what the certain options will do to the clock speed. AMD may be harder to over clock but I still find my purchase very worth it.

Well gentlemen I'm off to Red Lobster it's my grandmothers b-day and that's my present to her :D
 
You will get there Ron, 3.8 is where it starts taking some playing with to go any higher. Once I got to that point it took a couple days to get it to 4ghz.
 
Ronbert said:
Still havn't gotten a fully stable run out of 3.9 the ten minute test went nice but 22 minutes in it went out. I was so tired though I layed down for bed, I'll work with it tonight I have the next couple days off and it's going to rain Labor day so no plans for a BBQ.

I'll get back in touch tonight maybe you guys can help me out a bit. I'm re reading through Dolk's guide and doing general research on HT Link and such to get a feel of what the certain options will do to the clock speed. AMD may be harder to over clock but I still find my purchase very worth it.

Well gentlemen I'm off to Red Lobster it's my grandmothers b-day and that's my present to her :D
Click to expand...
What do you mean it went out? Did it shutdown and you had to press the PC case start button to start it back up?
 
Alright well I'm back to working on cpu ocing today just finally got out of bed to enjoy my day off. I think for temps I'm gonna try to sell this H50 back to bb for a refund then reinstall my stock HSF and buy a cpu only WC from frozen cpu. Just a thought right now, thought about modding the H50 rad it's self but every post I find around the net has someone saying it's just a really iffy idea.

Maybe I'll just take a picture of my computer then photoshop a black of ice on the cpu, keep that picture up while I'm OCing so the cpu thinks it's frozen... another words I'd be shopping at frozen cpu >.>;

For a cpu only I don't need a res. right? Just like Corsair pump, proc, rad, pump?
 
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What do you think about lapping the cpu and H50? According to Corsair them selves the H50's warranty will NOT be voided by lapping but of course the CPU's will.

Also someone on youtube even has an indepth tutorial on how to mod the H50, was very well done I'm surprised by the amount of people taking the same mod path.
 
Actually you make a good point the H50 it's self only mounts tight once you start to screw in the bracket so it makes sense that filing down it's surface would cause some compression to be lost.

Reasoning for brining it up was someone mentioning in a different from via Google that you can experience (keyword) anywhere from 2C-5C less in temps, same thread mentioned the method of pea sized tim and allowing the cpu to press down and spread the tim which I personally don't believe in I'd think allowing the HSF to do the work would cause less tim to cover the cpu leading to less significant heat transfer.

YOUTUBE VIDEO believe it's about 5 parts long it's pretty dang cool

POST claiming 5C less on a i7 920@4Ghz

POST Directly related to 955BE and H50 lapped. Post number 10498 by Ceadderman
 
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Ronbert said:
Actually you make a good point the H50 it's self only mounts tight once you start to screw in the bracket so it makes sense that filing down it's surface would cause some compression to be lost.

Reasoning for brining it up was someone mentioning in a different from via Google that you can experience (keyword) anywhere from 2C-5C less in temps, same thread mentioned the method of pea sized tim and allowing the cpu to press down and spread the tim which I personally don't believe in I'd think allowing the HSF to do the work would cause less tim to cover the cpu leading to less significant heat transfer.
Click to expand...
It wasn't the thickness I was talking about. Modern water blocks often have a slight bulge in the center of the sink (convex base) and it's on purpose. When you bolt down the block the base is thin enough that it gives slightly so once it's in place the base is actually flat. Having the bulge puts a little more pressure on the center of the CPU for better heat transfer in that area, which is where every CPU is hottest. It's worked very good on the custom loop blocks and, if the H50 mount is strong enough and the base thin enough, it should work well for it, too.

But all CPU blocks that I'm familiar with have metal plates on both sides of the socket, I understand the H50 back-plate is plastic. I wasn't sure if that mounting method could deliver the pressure needed to make the convex base work. If it is strong enough then taking out the convex shape would not be a good thing. If it isn't strong enough or it's not designed to flex then you need a flat base.
YOUTUBE VIDEO believe it's about 5 parts long it's pretty dang cool
Click to expand...
Thanks - I'll check it out ...
 
Hmm how could I figure it out? I tested for flatness using the back side of the razor blade, I have no fresh ones on hand so using the blade side would've resulted in very twisted spaces. The flatness for both was pretty dang good, I see lot's of good results with lapping just not sure how it would pay off as I understand it lapping can lead to a bit of a different experience for everyone.
 
If they look flat with a razor blade then I'd leave it. Of course, I've got some odd ideas about heatsinks, though - I still tin them. ;) Maybe that's why I think lapping is often a waste. I mean, if it's visibly warped or something that's one thing but this "mirror finish" thing just doesn't wash with me.


BTW - I didn't realize the Corsair vid was a Bling mod :( and not a good idea, IMO. Why unseal a sealed unit like that? I always thought that was part of the point of going with an H50 instead of a custom loop ... :shrug:
 
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