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QI, the H50 has a set of stand offs that go between the motherboard and the retaining ring that prevent the retaining ring from putting much if any real pressure on the water block/pump. Mine would actually spin in the bracket fairly easy so I ended up not fully twisting the waterblock in so some little high points on it would grab against the retaining ring to help put more pressure against the cpu.

As for the surface of the water block mine was flat but was course on the finish surface, I cannot remember where it was but I seen where they where claiming that it allowed it to work like a pleated filter giving it more surface area and that is why they used such a thick TIM to fill in the area.
 
See I had a feeling that modding the H50 seemed somewhat iffy because it wasn't really meant to be taken apart the whole point was an easy to install all in one kit but when I saw a fair number of people modding it to be fitted with larger rads for better heat dissipation I thought "Well there must be something to this".

Think I'm going back to the FrozenCPU drawing board. Which again reminds me for a cpu only custom loop all I need is Pump and Rad right? Loop order would be pump, rad, proc, pump.
 
See I had a feeling that modding the H50 seemed somewhat iffy because it wasn't really meant to be taken apart the whole point was an easy to install all in one kit but when I saw a fair number of people modding it to be fitted with larger rads for better heat dissipation I thought "Well there must be something to this".

Think I'm going back to the FrozenCPU drawing board. Which again reminds me for a cpu only custom loop all I need is Pump and Rad right? Loop order would be pump, rad, proc, pump.
If you're building from scratch you'd need everything (block, pump, rad, and res/T-line) but if you don't mind performance modding your H50 into a custom loop all you need is a rad and a T-line or MicroRes. The CPU unit of the H50 is the CPU block and pump in one unit.

:thup:
 
If you're building from scratch you'd need everything (block, pump, rad, and res/T-line) but if you don't mind performance modding your H50 into a custom loop all you need is a rad and a T-line or MicroRes. The CPU unit of the H50 is the CPU block and pump in one unit.

Part that worries me is pulling apart the H50 to incorporate a new design. Haha forgot the cpu block and along with pump that's already a hefty order. I had assumed since the corsair was set like that I could do the same I hadn't realized the differences. <- WC NOOB!

I'm gonna try to find out what type of typing size (and barbs??) I'll need for the H50. Strike that, THIS

I'm gonna look at rads and MicroRes maybe if you see something nice you might toss the link my way ;)
 
This one's nice - and it's expensive - but if you want more performance with only a single rad then that's the way to go. Otherwise, take a look at the various 2x120mm rads on that site. The Swiftech are the cheapest and work very well with low- to mid-speed fans.

If Bling isn't important then a heater core is the best there is. Doesn't look purdy, and it can be a problem to mount if you don't DIY, but it'll out-perform anything else out there ... :D
 
Well looks are somewhat important in the sense that I don't want something be unsightly. As for colors and lights? Not at all I just got done with lights on my last one this build I opted for no lights so I could actually go to sleep with the computer on and not wake up every hour or so with a blinding blue led light flooding my room >.>;

That thread I linked just by adding a res and new tubing he managed to go from 50C load temps stock PP config to 36C PP config.

Only issue I'm having is finding 6mm ID - 8mm OD tubing... I've find 1/4" ID - 3/8" OD tubing but 3/8 breaks down to 9 and one half CM.
 
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Ouch pretty pricey + 100ft holy cow I don't need nearly that much

notice in that link I posted he says 6mm - 8mm ID-OD yet the MCRes 2 Swiftech is 1/2" ID - 3/8" OD... contradictions much?...

I know that 1/4 is 6mm but 3/8 isn't 8mm it's 9.5mm don't know how big of a difference it'll make.
 
Same here I think the guy got a few measurements wrong is all because I've been searching pretty good can't find the exact measurements. I don't think 1/4" tubing will fit over a 1/2" barb on the McRes2 unless I clamp her real tight and I don't know what the repercussions of that are.
 
Either way I'm not sure it would be worth the price even if you did decide to go that route? maybe, maybe not. I am wanting to go WC myself but figure I will wait until I can just get a setup for a single loop.
 
Well the price actually come out fairly cheap with the McRes2 I'm lookin' at about $60bucks including S+H so it all comes down to dedication.

QI you wanna help me out here I'm so lost, is there alternate barbs I can get for that Swiftech pump to convert the barbs to 1/4"?
 
I guess if you wanted to go that route you could always use what you need and keep some extra back for future and ebay the rest of it.
 
?????????????


6mm = 0.23622" instead of 0.25" (1/4")
OD (outside diameter) really doesn't matter much unless you're using compression fittings and they come in 1/4x3/8" sizes.

If you want to get really crazy with tubing and tubing sizes take a look here.

Warning! If you're a DIY'er this site may be addictive!!!
http://www.mcmaster.com/
 
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